Cranking Parts

Talk about things - things to make, things you made

Cranking Parts

Postby Jack Crow » 2017-Apr-Sat-09-Apr

Hi all,
I use my printerbot mostly for making parts.

Modifying existing electronic things for new abilities is one of my fun projects.

Power Supplys are an easy target.
Some time back I got turned on to these small volt / amp meters made by DROK.
I use them to replace analog meters on some products.

In ham radio we tend to use some big power supplys by a company called ASTRON.
Astron's front panel meters are a unique size and nothing in the aftermarket fits.

I use the Printerbot to make what I call a 'window adapter'.
Part of it fits the hole in the Astron, and part of it fits the Drok.
See the first photo.

I also have two of these HP 6253A dual power supplys.
One I keep at home and the other I use at the day job.
Same kind of deal.
Analog meters that are unique to HP.
In this case the holes were smaller and getting it all to fit took a little bit of extra work.

If you have time, share a thought.

Jack Crow aka Radio Mike in Virginia Beach VA.
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Re: Cranking Parts

Postby Mooselake » 2017-Apr-Sat-15-Apr

Hi, Jack! Welcome to the forum.

I have several of those Drok meters stashed in the moosecave, bought for projects that haven't percolated up the spare parts list. Time to think about them again...

Kirk, KC8MMU
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Re: Cranking Parts

Postby Jack Crow » 2017-Apr-Sat-17-Apr

Greetings Kirk,
Like the avatar.

The Drok meters are handy for a lot of things, just don't fit well in most holes. So the adapters come in handy.

Showed some items at the last RASON club meeting.
One silly item was a little holder to panel mount an Anderson Power Pole connectors.

That morphed into "can you make" discussion of...

One that fits in a 'go box'.
Neat idea.
Since most people have hole saws, need to pick a size and mount a number of these onto a disk that can flush mount on the side of the case.
How thick to make the disk and flange is an open question.

Got into 3d printing about ten years ago.

Was working at the NRL and we were using 3D print tech to make explosives holders for high voltage electronic weapons applications.
Seems high voltage power supply's don't work well in the mid east due to heat and dust.
An explosively driven generator would be the ticket.
I used to keep 'inert' blasting caps on my desk and when visitors would come by, some would recognize the item.
I would take the inert cap and bang it on the desk just to see if they flinch.

Have a screwy idea of fun.

Was going to attach a photo of a 'nose peice' to adapt a Bitx 40 radio to an old Midland LMR housing.
Made two for the guys here on simplex who purchased the kit.
The system got snooty and asked me to remove it.
Perhaps some day.

Bad news.
Learning, dealing with the Z probe / transistor issue.
The posts about that were most helpful. Parts on order.
So need to wait while people take my money and put parts into the shipping system.

That's my excuse and Im sticking to it.

Jack Crow aka Radio Mike in VB
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Re: Cranking Parts

Postby Jack Crow » 2017-May-Sun-14-May

Hi again,
Some follow ups.
After getting the printer working again (many thanks to the team here), Im back to making parts.

5-7-2017 004.JPG


Guys here in the ham radio emergency management area like to have external power jacks on their 'Go Boxes' to plug in additional low voltage things.
Was noodeling around with ideas. This is the most silly so far.

5-7-2017 005.JPG


It fits in a two inch hole with an external flange for mounting.

It has a DPDT switch mounted so that only a finger nail can flip it, this is to prevent damage to the switch during rough handling.
As you can imagine it can be configured any number of ways, this seemed the most simple for demo reasons.

The meter I used is an old one and I can't find it on Amazon any more.

The design has a lot of flexibility.
The hole the meter fits can change in a number of different ways to accept other meters.
While keeping the features of the two Anderson Power pole sockets and switch the same.

Share a thought as time permits.
Jack Crow aka Radio Mike
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Re: Cranking Parts

Postby Mooselake » 2017-May-Mon-09-May

Nice looking panel, you should post it on Thingiverse, or one of the alternate sites if you're worried about the Makerbot's going to steal all our stuff brew-ha-ha.

You can find those two wire self-powered meters all over eBay, and probably Amazon too, couple bucks or less apiece. I get them 5 (or so) at a time just to have on hand. Good only for around 3 to 30VDC, but that covers an awful lot of sins.

My dink with it occasionally list has fused powerpole panel (darned if I'll pay somebody $100 for them, should have bought a Saratoga before they folded). Crimp on spade terminals for ATC fuse holders (not the best but had em already), #10 stranded for buss wires, optional space for one of those meters. The wire doesn't quite fit (maybe I should just make the slots way to big and hot-glue em) and it's currently passed out of the ADD list. Getting the Hamper (more) ready (if I outgrow this darned 10# post-surgical lift restriction) for FD might dredge it back up again.

