LC and Plus assembly notes

Talk about assembling your printer

LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby CL1 » 2012-Apr-Sun-06-Apr

WIP- Nearly Complete! will remove this tag once the doc is complete

Courtesy of CaHorton, we have Labeled photos of:
Base Assembly Parts here: http://flic.kr/p/bDeui3
Tool Assembly Parts here: http://flic.kr/p/bSL93p
Carriage Assembly Parts here: http://flic.kr/p/bDRUjm
Z assembly here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/cahorton/7001506608/
Printbed here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/cahorton/7149122635/
Thank you Chris!

LC and Plus Assembly Notes

Step 0
Consider a light sanding of the parts (Don't use sandpaper coarser than 220!), and perhaps a seal coat of spray shellac. This is totally NOT necessary, but is pretty unlikely to be done later. And it will protect the wood and make your Bot look better. Paint is another consideration, but I'll leave that to you as it will involve far more effort and details. A couple light spray coats of clear Shellac sanded with some 320 or 400 paper may be worth doing. Don't make the mistake of putting heavy coats of sealer paint on the parts before assembly however! They fit tightly and while a thin shellac coating will protect without interfering with assembly, the same cannot be said of most paints or other clear spray finishes. Another possible simple finish would be a polymerised Tung Oil. But this will smell for some time as it cross-links and some are allergic to Tung Oil, which is closely related to Poison oak and ivy in its natural state.

For color one might properly consider aniline Dyes instead of paint. These won't add thickness, and with an alcohol base dry quickly. Most important, theycome in a WIDE range of colors, are inexpensive and easy to use, look wonderful and do not muddle the grain of the wood. If you choose this, be sure to wipe the entire wood pieces with an alcohol soaked rag to remove the residue of the laser cutting. From the choices available, I'd quickly choose the aniline dye and shellac finish for a personal Bot.

One final consideration is the idea to use a loctite type product on the structural assembly screws. I think it's a good idea, and suggest using loctite purple or blue. Both are *removable*, unlike the Loctite Red which is NOT a good idea. Purple is made for small fasteners, but only Blue and Red are typically available at the BigBox homestores. I also don't think it's a good idea to use Glue on the first assembling of your bot. There is too much possibility for mistakes or needed adjustments when you are just starting out to make this a good idea! You can always disassemble and glue later should you find it necessary. (Unless you name your Bot johnny 5 ;) ) I'm betting you won't need to use any glue besides the SHOE to DOGL connection, especially if you use the Loctite on all fasteners.
But I need also to mention that none of the bots on the PBHQ farm have been loctited OR glued. (Some are being considered for loctite now, however!)

Begin actual assembly by grouping the Laser Cut parts into the 4 basic assembly groups. I've put a post together which lists them by name and you can probably figure them out even without pictures. Pictures are coming, but text I can do NOW! I would also suggest getting the hardware sorted by length and type. It can be very useful to see that you have a certain number of a given length screw or nut. Clear yourself a FLAT build area about 2 feet square (600mm square). Even better if you can make it a larger clear workspace. Flat is important, and level is useful.

Step 1
The Base assembly parts only go together one way PROVIDED you get the very first step right. Otherwise you CAN get an inside-out build and have to start over.The key to the puzzle is the Z endstop switch. Gather the parts of the Base assembly group. Lay out the Deck, Front and Rear base plates with the rear plate closest to you, then the deck, and the Front plate farthest from you. Put the tabs of the Front and Rear Plates towards the Slots of the Deck. The Front plate has fewer holes than the rear plate which has the Round SD card access hole and the rect-round USB access hole. You will notice that the deck has a single non-symmetric hole about 8mm in diameter near one end and closer to an edge; i.e., not centered across the short dimension. Identify this Z endstop hole in the DECK and place it towards you and at left. The deck is the largest rectangular piece with cooling slots in the middle.
MAy1,2012 Edit: See pics and additional comments in Rosebugs post in this section of the forum. TODO-addlink

The Rear Base Plate is similarly non-symmetrical, and you will notice two small holes near the upper portion of one end. These are used to mount the Z endstop switch using the ZLMT spacer which is a small rectangle about the size of one of the endstop switch body with two small holes that match the switch. So if you look at the holes in the switch, then look for something similar in a small rectangle piece, you will find the ZLMT spacer. Then use these two to find the mating holes in the Rear plate. Once you have done this, place the rear plate with the curved bottom towards you and the switch holes at your LEFT. Confirm that these holes are at least somewhat in line with the larger 8mm hole you found in the Deck. Make sure the hole in the deck is also at the left and that the 8mm hole is close to the twin switch holes of the Rear base plate.
NOTE: You may have to flip the Deck and/or the rear plate over to achieve this relationship. Be sure to get this right!


If you now trial fit the Rear plate tabs into the Deck slots they should fit nicely. lift the Rear plate and offer it to the deck which you leave laying flat on the work table. Don't try to completely assemble this joint. This is just a trial fit to assure correct orientation of the two parts for further assembly. Once fitted this way, you can see how the Endstop switch will sit under the hole and spaced away from the Rear plate by the ZLMT spacer. Go ahead and lay the Rear plate back flat on your work area. Keep the Switch holes to the LEFT!
As a secondary check, let's trial fit the Front Base panel.

24May2012 EDIT:
Orig notes said:The FRONT Plate IS symmetrical, so you can choose the best looking side to face outwards. This is NOT true for the latest LC's, as discovered by skyshard when his ZRods weren't perpendicular to the 101 DEKC. Thank you skyshard! Here's his quote from another thread, and an additional note by me:
skyshard wrote:Anyhow, the main point is... the front plate isn't actually symmetric! (or at least mine isn't). Flipping that around (for me, that's putting the side with the laser burn marks on the outside) doesn't quite get the Zrods squared up, but it's definitely much closer.

NOTE:You may still have to exchange the LRDC's and/or BSTR's left and right to get the most perpendicular result for your ZRods.
end EDIT

You don't have this choice with the DECK or Rear plate due to their non-symmetry.[/b] Try the tabs of the FRONT plate up to the DECK and see that they fit together as expected. Again, just a trial fit to be sure the DECK and REAR plate are arranged for correct assembly.

Step 1a
Now gather up the Four pairs of parts remaining for the base assembly. Easiest to identify are the two FOOT pieces. Set them aside for now. The rectangular pair with tabs all four sides are the BSTR Base STRetchers. The pair with only two small screw holes are the RDEP RoD End Plates. The remaining pair have either an 8mm (LRDC) or 12mm (LRDP) hole centered in their longest dimension. These are the Lower RoD lC or Lower RoD Plus plates. Notice that the two larger pairs have triangles which are used to indicate the front. (The small RDEP plates *may* have triangles also, and if so, it's worthwhile to have them point towards the front also. During the design update, It was realised that these parts didn't need orientation so the indicator triangles were removed from later parts. There is no functional or usability difference between the two versions. Just use what you have and all will be well.

EDIT: You may want to read this post about the Zrods before continuing with Step 1b .It adds some details and provides some steps to get the best build possible in this step. You will still insert the actual Z Rods later, but this info can be useful now.
http://www.printrbottalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=527&p=4064#p4064

Step 1b
Having identified the parts, join the two larger pairs (BSTR and LRDC or LRDP) into two sets, keeping the triangle arrows pointed the same direction. They will form an L-shape when looked at on end. You can see the same L-shape in the slots of the front and Rear Plates. Fit these L-shaped assemblies into the REAR plate nearest you. Be VERY careful to keep all the triangle indicator arrows facing the same direction, namely UP from the work area plane. This is super important since the holes in the deck and these lower rod plates MUST line up accurately! Now you can fit the FRONT BASE plate to the L-shaped tabs on the upward facing ends of the BSTR and LRDx pairs.

Because the BSTR top and bottom tabs are not the same spacing, they automatically assemble so that there is a two slot, one screw hole cutout in each BSTR which is closer to the DECK than the bottom. On the LC, This is the attachment for the PCMT PrintrBoard MounT piece. This is the last laser cut piece of the LC Base assembly. The Plus model does not use this PCMT piece, and instead mounts the PCB using 4 screws and spacers. Note that the PCB is installed later. We just want to assemble the PCMT piece to the LEFT BSTR/LRDC pair while we still have easy access for the single 6-32x1/2" screw and square nut required. Check that the triangle arrow of the PCMT is facing the Front panel, then go ahead and fully tighten this screw.

Now roll the Front,Back, BSTR/LRDx assembly away from you onto the flat DECK. Fit the tabs into the DECK slots. It will take some wiggling and some pressure. You should find that there is enough friction in the assembly that it basically stays together without screws. If some part seems loose, go ahead and add the obvious screw and square nut to keep the Base together, but don't tighten beyond lightly snug. A guy I used to work with talked of monkey tight vs. Gorilla tight. Here we're talking capuchin (organ Grinder monkey) tight!

Step 1c
Now that the base is holding together, let's install the RDEP plates which are the only Base unit parts besides the PCMT screw to be tightened fully at this time.
As mentioned before these may have arrows or not, but the arrows really aren't meaningful. If they're there, point them toward the FRONT plate. If the indicators aren't present, just place the RDEP plates over the 8mm LC Z axis vertical rod holes of the LRDC, or the 12mm Plus Z axis vertical rod holes of the LRDP. It should be obvious how to use two 6-32 x 3/4 screws and two square nuts per RDEP plate to fasten the three parts firmly together. Now add the rest of the screws and square nuts to fill all the holes. Where a hole is by itself and close to the diameter of the Screw, do NOT use a washer. Where the screw is going through a tab/crossslot, a washer MUST be used. Take some care to get the washers centered so they can do their job of holding the tabs tightly to the outer face of the panels, but remember not to tighten beyond snug at this point! Even though the assembly is quite rigid and stiff even now, there is a useful amount of flexibility which will be used to square and parallel the Vertical rods using the Assembled Bridge some steps down the road.

Note: Don't add the two Foot pieces yet. We need to get the Z axis motors in place first!

Now you will add the four linear bearings for the Y axis table movement to the deck. Note that on Plus models, this step can be done after the printerboard is installed, but on LC's the PrintrBoard blocks access for the left pair of bearings.Insert a smooth rod through TWO linear bearings. Then repeat using a 2nd smooth rod and two more linear bearings. We want the rods through the bearings BEFORE we wire-tye them to the deck! Temporarily add the three P or b-shaped YBAR plastic parts and the single YEST to the ends of the smooth rods to keep them from sliding out of the linear bearings by accident. The YEST goes at the FRONT LEFT, and the others are identical, so will fit on any of the remaining three ends. From the front, the left pair look like a d or P. The right pair look like a b or q. With the base right side up and the bearings set into the cutouts provided for them, confirm that the smooth rods look parallel. If not, check that they are fully seated into the cutouts and check again. Remember that we have NOT tightened any of the screws of the base assembly yet except the four holding the RDEP's in place and on the LC, the one holding the PCMT! So there will be some flexing of the base to account for as you make this check.

I prefer the heads of the Wire-tyes inside the base for looks, but I've seen that it IS worthwhile (on the LC, at left) to keep them on the outside so they can be more easily re-tightened after a few to several hours of run-in use of the PrintrBot. So I now put the free end of these wire-tyes IN from the TOP of the deck through the OUTERMOST hole then under the bearing (inside the base) and up from the inside through the INNERMOST hole. Then over the bearing, and into the head of the wire-tye. I want to end up with the head of the wire-tye BELOW the top of the bearing body. So that is about 10 o'clock on the left and 2 o'clock on the right, I then snug the wire-tyes for all bearings, move the smooth rods back and forth while i press the bearing tightly into the base, and tighten the wire-tyes a bit more. Then cut them off, BUT NOT FLUSH! Leave enough to re-tighten after some parts have been printed. Oriented as described, they shouldn't get in the way, but they will be unsightly until you trim them flush! Putting the heads inside does look better, and as long as you're willing to do the extra work of removing the PrinterBoard to do the expected re-tightening, go ahead. But be honest with yourself! Better to be ugly and tight, than good looking but loose. ;)

Step 1d
Now that the basic Base assembly is complete we can start adding the electronics. Begin with the all important Z endstop switch and its wooden ZLMT spacer. Use a wire-tye and be sure to keep the head of the wire-tye on the OUTSIDE of the base. The Z motor is very close to the Switch, and there is not enough room to put the locking head of the wire-tye inside. Consider using a bit of wood glue between the spacer and Rear Base plate. Perhaps adding some between the switch and ZLMT as well. You don't want this switch to shift during operation of your bot. UsingsScrews is another possibility, but they must be sized correctly to not interfere with the stepper. See my post in the Mounting Endstops thread for more details. Consider this an advanced choice, and if you need it, you can come back to it later. The glue and wire-tye will probably be enough.

Step 1e
Let's add the PrintrBoard next.
For the LC:
The PCB is held by two, 6-32x1/2 screws self-tapped into the PCMT wood piece we installed earlier, along with a 6-32 x 1, and an M3x20 screw. These last two use nylon spacers 5/8 (16mm) tall to match the height of the PCMT plane *above* the DECK (actually below?). If you were careful with the arrows all should line up and be obvious. It's probably easier to put the end with the long screws and spacers 1st, but I've done it both ways. One thing to watch out for is that the PCMT may not be on a perfect parallel plane to the deck due to the cone-shape of the laser cut and its effect when the parts are joined. If you find this to be the case, you have at least two options. First, simply do not over-tighten the two short 6-32 screws into the PCMT so you don't physically stress the PrintrBoard.
2nd, you can disassemble or at least loosen the PCMT screw and see if you can make for a more parallel assembly. This is one reason we're putting the PCB in now, before the Z motors get in the way of this screw!

For the Plus:
The Plus uses four nylon 5/8 (16mm) spacers, three 6-32 x 1 screws, and a single long M3 screw to mount the PrintrBoard. All self tap into the Wood of the Deck and the layout is obvious when the parts are in front of you.

For Both: Don't over tighten or you'll strip the wood, and consider using the R/C modeler's trick of CA superglue reinforcing of the self-tapped threads. Be sure to let the CA glue DRY before re-installing the screws if you do this! And it's totally NOT necessary. Just another possibly nice choice worth mentioning for those who may find it worthwhile.
Note: DO check that the SD and USB holes are usable! If not, perhaps that first step was backwards somehow and you've built the base inside out? I hope not. And I hope you didn't get an old rev of the rear panel, since this was changed several times. Anyways, check now. Fix if you can, let PB know if you can't.

Now that the PCB is in place you can connect the dangling Z endstop switch cable to the PrintrBoard. If your eyes aren't sharp, you may need a magnifying glass to read the PCB which does Identify the connectors clearly. Or you can look up "Printrboard" with Google and see a larger than life picture which will help. Here's one http://reprap.org/wiki/File:PrintrboardRevB_Front.jpg so you have it for reference as we're going to be connecting quite a few cables to this board and we want to get them ALL in the correct spot! Here's another useful link: http://www.printrbottalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=335#p2336

Step 1f
The Y Endstop switch goes on now. If we'd put it on before the PrintrBoard, it would have made the PCB installation harder since the DECK would not be flat. Now it's a simple single wire-tye to attach the switch to the TOP LEFT FRONT of the DECK. You'll notice there are actually two sets of twin switch holes with a larger rectangular hole nearby for the connector to go through the DECK to mate with the PrintrBoard. You can read more about this at my Endstops post. For now, just use the top left front facing set of holes and a single Wire-tye to mount the switch. The free end of Its lever should be toward the left to meet the actuating screw of the YEST printed Y Rod end. After the switch is mounted, push the connector body through the nearest rectangular hole. Then turn the base assembly upside down and connect the switch cable to the PrintrBoard.

Step 1g
Next we'll add the Vertical Z rods to the base. These will of course need to be a tight fit. So we'll want to take some care in their installation. The holes are just a bit too small by design and we're going to take advantage of the cone-shape of the laser cutting to let the rod find its own size in the cut holes of the DECK and LRDC or LRDP plates. You'll want to press and twist the 8 or 12mm rods until they go through the Deck and then again when you get to the LRDC (LC) or LRDP (Plus) plates. You should notice a comforting solid feel as the bottom of the Rod comes into full contact with the RDEP plates. In the latest version of these RDEP plates, the holes were moved so you can visually check to see that the rods are fully seated. But even in the earlier versions, you can feel the difference as they fully seat.

As mentioned before, the Z rods may not be perfectly square and parallel at this point but don't worry; you'll fix that using the Completed Bridge in a later step. For now, we just want to insure that they are installed and snug. If they somehow ended up too loose, you can use a layer of kapton, aluminum HVAC or similar tape to shim them back into a snug fit. Now that they're installed, be careful not to bang them against the worktable as you continue to work on the base assembly, since that could loosen them more than you want!

Step 1h
Time to mount the Z axis stepper motors! Use M3 screws and be careful not to pinch the stepper wiring between your work surface and the Bot as you build. Push the single connector for the two Z stepper motors onto the PrintrBoard header marked Z motor and be sure that it is pressed all the way down.
NOTE: Use a wire-tye or two to deal with any dangling, but remember that you'll soon have MANY more wires, so you may want to deal with the routing and clean-up of the cabling all at once. For now just BE SURE to keep from pinching, stretching, or otherwise straining or weakening the wires or their connection to the white connector as you continue to build This is true for ALL wiring from here on out! I've seen several reports from early builders who made this simple mistake. Keep it in mind and Be careful as you work.

Step 1i
Now you can add the two FOOT pieces which will add stability for further building, and also reduce the potential for wire pinching. Use four 6-32 x 3/4 screws and Square nuts. If you start the screw with your fingers and get it even a single turn into the nut by hand, you can use a regular Phillips #2 screwdriver to do the rest, even though the screwdriver is at a pretty severe angle. Definitely do-able though! (A Black or stainless 6-32 x 3/4 Socket Head Cap Screw would be the ultimate upgrade here. Ball end hex key then makes assembly super easy.)

Congratulations! You have finished the Initial Base Assembly! There is a reason this is called the INITIAL Base Assembly! Nearly ALL of the screws in the Base Assembly should NOT be tight at this point! ONLY the four 3/4" screws holding the RDEP's and the single 1/2" screw holding the PCMT are tight! This is important! We will tighten the remaining screws as one of the first steps in the Bridge Assembly.

Step2
The Tool mount Assembly
Let's take a break and complete an easy assembly next. It uses exactly the same parts for both the LC and the Plus models.

Made from only four pieces, a Top known as the Extruder Mount (EXMT), two triangular GUSSets with large holes, and a Rear plate known as the EXtruder Plate (EXPL). The EXMT has exactly four slots and only four slots. It is the only part which fits this description. The EXPL has four closed slots, two open slots between two tabs, and one round and one oval hole. Across its bottom opposite the open slots is a nice double serpentine outline. As before mentioned the GUSS are triangular with a single large hole, and you have a pair in your kit. With these descriptions you shold be able to identify the parts. And a few minutes should be enough to decipher how they fit together. EXMT at TOP, EXPL at rear with its wide side up, each GUSS narrow side down in the two closed slots outside of the four slots of the EXPL. Use four 6-32 x 1/2 screws with washers and square nuts for assembly. Do not put screws in the Front slots on either side of the Hotend clearance slot of the EXMT, since these are used to mount the EXTR EXTRuder Body Printed part in a later step.

Congratulations! You have finished the Initial Tool Mount Assembly!

Step 3
The Carriage Assembly
Where the Carriage of the PB Original is arguably the simplest and probably the easiest part of that model to build, the LC and Plus Carriages are quite involved and can be quite unwieldy and difficult in a few places. But it is critical that this VERY important assembly be completed to the best of your abilities! The overall results you get with your PrintrBot is dependent upon the carriage being properly and carefully assembled.

Gather the parts for the Carriage Assembly. In addition to the wood pieces, you'll need two or three linear bearings and their retaining clips. You may also need some shim material. Kapton tape is used at PBHQ, but regular shipping tape can work. Aluminum HVAC tape is another possible alternative, though it may be too thick in some cases. Even regular gift wrapping tape can work, if you are careful when fitting the wood pieces. Now hopefully you won't need any shim on the bearing bodies at all, but don't be discouraged if one or more of the laser cut holes is not a perfect fit to its bearing.

