Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

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Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby drawcut » 2013-Sep-Sun-20-Sep

I finally got my hands on some PET filament (3mm) from Taulman (T-glase). I've been running prints over the weekend and so far so good. I had high hopes for this material and my initial testing has been very positive.

I've been using an extruder temp of 212 to 215C and a bed temp of 70C. On a plain glass bed, just squash the first layer down like you would for ABS and it sticks great. Pops loose when cooled to room temp or you can pry / scrape it off sooner if you're impatient. The glass leaves a smooth, perfect (or nearly perfect) surface on the part. No problems with parts breaking or leaving layers behind on the glass. I'll be experimenting with different surfaces and temperatures in the future. One goal is to find a cold surface that will hold a print.

Mechanical properties are excellent. None of this is scientific, just going by feel so far. It's stronger than ABS with great layer bonding - more similar to nylon. But it's stiffer than nylon - closer to ABS in that respect. For most parts I make strength and rigidity are both needed so PET fits my uses well.

Its' best property is very low shrinkage. Flat parts stay flat. Layers don't split. Corners don't lift. OK, sometimes a corner will lift very slightly, but unlike ABS and nylon, it won't keep lifting and warping as the print goes on. Prints don't get knocked off the bed from the extruder hitting a warped / lifting part.

It only comes in natural (clear) right now but is supposed to be available in colors by next year. In thin sections it can print very clear, in thicker sections it ends up more of a frosted / whitish - fairly similar to Taulmans' 645 nylon. I haven't tried any dyes yet but Sharpies work pretty well on finished prints. It can be glued. I've only tried Household Goop so far but that's worked well.

No problems with extrusion or jamming. The hobbed bolt grips it very well and the filament hasn't had any tendency to 'pigtail' between the hobbed bolt and the hotend.

The price is the one drawback I've found so far but overall this looks like my new favorite material.
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Printrbot original. Major mods: Y axis extended to ~8", Z extended to ~8.5". 5mm SS Z threaded rods w/ flex couplings. E3D hotend. Purchased Acetel gears. Glass bed with Elmers' purple glue stick for most prints. Top of Z axis rods have added cross structure similar to a Prusia i3.
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Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby JonS » 2013-Oct-Thu-01-Oct

How are you finding bridging? I found it sagged a lot during bridging. I tried different speeds, but couldn't get it to work on a long bridge test structure I was trying.

I came to the conclusion I needed to upgrade my cooling to get satisfactory results.

Other than that, I also found it to print very nicely, so I'm keen to sort this last piece out.
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby drawcut » 2013-Oct-Thu-17-Oct

I haven't done much with bridging but a couple of the parts I printed had some 9mm bridges that worked just fine. Cooling was enabled with the same settings I had for ABS.
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Printrbot original. Major mods: Y axis extended to ~8", Z extended to ~8.5". 5mm SS Z threaded rods w/ flex couplings. E3D hotend. Purchased Acetel gears. Glass bed with Elmers' purple glue stick for most prints. Top of Z axis rods have added cross structure similar to a Prusia i3.
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby JonS » 2013-Oct-Fri-01-Oct

What speed are you printing for bridging and what is your cooling set up?
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Printrbot Metal Plus with:

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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby drawcut » 2013-Oct-Fri-17-Oct

Bridging speed was 45 mm/s. My cooling fan is nothing special, a 40mm computer fan with no special duct or anything.. Cooling set to 100% during bridging.

ETA: using a .4mm nozzle with .3mm layer height.
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Printrbot original. Major mods: Y axis extended to ~8", Z extended to ~8.5". 5mm SS Z threaded rods w/ flex couplings. E3D hotend. Purchased Acetel gears. Glass bed with Elmers' purple glue stick for most prints. Top of Z axis rods have added cross structure similar to a Prusia i3.
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby JonS » 2013-Oct-Fri-22-Oct

Thanks. I'll try that speed. I have the same cooling arrangement and setting (100%).
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Printrbot Metal Plus with:

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- Dual Gear Head extruders
- Heated bed
- PEI print bed film

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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby drmatrix » 2013-Oct-Sun-22-Oct

Can you-all - post some pics of the prints with this new stuff. I just ordered a 3mm spool and can hardly wait to print with it. Sounds like the benefits of Nylon w/o the drool (please say w/o the drool). And printing on glass is GREAT.

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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby drawcut » 2013-Oct-Mon-18-Oct

Actually so far I've given away all the PET prints I've made so far to friends. But you are correct - pretty much no drool with PET.
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Printrbot original. Major mods: Y axis extended to ~8", Z extended to ~8.5". 5mm SS Z threaded rods w/ flex couplings. E3D hotend. Purchased Acetel gears. Glass bed with Elmers' purple glue stick for most prints. Top of Z axis rods have added cross structure similar to a Prusia i3.
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby JonS » 2013-Oct-Mon-21-Oct

I've printed a 5mm calibration steps and some bridging test structures.

I did also print some crystals downloaded from Thingiverse, but the tops didn't close up properly with a single-layer perimeter given my bridging problems, so I threw them away. I thought I'd come back to them after upgrading my cooling.
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Printrbot Metal Plus with:

- Dual Ubis 13S metal hot ends (swapped for original Ubis metals)
- Dual Gear Head extruders
- Heated bed
- PEI print bed film

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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby plexus » 2013-Oct-Wed-14-Oct

I finally put a 1.75mm ubis on my PB+ so I could try printing Jay's dial calibration adaptor with t-glase. well, yet again the wrath of 1.75mm filament infects my ability to print well. Why oh why is 1.75 becoming more popular? I can't stand it! 3mm is the way to go, or even thicker. i had to dial down my print speed to get the extruder speed down slow enough that the 1.75 wouldn't jam. its soooo sloooowwww. compared to what I can print with 3mm filament that is. I may order some 3mm t-glase now that its available and swap back to my 3mm ubis which works great at high speeds. death to 1.75! :twisted:
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby DJNOS1978 » 2013-Oct-Wed-14-Oct

So plexus, you are suggesting that if I can nail down 1.75mm filament I should be able to nail down 3mm without as many issues?
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby RetireeJay » 2013-Oct-Fri-13-Oct

I just printed a repair part for a carry-on bag's retractable handle - the part you press on to release the handle so it will extend or retract. I wanted something strong and rigid so I tried out the T-glase.

