1405 Makers Simple 300mm Y Axis No Sag

[orangefurball]

[KD6HQ]

Looking at the diagram below you will see that there are 5 connections points.

Input (1,2) - connect to the Printrbot fan connector.
NO (3), C (4) and NC (5) or Normally Open, Common and Normally Closed.

In this case you want to use the Common and NO (Normally Open) connection.
When the Printrbot PC board tells the fan to turn on, the electromagnet
will activate and cause the switch to move from NC to NO. This completes the path
between the power source and the Load ( Fan or ? ).

If you have never done this before I would suggest you find a local person
to over watch what you are doing. I would not want you to end up with a
printer that is not working because you were trying to improve it.

Good luck

[orangefurball]

[RetireeJay]

[mummson]

hijacked thread is hijacked... Sry

[jwiede]

[KD6HQ]

Thanks RetireeJay, I had forgotten that the fan is controlled by pulse-width modulation.
I remember reading that now that you mention it.
In my case I just use the fan at full speed all the time, because I do not use the fan control
on the printrboard. I'm using a relay for all fans and other attachments I am in the process of adding.

jwiede -

Not every one uses an ATX power supply. In my case I'm using a 12 variable supply made by MFG. model # 4275MV,
it is a 12V variable supply with 75A surge and 70 A continuous ratting. When I get done with other modifications
I am making I will be adding a heated bed. Figured it would handle just about any size heater up to 15 X 15 or so....

7-8-14

[jwiede]

[KD6HQ]

jwiede

If you don't mind, how do you have your power supply housed?
I'm considering increasing my bed size to 10 X 10 and if I do that I will need to move the printer. So I will not have convenient access to the current power supply. So I'm
thinking the ATX power supply is much cheaper way to go.

thanks

kd6hq
7-12-14

[Munson]

KD6HQ,I glue gunned my atx to the side of my 1405 with the switch facing the back.Much easier to transportImageUploadedByTapatalk1405302139.952134.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1405302139.952134.jpg

[jwiede]

[Munson]

Ok,I finally got around to Y/Z print where all the bearings are housed for the Y/Z along with the Y motor.My question is,has any one noticed that one of the bearing pockets is not as deep as the rest?does it make a difference in performance?

[Jon Lawrence]

[Corey Warren]

I've printed around 4-5 of these and I've seen this several times.

The workaround I use is to rotate the piece 90 degrees on the z-axis, of course. On my original printer I had to rotate it for it fit so I never saw the problem until I tried to print another one with my larger print bed that didn't need it rotated.

[killbox]

so I'm using the fan for the extruder motor for my print fan because A it's angled better IMO and I have attached the drag chain to it so it sits outside the XL tower upgrade thus allowing me to still have a drag chain. Now I'm finding that there isn't enough air flow hitting the part and my E3D is blocking most of it. Would it be possible to design a fan duct to reach under the E3D V6? or is the space too small?

[Munson]

I finally had the time to print the longer prints for the 1405.I noticed in another question presented in the forum the printer does not print square.I With that said,does the prints for the mod further throw the printer out of square?

[Munson]

I utilized the fan that cools the hot end to prevent the heat from rising and melting the front part that supports the self leveling probe and extruder.When the fan is on to prevent the heat from melting the printed front end I have issues.If I am running the repetier program to heat at 200 I am l lucky if I can get to 186.Should I raise the temp??

[Jon Lawrence]

[ChefScott]

[orangefurball]

[ChefScott]

Thank you very much for those responses to my questions Orangefurball! Off to go place some part orders now!

[Jc61990]

Printing out the parts for this now. Hopefully this fixes my slanted prints problem. They only come out slanted in the Y-Axis. I've tried just about everything, Putting in new zip ties and really cranking them down. Tried a 9 point auto level firmware, and I even tried offsetting the bed a bit to compensate for the slant I've been getting. This is my last resort now. I eventually wanted to make my simple 200x200, so this would be a start in that direction. Now I just hope these parts come out good enough to use. I've tried to eliminate the sag issue for the time being so I can get these parts out perfect. Going to do them in ABS since I added a heated bed last year before I transitioned over to the 1405. Lets hope this works.

[orangefurball]

[ChefScott]

Is this diagram for the GT2 belt correct for the start/end of the belt? Also, if I am keeping the Y end-stop switch in the original 1405 location, do I need to have the EndStopFlagDouble at all?
belt-path.png

What purpose does the GT2BeltWedge have? Where would it be used?

[KD6HQ]

Gt2 Belt Start/End - correct
EndStop FlagDouble - not needed

Nice drawing!

[ChefScott]

All was done with Sketchup, except for the text, arrows and belt path that was done in CorelDraw. I was just having a hard time wrapping my head around the belt path for some reason (it would be kind of hard to get my head in there anyway).
Thank you for confirming how I thought it went.

[kylebutts]

I'm trying to install this upgrade (printed PLA parts with 50% infill), and I can't figure out how to power the extra fans that are supposed to be added. I just have a couple 40mm computer case fans, same as the one that came with the printrbot 1405. This is probably an easy problem to solve, but the only circuits experience I have is from physics back in college, and that was not at all in depth, and was a lot of years ago. Can anyone help me out?

[orangefurball]

[murx]

[orangefurball]

[bluewhale]

What is the difference between the single and double precision setups?

[Some Printr Noob]

[Desdemona1]

Hello all, How can I use this mod and keep the auto level probe for calibration and use a Z optical or Hall end stop at the same time?

i just can't seem to find the info anyplace.

Nice work on these mods.

[RetireeJay]

[DavidTheNerd C]

Just a quick question, does anyone know if I can use my current probe that came with my 1405 instead of buying a new one? I do know that mine is a 4mm and the one used in the mod is a 12. Not totally sure if I should spend 40 dollars on a new one? Also, I use a e3d v 6 if that matters.