There are five wooden parts in the carriage assembly. These are:
LC:
CARR (CARriage Rear). T-shaped
CRPC (CaRriage Plate lC, which is the front). Rectangle, with four cross-shaped holes, and one round hole.
CARC (CARrriage Center, which has four thin slots to receive up to four Retaining clip ends.) These locate up to four linear bearings in the carriage. Typically 2 or 3 Linear Bearings are used. If 3 are used put the doubled bearings AT TOP.
CRRC (Carriage Right LC, which has the bump on the arm to hold the X axis endstop actuating screw) L-Shaped.
CRLC (CaRriage Left lC) L-Shaped.

PLUS:
CARR (CArriage ReaR). T-shaped
CRPP (CaRriage Plate Plus, which is the front). Rectangle, with four cross-shaped holes, and TWO round holes.
CARP (CARrriage center Plus, which has four thin slots to receive up to four Retaining clip ends to locate up to four linear bearings in the carriage.) Typically 2 or 3 Linear Bearings are used. If 3 are used put the doubled bearings AT TOP.
CRRP (Carriage Right Plus, which has the bump on the arm to hold the X axis endstop actuating screw) L-Shaped.
CRLP (CaRriage Left Plus) L-Shaped.

Now before we begin actual assembly, choose how many bearings you will use for your carriage. Two bearings generally work fine and will maximise the PrintrBot's build volume. Using three linear bearings uses up a bit of X travel but will significantly increase overall carriage rigidity. If you DO use three, double up at the top of the carriage, with the single bearing below. Arranged this way they provide the maximum resistance to inertial forces caused by the asymmetric Extruder above them. An extra bearing is included with the kit to allow for this choice. This *extra* linear bearing is there for this purpose, OR to replace one which is ruined by pushing the small balls out accidentally with a misaligned Rod. To help prevent this unfortunate event from happening, whenever possible put the rod through the bearing BEFORE you fasten the bearing into permanent alignment! This is MOST important when using two bearings on a single smooth rod.

Step 3a
If you have decided to use two bearings, prepare them by putting a bearing retainer clip over BOTH ends of each bearing. If you are using Three bearings, one will have two retainers, the other two bearings only need ONE retainer each. So Four retainers are used in either of these configurations. Special pliers which have pin-shaped tips to fit in the small round holes are available to make this easier, but it can be done using a flat-blade screwdriver of *typical* size as a wedge to spread the ends of the retainer so that it slides over the bearing body, until it clicks into the slot near the end of the linear bearing.
Lay the Carriage Center (CARC) or (CARP,for the Plus) on your worktable with the wider end UPwards. This is the TOP. The four thin slots will be at center and towards the bottom of the CARC. The single rectangular slot will be near the top. The CARP has the four thin slots at top and bottom, with the rectangular slot towards the top, and the single round hole towards the bottom.
Now trial fit the protruding parts of the bearing retainers (with the tiny round holes in them for the specialised pliers) in the thin slots of the CARC or CARP. You will quickly see that the bearing(s) with two retainers fits completely over the width, and the protruding retainer parts do not go into the thin slots at all! NOTE:But they do still need to go into the *slot* created at assembly between the Carriage Center plate (CARC) and the right and left Carriage plates!

The single retainer bearings WILL have their retainer protrusion going into the two thin slots in the *middle* of the CARC ,or the upper slots in the CARP. You will quickly notice that this means the end without the retainer goes outward. So if you have chosen to use three bearings, carefully put a smooth rod through the two upper bearings such that their retainers are towards each other. You don't need to insert the 2nd smooth rod through the single bearing(s) yet.

NOTE: The CARC and CARP are designed to use up to Four linear bearings. Three is plenty, but it was easy enough to add the fourth slot, so i did! This also sets up a possible use with doubled bearings in the low position, should a future Tool be used which would apply torque more towards the bottom, much as the current heavy extruder concentrates inertial torque towards the top.

Step 3b
Set the shaft with bearings and the single bearing(s) aside for the moment. Leave the CARC or CARP on the worktable in front of you. Set the Carriage Right plate (CRRC or CRRP) to the right of it, and place the Left plate (CRLC or CRLP) to its left. The thin arms of these parts should be horizontal, and should point away from the Carriage center (CARC). Now place the Carriage Rear (CARR) with its thin arms horizontal and the cross-slotted tab down. Put the Carriage plate CRPC (1 hole) or CRPP (2 holes) directly below the CARC or CARP in your worktable layout. The single hole of the CARC goes UP. For the Plus, the four cross-shaped holes in the CARP are closer to one end than the other. The close end is the BOTTOM. So put the wider/thicker? end UP. Checking another way, the hole (1 of 2) that is farther from the edge goes UP.

You can probably now see the relationship of these parts to each other in the final assembly. You might make a non-bearing, non-fastener trial assembly to verify that all parts fit as they should.

Step 3c
Now we want to check the fit of the bearing bodies to their respective holes in the right (CRRC, CRRP) and left (CRLC,CRLP) carriage plates. The fit should be snug, tending towards tight. A loose fit of one or more holes to the bearing body will allow the Carriage to rock and roll in a most unsuitable way. Having said this, I should add that I have seen bots on the farm at PBHQ that work just fine with FAR less than perfect fits in this area! Especially if three bearings are used, which reduces the needed accuracy of fit a bit. You may want to just go ahead and assemble as-is, and then decide later to upgrade the fits as needed. But you should take note of this area (even literal notes!) so that if you do experience printing problems which *could* be related to poor fit, you won't go looking for other reasons. Read the paragraph below to see and setup the general arrangement of parts. Then offer up the repective bearings and holes to see how they individually fit. Make notes and continue, or correct using any of the following: Use the bearing itself as a *reamer* to enlarge an overly tight hole. Don't overdo this! Use tape on the bearing body as a shim to tighten up a loose hole.

NOTE: Always Keep in mind that the laser has cut a cone-shaped hole! One side of the plate will have different fit than the other due to this reality. This also means that a tight fit WILL loosen up more easily since the smallest part of the hole is narrow, and gets wider as it is enlarged from cone-shape to cylinder-shape

Step 3d
Return the parts to their original layout positions on your work table to help prevent errors of left right top bottom, etc in the finished assembly.

Let's begin the actual carriage assembly by lifting the cross-slotted end of the Carriage rear (CARR) up away from the worktable, and mating it to the rectangular slot in the carriage center (CARC or CARP). Do not use a screw or nut yet! Now if you are right handed, grasp the two parts between the thumb, forefinger and middle finger of your Left hand. Thumb on top of the CARC or CARP, CARR held between the fore and middle finger. With your Right hand, Grasp the rod with the dual bearings (or one of the two prepared single bearings), and lay it across the CARC or CARP, such that the retainer tabs of the two bearings go into the narrow slots (or the tabs of the single bearing point downwards over the width of the part). Use your left thumb to hold them in place, while you similarly add the single bearing to the CARC or CARP.
Now slide the CRRC or CRRP (with the bump and hole for the X axis endstop actuating screw) over the smooth rod and then the RIGHT *arm* of the carriage rear (CARR), toward the bearings. The Right plate (CRRC or CRRP) will fit snugly over the bearing bodies as you mate it to the tabs of the carriage center (CARC, or CARP). Be sure to align the ends of the retainers INTO the slots formed as these two parts meet, and that the retainer ends already in the slots STAY in the those slots as you put the right and left plate onto the CARR and Carriage Center.

This is easier to DO than to write about! With one side plate in place, you can relax your grip and set the sub-assembly down. Lefties like me will reverse the above to get an equal but opposite mid-point to the assembly. We will however be putting the LEFT Side plate CRLC or CRLP on first instead!

Now that your fingers have had a rest, repeat the above, but opposite to get the second side plate onto the Assembly. It will be easier than the first part since the structure is interlocking more and more as you go! Note that there are still no nuts or screws used to this point!

Step 3e
The final step to LC and Plus carriage assembly is to fit the front Plate (CRPC or CRPP) to the sub-assembly already waiting and insert all fasteners. We will use four SQUARE NUTS, which will become *embedded* in the midst of the Front plate, and prevented from being pulled out by the right and left plates. At PBHQ each person has their favorite way to achieve this goal, as the task is deceptively difficult. The nuts shift or fall out, they prevent the plate from seating, etc. Anyways, Brook uses finesse and gravity to get two lined up, then he squishes one side of the front plate to *trap* them, and then lines up the other two and repeat. Bill and Alex prefer to tape the nuts into position lightly and remove the tape after the nuts are secure. My own technique is to temporarily thread four long screws into the nuts to be used as *handles* to move them into alignment as needed, in a tooled-up variant of Brook's technique. A few cheat and put hex nuts in, which makes the task easier, but gives up a fair bit of strength in the end result. Don't do it. Others have used tweezers, choice words, and probably prayers too!

Whatever method you choose (though I AM partial to the long-screws-as-handles method for beginners), the goal is to get ALL four square nuts into the four square spaces created by the joining pairs of cross-shaped holes in the left/right plates and the front plate. When this is correct, the front plate will seat completely flat against the right and left plates, where it can be held with one 1-1/2" long screw and Square nut for the LC, or two 1-1/2" long screws and Square nuts for the Plus. These go from the front plate to the CARR, where a captive square nut completes the top (and only, in the LC) fastening. For the Plus, the second lower screw is mated to a square nut behind the Carriage center plate. NOTE: A 1-3/4" screw was used for a small number of kits, where it will be included and will be the ONLY 1-3/4" screw in the kit. This goes into the nut trapped by the CARR. IOW, it replaces one of the 1-1/2" screws.

Finally a single (LC) or double (Plus) 1-1/4" screw and nut are used from side to side in round holes (parallel to the linear bearings). I prefer hex nuts for these as it looks better. For the same reason, I put the screw heads towards the right. This also makes them easier to tighten up if needs be.

Slide the 2nd smooth rod CAREFULLY through the lower bearing, and set the COMPLETED carriage assembly aside until called for in the Bridge Assembly Instructions which follow.

Congratulations! You have finished the Carriage Assembly!

Step 4
The Bridge Assembly
The LC and Plus Bridge Assembly seems complicated at first, but there is a lot of repetition of parts left and right, and if you break it down to steps, it's really not too bad! However, several people have forged ahead in the absence of clear instructions and I see that it is still not a completely obvious task for most.