First was the problem of getting it to stick. I've been printing nylon onto bare Garolite at 55C, but that was no good for T-glase. Then I tried frosted glass at 60C and still no joy. Finally I got just barely enough adhesion by using some random hairspray on top of the glass.

I was printing at an indicated extruder temperature of 215C on my 'bot (60C bed, 0.4mm nozzle, 0.25mm layer height). The part came out OK, although there was some lifting at one end but not enough to ruin it. However, when I went to trim a few threads that were stuck to the base of the part, entire strings of plastic started peeling off. At this setting on my machine, layer-to-layer adhesion is horrible. This was a shock to me compared with nylon 645 extruded at 225C, where the layers are truly welded to each other and objects refuse to crack!

I only had a very small sample of T-glase, and used more than half of it, so there's no chance of trying that part again. I doubt I'll pursue it any more.

The "good" news is that I had slightly over-designed the part and I had to trim off about 1mm of material, and I accomplished it by simply peeling layers until it fit! So sometimes even our failures are successes! :)
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby drmatrix » 2013-Oct-Sun-17-Oct

My first T-glase print - just got the stuff and had to just print it! Well maybe not such a good idea.

Glass-T-glase.jpg


The weekly glass from Thingiverse

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:49834

This was an older slice / g-code before the 'vase' setting

; generated by Slic3r 0.9.8 on 2013-03-21 at 19:45:01

; layer_height = 0.3
; perimeters = 3
; top_solid_layers = 0
; bottom_solid_layers = 3
; fill_density = 0
; perimeter_speed = 30
; infill_speed = 60
; travel_speed = 130
; scale = 1
; nozzle_diameter = 0.4
; filament_diameter = 3
; extrusion_multiplier = 1
; perimeters extrusion width = 0.42mm
; infill extrusion width = 0.42mm
; first layer extrusion width = 0.60mm

printed in 1:28:43

Was done before the 'vase' setting and was a slice I did for ABS - Yes I did read the docs but just wanted to print something.

Printed on Glass with Kapton (with some residual ABS gue), and well it stuck too well - delaminated when I tried to remove it! :-(! The Bottom come off - but looks really good? As long as you don't try to put water or other liquids in it. May/Will try to glue the bottom back on - But what sort of glue works best?

The Docs suggest a bigger nozzel > 0.5mm and up and higher volume of extrusion, and slightly lower print speeds. I guess you could do the same by just increasing the extruder steps so more plastic is pushed through.

The docs included in the shipment suggest;

" Nozzle Size - If you don't have a larger nozzle, on the order of 0.7mm or lager, you can still change the nozzle setting in your slicer. The slicer will allow more material out, thus equating to a larger nozzle. There are limits, but testers of t-glase found they could increase their 0.4mm nozzle size in the slicer to 0.5mm and others found they could change their 0.5mm to 0.7mm."
Thus the reason for slower print speeds as more material has to be heated and pushed through the nozzle. They also suggest slice resolutions of 90% of nozzle diameter. So for the 0.4mm nozzle that would be 0.36mm and if pushed to the 0.5mm (vertual nozzle) would be 0.45mm. It has been noted no the - -

http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-features.html

web site that the thicker sliced prints tend to be more transparent while the thinner slices have more of a "brilliant luster" See my print was 0.3mm slices.


Heated bed -
"best surface is acrylic or glass heated to about 60C. If you have a very large flat bottom surface, you should increase the bed temp. As some use upwards of 100C, or more it should not be needed for t-glase."
But, I have read of folks printing on 'blue painters tape' and no heated bed; so??


Print temperature is suggested at 212C (why not? 210C or 215C) but that is what I will try in next print. They say if you note lots of bubbles - too hot; if cloudy thread - too cool.

But this seems to be fun stuff, don't you just love being on the 'bleeding edge'

Walker
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby drawcut » 2013-Oct-Sun-18-Oct

RetireeJay wrote:I just printed a repair part for a carry-on bag's retractable handle - the part you press on to release the handle so it will extend or retract. I wanted something strong and rigid so I tried out the T-glase.

First was the problem of getting it to stick. I've been printing nylon onto bare Garolite at 55C, but that was no good for T-glase. Then I tried frosted glass at 60C and still no joy. Finally I got just barely enough adhesion by using some random hairspray on top of the glass.

I was printing at an indicated extruder temperature of 215C on my 'bot (60C bed, 0.4mm nozzle, 0.25mm layer height). The part came out OK, although there was some lifting at one end but not enough to ruin it. However, when I went to trim a few threads that were stuck to the base of the part, entire strings of plastic started peeling off. At this setting on my machine, layer-to-layer adhesion is horrible. This was a shock to me compared with nylon 645 extruded at 225C, where the layers are truly welded to each other and objects refuse to crack!

I only had a very small sample of T-glase, and used more than half of it, so there's no chance of trying that part again. I doubt I'll pursue it any more.

The "good" news is that I had slightly over-designed the part and I had to trim off about 1mm of material, and I accomplished it by simply peeling layers until it fit! So sometimes even our failures are successes! :)


I haven't had any delamination issues yet with T-Glasse. So far I've had layer adhesion strength similar to nylon. Did you reduce your print speeds? I've used lower print speeds along with larger layer heights with a 212 indicated extruder temp with good success. I have to say that printing nylon on Garolite has spoiled me for first layer adhesion. Nylon sticks so easy to Garolite that the challenge isn't getting it to stick - it's getting it to not stick too much. With T-Glase I've been using smooth glass with a 70 C bed temp. You do have to get it pressed down a bit like ABS but it tends to stay stuck. I continue to be impressed with this materials' lack of shrinkage and warp. That along with the high strength. layer bonding and rigidity are making it my favorite material to use.
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Printrbot original. Major mods: Y axis extended to ~8", Z extended to ~8.5". 5mm SS Z threaded rods w/ flex couplings. E3D hotend. Purchased Acetel gears. Glass bed with Elmers' purple glue stick for most prints. Top of Z axis rods have added cross structure similar to a Prusia i3.
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby drmatrix » 2013-Oct-Sun-22-Oct

Well - see my post above -

The virtual 0.5mm nozzle was a bust - the Hobbed gear striped the filament and the filament 'pig-tailed' in the channel above the hot end, just too much flow for the 0.4mm - will bump the extruder settings to just below where that becomes an issue.

But bumping the the extruder steps seems to work OK -

Did the 'vase' setting on Slic3r and I am pretty happy with the results. Did slow it down as recommended in the docs- but next slice will put the speed back up to where it was - don't think that is necessary.

Printed on plan glass - cleaned w/Acetone and stuck like a charm and when glass was cool pooped up with out much effort. Even though is only 1 layer seem pretty tuff. And the walls are water tight (still some bottom leak issues). Should resolve w/next slice as I will bump up the extruder steps by 5% - 10% again.

Print head was at 220C, and print bed was @ 70C, on plan glass

; generated by Slic3r 0.9.10b on 2013-10-13 at 19:48:12
; layer_height = 0.300
; perimeters = 1
; top_solid_layers = 0
; bottom_solid_layers = 3
; fill_density = 0
; perimeter_speed = 20 <<<-- bump up to 30 next time and see
; infill_speed = 60
; travel_speed = 130
; nozzle_diameter = 0.4
; filament_diameter = 2.90
; extrusion_multiplier = 1
; perimeters extrusion width = 0.42mm
; infill extrusion width = 0.42mm
; solid infill extrusion width = 0.42mm
; top infill extrusion width = 0.42mm

And here is a comparison shot of the 2 glasses - left w/2 shells (the one in my post above) and right w/1 shell and the 'vase' setting I think the results are really quite good. Put a pen in it so you could appreciate the translucent / transparent quality of the print, in 'real' life it is very shiny almost like glass.

2glasses.jpg


I think I am going to like this stuff. (but does cost 2 x ABS or PLA - same as nylon)

It is resistant to Acetone, Not sure what will glue it, Not sure how to color it yet - but that will be coming I am sure.

Walker
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby hugerobots » 2013-Oct-Mon-02-Oct

Care to toss in some boiling water and see if it smells funny with it in there, the water gets an oil slick on top or if you're really adventurous, make tea?
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby drawcut » 2013-Oct-Mon-16-Oct

Did some testing with an unheated bed today. UHU glue stick and hairspray on glass both stuck well. I expect both of these should work on other materials as well. Good news for folks with unheated beds (Simple users, etc) and oddballs like me (I have extended my Y axis out to over 10" but I only have a 6 x 8 heatbed.
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Printrbot original. Major mods: Y axis extended to ~8", Z extended to ~8.5". 5mm SS Z threaded rods w/ flex couplings. E3D hotend. Purchased Acetel gears. Glass bed with Elmers' purple glue stick for most prints. Top of Z axis rods have added cross structure similar to a Prusia i3.
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby DJNOS1978 » 2013-Oct-Tue-07-Oct

How did you extend your Y axis on the simple when the firmware only lets you go the basic build volume? Did you rewrite firmware?
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby drawcut » 2013-Oct-Tue-18-Oct

I have a Printrbot Original. Sorry didn't mean to imply I had a Simple. But I think the answer is the same in either case: Yes, I had to recompile the firmware with the print area size edited.
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Printrbot original. Major mods: Y axis extended to ~8", Z extended to ~8.5". 5mm SS Z threaded rods w/ flex couplings. E3D hotend. Purchased Acetel gears. Glass bed with Elmers' purple glue stick for most prints. Top of Z axis rods have added cross structure similar to a Prusia i3.
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby DJNOS1978 » 2013-Oct-Wed-06-Oct

I have been looking for a "guide" to do this. I know there are forums all scattered with info on this. Can I just upload the plus firmware to my jr printrboard?
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby RetireeJay » 2013-Oct-Wed-09-Oct

I think the new "unified" software has commands built in to allow you to set your bed size. viewtopic.php?f=19&t=5194&p=33897&hilit=unified#p33897
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby drmatrix » 2013-Oct-Thu-15-Oct

Well - Dish-Washer Safe?

T-glase may be food safe but is not dish-washer safe; at least not for the single shell / vase type prints. Did not melt but did 'deform' into an unusable though interesting shape.

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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby hugerobots » 2013-Oct-Thu-22-Oct

Interesting. Too bad though! The Taulman guys have told me they're coming out with a higher temp-worthy filament that is food-safe by default too.

Fingers crossed for that food/dishwasher safe unicorn to come out sooner than later. Until then I don't see much point of printing in nylon what with all the adhesion, bed sticking and dribble issues.

Please let us know how it stands up in more tests. Might be the perfect filament for washers and fabric kind of stuff.
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby RetireeJay » 2013-Oct-Fri-07-Oct

hugerobots wrote:I don't see much point of printing in nylon what with all the adhesion, bed sticking and dribble issues.


The PET product is not nylon. Its behavior is quite different. For one thing, it's much more rigid. I have not done anything significant with it though.

What's the point of printing in nylon? I print in nylon because my wife and I can't stand the smell of ABS, and don't like the smell of PLA. Also, some of what I'm doing calls for a material that's tough, and nylon has that property in spades: viewtopic.php?f=74&t=5286. I've printed several pounds of nylon without bed adhesion problems, using either a canvas bed at room temperature or Garolite at 55C. Inter-layer adhesion beats any other material out there (see the link). OK, it's not going to be the best material for printing woven baskets due to the ooze problem. It all depends on what you are trying to do.
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
"My next printer is..." Prusa i3 MK3
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby drmatrix » 2013-Oct-Fri-12-Oct

The T-glase has some ozz - in the initial heating process but nothing like Nylon - and I have 'retract' turned on only if crossing perameters. You do need 2 - 3 loops on the 'skirt' to make sure everything is going good before the actual print starts. But have not had much issue w/too much stringing (have some sort of like a bad batch of ABS) but have not used any cooling.

