3Dbenchy behind expectations (Simple Metal with heated bed)

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3Dbenchy behind expectations (Simple Metal with heated bed)

Postby tomulinek » 2015-May-Thu-16-May

I have finished my Simple Metal Kit (rev. F) with heated bed and after callibration there is a time for 3Dbenchy test. But as you can see, I fight with some overhangs and inaccuracy. :?:

3Dbenchy ratio: 67% of original model via Cura 15.04
PLA: 190 °C (Fillamentum 190–210 °C with same results)
Heated bed: 70 °C
Layers: 0.2 mm
Shell: 0.8 mm
Print speed: 45 mm/s
Travel speed: 60 mm/s
Retraction speed: 40 mm/s (4 mm distance)
Fill density: 15 %
Retraction: ON
Fan: ON
Nozzle: original 0.4 mm

PS: I have some problems with scrapping Y axes which are communicated with Printrbot team, but I hope it is not this problem with overhangs.
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3D maker, early adopter, copywriter and editor (not in English ;) ) from the heart of Europe
Printrbot Simple Metal Kit rev. F with original heated bed, X axis upgrade and E3D V6 hot end
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3Dbenchy behind expectations (Simple Metal with heated bed)

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Re: 3Dbenchy behind expectations (Simple Metal with heated b

Postby Gadget-Dad » 2015-May-Thu-17-May

It looks like you might have a loose belt. I am not sure of other reasons that you print would shift, but I have seen that with mine.
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Re: 3Dbenchy behind expectations (Simple Metal with heated b

Postby JonS » 2015-May-Thu-21-May

Yes, it should not have those shifts.

Here's mine from my Metal Plus with the new Ubis Metal hotend and Alu Extruder v2.

I haven't tried tuning the print temp yet. I'm using the same temp that I was using with my E3D v6.

3DBenchy_MetalPlus_UbisMetal_AluExtruderV2.jpg
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Printrbot Metal Plus with:

- Dual Ubis 13S metal hot ends (swapped for original Ubis metals)
- Dual Gear Head extruders
- Heated bed
- PEI print bed film

Printrbot Jr (put out to pasture).
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Re: 3Dbenchy behind expectations (Simple Metal with heated b

Postby tomulinek » 2015-May-Fri-06-May

Thank you both. It looks like I will have to change metal blocks with built in bearings on Y arm. The scraping metal inside bearings makes a notable resistance. And reset both X and Y belts after the bearings change. Unfortunately there will be some time without printing (as I am from Europe) because of the long way for parts from manufacturer. Not a lucky assembling after all. :cry:
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3D maker, early adopter, copywriter and editor (not in English ;) ) from the heart of Europe
Printrbot Simple Metal Kit rev. F with original heated bed, X axis upgrade and E3D V6 hot end
Simplify3D and OctoPi on RaspberryPi 2 + Pi NoIR camera with IR LED light

http://www.3dhubs.com/brno/hubs/tom
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Re: 3Dbenchy behind expectations (Simple Metal with heated b

Postby cacb » 2015-May-Fri-09-May

tomulinek wrote:Thank you both. It looks like I will have to change metal blocks with built in bearings on Y arm. The scraping metal inside bearings makes a notable resistance. And reset both X and Y belts after the bearings change. Unfortunately there will be some time without printing (as I am from Europe) because of the long way for parts from manufacturer. Not a lucky assembling after all. :cry:


Hi tomulinek, I am in Europe also :D

Your image with those shifts look very similar to what I experienced when I assembled my printer, see the horizontal shifts in the arms of this spool holder
Image

If your boat was heading along the X-axis it could be the same problem as in the image above: I found that the metal bracket under the bed, holding the X-axis linear bearings was not properly secured (I was afraid of the screws touching the board under the holes). After securing the four bracket screws, also using nylon shims, the problem was gone.