The first step to Bridge assembly is to be sure you have already assembled the base! If you haven't, please scroll upward and complete that section first. You're going to need the Carriage Assembly too!

Now Lets begin the Bridge Assembly by fitting two Linear Bearings over each vertical rod of the Initial BASE assembly. They will probably slide to the bottom, which is fine. You will of course be using 8mm for the LC and 12mm for the Plus. Now that these are on the Base, we will wire-tye them to the Main Bridge Plate; the XPLC or XPLP. The Main Bridge X plate goes BEHIND the rods and the smooth end is at RIGHT, with the bearings that *stick out* pointing DOWN towards the Deck. It should be quite easy to fix the bearings to the plate. The only thing you need to consider is where to put the Heads of the wire-tyes so they do not interfere with the bridge structure.

Step 4a, AKA Step 1j ;)
Once you have the bearings tight to the plate, you can use the bridge plate to align the vertical rods of the base. The first step of this alignment is probably something you already noticed. When you raise the Bridge up on the Z rods and then let it fall back to the base, one side is lower than the other. Or put another way, both of the downward facing lower linear bearing carrying legs of the Bridge X Plate do not touch the Base! If yours do, consider yourself VERY lucky and tighten ALL the remaining screws of the BASE. If NOT, then use some left-right *racking* force on the vertical rods so the bridge legs meet the Deck equally. If the Vertical rods are leaning left, the right leg of the X Plate will be raised. If they are leaning Right, the left leg of the X Plate will be raised. If they are vertical both legs will seat to the base at the exact same time. And this is the goal you seek, as you work your way around the base tightening screws, checking and re-checking vertical alignment as you go. It should be obvious that some base screws are more likely to affect and adjust the vertical rods than others, and you should concentrate on these first. But it would be a mistake to think that only the obvious screws will affect the Vertical rod alignment! Knowing this, take some time and care to get this vitally important alignment done right.

Check the toward you/away from you lean of the rods too. This should either be pretty darn close right at the getgo, or WAY, WAY OFF. If it is the latter, re-check that you have all the arrows of the base assembly pointing to the FRONT of the finished machine. If you DO, and the rods are STILL leaning WAY,WAY forward or backward, please get in touch with Printrbot.com to sort out the error, as this is most liekly due to some mismatched parts. But don;t expect perfection either in this direction! because the XY Plane can be adjusted in several ways to compensate for minor forward or rearward lean.

When you have gotten the X plate legs to evenly rest on the Deck, and all Base assembly screws are tightened fully, you can Congratulate yourself, the Base Assembly is now fuly complete! And we can finish building the Bridge Assembly!

Step 4b
For now, Go to the WIKI and follow Russ's steps to get the X Motor end and X Idler end together. I've edited some of what he wrote, and will add more later. * Mod edit to add link*: http://www.printrbottalk.com/wiki/index.php?title=LC_Printrbot_X-axis#Instructions
Then come back to here

Step 4c
Add the Idler Sub assembly to the X Plate Bridge.

LC:
Russ left the idler out of his LC idler end WIKI additions: ShortForm presentation from rearmost to front it goes like this: 5/16x1-1/4" Hex Bolt, Large Fender Washer, 608 Bearing, Large Fender washer, 5/16 Nut, through hole in XPlate, 5/16 Nut. Keep the rounded edges of the washers inward. Use the head of the Bolt to set the Idler pulley smoothness, and the two nuts against each other with the Xplate between to lock things down.

Plus:
The Button Head Cap Screw (Black oxide) serves as the IDLER pulley axle. It is mounted with the Button HEAD inside/under the REPP (Rod End Plate Plus) Which has the serpentine curve to match the XPLP (X PLate Plus/Bridge) outline.

The original design used a common hex-head bolt. But it was discovered that due to the changes made when the 12mm vertical rods were added, that there wasn't enough room for it anymore. Since this was discovered late in the delivery cycle (PB originals and LC's going first, the BHCS solution was added to existing semi-complete packages. This means you may have two 5/16-18 x 1-1/4" screws,one with Button head, one with hex. Only the Button head is used.

Put the 5/16 BHCS through the 5/16 hole on the RIGHT of the X Plate from the FRONT with the threads pointing to the rear. If it has a ground flat on one side of he head, position this DOWN. Then add a hex nut and tighten the nut fully. You won't need to hold the button head at all. It will tighten right up. Add a small washer, then the large fender washer, next a 608 bearing to be the idler, and then a 2nd large Fender washer. Keep the rounded edges of the fender washers inward towards the belt. Finally you should have one 5/16 Nylock locknut to hold the items comprising the Idler together. You may not need the small washer. You may find some small interference between the Button head and the Right NSPP. I don't find it to be a problem, but I know Brook had some of the BHCS ground with a small flat to completely remove the interference. YMMV. It's easier to carve, file or sand the wood of the NSPP, if you need to.

Step 4d
LC:
Time to add the LC Carriage Assembly to the Bridge! Tip the whole machine back so that gravity will help this next step. On the LEFT end of the Bridge, add the Plain Rod Support LC (RSLC)and CoVeR LC (CVRC) and fasten it LOOSELY with the four screws and nuts. I use hex nuts at the top, and Square nuts on the bottom for best appearance. Add the RIGHT RSLC only. Now take the Carriage Assembly from Step 3 which should have both smooth rods inserted and roughly centered. Slide the lower rod a couple inches (50mm) to the LEFT, compared to the one above it. This will allow you to insert the LOWER smooth rod into the LEFT lower *hole* between the Cover (CVRC) and Rod Support LC (RSLC). Slide the rod all the way left, and jiggle until it is sitting on both the LEFT rod supports, and is firmly against the LEFT Rod End Plate lC (REPC). This will allow it to also sit on the two supports at its RIGHT end. The TOP rod is NOT inserted at this point! With your right hand, you can hold the lower rod in place as you ROTATE the Carriage UP so that the Right Carriage plate with its actuating screw bump will clear the X Plate as it moves into final position. Once the bump has cleared the X Plate and is behind it, you can maneuver the TOP rod into place. At this point you can snug down the LEFT cover plate (CVRC) a bit, but do not fully tighten it. Then you complete the step by adding the RIGHT cover plate (CVRC) and its four screws and nuts. Snug them and return the PB to the upright position. Now you can easily tighten the eight Cover Plate screws with access to the nuts so you can keep them visually aligned.

Plus:
Much the same, but not necessary to use the single-rod-and-rotate method as the slot in the X Plate is wide enough to allow the Carriage Bump to pass.

Step 4e
Add the X Belt. The belt goes UNDER the Right and Left Carriage sides, UP through the square hole, folds back towards itself to lie upon the arms of the CArriage ReaR (CARR). It is held there by wire tyes which do NOT go around the lower BELT, only the underside of the CARR ARM. It is a good idea to do the LEFT side first, using only enough belt to get the job done. I prefer to have the wire tye sit between two teeth as close to the LEFT carriage Side as practical. This will help with belt tensioning and reduce movement of the end attachment. I've seen several pictures which show this wire-tye sitting a couple teeth from the Right and left Carriage sides, and this is not the best position. After you have one end of the belt fixed, route it (If you haven't already) around the motor pulley (PULY) along the bottom of the X plate to the idler bearing, around that bearing to the carriage, up and through, then back on itself to lie on the RIGHT arm of the CArriage ReaR (CARR). Pull the belt TIGHT! and fix as before with a wire-tye.

One or both of the Wedges (WEDG, of the COMS part) are then used if any further tensiooning of th ebelt is needed. If you have followed this step carefully, you probably won't need a wedge at this point. But Don't lose them! As th Belt Runs in and stretches, the wedge will be an easy way to keep thing moving smoothly!

Note: unrelated to the build directly, now is a good time to plant in your mind to have a look a what prints failed by low belt tension look like. Also consider what prints will look like if a pulley is loose.

Step 4f
Please note this step is not qualified for military service! ;) We will now add the X endstop switch to the Bridge X plate. We can start with the 6-32 x 1" actuating screw which self taps into the wood bump of the Right Carriage Plate. The head is on the LEFT and the shank goes towards the motor. Consider the CA superglue R/C hobbyists *trick* to strengthen these threads. Be SURE to wait until it is FULLY dry before re-seating the screw! Also consider using a hex nut as a lock or jam nut to keep bot vibration from changing the screw's position.

The Endstop switch itself must be modified before installation on the LC. The Screw next to its mounting holes is too close and the middle lug of the switch must be preferably cut off flush with the switch body (or nearly so, I use a pair of diagonal cutters), or alternatively bent REARWARD as close to the switch body as possible. This will allow it to sit against the screw without any problem. The metal to metal contact will not affect operation. The switch should have its actuating lever pointing UP. I like to temporarily remove the screw and XMPS to give the Switch wires a better routing before replacing these two in their original position.

Step 4g
Glue the SHOE to the Dogleg (DOGL). We want to this AFTER the Bridge is fully assembled and AFTER we have threaded a long 6-32 screw and perhaps a locking nut through it (The nut's A good idea). This is due to a concept called tolerance stacking, and also due to the cone-shaped cut of a laser. The cone-shaped cut means that the parts don't necessarily go together square. In fact, it pretty much ensures that they will NOT be square in any assembly relying on a square cut through the ply thickness! But this is Okay, it all still works as designed. But these small errors add up as parts are fastened together.

Our means of dealing with this tolerance stack is this glue joint between the Dogleg and the Shoe. So thread the long bolt through. Again consider the jam nut and the R/Cmodeler's trick of CA superglue reinforcement of the wooden threads. Here's that trick in a nutshell: Cut threads with screw, soak Shoe hole with CA, let dry!, re-insert screw and continue.

Now you can offer the screw/SHOE combination up to the Dogleg whilst ensuring that the screw fits through the hole in the Deck that you first used to be sure the base was arranged correctly! Assuming you can achieve this, apply some glue of your choice, and hold in place with tape or similar until it dries. Good glue candidates are typical white PVA or yellow wood glue, 5 or 15 minute epoxy, E6000 goop adhesive, CA with filler, etc. You want something decently strong, gap-filling, and able to deal with the carbon left by the laser cut. This switch is critical to easy repeatable operation of your bot! (But not actually necessary! Strange, but true.) When the glue dries, you should have a structurally complete PrintrBot LC or PrintrBot Plus!