Will be playing w/RiteDye next week (busy wkend coming) to see if can color this stuff.

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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby drmatrix » 2013-Nov-Thu-18-Nov

A little more experiance with T-glase;

Solid infill seems an issue as sort of 'balls up', so the 1st layer is OK but other bottom solid layers not so good - working on a work around.

Single thickness - 'vase' or just 1 shell seem to work ok 'unless' it is a complex shape with a top or bottom layer (ie shapes w/loops or holes in them) but if you set the top and bottom to 3 layers seesm to work better -
You have to go into the g-code and go to the end of the file and delete the last 3 layers (look for the "Z" moves) and then you have a vase again

Still haveing an issue getting "water tight" the side walls are fine (except as above) it is the bottom.

Not tried RitDye yet - its on the to-do list

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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby MileHigh3DII » 2014-Jan-Thu-02-Jan

Just started to use some on my PB+. I have the red and the clear. Not terribly round. 1.6-1.8mm. I used 1.71 on the clear and it was a bit gloopy. The red at 1.75 was a bit better, but I didn't do the same part.

It is pretty gloopy- even gloopier than PLA. I'm printing slow at 15mm/sec in Slic3r. I assume this is the length of the extrusion, not the amount of filament. I'm at 215C on my PB+v2.

It's not as crisp on the edges and small features as I'd like. Is that a temp thing? Is the filament variable and that is what is causing the clumping? I have retraction at 1mm. Do I need less or more.

I got the clear to pigtail because it seems I had the bolts on the extruder feeder too tigth and it was deforming and making some pretty deep cuts on the filament.

Any suggestions for cleaner prints?
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby plexus » 2014-Jan-Thu-13-Jan

Just started working T-glase with the E3D metal hot end. God I cant stand 1.75mm filament. Let me say that again: I can't stand 1.75mm filament and here's hoping it goes away or at least 3mm stands the test of time. I wasted about 10g of T-glase getting to not jam. And trust me with 2 years of PB experience and multiple upgrades and tweeks and many materials run through my hands and printer, I am pretty adept at getting things to work. That 10g is nothing compared to the 25 failed attempts at printing with it. good thing it jams within the first minute of printing or else I'd have lost more filament and time.

One thing I am finding: T-glase stays very pliable at 80-100C. my bed is at 100C set point which on the surface is about 80C. and when I print a large footprint for a few layers and stop, pulling up the print is like pulling a slice of thick goo off the bed. this, I think, is part of the issue with using the all metal hot end.

The hot end, surface temp of the heat break is about 50C with active forced air cooling. I think the challenge is that even at 50C outside temp (likely higher in the actual filament channel) is softening the PETT and because 1.75 has significantly less structural strength, its softening in the hot end and preventing enough back force causing a jam.

Of course, 3mm PETT in the 3mm E3D hot end poses no issues at all. it just prints. like most 3mm filament. no muss. no fuss.

But... the filament makers are pushing 1.75 down our throats and so its either suffer through the troubleshooting just to get it to print, find the same material in 3mm or use a different material in 3mm or dont print at all.

did I mention how much I abhor 1.75mm filament? there is absolutely no benefit to it over 3mm.
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby DJNOS1978 » 2014-Jan-Thu-14-Jan

Why do you hate 1.75mm? Is it a jamming issue and that's it? I don't mean "that's it" as a small thing. I know how bad that crap can tick you off. I just rebuilt my hot end due to jamming and jamming and jamming and jamming.
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby plexus » 2014-Jan-Thu-15-Jan

DJNOS1978 wrote:Why do you hate 1.75mm? Is it a jamming issue and that's it? I don't mean "that's it" as a small thing. I know how bad that crap can tick you off. I just rebuilt my hot end due to jamming and jamming and jamming and jamming.


yes jamming. the only thing I can think at the moment is that the heat sink on the E3D is running too hot for PETT. I am using their stock 30mm fan. So as part of the troubleshooting I switched to 3mm so I can print a 50mm to 30mm fan adaptor so I can try a larger fan on the heat sink and see if that helps with the jamming issues.

But then I think, why bother. 3mm prints fine. and fast. I can't see pumping that velocity of filament through a 1.75 extruder, the way I can with 3mm. But I guess people are fine with printing slow. *shrug*

Ah 3mm. the fan adaptor is printing beautifully and nicely. no muss no fuss. only to try and get back to 1.75 and jamming jamming jamming.

If it doesn't work you will see my 1.75 T-Glase for sale on the forum and I will switch to 3mm exclusively. enough wasting time and materials on trying to print with an inferior material size.
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby MileHigh3DII » 2014-Jan-Thu-22-Jan

It seems to me that PET has issues with kinking, just in general. I had PLA in my printer before switching to T-glase. I ran it at 195 for a bit to get as much PLA out and then ramped it up to 215 while pushing T-glase in by hand. I'd say the Tglase just wants to kink more than ABS.

On the pigtailing, just a difference of one turn on the screws on the filament holder was the difference between a pigtail in under 2 minutes and a 3 hour print running just fine. I wish there was a strain or tension gauge on the filament tension guide so it could be quantifies since it is such a finicky thing. T-glase and 648 are similar in that over tension distorts the filament and causes pigtails.
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby plexus » 2014-Jan-Fri-09-Jan

I also read that PETT is hard to extrude and generates a lot more back pressure. using a wider nozzle like 0.7mm helps. the author said anything smaller is basically not possible.

today i will try both a larger nozzle and less load tension.
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby MileHigh3DII » 2014-Jan-Fri-10-Jan

I would concur just from the feel of hand feeding it. ABS and PLA will feel like crap thru a goose, this not so much. I guess that is why the speeds are lower too. Plus the larger nozzles effect on optical pathways leading to better visual properties....

Maybe I need to half my speed and see what that does for the gloppyness.
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (Tusrdly-glase)

Postby DonaldJ » 2014-Jan-Fri-12-Jan

I believe Taulman recommends a nozzle size from .7mm to 1mm, and an absurdly slow print speed: 10mm/sec. Their website has much more info and some work-arounds for smaller nozzles.

