My Printrbot Simple

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My Printrbot Simple

Postby zero10 » 2014-May-Fri-08-May

Okay, not really MY printrbot as it is shared between a couple of us in the office but I'm the one posting it!

Image
Image

I just wanted to say a big thanks to Jon Lawrence (I hope I spelled that right) for his work on the X and Y extensions.

List so far:

PVC filament spool holder (1/2" NPT threaded flanges, 1/2" NPT threaded pipe and some 90* elbows)
XBox power supply so I can run a heated bed as well. Doesn't help that the power brick shipped with my printer was defective anyway
Jon Lawrence's Y extension using rods to give me 165mm of Y travel plus GT2 belt drive
Jon Lawrence's stock-width X extension with rods giving me 305mm of X travel plus GT2 belt drive
6x12" 1/4" thick aluminum plate which I milled out the backside to reduce weight to 435g
New LM8UU bearings on all replaced parts (just so I can swap the old ones back with minimal changes if necessary)

Currently in the works:
100mm bearing spacing X extension with second GT2 belt on the front
Heated bed (I have an 8x8 heated bed and appropriately sized glass sheet but have not yet established how to mount it)
Organization
Robot army to stand as guards behind the safety fence
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My Printrbot Simple

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Re: My Printrbot Simple

Postby evanalmighty » 2014-May-Fri-09-May

Very nice. Such a clean setup.
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Re: My Printrbot Simple

Postby spitfirehauser » 2014-May-Fri-09-May

I really like you setup, i wish my work-space was so clean. :lol: Nice job all around. I like the little fence you strung around, i assume that's so the simple does not walk itself off the table. to that end i printed two of these http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:196737 and secured them to the large piece of wood that sits under my bot and on top of my work table. then it just run a pin through the bot to lock it in place, but it still lets me move the printer if i need to. cheers
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Re: My Printrbot Simple

Postby zero10 » 2014-May-Fri-10-May

Thanks for the kind words!

To keep the printrbot from walking off the table (which was a huge issue before!) I used 4 1" 90 degree angle brackets. The spacing was perfect for the 2 front screws on each side of the printrbot then I just screwed them down to the black board. That printer is not going anywhere! :D

It took a while to get the setup this clean and I still have more organizing and cleaning to do. Now I have 3 rolls of filament overhead and need to figure out some storage for the heated bed and other bits that aren't in use. Since the printer is in the office I work at (and I do NOT do 3d printing related work...) it needs to look good so we don't get in trouble :oops: I still need to secure the power supply and do a better job on cable routing, plus print the 100mm x-axis bearing extension with switch pockets so I can move the power supply switch into the printer itself.

The fence is just to be interesting. I was going to stand some lego men around the printer (various things policemen, construction men, etc.) but then thought it would be more fitting to print some little robots and fasten them to the board.
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Re: My Printrbot Simple

Postby REPRAP SQUAD » 2014-May-Fri-11-May

Very nice setup. How do you like the Xbox psu? I've used about 7 or so of the xbox psus on different builds and I love em. Compact with lots of sweet features. If your going to run an 8x8 heated bed. The 203watt xbox psu can run it all but, I recommend using a seperate psu for the heated bed with a relay. It puts a lot less stress on the printrboard as well as some added protection. Lemme know if you need any help with getting your heated bed setup. You have a great lookin printer with a clean setup.
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Re: My Printrbot Simple

Postby zero10 » 2014-May-Fri-14-May

REPRAP SQUAD wrote:Very nice setup. How do you like the Xbox psu? I've used about 7 or so of the xbox psus on different builds and I love em. Compact with lots of sweet features. If your going to run an 8x8 heated bed. The 203watt xbox psu can run it all but, I recommend using a seperate psu for the heated bed with a relay. It puts a lot less stress on the printrboard as well as some added protection. Lemme know if you need any help with getting your heated bed setup. You have a great lookin printer with a clean setup.



Thanks so much! That means a lot coming from you

I just switched to the XBox PSU a week ago. I was using a 150W PC power supply before (which was good enough for the printer, but certainly not enough for the heated bed). Wanting to upgrade I had 2 options:
1) Buy a new PC power supply
2) Use the old XBox PSU I had sitting on a shelf from my old parted-out XBox

I went with option 2. The power supply claims to be good for 16.5A at 12V. I have measured and I am only drawing a few amps with only the extruder running, and my 8x8 heated bed draws approximately 7.8A at 11.5V, so I should have 2-3A of overhead left. I am concerned about cooking the power supply so I may just upgrade to a 400W+ ATX power supply for safety. I have plugged in the heated bed and run it for about 2 minutes and during that time the MOSFET on the printrboard did not get overly warm and seemed to tolerate the load okay. I grafted a 4-pin connector (through the use of a terminal strip) to the XBox PSU so I should have sufficiently sized wiring getting to the printrboard.