I'm not sure right now, but I think this completes the Bridge Assembly! Congratulations!
More TODO??(Let me know, been a long session!) Couplers and Vertical threaded rods will be in the Final Assembly notes Step. The Y axis drive Belt and table are also to be covered in the Final assembly step. But these are ALSO extremely similar to the PB Original, for which both Brooks videos and my text already exists. So if ya cannot wait. Just sayin'

Step 5
Extruder Assembly
See Brook's Build Video for the PB original. (Build 12-14 I think?) The Extruder Assembly is the same for all models of PrintrBot, and he briefly mentions the fact that on the Wood model PB's, the mounting screws go opposite of the way he shows in the Video. They go up in the Orig, and DOWN in the LC and PLUS.
NOTE: He also incorrectly says to use 1" screws (25mm) to mount the Ubis Hot End to the Extruder Body. But he is Using 3/4" (19mm), which ARE the correct size to use. One Inch screws will greatly increase the likelihood of the Extruder Body base cracking. If that's all you have in your Kit (as that WAS the old BOM part spec), BE SURE to pre-drill with a 1/8" (3mm) drill bit!

IMPORTANT NOTE: Don't mount your stepper to the Extruder Assembly until AFTER you have fastened the extruder body to the Carriage! The stepper motor wires should exit upwards and to the right. Check for this orientation before you mount the stepper to the Extruder body (EXTR)

Step 6
Final Assembly Notes
Steps TODO:

Step 6a
Z Axis: Couplers, Vertical Threaded Rods and nuts. Until these get written and added here have a look at my PB original Build posts. I've covered it pretty extensively already for that model, and it basically *translates* to the LC and Plus rather directly.
Here's a quick note on the Z nuts, since there have already been at least two builders confused about them. They sit UNDER the NSPC with two of the the six points of its Hex in the short vertical slots of the Rod End Plate (REPC or REPP) and the X Plate Bridge (XPLC or XPLP).

Step 6b
PrintBed and Y Axis drive Likewise for this section. for now, check the Text and video for the PrintrBot original. One quick note. Be sure to shave the GUID down a bit so that it does not get caught only partways down the hole in the bearings. The vertically laminated parts are WEAKEST in the pull apart vertical direction. Which is the direction you'll be using if it gets stuck and you try to pull it out to shave it down!

6c Cabling and Wiring Don't necessarily trust the emerging photos of wiring/cabling paths. Some I've seen do not depict the best routing choices.

6d Hot end connections When mounting the Hot End to the Extruder body, have the wires exit directly LEFT, and through the large hole in the LEFT GUSSet.That's what the hole is for!

6e Heated Bed set up. Be SURE your thermistor is in GOOD contact with the underside of the Heat Bed, and that it STAYS in good contact during motion and after heating up. Otherwise you will get under reported temperatures in the software.

6f First power up! Check and RE-CHECK ALL cabling BEFORE Applying the Power the first time! Press the reset button on the PrintrBoard.

TODO's nearly complete!

See my post in this section of the Forum under Mounting End Stops for some added considerations and details. TODO link

CL1
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LC and Plus assembly notes

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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby crow8888 » 2012-Apr-Fri-04-Apr

I recieved my plus, and have it 85% complete, but cannot find pictures to describe the
Z axis nut positions. Do these mount above or below the small wooden pieces that have the laser engraved "+" symbol? A picture showing this assembly would be very much appreciated.

Please also explain what hardware is used where with regards to the 5/16-18 bhcs and 5/16-18 bolts with the head that have flats? They look like they could work in a few places but what is correct?

Has anyone else gotten only a few square 6-32 nuts (I recieved just 8) and not enough 6-32 hex nuts(I recieved around 24).
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby Marcus » 2012-Apr-Fri-05-Apr

(Thanks for working on this!)
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby CL1 » 2012-Apr-Fri-07-Apr

crow8888 wrote:I recieved my plus, and have it 85% complete, but cannot find pictures to describe the
Z axis nut positions. Do these mount above or below the small wooden pieces that have the laser engraved "+" symbol? A picture showing this assembly would be very much appreciated.

They mount below the NSPP (Nut Support Plate Plus) parts with the + on them. Optionally, a spring around the threaded rod above the NSPP and two additional 5/16 nuts can be put in the related slots up top to create a sort of anti-backlash setup for the Z axis. I wouldn't bother.
Please also explain what hardware is used where with regards to the 5/16-18 bhcs and 5/16-18 bolts with the head that have flats? They look like they could work in a few places but what is correct?

The Button Head Cap Screw (Black oxide) serves as the IDLER pulley axle. It is mounted with the Button HEAD inside/under the REPP (Rod End Plate Plus) Which has the serpentine curve to match the XPLP (X PLate Plus/Bridge) outline.

The original design used a common hex-head bolt. But it was discovered that due to the changes made when the 12mm vertical rods were added, that there wasn't enough room for it anymore. Since this was discovered late in the delivery cycle (PB originals and LC's going first, the BHCS solution was added to existing semi-complete packages. This means you may have two 5/16-18 x 1-1/4" screws,one with Button head, one with hex. Only the Button head is used.

The only other 5/16 screw I can think of right now is the Hex head Hobbed bolt for the Extruder. It is 1-3/4" or so long, and the Hobbing is obvious. So dis-assemble a bit and put the 5/16 BHCS through the 5/16 hole on the right of the X Plate from the FRONT with the threads pointing to the rear. Then add a hex nut and tighten the nut fully. You won't need to hold the button head at all. It will tighten right up. Then add a small washer, then the large fender washer, then a 608 bearing to be the idler, and then a 2nd large Fender washer. Finally you should have one 5/16 Nylock locknut to hold the items comprising the Idler together. You may not need the small washer. You may find some small interference between the Button head and the Right NSPP. I don't find it to be a problem, but I know Brook had some of th eBHCS ground with a small flat to completely remove the interference. YMMV.
Has anyone else gotten only a few square 6-32 nuts (I recieved just 8) and not enough 6-32 hex nuts(I recieved around 24).

I'm sorry to hear that! You certainly need quite a few more than that. I use all square nuts for the base assembly, and quite a few in the Bridge too. I Do use hex where the rounded tops of the Xplate make the square nut unattractive.

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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby Rosebug » 2012-Apr-Sat-11-Apr

Pictures please!
Visual learner and don't know what some of the parts are called!
This is a pic of what I received, you got some that I did not.
Image
https://sites.google.com/site/mrosebug/printrbot/PartsUnpacked.jpg?attredirects=0

Here is my progress so far.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tt99G16Ats8&feature=youtu.be
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby j45on » 2012-Apr-Sat-11-Apr

Rosebug wrote:Pictures please!


I know what you mean , I don't have mine yet and reading and these instructions with out pictures is a little confusing.
Are the parts marked with names ?
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby CL1 » 2012-Apr-Mon-12-Apr

Rosebug wrote:Pictures please!
Visual learner and don't know what some of the parts are called! This is a pic of what I received, you got some that I did not.

Here's a start. You are definitely missing some key parts, nearly all are covered under the one part called COMS. Ask Brook/Printrbot for A COMS to be sent and also two NSPC's. I've put XX on the pic over two parts which are actually meant for an Original PB. These hold the PCB in that model to the threaded rods. You don't need them unless you plan to print a plastic PB!
PartsUnpacked-w-Labels.jpg


The two big red arrows point to the Hole in the Deck for the Z actuating screw, and the two holes for the related switch. These MUST line up when you build the base AND they have to end up with the hole at left rear. (I see you've already got yours built in the vid. Check that the DOGL will come down *near* the hole in the deck. You're missing the SHOE part which glues to the end of the DOGLeg, and has a hole for an actuating screw which goes through this hole to the switch below. You're also missing the ZLMT spacer for that switch. Both of these are part of COMS.

I am so very sorry to see all the packages missing parts and the remainng lack of clear instructions. Briefly watched your video and can say that you DO have the DOGL in the correct place, and you ARE missing a vital part to keep the screw from collapsing the XMPL towards the XPLC. The XMPS (X Motor Plate Support) is the part you're missng and wishing for at the end of your video. It is part of the COMS, You will need the COMS parts and the NSPC's to complete your build.

(edit: PBED is incorrect. PBDC is the LC bed. It's hard to say if you have the correct bed or not. The defining characteristic of the LC bed is straight sides, where the PBED for the original has the side indents as seen in your picture. But it's possible that the bed in your pic will work. Only Brook could say at this point. )

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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby CL1 » 2012-Apr-Mon-12-Apr

j45on wrote:
Rosebug wrote:Pictures please!

Are the parts marked with names ?

They are now! ;) At least the ones she received. :(

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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby cahorton » 2012-Apr-Mon-23-Apr

Just got mine today. So far I seem to be missing one linear bearing (10 vs 11). Are the parts in the attached picture the COMS parts? Otherwise, I have the same wooden parts as Rosebug EXCEPT for the ones you XXed out, and I appear to have a different bed.

COMS.jpg
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby Rosebug » 2012-May-Tue-01-May

Wow! thank you!
I would not have even know what to ask for!
I found a use for the XX pieces!!
They might hold the circuit board in under the base.
I did not use PCMT til too late (was not going to unscrew 15 screws!) so glued it in and those two XX will level it out at other end.

I jerry-rigged the xmps motor support bit with an extra long screw and 4 nuts.
I have an extra cylinder that the rods go in, at least I hope it is extra!
Now, how do I go about getting those parts?
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby cahorton » 2012-May-Tue-03-May

I'm up to step 1c on my PrintrbotLC. I need to stop by home depot to get more square nuts before I can finish.

Some comments & hints based on what I've learned so far. First, photos here:

http://flic.kr/s/aHsjzFtkXp

I didn't upload them here because of the size limit. They're based on CL1's instructions which are great if you PAY ATTENTION (which I didn't do the first time around, and accidentally put the back panel on flipped. It's now been fixed in the pictures ;-)

[EDIT: Note that when the instructions say LEFT during the PCMT step, it means both to your left if assembling per the instructions, and the left side of the base if you stand it up and are facing the front]

Two questions:
1) I count 29 places for square nuts in the base, but the BOM only says we get 26 (and I only have 25, doh!). Is the BOM count wrong or maybe in step 1c are we not supposed to fasten the deck to the plate? I interpreted "add the rest of the screws and nuts to fill all holes" to mean attaching the plates to the deck and the sides which would use 29 nuts.
2) Maybe a dumb question, but is the Printrboard mounted facing up or down in step 1e (not there yet). It seems like it would be impossible to attach the cables once the board is in place if mounted up.