Had a chance to play with the T-Glase last night at the hackerspace. Using the 1mm nozzle and .7mm layer height the results were good, as long as the first layer was done properly. Very good layer adhesion and easy to remove the part from the glass/hairspray build plate. Smaller parts will require cooling with a fan.

But slow... Tried increasing the speed, but over 20mm/sec the optical clarity degrades; layer adhesion was still good.

The part felt very strong, but we did not test it to destruction.

It's an interesting material, and had no issues with printing . But the slow speeds and the fat nozzle requirement kill the deal for me.
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby plexus » 2014-Jan-Fri-18-Jan

Got it! your nozzle size suggestion is a good one. it was actually mentioned in the reprap forum among my complaining about this. I didnt even think to switch nozzles which is dumb of me. of course. I was thinking it was something around filament feed mechanics. but back pressure is an aspect of that.

With a 0.6mm nozzle I am printing. I am actually printing a cat in blue t-glase at 200um layers, hollow! it looks gorgeous!

thanks for the tips!
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby DonaldJ » 2014-Jan-Fri-21-Jan

What speed and temperature are you using?

It appeared that speeds higher than 20mm/sec made the part look a little less clear, almost frosty. We kept the temperaure in the 212-220C range.
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby plexus » 2014-Jan-Fri-23-Jan

DonaldJ wrote:What speed and temperature are you using?

It appeared that speeds higher than 20mm/sec made the part look a little less clear, almost frosty. We kept the temperaure in the 212-220C range.
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby DonaldJ » 2014-Jan-Sat-01-Jan

And those speeds and temperatures were...?

Oh, very nice looking prints! Spooky, with the proper lighting.
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby plexus » 2014-Jan-Sun-11-Jan

in the 20-30mm/s range at 230C set which is about 240C real. i could have printed cooler but was too lazy.
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby strantor » 2014-Jan-Sun-23-Jan

How readily does t-glase suck all the moisture out of the room? Do I need to store it in a welding rod dryer like Nylon or what?
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby JonS » 2014-Jan-Sun-23-Jan

No T-Glase doesn't absorb moisture like nylon. It doesn't need baking before use.
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby holmes4 » 2014-Jan-Fri-20-Jan

Just got a pound of the blue T-Glase and tried it with a simple .5mm wall box. Very nice - stuck well to the glass but came loose later, great layer adhesion and it seems quite strong. I could get to like this stuff.
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby strantor » 2014-Feb-Mon-21-Feb

drawcut wrote: None of this is scientific, just going by feel so far. It's stronger than ABS with great layer bonding - more similar to nylon. But it's stiffer than nylon - closer to ABS in that respect.


Yep, as long as you have good layer adhesion. The numbers agree. Actually ABS did outperform it a couple of times, but that's probably due to my T-Glase noobness. I have created a thread on reprap.org where I am posting test results, including t-glase. It might interest you.
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby RetireeJay » 2014-Feb-Mon-22-Feb

I agree with another of your commenters on the RepRap forum about using dog-bones, at least for the tensile test.

Your tensile test part failed at the point where force was being applied. That's not the most reproducible place to have the failure. With a dog-bone shape you can guarantee failure at a location that is far removed from the possible uncertainties in the attachment.
TensileTestDogBone.PNG


I was imagining using a piece with a rather small cross-section at the point of failure, to reduce the absolute amount of force required.
By doing this, I could simply hang a bucket from the test piece and pour water into the bucket. I can measure the water going in, or even measure it after failure to see how much weight I have applied. Obviously, I want to keep my failure below 10 or 20 pounds, but if I know the area of the cross-section I can extrapolate to the strength of larger objects. (Probably larger ones will be somewhat stronger due to the lower ratio of perimeter to cross-section area).

My cross-section at the narrowest point would be square.

It will definitely be a challenge to build this piece with the long dimension in the Z axis. It will absolutely require some kind of support - like building 4 of them at a time in the form of a square, but with interior walls also to support them when the cross section gets narrow. I haven't figured that out yet. Have not built any of these; just a concept. Got lots of other things vying for my time. :D
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby wingedpower » 2014-Feb-Sat-14-Feb

Just started a test print of K9 from Dr. Who(The K9 MK II from Thingiverse has become my "benchmark" object due to detail difficulties of the overhang head/tail sections, but nice since it has a big flat base to build on).

I took a slice gcode file I made for the K9 MK II optimized for PLA printing and tried printing. Here are my attempts and results:

Setup:
- PrintrBot Simple V2 (1.75mm Ubis ceramic head, 0.4mm, or is it 0.35mm?)
- Fan+heatsink on extruder motor
- only z-axis upgraded
- print bed: 6x8" bathroom tile from Home Depot with Blue painters tape (man I love this combo!)
- 1.75mm Taulmann T-Glase filament
- layer thickness 0.2mm
- extrusion width: 0.4mm
- skin thickness: 0.8mm
- infill density: 20%
- fill/perimeter overlap: 0.25 (percentage)
- Perimeter Speed: 10 mm/sec
- Solid Speed: 18.75 mm/sec
- Sparse speed: 32.50 mm/sec

The bed is not heated. It's a cold bathroom tile.

1st: 200 degrees 1st layer, 185 degrees followup layers. Result: fail. Okay adhesion to tape, but all layers after that would shard/splinter off. :( Aborted after 2 layers.

2nd: 210 degrees for 1st and all subsequent layers. Result: great adhesion to the blue tape! All layers printing and fusing great!
EDIT: The object is printing out a beautiful frosted white. The print is rock solid.

Note, the spools that are sent are tiny! The filament wants to explode all over the place. :( I used the black netting as a filament/spool retainer(poled spool rod through mesh on one side, wrapped around spool, poked through other side, making sure it's got a bit of a "hug". When filament is pulled, it will run up against the mesh and the mesh will hold the filament against the spool, not letting it spill all over the place.

EDIT: Photos added.

image.jpeg


image (1).jpeg


image (2).jpeg


image (3).jpeg


image (4).jpeg


The print popped off of the blue tape cleanly. Though there was some lifting in the corners. Slight stringing in the corners and overhang areas. But a nice clean print and beside the temp difference for printing, printed more or less like PLA.

