Rebuilding my big printer.

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Rebuilding my big printer.

Postby MartyS » 2015-Dec-Thu-11-Dec

I've started rebuilding my big printer, currently mulling over different ideas for how to do the Y rods.

Thinking the final printing area will be X 200 mm, Y 250 mm, Z 300-320 mm.

This is what I have so far:

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Rebuilding my big printer.

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Re: Rebuilding my big printer.

Postby orangefurball » 2015-Dec-Thu-17-Dec

MartyS wrote:I've started rebuilding my big printer, currently mulling over different ideas for how to do the Y rods.

Thinking the final printing area will be X 200 mm, Y 250 mm, Z 300-320 mm.

This is what I have so far:

Image


Have you thought about going with rails and ditching the rods? You already have the aluminum frame there, it may be fg
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2 CoreXY Machines 200x200x200/600mm
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Thingybot Delta Printer
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http://www.thingybot3d.com
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Re: Rebuilding my big printer.

Postby MartyS » 2015-Dec-Thu-18-Dec

orangefurball wrote:Have you thought about going with rails and ditching the rods? You already have the aluminum frame there, it may be fg


It would make the Y gantry easier to design, but I already have the rods and bearings....

I'm not sure the parts I made to hold the aluminum cross bar are good enough, but I think if I build the supports for the rods between the YZ blocks I can use them to get extra support, some screws between the rods pressing onto the YZ blocks should give extra stiffness. Maybe throw in some epoxy just to make it all rock solid.

All these printer builds really do improve your CAD skills, one of the reasons I keep rebuilding with mostly the same parts.
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Re: Rebuilding my big printer.

Postby orangefurball » 2015-Dec-Fri-21-Dec

MartyS wrote:
orangefurball wrote:Have you thought about going with rails and ditching the rods? You already have the aluminum frame there, it may be fg


It would make the Y gantry easier to design, but I already have the rods and bearings....

I'm not sure the parts I made to hold the aluminum cross bar are good enough, but I think if I build the supports for the rods between the YZ blocks I can use them to get extra support, some screws between the rods pressing onto the YZ blocks should give extra stiffness. Maybe throw in some epoxy just to make it all rock solid.

All these printer builds really do improve your CAD skills, one of the reasons I keep rebuilding with mostly the same parts.

I really don't know if there would be a huge difference between the rods and rails to be honest. If you already have them at the right size then I see no reason to change.

You can do a printed a piece to hold the crossbar on, something thicker that can hold it all together almost like an end cap. Shouldn't be too hard to design and might waste a bit of material, but it would look pretty good.
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2 CoreXY Machines 200x200x200/600mm
Cubify Cube3 & Makerbot Replicator Mini

Thingybot Delta Printer
150x150x200mm circular build volume, high precision open source 3D printer.

http://www.thingybot3d.com
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Re: Rebuilding my big printer.

Postby MartyS » 2016-Mar-Sat-11-Mar

I haven't been doing much printing lately but I finally got around to designing the last few pieces needed, so mechanically it's done, just have to do some more wiring and then calibration.


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Re: Rebuilding my big printer.

Postby MartyS » 2016-Mar-Sat-23-Mar

Got everything wired up, and got the 2 steppers for Z properly wired up on the first try. Never wired 2 on parallel before, quite amazing how they try to synchronize even without any power.

With those pricey Z threads I got the steps per mm are only about 400, I was playing around with different settings and it could move pretty fast, I toned it down a bit for normal use.

Forgot I moved the Y motor where it is so I lost a bit in Z, so the print area ended up at X200, Y230, Z295.
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Re: Rebuilding my big printer.

Postby MartyS » 2016-Mar-Sat-23-Mar

Forgot to add the picture of it printing:

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Re: Rebuilding my big printer.

Postby MartyS » 2016-Mar-Sun-13-Mar

And a quick 1 minute video to show it in action:

https://youtu.be/lG_63KpeFug
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Re: Rebuilding my big printer.

Postby MartyS » 2016-May-Fri-00-May

Finally got around to buying a better heat pad for this thing, got a SainSmart RepRap MK2B in today.

I used the thermistor that came with my E3D V6 without doing any firmware changes, seems to be fine since I'm not going above 70, it reads room temp correct and seems to be within a few degrees of 70 when it stabilizes. I just want some heat to prevent warping on large prints, so far after a few tests it seems to do the trick.
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