e3d adaptor with a small twist

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e3d adaptor with a small twist

Postby MrFluffy » 2016-Feb-Tue-17-Feb

So, I took my printrbot hotend apart to measure up for another project in the works, and the original ubis ceramic was pretty beat up and falling apart with a crack in it, so decided to fit a cheap e3d hotend I had got off ebay a few weeks back when I was considering it as a second extruder as a get me by while I'm making the next setup. I don't know if its a clone thing or original but the bowden connector is a seperate screw in piece with a 1/8npt thread on it.
I fired up my lathe and turned one up which gave me the same overall length as my original ubis (60mm from bottom of stepper shoe to hot end).
I machined a round 16mm diameter onto a bit of aluminium barstock long enough to have about 50mm hanging out from the chuck to work with and drilled it through 4mm ,then turned it down to 9.5mm for the end 11mm and cut a 1/8 npt thread onto that section. Machined in a ridge so the bolt which clamps the hotend into the extruder shoe would still pass centred 5mm from the reduced diameter (I just ran a parting tool 2.25mm in, if your feeling slick you can use a rounded profiling tool for the right shape) and parted the 16mm section off 10mm from the reduced diameter (the next chinese ebay sourced copy may vary, but your probably safe sticking to 10mm as its slightly adjustable for length with the sensor), then assembled it into the e3d with a ptfe liner slid into the adaptor right into the body of the e3d. Its not particulary clever or innovative, but it does hold the hot end really nicely and should expand and contract at the same rate as the e3d heatsink and it doesn't change the relationship between my printrbot y axis and the bed from the original. I'm more posting the dimensions for the record than claiming it as something special.

Image

This is why its only a short term thing. I'm not happy with how this sits yet, still playing and cutting and I want one of the inputs to be direct drive and the other two bowden's & is looking like its going to involve cutting the metal of the Y axis about a bit where the extruder mount is. I'll post pictures of that when I get it worked out so I am happy with it.
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e3d adaptor with a small twist

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Re: e3d adaptor with a small twist

Postby olendorf » 2016-Feb-Wed-09-Feb

So you are going to have 3 heads sharing a nozzle? If you can figure out how to run all 3 simultaneously and in the correct proportions you can, in theory, use red, yellow, blue and get thousands of different color combinations while printing. Going to be tricky with the models though. Full color models! I'll be watching this thread. :D
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Re: e3d adaptor with a small twist

Postby thawkins » 2016-Feb-Wed-10-Feb

olendorf wrote:So you are going to have 3 heads sharing a nozzle? If you can figure out how to run all 3 simultaneously and in the correct proportions you can, in theory, use red, yellow, blue and get thousands of different color combinations while printing. Going to be tricky with the models though. Full color models! I'll be watching this thread. :D


The problem is going to be preventing backflow, if all 3 extruders are connected to the same nozzle then what is to prevent the red filament melt from pushing back into the blue extruder if the pressures as not balanced. The pressure inside an extruder can in the worse cases reach 200lb/squinch, i have heard stories about people literaly spliting the peak barels on thier extruders due to over pressure.

Im not suggesting this wont work, but its may have some tricky elements.
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Re: e3d adaptor with a small twist

Postby MrFluffy » 2016-Feb-Wed-13-Feb

I'm sure its not going to be completely plain sailing, but nothing ever really is. Maybe it relies on the same priniciples as exhaust bicarforation on a engine, in that the gasses take the easy route out the exhaust rather than back up into the valve on a shared cylinder :-)

The reprap.org site has some discussion on this, and facebook has a diamond hotend users group with some pretty fancy prints with multi colour and mixing in the prints, also fade between colours etc. Lots of grief setting it up with wipe towers and the like though of course.

http://reprap.org/wiki/Repetier_Color_Mixing

My principle concerns are to keep the weight on my Y axis as low and as close to the axis centreline as possible as its a simple metal with a single Z axis.
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Re: e3d adaptor with a small twist

Postby Mooselake » 2016-Feb-Wed-14-Feb

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Re: e3d adaptor with a small twist

Postby MrFluffy » 2016-Feb-Wed-04-Feb

well got the e3d single extruder in and semi working after the thermistor on the ubis crumbled away unwrapping it (I had the very early ubis ceramic which used plumbers ptfe tape to insulate and tie it to the hotend) and having to order some and wait for them to turn up. But... disappointment.
First I had uprated the xbox psu from a 175w to a 205w unit and got a beagebone black to put octoprint on (talk about too many changes at once), and with the beaglebone the printrbot kept rebooting when the heaters came up to temperature on the gui. Back on the host pc instead and it still did it, but putting the 175 back on fixed this, so the 205 probably has something wrong with it and its wilting under full load. I'll try the 205 on the xbox I have and if it causes hassles on that too, it can go back to the seller. I wonder how many random rrod'ing xboxes are actually down to weak psu's...

Moving on, it sure comes up to temperature quick but the extruder keeps clogging and the extruder skiping when I finally got that sorted and when I extracted the filament it dragged my ptfe tube out and came out extra thick in the body, so theres a big void in the body somewhere well past where my ptfe joins the original innards.
I'll strip it back out and investigate. Perhaps I'll run a drill + reamer right through the heatbreak in the lathe and make a whole peek liner myself.
To be fair, its obviously not a genuine e3d because it was $20, and most probably the cloners have screwed something up inside. Now to find out what.
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Re: e3d adaptor with a small twist

Postby MrFluffy » 2016-Feb-Wed-08-Feb

Yep, theres a void in the casting of the original stock inside, and when I extracted the original ptfe tube it was a funny shape near it.
I also managed to break it with hand pressure unscrewing it. There's not much wall thickness between the roots of the threaded section of the hotend side and the hole for the ptfe tube outer for sure.
I took one of the 3 heatbreaks from the diamond for now, and removed the pushfit and tapped it 1/8ntp and reused my adaptor, assembled it all with a single ptfe tube and its finally extruding smoothly.
The bad bit is my random resets have now started happening again, so not the psu. I'm trying printing from the card, but I think the printrbot is resetting itself for some reason. Maybe the heater or thermistor has a bad connection and goes to ground randomly or something.
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