For the Y axis make sure there is nothing bending the vertical bars.
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Printrbot Simple Metal Kit + heated bed upgrade. KISSlicer (Kubuntu/Win7), OctoPrint (wireless Raspberry Pi model B) - http://arnholm.org/
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Re: 3Dbenchy behind expectations (Simple Metal with heated b

Postby Mooselake » 2015-May-Sat-08-May

If you remove the bearings you can carefully clean them - the original Kickstarter printrbots (like mine) had rough bearings. I cleaned mine with electronic contact cleaner spray (I happened to have some that claimed it was plastic safe), then relubricated them with "dry" teflon bike lube (it goes on wet, but contains a lot of wax and almost dries) before and after assembly. If you do this be careful reinserting the rods or you can lose some balls. Amazingly I didn't post a lot of detail about the process.

The bearings on my Z axis are still working well after more than two years. I've worn out and replaced both the X and Y bearings (after damaging and replacing them in the original assembly), but that was after a lot of use including some serious limit testing.

Kirk
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Re: 3Dbenchy behind expectations (Simple Metal with heated b

Postby tomulinek » 2015-Jun-Fri-03-Jun

So, I have to completely repair my Printrbot using replacement parts. And the situatuion is evolving here… http://www.printrbottalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=9928
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3D maker, early adopter, copywriter and editor (not in English ;) ) from the heart of Europe
Printrbot Simple Metal Kit rev. F with original heated bed, X axis upgrade and E3D V6 hot end
Simplify3D and OctoPi on RaspberryPi 2 + Pi NoIR camera with IR LED light

http://www.3dhubs.com/brno/hubs/tom
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Re: 3Dbenchy behind expectations (Simple Metal with heated b

Postby Cyberchipz » 2015-Jul-Thu-12-Jul

So, it looks like small problems after a build, or buying a used printer, like I did are part of the norm. My first 3mm block printed without a hitch. In fact my first several prints went fairly well, and I just needed to adjust my infill to have it look nice. Then, everything went south and I started with having similar issues with the Y axis, then the X, and my fan is still missing a bolt to hold it in. Fortunately I was only down a couple of days, as I tweaked this, and tightened that, and most of the time now, I need very little tweaking to get a great part. Not bad for a machine made of wood.

I imagine enough time has passed, that you're up and running again. I just printed a 3dBenchy and it came out much like the 2nd photo from the other poster. I'm fairly pleased, and got as expected, the underside of the unsupported roof is the messiest, but not as bad as I thought it would be; I'm actually fairly impressed. I don't have the steps on the outer rails of the boats, as indicated. But, I printed at 0.1mm layers, and that might be why. They feel pretty smooth to the touch.

I plan on designing a calibration tool that's easy to measure with a caliper to check my axes. I think it could use some tweaking in the overall linearity of the one, based on Benchy measurement; however, I think a simple tool will help better than trying to figure out the problem on a benchy. My Benchy's holes were not perfectly round, though close. I had some squashing of the first layer, for the print on the bottom. I've since raised my Z-axis zero up 0.001, and am thinking I might have to go to 0.002, but, I'm worried about sticking the print. I noticed that it was a little pickier about sticking after the 0.001 change, going to two might be a bit much.
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Re: 3Dbenchy behind expectations (Simple Metal with heated b

Postby Mooselake » 2015-Jul-Thu-13-Jul

We love pictures here. Even new users undergoing the spammer weeding out can post pictures as attachments (you won't be able to link to pictures elsewhere until the mysterious spammer screening process completes).

If you look at thingiverse.com you can find lots of calibration objects that can be both useful and inspirational (in the designing new object sense). Ignore the takerbot controversy for now (that's another show...).

Build, buy, old, new, at this stage of the hobby (and even the professional) 3D printer industry the small problems never completely go away. They're part of the fun, and a significant percentage of 3D printer owners find that modifying and improving their printer is as, if not more, interesting than actually using them. I'm one of those...

I don't remember seeing what model Printrbot you have, although that could be an aging moose thing. What is it, and what type of computer and OS are you using?

Kirk
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