Printing PLA on MT52 tape instead blue tape

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Printing PLA on MT52 tape instead blue tape

Postby Lemm » 2013-Dec-Mon-12-Dec

Hey there

I found a new tape to print on. The behaviour is the same like the normal blue tape but it's cheaper and ,for me very important, wider.
The mt52 I use is 20cm x 100m, so I can it on the complete printarea in one step.
It's also in 30cm available.

Some calculations:
-----------------------------------
Blue Painters:
4cm x 50m ~ 9€
I need about 1m for a complete change
makes 50 changes 9€

~18ct per change
-----------------------------------
MT52
20cm x 100m ~28€
complete change 26cm
makes ~380 changes 28€

~7ct per change
----------------------------------


If you want to test it look for orafol or oratape mt52 on ebay
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Printing PLA on MT52 tape instead blue tape

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Re: Printing PLA on MT52 tape instead blue tape

Postby Node7Elec » 2013-Dec-Mon-16-Dec

I heard some company's were trying to partner with 3M to get Blue tape but 100mm, 150mm, and 200mm wide.
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Re: Printing PLA on MT52 tape instead blue tape

Postby TutherJay » 2014-Apr-Mon-13-Apr

I'll be interested to try this MT52. What would be ?nice? is to find that it is ?better than? ye olde blue. Recently I've discovered that my green FR0Gtape is NOTICEABLY better than the MmM blue that I have, though I've only 2" green which makes more futzing than with the 3" blue. WAY worth the extra time to apply, as it lasts several prints; the blue almost always fails at one!

I'm afraid I'm STILL AFRAID to try the kapton square that came w/ my Pbot kit - don't want to tear it up like I've done so many times w/ the "cheap" tape. Funny that NOW I learn that the hotend should be expected to EXPAND LENGTHWISE significantly as it heats up - meaning that leveling the bed w/ it COLD only ASKS for trouble! NOW you tell me????

Oh well - straying from the topic. Sorry.

Am I fired?

tj
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Re: Printing PLA on MT52 tape instead blue tape

Postby RetireeJay » 2014-Apr-Mon-14-Apr

Hey, you're printing. So you must be fired up! ;)

Seriously, I have NOT found the expansion of the extruder due to warmup to be terribly significant. That said, however, it's impossible to overstate the importance of correct head-to-bed clearance. I would say that if you are printing with a layer height of 0.25 or 0.3mm you need to have the first layer controlled within 0.1 mm, preferably better. Too low and you may get the dreaded extruder clicking because it can't push plastic through a near-zero gap. Too high and you're just dropping a cooling thread of plastic onto the bed from above and getting no "squish" and no adhesion.
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Re: Printing PLA on MT52 tape instead blue tape

Postby spitfirehauser » 2014-Apr-Mon-16-Apr

:twisted: Ok am i the only simple owner that "adjusts" the Z rod during the initial "skirt" printing? I am all about making sure my bed is level and using paper to set my Z height but for the most part i just reach up and manually adjust it during that initial pass. As long as your bed is flat this works for me EVERY time..... i just turn it clock wise to get better squesh or counter clock wise to raise it up if i have to much squish..... at some point i will spring for the self leveling probe but right now i just make sure its "level" on all 4 corners before the print and adjust it by hand during the skirt phase of the print. PS... that's why i don't know if i could print on a junior or a plus, not have direct access to the Z rod would kill me since the z-limit switch is in no way repeatable 2 times in a row
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Re: Printing PLA on MT52 tape instead blue tape

Postby KDog » 2014-Apr-Mon-16-Apr

I do the same thing Steve. While the skirt is printing I adjust the leveling knobs to make sure the plastic bead looks right to me. I do two loops so that I can double check. Every once in a while I have to reset everything an start over though. Seems to work pretty well but my other printer is using auto-leveling and ultimately I think that is the way to go.
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Re: Printing PLA on MT52 tape instead blue tape

Postby DonaldJ » 2014-Apr-Tue-11-Apr

spitfirehauser wrote:
Ok am i the only simple owner that "adjusts" the Z rod during the initial "skirt" printing?


Not just for Simple owners; it's an acceptable technique.

viewtopic.php?f=80&t=6395
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