Drawcut's Printrbot

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Drawcut's Printrbot

Postby drawcut » 2013-Apr-Sat-16-Apr

Edit 6/2/13: Major updates in post 5.

I just finished making a plexiglass enclosure for my Printrbot, so I thought I would show that off along with some of the mods I've done. Mine is an original printed part Printrbot. (And I still haven't swapped out the original gears for a spur set! They are wearing so it won't be too long. :lol: )

I have switched to a different power supply seen on the left. The bed leveling upgrade is well worth it.
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The plexi enclosure is fairly simple. It is just two halves that sit on the table and butt together. There is a slot cut in the front edge of the back top piece that allows the filiment in. The clear angles are made from plastic wall corner protector material. It does trap some heat so I'm hoping it will help reduce warping. There is also a webcam mounted on the spool holder so I can keep an eye on prints from upstairs.
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Added an aluminum stiffener to the bed to help brace against the belt tension. Also seen here is my copy of Brook's new Y belt attachment. I hated the originals. GT2 belts and pulleys were another very worthwhile investment.
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At the back of the bed is my copy of Brook's new Y belt tensioner. Can't really see it but I just use a zip tie attachment rather than the close fitting toothed piece. I like zip ties! :D The handles on the binder clips are bent for clearance.
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I have changed to 5mm brass threaded Z rods with a simple plastic tube with zip ties coupling. (Did I mention I like zip ties?) I really like this change. The rods just sit directly on top of the motor shaft and they are the same diameter. The plastic tubing has good side flex but is stiff enough in torsion to work very well. The brass rods have more accurate threads than the original steel rods and less friction. The metric threads let me pick a layer height that gives no rounding errors. The thinner rods are plenty strong for lifting the X carriage but if they have a little bend in them, the lower mass will tend to induce less Z wobble than the thicker ones.
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I printed an adapter piece that is sized to a 5/16" hex nut on the outside with a 5mm nut pocket and 6mm through hole. I do like the PB design that allows the nut to pull out of the X carriage if you crash the head too badly and I wanted to keep that. Brass threaded rod is kinda expensive - may go with stainless rod and brass nuts (maybe 6mm) if I build another.
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I've been using 1/8" aluminum plate as a printing surface. I scuff up the surface and use hairspray, floor wax or ABS juice depending on my mood. I run the plate long in the Y direction so I can clip it down without intruding in on any of the printable area. I have some shims made up that are the same thickness as the heated bed that go under the clip areas to keep everything flat and flush. The binder clips in the back have the handles bend up a bit to clear the lower bed. The blue tape on the clips is to quiet the clip handles during printing. 40mm cooling fan and relocated Z home position limit switch also visible.
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The shims are just visible on the inside of the binder clips.
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Added some foam weather stripping around the perimeter, between the two beds. This creates a dead air space for insulation. Also gives some extra support to the springs.
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I'm sure I forgot some of the changes I've made. Many of these upgrades came from other Printrbot users here or around the web. This is not the only way to do it, it's just my way.
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Last edited by drawcut on 2013-Jun-Sun-15-Jun, edited 1 time in total.
Printrbot original. Major mods: Y axis extended to ~8", Z extended to ~8.5". 5mm SS Z threaded rods w/ flex couplings. E3D hotend. Purchased Acetel gears. Glass bed with Elmers' purple glue stick for most prints. Top of Z axis rods have added cross structure similar to a Prusia i3.
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Drawcut's Printrbot

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Re: Drawcut's Printrbot

Postby discuc » 2013-Apr-Sat-20-Apr

That is very cool
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Re: Drawcut's Printrbot

Postby pkl atl » 2013-Apr-Mon-05-Apr

Looks great! Two questions:

. What's the motivation for the plexi-glass enclosure
. How well does the Aluminum bed work?
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Re: Drawcut's Printrbot

Postby drawcut » 2013-Apr-Mon-18-Apr

The main reason for the enclosure is to allow the print area to heat up a bit above the surrounding temp. I'm hoping it will help reducing warping and help adhesion. Secondary reason is to keep the cats out of things. I made it just pull apart because I wanted a lot of easy access to the printer rather than trying to reach in through a door.

The Aluminum bed works great. I highly recommend it.
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Printrbot original. Major mods: Y axis extended to ~8", Z extended to ~8.5". 5mm SS Z threaded rods w/ flex couplings. E3D hotend. Purchased Acetel gears. Glass bed with Elmers' purple glue stick for most prints. Top of Z axis rods have added cross structure similar to a Prusia i3.
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Re: Drawcut's Printrbot

Postby drawcut » 2013-Jun-Sun-15-Jun

Did some major updates.

Image
P1000257 by Drawcut, on Flickr

The biggest change was increasing the Y axis length. I swapped out the Y 8mm shafts for some 400mm long ones and changed the bed to Garolite. The lower bed is 1/4" Garolite XX, the upper is 3/16" Garolite CE.

Image
P1000263 by Drawcut, on Flickr

The set up is pretty much the same as the PB bed leveling system. I swapped over the springs and screws. I had to add some bits of rubber under the screw heads or they just slip on the hard, smooth Garolite. I haven't printed the full length of the new Y axis yet, but so far prints in the smaller front area work fine.

Image
P1000271 by Drawcut, on Flickr

Also added some Al angles and leveling feet at the base to counter the longer Y axis. The angles are just slightly below the Z motors. Glued some rubber to the bottom of the feet for anti slip and vibration dampening. This all seems to work well - the printer is more stable than original.

Image
P1000260 by Drawcut, on Flickr

I had extra 400mm long rods so I decided to extend the Z rods to give me room to add a top stiffener.

Image
P1000265 by Drawcut, on Flickr

The stiffener set up is highly adjustable with the nuts on the threaded rod. Not sure how much this will help printing but it did give me some experience printing the Nylon parts.

Image
P1000269 by Drawcut, on Flickr

Also added some slots in the upper print bed. With the T head screws, I can slip them in and with a quarter twist, they let me clamp down a print surface that is shorter than the full extended Y length.

Image
P1000272 by Drawcut, on Flickr
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Printrbot original. Major mods: Y axis extended to ~8", Z extended to ~8.5". 5mm SS Z threaded rods w/ flex couplings. E3D hotend. Purchased Acetel gears. Glass bed with Elmers' purple glue stick for most prints. Top of Z axis rods have added cross structure similar to a Prusia i3.
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drawcut
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