-c
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby PxT » 2012-May-Tue-10-May

cahorton wrote:2) Maybe a dumb question, but is the Printrboard mounted facing up or down in step 1e (not there yet). It seems like it would be impossible to attach the cables once the board is in place if mounted up.


It should be facing down (i.e. so that the face of the board points down towards the ground when everything is assembled). That way you have access to the power connectors, reset button, etc.
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby CL1 » 2012-May-Tue-15-May

cahorton wrote:Are the parts in the attached picture the COMS parts? Otherwise, I have the same wooden parts as Rosebug EXCEPT for the ones you XXed out, and I appear to have a different bed.

Thank you for the Pic! Attached is your Pic with added Labels. That should answer the COMS question? I'll bet your bed has straight sides? If so, it is the *standard* LC PrintBed, PBDC (PBeD lC).

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Mistake: RosebuD on pic should say RosebuG. I'll try to fix it later, after answering current issues.
COMS-w-Labels.jpg
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby CL1 » 2012-May-Tue-15-May

Rosebug wrote:Wow! thank you! I would not have even know what to ask for!

You're Welcome!
I found a use for the XX pieces!! ...They might hold the circuit board in under the base. ...and those two XX will level it out at other end.

You could do that, but it WILL put stress on the PCB because the 2 PCMT will add up to about 1/2" (12mm), but the PCMT ends up at 5/8"(16mm) off the Deck when properly installed. Instead, Use the PCMT for the left end, (with the arrow facing the FRONT) and use the two 5/8" (16mm) tall cream colored Nylon cylinders with one 6-32 and one 3mm screw to support the other end of the PrintrBoard. This is MUCH preferred to using the stacked PCMT's.
I did not use PCMT til too late (was not going to unscrew 15 screws!) so glued it in and those two XX will level it out at other end.

You only have to remove the left Z stepper to access the single screw which holds the PCMT to the Left BSTR. But I think you have to unscrew the 15 screws anyways because your base is built inside out, according to your EP3 video? See the LC and Plus Assembly note up above this post. Refer to Step 1, where I caution against this possibility. Built as seen in your video, the 6-32 screw going THROUGH the SHOE glued to the Dogleg will not actuate the Z endstop switch. :(
I jerry-rigged the xmps motor support bit with an extra long screw and 4 nuts.

I saw that. Nice thinking! You don't need a longer screw, just the 2 added nuts until your COMS and *other* new/replacement parts arrive.
I have an extra cylinder that the rods go in, at least I hope it is extra!

If by Cylinder, you mean Linear Bearing; that is indeed an *extra* that Brook includes for two reasons. Both are covered in my Build instructions in this ASSEMBLY TALKS section of the Forum. Find it in my WIP Original PB Build instructions for the Carriage assembly.
Now, how do I go about getting those parts?

Write to BROOK and put a subject heading like NEED MISSING PARTS FOR MY LC KIT ASAP! to be sure it gets through the noise of his email folder. Do NOT use the Kickstarter email to try to reach Brook! USE the printrbot.com email system! I'll tell him directly to look for it. Ask for: 1-COMS, 2-NSPC,1-PBDC (LC Printbed), 1-BSTR and 1-PCMT and as many SQUARE nuts as you need. These last two listed wooden parts will replace the two you may not be able to use since you tried (valiantly!)to fix the issue of lost parts by Gluing them together! Tell him CL1 sent you.

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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby CL1 » 2012-May-Tue-16-May

cahorton wrote: First, photos here: http://flic.kr/s/aHsjzFtkXp
I didn't upload them because of the size limit. They're based on CL1's instructions which are great if you PAY ATTENTION ;-)

Thank you!
One mistake I made in 1b was putting the PCMT on the wrong side. The instructions say LEFT which means the left side of the base if you have it oriented toward you per the instructions, vs the left side of the base if you are facing the front (which is how I interpreted it, wrongly). The PCMT should be on the side that has the oval hole on the back plate.

Actually, I meant LEFT as you are facing the FRONT (In standard operators position of the completed unit). I didn't see your pics yet, but I'm thinking you also have your base built inside out :oops: I think I better clarify that step! When you first lay out the three large Base assembly parts; RRLC, DEKC, and FNTC. You will be looking at them from the INSIDE, so LEFT WILL BE LEFT, both now AND at completion. The RRLC is closest to you with the FOOT side TOWARDS you AND the two Endstop holes at LEFT(Marked with a red triangle in the Rosebud Parts pics). The DEKC ALSO has the red triangle marked hole to the LEFT AND TOWARDS THE RRLC plate. The FNTC is symmetrical, so it can go either way. Put its best looking side DOWN TOWARDS the work surface. Again, you are looking at this point from the INSIDE of the three parts. Left remains left through the whole build.

This pic DOES show the correct initial layout of the three main Base Assembly parts. http://www.flickr.com/photos/cahorton/6984909668/in/set-72157629938516993 Leave the RRLC on the worktable as you add the two L-shaped sub-assembly of BSTR and LRDC. Then put the FNTC on top. Finally rotate this whole base sub-assembly AWAY from you towards the table surface to meet the Deck which is still laying flat on the worktable. Otherwise you may end up with an inside-out build.

UNfortunately, this pic DOES confirm an inside-out build :( http://www.flickr.com/photos/cahorton/6984915796/in/set-72157629938516993/
In this picture, left is the rear, and right is the front. We are actually looking at the TOP of the deck, and the OUTSIDES of the FNTC and RRLC.

Two questions:
1) ...Is the BOM count wrong or maybe in step 1c are we not supposed to fasten the deck to the plate? I interpreted "add the rest of the screws and nuts to fill all holes" to mean attaching the plates to the deck and the sides which would use 29 nuts.

I'd bet the BOM count is wrong. Your interpretation of what I wrote seems correct!
2) Maybe a dumb question, but is the Printrboard mounted facing up or down in step 1e (not there yet). It seems like it would be impossible to attach the cables once the board is in place if mounted up.

Given the complete lack of instructions you received with your kit, I'd find it VERY difficult to call any Question Dumb at this point! PxT has given you the correct answer. I'll add that when I designed the PrintrBoard mounting arrangments, I also noted that the Driver chips are designed to use the PCB for heatsink purposes, spreading the heat to the bottom layer. But heat rises! So by putting the PCB with the plain non-component side UP in the final assembly, this heat naturally rises through the 40mm *fan slots* of the deck.

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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby cahorton » 2012-May-Tue-16-May

Doh! That's what you get for doing it at 1am. I looked at my pictures and had it laid out right but must have flipped it without thinking when I put it together. I'll fix it tonight and upload new pictures.
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby cahorton » 2012-May-Wed-00-May

Ok it's fixed and I've put up replacement pictures in the same location. The last link in your previous post is now broken because I deleted that picture in order to avoid confusing people.
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby cahorton » 2012-May-Wed-03-May

I made it through the base assembly. I think I figured out everything except I'm not 100% about one detail regarding the Y stop switch. The instructions don't say whether its should be mounted facing toward the front or back of the base. Given the cable holes, the answer is almost certainly forward (like this? http://www.flickr.com/photos/cahorton/6988592138/ ), but it would be good to be explicit about this.

I've added more pictures to my printrbot Flickr set so it now goes through all the base assembly steps. Another hint: long tweezers or narrow needle nose pliers will be very helpful when trying to place all the square nuts.

-chris
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby PxT » 2012-May-Wed-10-May

cahorton wrote: The instructions don't say whether its should be mounted facing toward the front or back of the base. Given the cable holes, the answer is almost certainly forward (like this? http://www.flickr.com/photos/cahorton/6988592138/ ), but it would be good to be explicit about this.



Forward. That picture looks correct.
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby cahorton » 2012-May-Thu-02-May

PxT wrote:Forward. That picture looks correct.


Great, thanks. I wasted, err... spent an hour bolting the Z and Y limit switches down just because. This involved lots of filing and hack-sawing (including trimming bolts) because the clearance was so tight. And in case anyone else cares, #4 bolts are ever so slightly wider than the holes in the switches, but can work without breaking anything if you're careful.

CL1, I've made it through the Tool Assembly (photo pool updated, too). Any hope of seeing the Carriage Assembly instructions soon? BTW, I believe I've used 33 square nuts (and cleaned out Home Depot ;-) following the directions just to this point, so maybe the team at HQ should double check what should be included because the BOM ( http://printrbot.com/files/2012/04/Prin ... eet1-2.pdf ) says 26.

Also, two people commented on my "finished" photos of the Base Assembly, pointing out that the bearings are not attached by the last step. Maybe they should be attached before the printrboard gets mounted? If so, can you provide instructions on the proper way to do that?

Thanks for your help so far! Please keep whatever instructions you can coming, and I'll keep posting pictures as I (hopefully) decipher them.

-chris
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby andrewboudreau » 2012-May-Thu-11-May

I've put about 2 days into my build so far and realized last night i hooked up z-motors into the wrong locations. In addition i broke both pulleys trying to get them off the motor shafts. DOH, well know i understand better how this thing works at least.

So, CL1, thanks for the notes! I was pretty lost at the LC base assembly but eventually figured it out from your notes. Does anyone have some pictures of the completed LC assembly? I'm just having a hard time finding a complete set of photos and there are a few pieces i'm not understanding. The wiki tutorial is lacking photos to say the least.

Additionally, how do i get two more pulleys for the motor shafts? Anyone want to print them for me so i can get mine up and running, message me i'm happy to trade for them? The part that takes the hex bolt and nut snapped off the while trying to remove the pulley. I'm going to continue the build without the screw as the pulley still fits really snug. I can print those new ones first off if this temporary solution works. My assumption is that the cable will skip but i'll have to wait and see what happens when i re-arrange the motors and continue on with the build.

