Mooselake wrote:Update - acetone doesn't touch it. Know of any solvents that you'd have/want to use at home that will dissolve nylon? Not so sure I'd want strong acids sitting around...
Mooselake wrote:Thanks! I've got some muriatic acid from a tile job that might work.
plexus wrote:That is diluted hydrochloric acid. not sure if that would work. it would be nice to find a non-acid that is common, not too harmful that is a solvent.
holmes4 wrote:plexus wrote:That is diluted hydrochloric acid. not sure if that would work. it would be nice to find a non-acid that is common, not too harmful that is a solvent.
I think dihydrogen monoxide would meet that definition, though I don't think it works on nylon. It's typically harmful only if inhaled in large quantities.
well I print on cardboard because it is stiff, so it can't warp with the nylon parts, and because the nylon sticks like glue to it. I printed on blue tape before, but that kept peeling due to the high bed temp requirements, and making the parts warp. The nylon did stick very well to it though. Printing small gears shouldn't have a problem printing on blue tape since there is much less warp.
drawcut wrote:Anyone know of a good glue for Nylon 618? ABS is easy with Acetone but Nylon 618 seems very resistant to most chemicals and has a very slick surface. I'm looking for something good for structural strength without distortion.
halley wrote:What, you don't have two part epoxy lying around!?
Mooselake wrote:halley wrote:drawcut wrote:What, you don't have two part epoxy lying around!?
Curb your tonge, knave. Anybody here that doesn't have any epoxy either just ran out, or wouldn't admit it
I recommend the little two tube thingies for casual use, get two or three. Even though they cost a bit more you don't loose as much if you put the cap on backward and it hardens in a couple days. Not that I know how that would happen...
I've used the plastic mender version, although not on nylon. It works well to fix stuff at home.
drawcut wrote: For the record, of course I have 2 part epoxy around. Just looking for anybody with direct experience gluing the Nylon 618.
plexus wrote:Mooselake wrote:Ehow says a hot glue gun, fwiw.
what whinnie the pooh character is that???
plexus wrote:ok i got my hands on a sample of 645 but its 1.75mm. from reading some threads on the forum it sounds like i *might* be able to run the 1.75mm through my 3mm extruder. probably have to do it slowly. has anyone tried this? i was looking for some appropriate tubing i could put in the hot end opening to take up the extra radial space but so far no luck.
drawcut wrote:FWIW, I just noticed this on Taulman's site:
"Nothing bonds to 618. To adhere other parts to 618, they must also be made of 618 and bonded with a heat gun or soldering iron."
"Can I glue my 618 parts together?
The short answer is No. It is similar to trying to glue non-stick Teflon to non-stick Teflon.
We use a 20-40 watt soldering iron for melting part edges to each other."
drodgers wrote:I've just written up my experiences (and slic3r settings) with 618 (including some great results from using RetireeJay's no-retraction solution): http://www.elegantalmosteverywhere.com/ ... nylon.html
drawcut wrote:I have some canvas but I haven't tried it yet. I'm not thrilled with having to glue it down to a substrate. Seems like a bit of extra work and cost for the canvas + glue + board when there are options that work with just board only.
I'll be giving it a try and reporting what I find.
RetireeJay wrote: I think that canvas from an art store would be an entirely different beast.
drawcut wrote:That's about what I'm thinking of doing. But how does it have a full extruder if you just let it drool for a while?
RetireeJay wrote:My latest fix for pre-print drooling is to raise the z position to +20 or 30mm, and just to let it drool. I'm hoping for a thread to come out, not a balled-up tangle. Then, after I click "Print" and the head starts to move toward the center area of the bed, it's dragging this thread behind it. Just before the head touches down in Z, I grab the thread and pull it away. So the print starts with almost no "baggage," and a full extruder.
RetireeJay wrote:Copied from another post, not edited specifically for your question but I think it gives you the answer...