So far, I like the PET/T-glase from Taulmann.
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Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby plexus » 2014-Feb-Tue-11-Feb

try printing it wit out infill! and ideally 1 layer loop. the optical qualities if t-glase are really nice when printed this way
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby wingedpower » 2014-Feb-Wed-00-Feb

Just tried it out. Okay, that's pretty cool. :)

10mm cube printed using vase option.

photo 1 (5).JPG


photo 2 (5).JPG
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby holmes4 » 2014-Feb-Wed-20-Feb

My first "real" print with T-Glase. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:45765

Image

Image

I may experiment with different layer heights. This one is pretty crude.
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby RetireeJay » 2014-Apr-Mon-15-Apr

Now I have a much larger sample of T-Glase so I've been able to optimize my settings some. For the work that I'm doing, I very much appreciate the fact that T-Glase objects don't absorb water and warp the way that nylon objects do. (My "toys" actually come into contact with water.) It's much more rigid than nylon, and with its low thermal coefficient of expansion, I've gotten parts with absolutely the flattest bases that I've ever printed.

Personally, I didn't have much luck with bare glass, but glass with glue stick works just great. I have the bed heated to 70C. I see the same thing that Plexus mentioned: if I try to remove the part from the bed while it's at 70C, the part is kinda like putty. I have to wait for it to cool a bit before removing the part. I guess 40C is good enough; I haven't really tested that.

INTER_LAYER ADHESION: This can be a little tricky. I finally got around to measuring my incoming "3mm" filament and found that it's only 2.78mm! That's a pretty substantial drop - so until I corrected for that, I was under-extruding. T-Glase likes to have a good firm pressure between the new material being laid down and the old material on the previous or adjacent trace. If there's not enough pressure, it won't properly weld itself to the adjacent traces. In fact, right now my Slic3r setting is 2.75mm diameter and an Extrusion Multiplier of 1.12. My extruder is set to 230C. At these settings, my parts are very solid.

COOLING: Some parts may need cooling and / or slower speeds to print properly. My Slic3r print speed is 50mm/sec, and most parts come out fine. But when I tried a small cylindrical spiral vase, the walls of the vase were not cooling enough to achieve any rigidity. The new traces pulled the walls toward the center until there was no wall at all, just a glob of plastic growing in the center of the piece. So then I tried using the Feedrate slider in Repetier to reduce the print speed to 50%, or 25mm/sec, and also turned on an extruder-mounted fan. The result is shown in the bottom half of the right-hand object in the picture below: the first half of the cylinder printed perfectly. Then, just to see what would happen, I turned off the fan. As you can see, the quality immediately deteriorated to junk status. So the bottom line is for small parts that print with short layer times, you really need to apply all the tricks: lowest extrusion temperature practical, slow print speed, fan, and of course duplicate objects.

T-Glase Cylinders in Vase Mode.jpg


OOZE AND RETRACTION: T-Glase is much nicer than nylon in this respect. I have not done extensive experimentation, but I seem to be getting pretty good results with Retraction set to 0.5mm (at the maximum possible retract speed), with "wipe while retracting" turned on.
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby MileHigh3DII » 2014-Aug-Tue-02-Aug

Nice Stuff. Just got my clear finally working thru a just installed 0.8mm hot end. About 215C with a bed temp of 80 gave me pretty good adhesion and clarity.

Amazing how fast a vase grows at 0.8mm layers!!! Strong too, good adhesion between layers and pretty stiff a bit of flex with the vase.

It oozes like a kid with head cold.

Want to make a business card holder with it. That should be interesting.
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby TutherJay » 2015-May-Mon-13-May

Wow! FINALLY I got around to trying what all you big guys been raving about, and I must say - it's EVERY BIT as cool as it's been touted to be!!!! (not that I doubted y'all, to borrow an odd word, but WOW!!!!!)

So I had drawn this up and intended to print it in BluPrint, but by the time I had done all the temp-crucial parts it didn't look like I had enough left for this thing - so I resliced it for tglase and threw in my 1st spool and let her rip! Honestly, no trial NUTHIN - just loaded it and ran it at the suggested settings: 45 degree bed of glue on glass, 245 first layer, 242 rest, .6 nozzle, .4 layers, no cooling fan. Unbelievably clean stuff!!!!

So - my ONLY PROBLEM with it -

Slic2r generated support, as I directed, of course, but: NOW HOW DO I GET THE SUPPORT MATERIAL OFF without breaking things? I mean, this stuff be STUCK and STRONG!! Unlike other support material I'm accustomed to, this seems to think it's part of the part! Looks like mototool time to me - sure don't wish to break the little detail stuff that it's fused to (not the big window - that's pretty straight-forward.

Anyway, this is to mount my gear head extruder and e3d v5 w/ volcano and redirect the e3d's cooling fan exhaust on up toward the extruder motor. Since I had to start amping up that motor to get it to quit skipping steps w/ the gear head extruder arrangement, I've discovered that finding the happy medium sometimes gets the motor warmer than my v2 of the GHE done in PLA couldn't stand the heat in the kitchen. Shoulda read more before taking the word of some unknown entity on ewe toob that the Pboard pots needed ????1.45 volts????? Ha ha ha ha! Burn me once....

Anyway, I digress. Back on-track: tglase is so easy it may make me LAZY!!!! BluPrint was interesting, but I went through an entire spool and never could figure out a temp that worked. Weird stuff. Ridiculous strength specs, and I needed that for something, but I'm gonna print a couple spares w/ this tglase just for kix (bearing carrier in my china-built massage chair - been its achilles heel from the start - so it's been a saga - but if the BluPrint parts break again I'll try this pretty OTHER blue...)

Oh yeah - pix for kix:

IMG_20150504_101404.jpg

IMG_20150504_101353.jpg

IMG_20150504_101335.jpg

IMG_20150504_101325.jpg

IMG_20150504_101309.jpg
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby RetireeJay » 2015-May-Tue-10-May

Here are the support settings I've been using for T-Glase.
I don't know if you ever tried nylon, but in my experience T-Glase is an order of magnitude better for removal of support material. I never could get nylon support to break away; it had to be ripped, cut, torn, and mutilated to get it to reluctantly depart and leave a grungy rough ugly bottom surface.