Additionally, the motor i've attached to the bridge assembly is very snug fit, i guess i have to trim the shaft a touch but will have to go to my friends garage to do so. I'm also go to try and flat my motor but i don't want to do that until after i get or print a new pulley since i'm afraid the fitting slip for sure if i do before i get a new part.
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby PxT » 2012-May-Thu-11-May

andrewboudreau wrote:Additionally, how do i get two more pulleys for the motor shafts? Anyone want to print them for me so i can get mine up and running, message me i'm happy to trade for them?


Which part do you need exactly? This - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6822 ?
PM me your address and I can print a couple for you.

Which part do you need pictures of? I have an assembled PB+, so there would be some differences between that & the smaller LC but I can post pictures of any part that you need.
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby cahorton » 2012-May-Thu-15-May

PxT wrote:Which part do you need pictures of? I have an assembled PB+, so there would be some differences between that & the smaller LC but I can post pictures of any part that you need.


I know you weren't asking me, but anything you can share picture-wise for parts that don't have instructions would be great! Also any hints about do X before Y...
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby RussNelson » 2012-May-Thu-17-May

I'm wondering if a Wiki wouldn't be a better way to document the instructions on building a Printrbot? I'd be happy to set it up.
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby PxT » 2012-May-Thu-17-May

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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby RussNelson » 2012-May-Thu-17-May

CL1 wrote:Step 1h... For now just BE SURE to keep from pinching, stretching, or otherwise straining or weakening the wires or their connection to the white connector as you continue to build[/b] This is true for ALL wiring from here on out! I've seen several reports from early builders who made this simple mistake. Keep it in mind and Be careful as you work.

I'm thinking it would be a good idea to have an extra pair of holes for each wire close to the switch or motor, so you could use a wire tie to secure the wires during assembly. Even though they're stranded wires, they can still fatigue from bending, and break off. Much better to have them secured.

Thanks for these instructions. Yeah, I missed the linear bearing assembly, and now I have to take the PCB off.
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby RussNelson » 2012-May-Thu-19-May

PxT wrote:You mean like http://www.printrbottalk.com/wiki?

Yeah! Kinda like that! No, wait, exactly like that! Hehe, I've already started to contribute to it. Gonna work on the X axis motor mount now, unless somebody else claims it.

EDIT: http://www.printrbottalk.com/wiki/index ... -end_motor Bridge assembly instructions completed, along with photos.
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby CL1 » 2012-May-Fri-09-May

cahorton wrote:Great, thanks. I wasted, err... spent an hour bolting the Z and Y limit switches down just because. This involved lots of filing and hack-sawing (including trimming bolts) because the clearance was so tight. And in case anyone else cares, #4 bolts are ever so slightly wider than the holes in the switches, but can work without breaking anything if you're careful.

Just want to clarify for those reading that the above relates to an OPTIONAL way to mount the Endstop switches using screws instead of Wire-tyes, and as such the cutting and filing described is NOT necessary to use your PrintrBot LC successfully!

CL1, I've made it through the Tool Assembly (photo pool updated, too). Any hope of seeing the Carriage Assembly instructions soon?

Thank you for the photos and updates! VERY helpful. I just finished the Carriage notes and made some changes to the Base Assembly Build too. Also made some changes to the WIKI additions Russ added for the X motor and X Idler sections of the Bridge assembly.

BTW, I believe I've used 33 square nuts (and cleaned out Home Depot ;-) following the directions just to this point, so maybe the team at HQ should double check what should be included because the BOM ( http://printrbot.com/files/2012/04/Prin ... eet1-2.pdf ) says 26.

Please cut this and send it directly to the email info@printrbot.com with an eye-catching subject heading like LC BOM IS WAY OFF ON NUTS! CLEANED OUT HD AND NEED MORE!

Also, two people commented on my "finished" photos of the Base Assembly, pointing out that the bearings are not attached by the last step. Maybe they should be attached before the printrboard gets mounted? If so, can you provide instructions on the proper way to do that?

Done. See above reply. I usually mount the PrintrBoard later (And in the Plus it doesn't get in the way!), but I wanted something to connect the Z Motors cable to as it is already prone to failure with only minor jolting. I've seen even *experienced* builders make an *unknown* mess of things by not being careful with the wiring hanging out during the build, so I wanted to get that wiring and connector Destination in place perhaps a little too eagerly.

Thanks for your help so far! Please keep whatever instructions you can coming, and I'll keep posting pictures as I (hopefully) decipher them.

Thank you Chris! Between the Notes and the WIKI we're pretty close on the LC, and with some pics the Plus will be close too. Russ left the idler out of his idler end WIKI additions: shortly presented from rearmost to front it goes like this: 5/16x1-1/4" Hex Bolt, Large Fender Washer, 608 Bearing, Large Fender washer, 5/16 Nut, through hole in XPlate, 5/16 Nut. Keep the rounded edges of the washers inward. Use the head of the Bolt to set the Idler pulley smoothness, and the two nuts against each other with the Xplate between to lock things down.

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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby ivoriv » 2012-May-Fri-16-May

thanks CL1 and crew, couldn't have got as far as I have without this resource. One question though:

For the Z-feed nut, the one on the threaded rods, is it mounted on the bottom of the bridge or inside?
Another way to phrase this is does it go on top or below the wooden piece with the hole for the threaded rod...

With the forces at play, below makes sense but already built it inside...
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby CL1 » 2012-May-Fri-16-May

ivoriv wrote:One question though: For the Z-feed nut, the one on the threaded rods, is it mounted on the bottom of the bridge or inside?
Another way to phrase this is does it go on top or below the wooden piece with the hole for the threaded rod...
With the forces at play, below makes sense but already built it inside...

Yes, Below the NSPC. How did you get it inside?! If it is just between the XPLC and the REPC you can simply spin the motor shaft to cause it to *crawl up* the threaded rod until you can reach it and spin it the rest of the way off. It sits under the NSPC with two of the the points of its Hex in the short vertical slots of the REPC and XPLC. Note: All names here are for LC, use a P as the last letter to get the Plus names.

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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby ivoriv » 2012-May-Fri-16-May

CL1 wrote:
ivoriv wrote:One question though: For the Z-feed nut, the one on the threaded rods, is it mounted on the bottom of the bridge or inside?
Another way to phrase this is does it go on top or below the wooden piece with the hole for the threaded rod...
With the forces at play, below makes sense but already built it inside...

Yes, Below the NSPC. How did you get it inside?! If it is just between the XPLC and the REPC you can simply spin the motor shaft to cause it to *crawl up* the threaded rod until you can reach it and spin it the rest of the way off. It sits under the NSPC with two of the the points of its Hex in the short vertical slots of the REPC and XPLC. Note: All names here are for LC, use a P as the last letter to get the Plus names.

CL1


ahhh, that's what those slots are for.

It fits in there with the flush sides of the hex against the walls but upon closer inspection is causing some unwanted gaps.

Thanks for the quick reply!
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby RussNelson » 2012-May-Fri-20-May

CL1 wrote: Also made some changes to the WIKI additions Russ added for the X motor and X Idler sections of the Bridge assembly.

Thanks! I figured that I would make some mistakes, but I also figured that, being a Wiki, they were easily fixed.

Please cut this and send it directly to the email info@printrbot.com with an eye-catching subject heading like LC BOM IS WAY OFF ON NUTS! CLEANED OUT HD AND NEED MORE!

Yeah, I tried three local hardware stores, and only HD carries them, only in pairs, and they don't stock anywhere near enough. I used hex nuts. They seem to secure well enough. Is there any reason why I should ask the printrbot folks for a supply of square nuts?

Russ left the idler out of his idler end WIKI additions: shortly presented from rearmost to front it goes like this: 5/16x1-1/4" Hex Bolt, Large Fender Washer, 608 Bearing, Large Fender washer, 5/16 Nut, through hole in XPlate, 5/16 Nut. Keep the rounded edges of the washers inward. Use the head of the Bolt to set the Idler pulley smoothness, and the two nuts against each other with the Xplate between to lock things down.

I did?? Oh noes! I was working off the photos that were on the wiki page, and they neglected their idler bolt as well. I can see that I have more wikifiddling to do!
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby RussNelson » 2012-May-Sat-00-May

CL1 wrote:Russ left the idler out of his idler end WIKI additions: shortly presented from rearmost to front it goes like this: 5/16x1-1/4" Hex Bolt, Large Fender Washer, 608 Bearing, Large Fender washer, 5/16 Nut, through hole in XPlate, 5/16 Nut. Keep the rounded edges of the washers inward. Use the head of the Bolt to set the Idler pulley smoothness, and the two nuts against each other with the Xplate between to lock things down.

IMHO, there needs to be some sort of spacer between the Large Fender washers and the 608 Bearing, otherwise the idler pully is rubbing on the fender washers. A standard washer seems to work fine.
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby cahorton » 2012-May-Sat-02-May

CL1: awesome! Thanks for the additional instructions. I might have finished the bridge tonight but I ran out of nuts again. I did send an email to info alerting them to the issue.

Today's lesson: zip-tie positioning matters. Let's just say it's a good thing I had my own supply. I had to redo them a number of times on the bridge because I wasn't thinking about where the bridge motor, belt, or other parts were going. You addressed most of that in your instructions, but it might be good to give specific recommendations (e.g. front, middle).

I uploaded pictures for the carriage assembly. BTW, at least for me doing the 4 nuts in the front plate was easy - I placed the nuts right over the holes while the pieces were almost put together and the front plate was down (see picture), then snapped the front plate up.

I'm not going to do bridge photos since Russ has that covered. Thanks Russ!

-chris
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby RussNelson » 2012-May-Sat-21-May

CL1: please check the X bridge instructions at http://www.printrbottalk.com/wiki/index ... bot_X-axis -- I uploaded some new photos with the fixes you suggested.
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby CL1 » 2012-May-Sun-22-May

RussNelson wrote:CL1: please check the X bridge instructions at http://www.printrbottalk.com/wiki/index ... bot_X-axis -- I uploaded some new photos with the fixes you suggested.

Just had a look and added some pretty strong words opposing the added washers. Nothing personal at all, but the added washers create more problems than they solve! Would be great if those pics could be deleted for now and updated with the *standard* PrintrBot build which doesn't use them as soon as possible. I DO appreciate your efforts and willingness to add to the wiki. We just disagree on this point, and since these are at least the semi-official directions for now we should stick the standard, Brook approved build, which has no washers between the bearing and large fender washers.