Check your Slic3r configuration, under the tab "Printer Settings." You may have some G-code in there that forces the printer to wait for the hot end and/or heated bed to reach temperature. You can find full documentation on G-code at http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code. In Slic3r configuration, be sure your G-code flavor is RepRap (Marlin/Sprinter)
M104 sets the extruder temperature and does NOT wait
M109 sets the extruder temperature and DOES wait
M116 makes the printer wait for all temperatures (bed and hot end) to reach setpoint.
Check to be sure your Slic3r configuration "Filament Settings" to be sure it is not calling for bed heat (you can safely set the setpoint to zero).
If you have a temperature change, i.e. you print the first layer at a different temp than following layers, be sure you are NOT using M109 and M116.
drawcut wrote:I got the Taulman 645 nylon 1.75 mm working now (after some jamming issues). I am liking this stuff better than the 618 in 3mm. I have been able to get very good prints using 5mm retraction instead of the 'just print fast' method. This has worked better for me with less stringing. I'm not positive which change is the reason for this but the suspects are: The 645 chemistry, the change to 1.75mm filament, or maybe that I was able to dry out the 645 more by baking it at 180F for 30 mins. (The 618 I got was in the 'clamshell' container. A quick test of that plastic showed that it was not going to survive the oven.) Going to try to weed through all the variables to see what is behind this.
drawcut wrote:Glue stick on Kapton huh? I'll have to try that. Been using Garolite CE mostly. I do like being able to print without heating the bed.
RetireeJay wrote:I'd love to hear about others' experience - or solutions - with nylon.
mothy wrote:as soon as I hit 250 the hot end shuts off and slowly cools down to zero. Is this a safety that is hard coded into the machine?
plexus wrote:Oh and I did raise the hotend temp limit to 375C so I could print at whatever temp I wanted. My first Ubis PEEK got slightly melted and the heat break bent to the side a little. I've replaced it with another Ubis. but the Ubis design won't work reliably for ongoing >250C printing sadly. If you print nylon you might want to consider an all metal design.
mothy wrote:Here is my hot end. Should I pull the thermistor out and put it closer to the hot end like on yours?
RetireeJay wrote:As I said before, Yes, there is a safety cutoff at 250C; you are not imagining it.
I'm starting to wonder if the location of the thermistor is critical. If it's measuring the heater more than the heated tube, then it could be mis-representing the temperature as higher than it should.
The thermistor is held in place simply by being wrapped with Teflon tape. So it's possible that the position of the thermistor gets displaced when you do work on the 'bot, or it's possible that it wasn't exactly in the right place to begin with.
Here's a picture with all the Teflon tape removed. The large white ceramic cylinder contains the Nichrome wire heating element, which is inside the cylinder adjacent to the brass threaded tube. The little glass bead with the white-insulated leads (and the little orange parentheses inside) is the thermistor. My theory is that if the thermistor is touching the ceramic cylinder and not touching the brass tube then it may be reading a higher temperature than it would if it were slightly insulated from the brass tube (by Teflon tape) and intimately touching the brass tube. Maybe even some thermal grease to facilitate contact with the brass tube would be a good idea.
It's not too difficult to work on this - but don't disturb the position of the ceramic cylinder because it's easy to break the nichrome wire.
daewootech wrote:i should have a whole bunch of art supplies in my garage from college, there should be a few sheets of canvas down there hopefully.
Bob-StPaul wrote:I've had good luck recently with printing nylon (618) onto glass (cheap double strength from hardware store) with glue stick (elmer's - goes on purple dries clear) and printing at room temp - which is about 68F or less this time of year...
RetireeJay wrote:daewootech wrote:i should have a whole bunch of art supplies in my garage from college, there should be a few sheets of canvas down there hopefully.
I think the canvas used for paintings (art-supply canvas) tends to be "filled" with something. The canvas I used was from a fabric store, just cloth. Based on subsequent experience, even a finer-weave cloth would probably work fine, such as muslin.
But I have also had pretty good luck printing nylon onto glass coated with Glue Stick at 80C (true temperature; equivalent to a setting of 55C on older Printrbots not using the Unified software).
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