I could add a separate power supply and a relay without much trouble, though I believe I'll have to recompile the firmware to change the heated bed to bang-bang mode?

My biggest issues so far are just surrounding affixing the heated bed to the print surface. I tried using some studs threaded into the bed (with nuts underneath for strength), then angled steel flat bars to clamp the bed down but that caused my 3mm glass to warp up in the center quite severely and the wing nuts I used on the top ran a serious risk of crashing into the extruder assembly.
I think I'm going to bend up some S/Z shaped brackets and use shorter head bolts instead of studs to clamp it down, then move the whole assembly over to the home side of the X axis instead of centering it.

I think I'm getting a bit rambly and should maybe start my own thread in the mod talk section :oops:
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Re: My Printrbot Simple

Postby REPRAP SQUAD » 2014-May-Fri-18-May

zero10 wrote:
REPRAP SQUAD wrote:Very nice setup. How do you like the Xbox psu? I've used about 7 or so of the xbox psus on different builds and I love em. Compact with lots of sweet features. If your going to run an 8x8 heated bed. The 203watt xbox psu can run it all but, I recommend using a seperate psu for the heated bed with a relay. It puts a lot less stress on the printrboard as well as some added protection. Lemme know if you need any help with getting your heated bed setup. You have a great lookin printer with a clean setup.



Thanks so much! That means a lot coming from you

I just switched to the XBox PSU a week ago. I was using a 150W PC power supply before (which was good enough for the printer, but certainly not enough for the heated bed). Wanting to upgrade I had 2 options:
1) Buy a new PC power supply
2) Use the old XBox PSU I had sitting on a shelf from my old parted-out XBox

I went with option 2. The power supply claims to be good for 16.5A at 12V. I have measured and I am only drawing a few amps with only the extruder running, and my 8x8 heated bed draws approximately 7.8A at 11.5V, so I should have 2-3A of overhead left. I am concerned about cooking the power supply so I may just upgrade to a 400W+ ATX power supply for safety. I have plugged in the heated bed and run it for about 2 minutes and during that time the MOSFET on the printrboard did not get overly warm and seemed to tolerate the load okay. I grafted a 4-pin connector (through the use of a terminal strip) to the XBox PSU so I should have sufficiently sized wiring getting to the printrboard.

I could add a separate power supply and a relay without much trouble, though I believe I'll have to recompile the firmware to change the heated bed to bang-bang mode?

My biggest issues so far are just surrounding affixing the heated bed to the print surface. I tried using some studs threaded into the bed (with nuts underneath for strength), then angled steel flat bars to clamp the bed down but that caused my 3mm glass to warp up in the center quite severely and the wing nuts I used on the top ran a serious risk of crashing into the extruder assembly.
I think I'm going to bend up some S/Z shaped brackets and use shorter head bolts instead of studs to clamp it down, then move the whole assembly over to the home side of the X axis instead of centering it.

I think I'm getting a bit rambly and should maybe start my own thread in the mod talk section :oops:


As far as recompiling firmware, I guess it depends what firmware your running. I had marlin unified 2 on my plus and it ran fine with no changes to the firmware. It can be very tricky to get the heated bed mounted in a way that is: flat, works correctly, doesn't run into bolt heads etc. Every setup is different and takes a bit of trial and error to get it just right. I used a small 4 way terminal block that is mounted next to my bed. This keeps all the wiring from bending and flexing which can cause issues down the road. I have a thick flat piece of cork with the heated bed mounted above the cork. I also have aluminum spacers that the heated bed itself mounts to. Heres a few pics of what I threw together.
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Twitter: @REPRAPSQUAD
Check it out: Build logs, 3D printer news and all things Printrbot--http://reprapsquad.wordpress.com
PC Case Mods 3D printed:
http://www.enviousmods.com

RepRap Squad's The 1st Simple (XL)
* Custom built that towers over the LC

Printrbot Plus V2 W/
*Dual extruder PB Version (2-Ubis 1.75mm hotends)
*Heavily Modded and all axis extended
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