Simple Metal Freezes about five to ten layers in

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Simple Metal Freezes about five to ten layers in

Postby Jack Crow » 2018-Aug-Wed-19-Aug

Hi all,
Have a simple metal with some minor updates. New board, new hot end, but in essence stock.

Since coming to Kansas it has developed a new problem.

Starts and runs normally and after about five or six layers, it simply stops.
It keeps regulating the heated bed properly.
Im assuming the hot end is doing the same.
Motion stops.

The section on Cura that give the status report starts off with this...
< Bed x: 20.00 y: 142.00 z: 0.13
< Bed x: 20.00 y: 10.00 z: 0.64
< Bed x: 142.00 y: 10.00 z: 0.62
< echo:endstops hit: Z:0.62

when the print starts it shows the above, and when it stops nothing new is added.
If the USB cable is un plugged during a run, I get a message about that. (don't use the memory wafer feature)

USB cable seems good, as do the sockets.
Fairly sure about the power supply.
Suppose I can hang a scope on it and have it record drop outs.

Built a 'meter' house that watches unit voltage and current draw, those readings are normal.
12 volts up to 7 amps or so when everything is running.
Been that way since I put the meter on.
Don't think that is the issue.

Did some reading here.
Seems thermister issues can do this.
Can hang a scope probe on them as well if I have to.

In other reading it could be a firmware bug.
With PBHQ off line, I have no idea where to get that from or how to re flash the printer. (More high voltage analog than a digital dude.)

Gave the flexible wires a tug,
Had to replace some of those in the past when they fatigue out.
The unit stayed working.

Open to ideas and things to test.

Thanks in advance.
Jack Crow now in Kansas.
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Jack Crow
Waiting for printbed temp...
 
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Simple Metal Freezes about five to ten layers in

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Re: Simple Metal Freezes about five to ten layers in

Postby RetireeJay » 2018-Aug-Wed-21-Aug

Jack,
I'd highly recommend using Repetier for diagnosing this. It will show you all the traffic going back and forth between the computer and the printer (even keeping a log), and it also shows you the current X, Y, Z coordinates, bed temperature, hot end temperature, and fan percentage. And best of all, you can have a graph of the bed & hot end temperatures vs time, so if anything flaky is going on, you have a pretty good chance of seeing it on at least one of those "channels".

Repetier does ask for a donation, but you can download without donating. If it solves your problem, maybe it's worth the $10 they are asking.

Offhand, I'd suspect a problem with a fatigued wire, probably a thermistor wire, but possibly a heater wire. Once a print starts, the printer is "blind" to the "endstops" and it also pays no attention to stepper motors stalling out or anything like that. If it can go through the steps of calibrating X, Y, and Z and starting a print, then there's no reason for the firmware to stop running unless a temperature has gone out of range or (much less likely) there's a problem communicating with the computer over the USB cable (which could be in the computer or in the cable). Re-flashing the firmware should not even be considered until all other options are exhausted, and this symptom does NOT point at a corrupted firmware image.

Wow, moving from VA beach to Kansas... from ocean front to as far away from salt water as you can get in the US. Trading hurricanes for tornadoes. Hope it was a very worthwhile move for you!
-RJ
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
"My next printer is..." Prusa i3 MK3
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RetireeJay
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Re: Simple Metal Freezes about five to ten layers in

Postby novice » 2018-Aug-Wed-22-Aug

Jack Crow wrote:...In other reading it could be a firmware bug.
With PBHQ off line, I have no idea where to get that from or how to re flash the printer. (More high voltage analog than a digital dude.)...

If at some point you have the need and wish to reflash the board, the resources necessary are all linked in this thread http://www.printrbottalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=11644 including a still active tutorial.
Trust me when I say if I can do it, you can too.
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Levelling print bed...
 
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Re: Simple Metal Freezes about five to ten layers in

Postby Jack Crow » 2018-Aug-Thu-18-Aug

RJ
Answers interlaced in your note...

I'd highly recommend using Repetier for diagnosing this. It will show you all the traffic going back and forth between the computer and the printer (even keeping a log), and it also shows you the current X, Y, Z coordinates, bed temperature, hot end temperature, and fan percentage. And best of all, you can have a graph of the bed & hot end temperatures vs time, so if anything flaky is going on, you have a pretty good chance of seeing it on at least one of those "channels".

(Ok.
Did the down load thing.
Skiped the option of paying for it since Im still broke.
Have no idea what to do with it.
Lots of settings and not much of it makes any kind of sense.)

Repetier does ask for a donation, but you can download without donating. If it solves your problem, maybe it's worth the $10 they are asking.

(Back to the question. What is it and what will it do. Mostly how to use it.)

Offhand, I'd suspect a problem with a fatigued wire, probably a thermistor wire, but possibly a heater wire.
Once a print starts, the printer is "blind" to the "endstops" and it also pays no attention to stepper motors stalling out or anything like that.
If it can go through the steps of calibrating X, Y, and Z and starting a print, then there's no reason for the firmware to stop running unless a temperature has gone out of range or (much less likely) there's a problem communicating with the computer over the USB cable (which could be in the computer or in the cable). Re-flashing the firmware should not even be considered until all other options are exhausted, and this symptom does NOT point at a corrupted firmware image.

Wow, moving from VA beach to Kansas... from ocean front to as far away from salt water as you can get in the US. Trading hurricanes for tornadoes. Hope it was a very worthwhile move for you!

(The problem was VB is a Navy town, and most anything the Navy wants done requires a clearance. Had one for years but it has since expired. Now thanks to that idiot Snowden and friends, it takes over a year to get it re instated. So Norfolk / Virginia Beach is a loosing game. Got a call from a head hunter for this gig here in Kansas. If all goes well it will pay very nice, for the next four months or so. It was supposed to be for six months but the company says it ends on 31 December. Still an improvement.

Im going to check out Youtube and see if there is anything on this program.

Thanks in advance.
Jack Crow
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Jack Crow
Waiting for printbed temp...
 
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Re: Simple Metal Freezes about five to ten layers in

Postby Jack Crow » 2018-Aug-Thu-18-Aug

RJ
Just tried to use cura and it can't find the printer any more.
Clearly I am missing a clue.

Jack Crow
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Jack Crow
Waiting for printbed temp...
 
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Re: Simple Metal Freezes about five to ten layers in

Postby RetireeJay » 2018-Aug-Thu-19-Aug

My workflow when using Repetier is to FIRST slice the object, THEN use Repetier Host to print it. You can use your existing Cura to do the slicing, just save the G-code and then load the G-code (not the STL) into Repetier. That bypasses all the settings, which have to do with setting up the slicing programs supplied with Repetier (namely Slic3r, Cura Engine, and Skeinforge).

The only setting you need to worry about in using Repetier Host as your diagnostic tool is to connect it to the correct COM Port. It may be able to find the port on its own, but if it doesn't you can find out the correct port by looking in Device Manager. (Oh, and MAYBE you'll have to play around with the Baud Rate, but probably not.)

Umm... another thought just hit me. Repetier sells at least three products: Repetier Host, Repetier Server, and Repetier firmware. You want ONLY Repetier Host. The Server just makes things more complicated unless you really need to set up a wireless connection and a Raspberry Pi between your computer and the printer. Server does have a bunch of settings; I took one look at that and ran in the other direction fast!
  • 0

Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
"My next printer is..." Prusa i3 MK3
User avatar
RetireeJay
My next printer is...
 
Posts: 4928
Joined: 2013-Jan-Wed-13-Jan
Location: Greenville, SC
Reputation: 494


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