Rev. D Firmware for a Plus 2.1 (1311) - Which one?

Rev. D Firmware for a Plus 2.1 (1311) - Which one?

Postby chiques » 2018-Feb-Thu-02-Feb

I see a whole bunch of 'Rev F' firmware listed on:

git_screen_capt.png


but none say 'Rev D' :?

I've tried:
Unified v2
Unified Firmware v3
bedlevel-v2

and they all return an error on the LCD screen.

I did download the firmware-updater-gh-pages.zip package and it has a hex file for my printer family 'plus-0.5.hex'. This does not return an LCD error but the X and Z functions are all screwed up. For example, moving the y bed all the way 'up', does not allow to move it back down. It also does not detect the 'Y End Stop switch'. The Z, same thing. It only goes 'up' and does not come back down. I'm guessing this is not for this version board.

Does anyone know of any other place I can download the Rev D firmware?
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Rev. D Firmware for a Plus 2.1 (1311) - Which one?

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Re: Rev. D Firmware for a Plus 2.1 (1311) - Which one?

Postby RetireeJay » 2018-Feb-Thu-08-Feb

I would have said for a Rev D board to use the Unified firmware, but apparently your Plus is quite different from my older Plus, which does not have an LCD screen. I've seen people say that supporting the LCD screen requires so much firmware that it forces compromises in other areas of the code (all models of Printrboard use the same Atmel chip, which doesn't have quite enough memory to support EVERY function everyone would want).

That said, if you find a version that does support your LCD and seems to be capable of running the motors and the heaters, you should be able to use it. If, when you give a "home" command on any axis and the motor drives that axis away from the "endstop" switch instead of toward it, you can fix that very easily by turning the motor's plug around end-for-end where it plugs into the board. This is guaranteed to work for X and Z.

However, you might still end up with a problem on the Y axis, because Printrbot changed the location of the Y "endstop" from Y=0 to Y=Max at some point in their production. So if the firmware thinks that homing Y places it at zero but it's actually at max, then that firmware is not going to work for you.

Worst case, you might have to go to the source code for the firmware that comes closest to working for you, modify the motor direction statements in "Configuration.h" and compile your own hex file. Once you get the tools to do this under your belt, it's not very difficult. There are posts in the forum about editing and compiling firmware.
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
"My next printer is..." Prusa i3 MK3
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Re: Rev. D Firmware for a Plus 2.1 (1311) - Which one?

Postby chiques » 2018-Feb-Sun-02-Feb

Thank you for the feedback. I'll look into editing and compiling the firmware.
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Re: Rev. D Firmware for a Plus 2.1 (1311) - Which one?

Postby chiques » 2018-Feb-Tue-00-Feb

Just curious. Would I make my life easier if I just purchased a RevF6 board like this one?

printrbot shop printrboard-rev-f6-microusb-connector

Printrboard Rev F6 – MicroUSB Connector
$69.00
SKU: 1421 Categories: Parts, Electronics
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Re: Rev. D Firmware for a Plus 2.1 (1311) - Which one?

Postby RetireeJay » 2018-Feb-Tue-08-Feb

The Rev F6 has several small improvements over the Rev D.

For safety, it uses a 6-pin connector for incoming power, which improves the safety factor of electrical current per pin compared to the connector's maximum rating. It uses screw terminals for the bed heater, again improving the safety factor for the connection point.

For convenience, it supports (but does not require) a probe for Z homing. It has "digipots" for setting the power going to each of the stepper motors instead of using potentiometers; this makes the setting available in software and avoids the potential difficulty of the potentiometers getting "noisy" or difficult to adjust.

It fits in the same "footprint" and (other than the heated bed) uses the same connectors in the same arrangement, so if cost is not a big barrier for you I'd say go for it! :D
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
"My next printer is..." Prusa i3 MK3
User avatar
RetireeJay
My next printer is...
 
Posts: 4908
Joined: 2013-Jan-Wed-13-Jan
Location: Greenville, SC
Reputation: 491


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