I somehow inherited the local weekly ARES net control, musta missed the meeting about 10 years back, although the new head-honcho county ARES guy is making an effort to put his stamp on it. Usual thing, for many years nobody wanted to take a night but there were bitter complaints if I dozed off or got distracted and missed the 9PM start time. Currently net station is an AT-5888UV dualbander (FT-1900 backup) with a $50 WallyWorld Tram base antenna stuck on 20' of 1" conduit up in the attic bedroom, need to open the window and haul in the coax to connect it. TT Corsair on the shelf near it, really need to run a wire over the orchard and drill some thru-bulkhead holes in the dormer wall...

Kirk
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Re: Cranking Parts

Postby Jack Crow » 2017-May-Wed-21-May

K,
Not much of a station here. I run converted commercial radios.
They are cheap and very rugged. If I kill one, no great loss.
Think I spent $50 on the most expensive one.

In the car I have Midland XTR's on 2(40 watts) and 440 (30 watts). 99 channel wafers and rebuilt PL boards.
Also have a Midland SY1 for 10 FM. (50 watts)
A converted Maxon 4150 for APRS. (40 watts)
Check out my KA2ZEV-8 some time.
Have photo articles on how most of it is made if you want to see the details.

In the apartment here got two more Maxon's one on VHF and one on UHF.
For the most part they just scan waiting for someone to transmit.
This part of Virginia Beach is fly over country.

Nothing of any import happens here.

Have the usual assortment of Wouxun hand helds 6M&2 ,UHF and 2M, 220 and 2m dual banders.
Plus a stray Beaofang I use when walking the pugs.

This was a re tasking of a midland chassis and the Bitx 40 7mhz ssb radio. Plus a printed new nose.

4-2-2017 103.JPG


Working on a 40M loop antenna project, more plastic parts to support that.

I seem to have no luck with this Printerbot.

The Y Belt failed again, not surprise I have been running the heck out of it since the z probe issue got fixed.

The prior posts here were most useful in last nights joyous screw up.

Got that belt replaced and the USB jack failed, can't establish anything but the most erratic connection.
What did Bill Lear once say?
"There's only one thing worse than an intermittent, that's an intermittent intermittent."
That is what I had. After the failure, only once in a while would the computer connect to it, then rapidly drop out.

Second board related failure in 30 days. Not cool.

Took it into work where I fix hand held commercial radios. All smt rework.
Put it under the microscope and touched up the connection's with fresh flux and solder.
At least they look great. The effect? No change.
I must have broken something either in or under the USB socket.

Looked up the connectors.

When I get paid will order some, and a second board with the more rugged USB jack. The F6 rev I think they call it.
Will order some spare connectors.
Remove the parts that can melt.
Use the hot tool to remove the failed connector and replace it.
The idea of having a spare board around lately has become very appealing.

As we all know, once we have a spare, the thing will stop failing.
The fancy name is Preemptive Karma.

Enough of this.

That super fragile USB was a poor selection on the part of the OEM.
Used great care and still managed to break the thing.
I don't want to be 'down' due to a parts hold.

So Im stuck for a while.

Back to being grumpy.

Be well there.
Jack Crow aka Radio Mike
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Re: Cranking Parts

Postby Mooselake » 2017-May-Thu-10-May

The microUSB craze was either a royal pain, or sales bonanza for PB. Mine had to be resoldered, even with an extension cable, but it's held up well since then. I hear they fail a lot in phones, too, but having your phone fall into a foot deep ditch kinda precluded that with my phone. The replacement (G5+) arrived FedEx from China yesterday...

The Anytone is the only Chinese branded radio here, the rest are either Japanese names likely made in China or US made Ten-Tecs. I keep thinking I should get something like a UX-5<something> but the VX-150 just keeps chugging along. Hasn't made it into a puddle yet. Maybe I should talk to you offline about my only wants to squeal VX-400 - bought with my first EMS paycheck about 2000 or so - that died a year or so ago.

Was it your belt that failed in the other topic? Seems like these things go in waves, although it might be bringing it up encourages others with the same problem to post. Not too hard to replace, but see the previous comments on belt quality. Or just buy a spare :)

I've noticed the spare part effect, too. In a past life I worked for an independent telco which had a mandatory spare rule - expensive when you're talking Cisco routers or SparcStations. Pretty much all of them never got used, although as time went on they got upgraded and the old one became the spare.

Kirk
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