T-Glase with mild fan cooling does great for bridging, so I have checked "Don't support bridges" and also increased the pattern spacing to 5mm (because at the top of the support, there's effectively a "bridge" and like I said, T-Glase does great at bridges).

Slic3r Support Settings.PNG
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby TutherJay » 2015-May-Tue-13-May

Thanks, Cuz

I'll check these against what I did have, and report back.

As for my wearing nylons, I cannot IMAGINE where you heard THAT! And clear over on tuther COAST???

Cereally, my only foray into that has been Bridge, which I would really LOVE to love, but alas, all 3 spools I've tried have been so grossly oversized (actually upwards of 2mm once) that I had to abandon my Bowden setup (for now) for long enough to finish a project for which Bridge is perfectly suited. Then I thought maybe the gear head extruder would help ram the stuff on through, whether it liked it or not, which (naturally, in accordance with Murphy's Law) introduced OTHER problems to resolve (the afore-mentioned trim pot adjusting).

Sidebar to that, thinking that one of the several little cooling fans that I had in my "stuff" might be applied to cool the E motor, using the original cooling fan power connector (right there and convenient) to see if said fans were viable -- apparently one was sufficiently toxic to knock out the fan power of the Pboard! Now it SOMETIMES causes the system to continually reboot upon powerup. Only sometimes! When it does, I have to go UNPLUG the fan from its power. Not surprisingly, I've no control now over that fan from software. Even on successful bootup without that glitch, there is NO response to fan controls from Repetier -- it's simply full-on, all the time. Fortunately, I came across Taulman's rec that almost NEVER does one need to blow on their materials. (I'm going: HUH??? Say WHAT? Oh - but that's CONVENIENT for me right now. OK!)

So I also thought that a Volcano upgrade might help get things moving, and that's cool and all, but certainly not just a plug-and-play upgrade! Firmware rebuild, lots of config to figure out, y'know. Upside: it gains back a little extra length that was a problem when trying to slug my E3D in place of the old UBIS - it being shorter making for clearance issues (which didn't bite Plexus, for why I'm STILL scratching my bald pate????)

'Nuf sidebarring. Back to Bridge -- one thing I HAD to try w/ one roll of it: tie-dyeing like RichRap does (though I think he was using 618). Worked OK, but the pattern thing only works for certain types of designs - like vases or bracelets or lampshades - things in vase mode w/ only one layer. Random color thing often falls down w/ multiple layers. But, thinking back, though I didn't notice before, I never tried anything that required support, else I might have been here whining about THAT ere THIS.

OK - this was going to be quick. All this rambling on - I could have gone and checked MY settings for comparison instead, rather than pretending I didn't have the time now. Clearly I wasn't REALLY prepared to jump into my next project: trying to integrate these new tglase parts, for real! Non-trivial! May be offline for awhile - sure hope I have everything ready. So maybe I'd bester go snag those sets and post immed.

OK

back in a flash...
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TutherJay
PrintRbot+ v2 built from kit, hatched Sept 9, 2013
PowerTower & RPi/OctoPrint kits added
Repetier/Slic3r mostly; sometimes RPi:OctoPrint
1.75mm via direct drive gear head extruder
(temporarily abandoning Bowden mod - Bridge wouldn't fit thru)
E3D v5 hotend w/ Volcano Eruption upgrade
Stock LC ply bed now adjusted by 3 points, not 4
6mm heated glass (non-borosilicate) (now missing divot from BluPrint adhering TOO well)
<sigh>
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TutherJay
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby TutherJay » 2015-May-Tue-14-May

OK - turns out that "Interface layers" are also different. Doubling the pattern spacing could conceivably make it easier to remove, but TTYTT I'm going to have to go read the slic2r doc to see what "interface layers = 0" does, compared to your 3.

Sawright -- a little light reading never hurt anyone.

Thanks again for sharing.

TJstGlaseSlic3rSets.PNG


gotta git

TTYL
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TutherJay
PrintRbot+ v2 built from kit, hatched Sept 9, 2013
PowerTower & RPi/OctoPrint kits added
Repetier/Slic3r mostly; sometimes RPi:OctoPrint
1.75mm via direct drive gear head extruder
(temporarily abandoning Bowden mod - Bridge wouldn't fit thru)
E3D v5 hotend w/ Volcano Eruption upgrade
Stock LC ply bed now adjusted by 3 points, not 4
6mm heated glass (non-borosilicate) (now missing divot from BluPrint adhering TOO well)
<sigh>
User avatar
TutherJay
Waiting for printbed temp...
 
Posts: 107
Joined: 2013-Sep-Fri-17-Sep
Reputation: 1

Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby TutherJay » 2015-Dec-Tue-13-Dec

Wow - reading through this old history makes me wonder if that was really ME reporting all this success in glowing terms, or someone taking my name in vain!?!?!? Pulled out the same blue TG for a badly needed part and went directly to taulman to check current rec's for best practices. Aimed at the 45 deg bed temp and 238 print temp, on spanking clean fresh new coat of PVA glue with meticulously leveled glass. Can NOT get adhesion to bed - got one to LOOK like it was going OK, only to come loose after about 35 layers - retried after wiping w/ ethanol, no go - retried after another fresh app of PVA, no go - if I keep fooling around I'm going to run out of TG before I can get this part made, oh joy and gladness!

Going to have to reread my gcode and see if anything jumps out at me. Had been so long since I suffered the abuse of dealing with this time-waster that I had to reinstall repetier on this machine, so perhaps something ain't yet right. Laptop I used to use is temporarily indesposed so I can't use that. Even burned my RPi/Octoprint when the wife needed an SD card for some emergency-like photo op.

Back to thinking I should have taken up woodcarving instead - think how good I'd be if I'd invested all this time there (and money in exotic woods)!

