T-Glase and Laywood

Talk about materials used in 3D printing

T-Glase and Laywood

Postby New Passion » 2015-Sep-Thu-17-Sep

Well, I finally ordered some T-glase... Clear and Red, and .25kg of Laywood, I am not sure about the wood, but I am ready to try something different than PLA. The T-glase interest me the most. If anyone has some tips on printing this I would love to hear them. I have searched the post on here, but I am sure I have not found them all. I know Retireejay prints with T-glase all the time, and I have been searching for any info he may have posted. I would appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks
Mark
  • 0

New Passion
Waiting for printbed temp...
 
Posts: 102
Joined: 2014-Nov-Sun-17-Nov
Reputation: 1

T-Glase and Laywood

Sponsor

Sponsor
 

Re: T-Glase and Laywood

Postby RetireeJay » 2015-Sep-Thu-21-Sep

Some info in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=16&t=10268&p=66285

I have my hot end (old-style Ubis) at 230, and the bed at 70. Note that I need to cool the upper body of the Ubis to prevent the T-Glase from softening and kinking.

I'm printing at 50mm/sec. With my Ubis, I have retraction set at 1.5mm, and no Z lift. Travel moves are at 200mm/sec to reduce ooze and threading.

Every time I start a new spool, I measure the filament diameter by cutting off three 20mm pieces and measuring them with my digital caliper (using the knife-edge part of the jaws). Rotating the samples, I measure the largest and smallest diameters of each piece, and average the six readings to get the effective average diameter of the filament. I feed this number into my slicing program. My extruder is well calibrated to deliver 50mm when asked, so my Extrusion Multiplier can be 1.0.

When I'm printing something long, especially if it has relatively sharp corners, I find it helpful to add a one-layer thick "brim" to the design. For a piece 175mm long, this can be as much as 12mm wide surrounding the ends and sharp points - but it isn't needed at all in the middle.

Getting the head - bed clearance correct is critical. If you're too low, you end up with the head plowing through previously laid down plastic for two or three layers (or you block the extrusion entirely); if you're too high, you don't get enough bed adhesion.
  • 0

Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
User avatar
RetireeJay
My next printer is...
 
Posts: 4776
Joined: 2013-Jan-Wed-13-Jan
Location: Greenville, SC
Reputation: 477

Re: T-Glase and Laywood

Postby New Passion » 2015-Sep-Thu-21-Sep

Thanks Retireejay, that's the info I was looking for, I just couldn't find it. I have not received my filament yet, but one more question, I currently use a spool holder on my desk with roller bearings, I think I read somewhere about not removing the net that is wrapped around the spool, and I am sure the netting will interfere with the rollers. Do you use a spool holder on top of your printer and feed from the top. Thanks for the quick response.

Mark
  • 0

New Passion
Waiting for printbed temp...
 
Posts: 102
Joined: 2014-Nov-Sun-17-Nov
Reputation: 1

Re: T-Glase and Laywood

Postby RetireeJay » 2015-Sep-Fri-05-Sep

Oh, I absolutely remove the netting. The spools provided by Taulman3D have changed, but the basic layout of my spool holder is shown in one of the Thingiverse pictures referenced in this old thread. I don't use any special hub insert or bearing; I just stick the rod through the center hole in the spool. I do have a couple of disks of cardboard on either side of the spool to help prevent the filament from hopping off the spool and riding on the rod.
  • 0

Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
User avatar
RetireeJay
My next printer is...
 
Posts: 4776
Joined: 2013-Jan-Wed-13-Jan
Location: Greenville, SC
Reputation: 477

Re: T-Glase and Laywood

Postby New Passion » 2015-Sep-Fri-11-Sep

Well, Thanks again. I still use my old ubis hot end as well. (I guess I just like this hot end) I think I am all set, I'll probably look around thingiverse for a fan mount for the upper part of the ubis. I am looking at the printer and I think I might be able to use one of the screws in the front of the metal y axis cover, and come up with some way of mounting a fan, I have a couple extra 40mm fans.


Mark
  • 0

New Passion
Waiting for printbed temp...
 
Posts: 102
Joined: 2014-Nov-Sun-17-Nov
Reputation: 1

Re: T-Glase and Laywood

Postby Snamellit » 2015-Sep-Tue-13-Sep

To prevent the buckling of the filament I glued a spare Graphics Card Cooler on the extruder motor. I found it was running hot and heating the drive wheel and the metal extruder part. With the cooler it barely rises above room temperature and and the top of the ubi gets cooled due to the connection with the metal extruder.
This solved my problems with buckling filament. [img]http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/29/bd9d8da2b6baec383880740512efccd5.jpg[/img]
  • 0

Snamellit
Waiting to connect to printer...
 
Posts: 9
Joined: 2014-Mar-Sat-14-Mar
Reputation: 1

Re: T-Glase and Laywood

Postby New Passion » 2015-Sep-Wed-11-Sep

I found a fan mount on thingiverse I am going to use, here is the link if anyone else is interested http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:548178 . I have still not received my T-Glase, there was a delay in shipping, they said, I should get it by Friday. I have my fan mounted, I just have to wire it up. I am still finishing a print for my wife for Halloween in PLA. Snamelit, that looks like a "cool" setup, I like the heatsink and fan combo. I have a heatsink from a motor shield for an arduino add on. I was thinking of epoxying to the top of my extruder motor also, but It is kinda small and I am not sure how well the epoxy would hold. I think I'll just try the fan setup first and If I need more I'll try the heatsink.


Edit: I just finished wiring my fan, now I just need my T-Glase.
  • 0

New Passion
Waiting for printbed temp...
 
Posts: 102
Joined: 2014-Nov-Sun-17-Nov
Reputation: 1


Return to Material talk

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest