Antique Plywood Printrbot Plus Cooling

Antique Plywood Printrbot Plus Cooling

Postby Mooselake » 2017-May-Wed-12-May

After this discussion I took a close look at the test parts I've been making with the Ubis 13 HF, and found what looked like evidence of wobble in the short Celtic coasters matching the 2mm pitch on the Z screws. I searched through the depths of Thingiverse (all your data is ours) and found a Z wobble tester by the Plexter. Only a hint of wobble (exaggerated with carefully placed lighting in the picture, not visible in normal light), printed at 120mm/sec (or so, acceleration at 4000). On closer inspection the apparent wobble in the coaster was actually an interaction between the short section of infill in the larger base section of the coaster. Time to do some temperature/flow calibration with the HF

However the Plexus wobbler did show that my cooling is less than effective; the side with the hot glued on blower was OK, but on the other side of the hot end not so good. Time to revisit it. I started on a ducted fan design back when I still had the Wades/3.0 Ubis but never finished it. Time to take another look and see if it can be adapted to fit around the HF. Anybody with a plywood bot have any cooling recommendations?

Lit with an overhead LED lamp to make it look as bad as possible. I pulled out the little desk fan and put it on the melty side part way up. Time to do a bit HF temperature, etc. calibration instead of trying to see how fast it'll go.

WobbleTestPoorCooling.jpg


Kirk
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Antique Plywood Printrbot Plus Cooling

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Re: Antique Plywood Printrbot Plus Cooling

Postby Mooselake » 2017-May-Wed-13-May

Attached is some gcode to help determine your optimal printing temperature; it should work on most bots - load it and see if it'll fit on your bed. You might need to edit/comment out the bed temperature setting if you don't have one, and make sure in the preview that it'll fit. Not sure about the newer minibots. Speeds are pretty conservative, i.e. slow by Mooselab standards.

It's pretty simple, a scaled up test object that was slic3ed and then hand edited so the temperature starts at 230C and drops 5 degrees every 2mm (with a little side jog to allow the hot end to cool without leaving a zit). Look at it, find the best section, measure up to find the temperature that worked best. 185 to 200 looks good for HH3DP baby blue PLA.

used suggestions in another forum to come up with the idea so it's not an original Moose production.

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Re: Antique Plywood Printrbot Plus Cooling

Postby WayTooManyHobbies » 2017-Jun-Thu-05-Jun

Thanks, Kirk. I'll (hopefully) try it today, and post a picture if things go well.

My main printer is one of the antique wooden Printrbot Plus models. I bought it used, and keep meaning to upgrade things, but it's been so reliable that I'm loath to make major modifications. I did add a hot end cooling fan recently, but it's very simple (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2253387). I may duct it at some point.
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