I so LOVE tools - tools that work. Conversely, I find tools that DON'T work to be one of my foremost pet peeves!

Then there's the secondary annoyance that the camera of my phone seems to be dying, or I'd show and tell. Vid I got ain't worth posting! Oh well....

Perhaps I should try to show one of MY vase attempts - came out looking approximately correct, but so HOLEY that it can scarcely hold AIR - certainly won't hold WATER! OK for a pencil holder, I guess.

Back to head-scratchin

jm
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TutherJay
PrintRbot+ v2 built from kit, hatched Sept 9, 2013
PowerTower & RPi/OctoPrint kits added
Repetier/Slic3r mostly; sometimes RPi:OctoPrint
1.75mm via direct drive gear head extruder
(temporarily abandoning Bowden mod - Bridge wouldn't fit thru)
E3D v5 hotend w/ Volcano Eruption upgrade
Stock LC ply bed now adjusted by 3 points, not 4
6mm heated glass (non-borosilicate) (now missing divot from BluPrint adhering TOO well)
<sigh>
User avatar
TutherJay
Waiting for printbed temp...
 
Posts: 107
Joined: 2013-Sep-Fri-17-Sep
Reputation: 1

Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby RetireeJay » 2015-Dec-Tue-14-Dec

Hmmm... Clean glass, carefully leveled, fresh coat of PVA, bed at 45, extruder at 238... This all sounds really good. But have you had the printer in storage so long that you forgot about the nozzle-to-bed clearance? That seems to be the one ingredient missing from your tale of woe. As you surely remember, the right amount of "smoosh" is critical for good adhesion.

Just FWIW, I'm printing T-Glase right now on clean glass, carefully leveled, with a fresh coat of what I assume resembles PVA (Scotch Craft Stick), but my bed is at 70C. For months and months I'd been printing with a Ubis at 230C.

But recently I started to get fails, so in the process of debugging/troubleshooting I installed my E3D V5 in place of the Ubis. I can say this with certainty: the E3D resists the flow of T-Glase MUCH more than the Ubis. I have the temperature cranked up to 245C, and I'm running the printer about 2/3 as fast as I used to run it with the Ubis. (Plexus had a post about TG saying that it was more viscous and printed slower than other materials; maybe that's why people not using T-Glase seem to adore the E3D, while I am merely tolerating it at the moment.) Oh, and I'm also oiling the TG filament going in to the extruder. Using First Cold Pressing Extra Virgin Olive Oil from southern Spain, bottled in 2014 - nah, just kidding; it's plain generic food-grade oil. Anyway, where was I? Oh, yes -- one failure mode that you may have been experiencing in that holey vase is inconsistent feed through the extruder. In other words, sometimes it feeds the right amount, and other times it is under-extruding. That's why I spent all day yesterday tweaking the parameters for printing with the E3D - so I could get consistent extrusion.

-Jay
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
"My next printer is..." Prusa i3 MK3
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RetireeJay
My next printer is...
 
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Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby TutherJay » 2015-Dec-Tue-15-Dec

RetireeJay wrote:Hmmm... Clean glass, carefully leveled, fresh coat of PVA, bed at 45, extruder at 238... This all sounds really good. But have you had the printer in storage so long that you forgot about the nozzle-to-bed clearance? That seems to be the one ingredient missing from your tale of woe. As you surely remember, the right amount of "smoosh" is critical for good adhesion.


Nope - didn't forget. By far the biggest time-hog in my experience has been trying to get that nozzle height just right on a single sheet of paper. I dialed that in very carefully - in my thinking an integral part of bed levelling.

But - you're pointing out something that I scrutinized but didn't think was right - the "smoosh." This looks a LOT smaller than I should expect, not at all what I'd think it should be for a .5 mm layer height out of a .6 mm nozzle!


OIL??? Well, I'm glad I don't have to walk over to Dean&DuhLOOKa's for the top-shelf OO! Fact is, I'm half a block from an OO store that's been around for DECADES - and hosted hordes of the unending tourist flow through our little town.

I'll try to get pix - or if I got the RPi/OPrint back in gear it could document it for me as a matter of course!

Funny how easy it SEEMED to be at first - dunno how it eludes me now! So I clearly need to drop back and check all the config!

Take Caro

jm
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TutherJay
PrintRbot+ v2 built from kit, hatched Sept 9, 2013
PowerTower & RPi/OctoPrint kits added
Repetier/Slic3r mostly; sometimes RPi:OctoPrint
1.75mm via direct drive gear head extruder
(temporarily abandoning Bowden mod - Bridge wouldn't fit thru)
E3D v5 hotend w/ Volcano Eruption upgrade
Stock LC ply bed now adjusted by 3 points, not 4
6mm heated glass (non-borosilicate) (now missing divot from BluPrint adhering TOO well)
<sigh>
User avatar
TutherJay
Waiting for printbed temp...
 
Posts: 107
Joined: 2013-Sep-Fri-17-Sep
Reputation: 1

Re: Printing with Taulman PET (T-glase)

Postby TutherJay » 2015-Dec-Tue-20-Dec

Well, partial success to report (knock on wood) as I'm about half way through this part (45 of 94 layers, so far so good). Pushed 1st layer down at .4 instead of .5 and width of .8; 1st layer temp 243; wiped fresh PVA w/ ethanol; actually got 1st layer sticking so far - hope it holds thru completion!!! Better take a pic to prove it, I spoz.
  • 0

TutherJay
PrintRbot+ v2 built from kit, hatched Sept 9, 2013
PowerTower & RPi/OctoPrint kits added
Repetier/Slic3r mostly; sometimes RPi:OctoPrint
1.75mm via direct drive gear head extruder
(temporarily abandoning Bowden mod - Bridge wouldn't fit thru)
E3D v5 hotend w/ Volcano Eruption upgrade
Stock LC ply bed now adjusted by 3 points, not 4
6mm heated glass (non-borosilicate) (now missing divot from BluPrint adhering TOO well)
<sigh>
User avatar
TutherJay
Waiting for printbed temp...
 
Posts: 107
Joined: 2013-Sep-Fri-17-Sep
Reputation: 1


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