Bed Level Problem

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Bed Level Problem

Postby beaug45 » 2018-Mar-Tue-12-Mar

I dug my old Printrbot Simple v3 (2014, made of wood) out of storage recently and have had some trouble getting it to print correctly. When I print the 3mm cube the print head appears to be closer to the bed when it is extended in the positive Y direction and further from the bed when it travels back in the negative Y direction. This has resulted in one side of the cube (before i kill the print) to be thick and rippled (when the extruder is further from the bed) and thin or no-existent when the head is close to the bed (i.e. the extruder is so close to the bed that no filament can come out). i have calibrated the auto-leveling probe several times but it has had a minimal effect on the outcome. Could my print bed be warped? or possibly the Y direction guide rails bent? If so is there a fix for this other than trying to straighten either of these pieces? or could the problem be something else?
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Bed Level Problem

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Re: Bed Level Problem

Postby RetireeJay » 2018-Mar-Tue-15-Mar

Do you have any kind of a straightedge you can use to check the bed for warping? The probe is supposed to correct for tilt, but it doesn't correct for curvature.
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
"My next printer is..." Prusa i3 MK3
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Re: Bed Level Problem

Postby beaug45 » 2018-Mar-Thu-07-Mar

I check the bed for straightness and it didn't appear to be warped. the guide rails don't appear to be warped either. my probe seems to be working (it lights up when near the bed). Could it be a firmware issue? previously i had used Cura on windows 7. I am now using windows 10 and Cura 15.04 and when i print i do not get the print window i used to (arrows for manual control, home buttons, temp input, etc.), it is just a window with "Connect", "Print", and "Cancel". I have tried using the newest version of Cura (3.2.1) and i can't even get it to talk to the printer.
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Re: Bed Level Problem

Postby RetireeJay » 2018-Mar-Thu-08-Mar

With Cura 15.04, you should be able to get the User Interface screen to control your printer by clicking on "File" > "Print" (even if you have nothing loaded for printing)

If you don't see it, you might check under the "Machine" tab to be sure you have a Printrbot selected, and in "Machine Settings" be sure that you have the right Serial Port selected and Baud Rate set to Auto.

I haven't tried Cura 3.2.1, but there may be similar configuration details that need attention there. I guess the latest version of Cura also supports the cloud-based printing that Printrbot introduced with the Rev G board - so make sure you aren't trying to go through the cloud or some kind of intermediary print manager.
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
"My next printer is..." Prusa i3 MK3
User avatar
RetireeJay
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Posts: 4919
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Re: Bed Level Problem

Postby Mooselake » 2018-Mar-Fri-11-Mar

beaug45 wrote:Could it be a firmware issue?


Very very unlikely to be a firmware issue. Possible, but it works for a lot of people and (ignoring the rare bit rot issue) the firmware doesn't age. The same microcontrollers are used in lots of other products (my pellet stove has an AtMega MCU) that last for 10 years or more. If the latest Cura doesn't work then try an older one, Repetier-Host, Pronterface (the original, not Cura Clone) for testing. Best to sort out the smallest number of issues at a time.

It's possible that you have the dreaded intermittent internally broken wire, but before that I'd recommend that you go over the bot. Those old plywood bots can change with humidity and age, and move a bot^^^ bit. Also check that the bearings and other parts for the cantilevered axis are tight and that screws, cable ties, etc. haven't loosened up while stored, they were known for being droopy, then give the whole bot a going over for the same. and then manually adjust the "leveling" (really tramming, but that's been beaten to death) using either the built-in leveling screws (if any on that model), or shims. You can use a piece of copier paper to check the gap (want a light drag when pulling it out) between the nozzle and bed, and you're only going for good and not perfect.

My original plywood plus needs a periodic going over for the odd loosened up screw. On printers it only takes a screwdriver, when old Moose get a loose screw it requires more expensive professional help

Kirk
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Modified KickStarter Classic Plus 7/2012
KS Thingybot Delta Pro 10/31/16
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