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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby cahorton » 2012-May-Mon-02-May

Just uploaded images for the Z assembly and Printbed at the usual place (http://flic.kr/s/aHsjzFtkXp).
Z assembly (instructions with BOM) starts here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/cahorton/7001506608/
Printbed (instructions with BOM) starts here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/cahorton/7149122635/

As I mentioned before, I'm not doing photos for the bridge since Russ has that covered (and mine is built!).

I think the last thing I have left to do is run the cables and hook up the power supply. I may do one more set of photos on the cabling otherwise that's probably it! Maybe I'll also try to do a final count of nuts/bolts since (as of today) the BOM is off by a factor of 2 on nuts and I ran out of various bolts along the way.

If someone feels moved to take my pictures from flickr and put them into the wiki, please do. They're CC non-commercial.

Today's hint #1: check your screws have room before tightening them, when they fit inside the laser cut wood. I had a few instances where the screws fit EXACTLY into the groove, which meant any tightening would cause the shaft to push into the piece with the nut, possibly breaking the wood. I had to file the screws down so this wasn't a problem.

Hint #2: If you lose a ball-bearing from a linear bearing, it is possible to put it back! Tap the linear bearing on the table opening-down so the ball bearings settle to the bottom end. Without tilting the bearing, rotate it around the hole looking inside at the top for the line of ball bearings that has an opening in the top spot (this requires a flashlight or equivalent). Gently tilt the bearing on its side, and carefully position the runaway ball bearing on top of the open spot. Apply gentle pressure to push it back into place. This worked for me after two ball bearings popped out.
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby RussNelson » 2012-May-Mon-20-May

CL1 wrote:
RussNelson wrote:CL1: please check the X bridge instructions at http://www.printrbottalk.com/wiki/index ... bot_X-axis -- I uploaded some new photos with the fixes you suggested.

Just had a look and added some pretty strong words opposing the added washers. Nothing personal at all, but the added washers create more problems than they solve! Would be great if those pics could be deleted for now and updated with the *standard* PrintrBot build which doesn't use them as soon as possible. I DO appreciate your efforts and willingness to add to the wiki. We just disagree on this point, and since these are at least the semi-official directions for now we should stick the standard, Brook approved build, which has no washers between the bearing and large fender washers.

CL1


I see. The nut bearing against the fender washer should not be tight, then. It should be left slightly loose so that the bearing is still free to rotate? Assuming that's true, I've edited the wiki page and taken new pictures accordingly. Could you check it again?
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby RussNelson » 2012-May-Tue-01-May

I added photos to the wiki BOM: http://www.printrbottalk.com/wiki/index ... ntrbot_BOM
Thanks to cahorton for permission to reuse photos (I know he already had them as CC-By-NC, but I wanted to make sure that he was okay putting them here where they're supporting a commercial business).
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby CL1 » 2012-May-Tue-02-May

RussNelson wrote:I see. The nut bearing against the fender washer should not be tight, then. It should be left slightly loose so that the bearing is still free to rotate? Assuming that's true, I've edited the wiki page and taken new pictures accordingly. Could you check it again?


Yes, Those new pics are great! I edited the page as well. At HQ we wait to tighten the jam nut so only one wrench is needed.

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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby RussNelson » 2012-May-Wed-22-May

BTW, if you run short of square 6-32 nuts, and go buy some hex 6-32 nuts, they work fine everywhere except where the CRRC and CRPC come together. Those actually *do* require square nuts, so keep four of them out for that one part.
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby Noah » 2012-May-Sat-21-May

Im very confused about this. the BOM says there are only 26 square nuts and 10 hex for the 6-32 screws required to complete the build. But I ran out of nuts for my 6-32s by the bridge assembly I did a very thorough inventory before i started my build and I know I got everything listed on the BOM and I followed the instructions from this forum to the letter. I dont mind picking up some extra hardware, but im not sure if i did something wrong or not. i actually counted all the nuts on my bot to make sure i used them all up, and i used every single one and im only half way through my build. can anyone tell my why this is?
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby CL1 » 2012-May-Sun-00-May

Noah wrote:Im very confused about this. the BOM says there are only 26 square nuts and 10 hex for the 6-32 screws required to complete the build. But I ran out of nuts for my 6-32s by the bridge assembly I did a very thorough inventory before i started my build and I know I got everything listed on the BOM and I followed the instructions from this forum to the letter. I dont mind picking up some extra hardware, but im not sure if i did something wrong or not. i actually counted all the nuts on my bot to make sure i used them all up, and i used every single one and im only half way through my build. can anyone tell my why this is?

You did nothing wrong! The BOM values of 26 and 10 is WAAAAAaaaaaay off. Somewhere in this thread or under this heading are some builder supplied more accurate BOMs.

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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby RussNelson » 2012-May-Sun-14-May

Noah wrote:Im very confused about this. the BOM says there are only 26 square nuts and 10 hex for the 6-32 screws required to complete the build. But I ran out of nuts for my 6-32s by the bridge assembly I did a very thorough inventory before i started my build and I know I got everything listed on the BOM and I followed the instructions from this forum to the letter. I dont mind picking up some extra hardware, but im not sure if i did something wrong or not. i actually counted all the nuts on my bot to make sure i used them all up, and i used every single one and im only half way through my build. can anyone tell my why this is?


Easiest fix is to set aside six square nuts (you'll need them later) and go to the hardware store and buy four dozen 6-32 screws. You'll only need about three dozen of them, but they're cheaper by the box. If your shipment was like mine, you'll need a few other things, too. E.g. I used 10mm M3 screws to hold down the bed heater. And I was short two 1 1/4" 6-32 screws.
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby RussNelson » 2012-May-Sun-14-May

It looks like the bed heater has a couple of traces for the thermistor running from the edge to the middle. Has anybody tried soldering the thermistor in the center and using those traces to bring the thermistor wires out the edge?
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby Alexmadsen1 » 2012-May-Sun-14-May

yes,

I soldered the bed heater traces to the thermistor. Not adequate of space for the provided components, but it worked.


viewtopic.php?f=21&t=476&p=3409&hilit=cable#p3409

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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby Noah » 2012-May-Tue-18-May

got what i guess is a filment guide in my kit.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/78665801@N04/7206175138/
Any ideas on how to attach this to my lc?
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby CL1 » 2012-May-Tue-20-May

Noah wrote:got what i guess is a filment guide in my kit.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/78665801@N04/7206175138/
Any ideas on how to attach this to my lc?

That is a ZEST, Z End STop switch mount. Have a look at the mounting endstops thread in this section of the forum to see and read how to install it.

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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby Noah » 2012-May-Tue-21-May

CL1 wrote:That is a ZEST, Z End STop switch mount. Have a look at the mounting endstops thread in this section of the forum to see and read how to install it.

CL1


I have an LC so the ZLMT holds my z stop. I guess I got the ZEST by mistake. It really does look like a filament guide so I didn't pay it any attention when I did my inventory of parts.
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby mia33133 » 2012-May-Wed-12-May

Can someone tell me why the Plus Part equivalent of CVRC would not fit over the pieces in the front of the carriage. It seems that the holes are slightly off center.
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby CL1 » 2012-May-Thu-02-May

mia33133 wrote:Can someone tell me why the Plus Part equivalent of CVRC would not fit over the pieces in the front of the carriage. It seems that the holes are slightly off center.
I'm not sure I understand the question. The CVRP of the plus is the equivalent of the CVRC in the LC. The CVRP has 4 slots. It is not designed to fit over the four tabs of the carriage. That job is done by the CRPL, which is the plus equivalent of the CRPC in the LC.

I'm understanding that you have a Plus model, so the below part references are for the Plus.

Are you saying that your CVRP's do not fit over the 4 Rod Supports, called RSHC and RSLC in the LC, and RSHP, RSPL in the Plus? Each CVRP covers one pair of supports, which include one RSPL (Rod Support PLus and one RSHP (Rod Support Holed Plate.

The four slots of the CVRP should fit the four tabs of the RSHP/RSPL easily. If yours don't, the most likely reason is a bad part. But be sure to try different combinations of the similar parts in both the left and right sides. Also try them *upside down* and *right side* up (The CVRP and RSPL are both symmetrical, while the Hole in the RSHP makes it go only one way. So there can be a better fit by changing the orientation of the symmetrical parts.

If it is a small error, you can perhaps fix it with a file, utility or razor knife. Or a Dremel style rotary tool. I'd apply any fix, adjustment or change to the CVRP rather than the others, since they set important dimensions, while the CVRP only clamps the X smooth Rods.

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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby jwb0001 » 2012-Jun-Thu-09-Jun

CL1 (and other knowledgeable assemblers),

Thanks so much for all the great info/pictures/etc on assembly. I wouldn't have made it through the first step if it wasn't for y'all helping the rest of us out.

One quick question - for Step 4a/1j, where you align the Z rods (Plus model), is it preferable to sand down and shim one of the 12mm holes on the plus to ensure the rods are vertical? One of my rods has an ever-so-slight tilt and for the life of me I can't seem to find any play in my base to adjust it (loosened screws everywhere but on the RDEPs). I've tried swapping around the front plate as well as various tightening procedures and can't seem to get that rod completely vertical. Is vertical alignment important enough (at this step) that I should sand down one of its entry holes and shim the opposite side for a truly vertical rod?

Sorry if this seems a bit picky, I looked around the forum a bit (and youtube videos) and couldn't seem to find any other assembly instructions where this vertical alignment was mentioned. Thanks for any help y'all can provide!

-joe
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Re: LC and Plus assembly notes

Postby CL1 » 2012-Jun-Thu-19-Jun

jwb0001 wrote:is it preferable to sand down and shim one of the 12mm holes on the plus to ensure the rods are vertical?

Would be best NOT to sand the hole at all. You want to keep these and those of the Lower Rod Supports as tight as possible! Do use the assembled bridge as a gauge for parallel and vertical rods.

A better choice would be to sand or cut the tabs narrower or slots wider that deal with the lower supports and maybe the BSTR's if needed to get the rods vertical. That way the screws can still be used to hold whatever adjustment you need, and can be loosened if a re-adjustment is later required.

There is at least one thread here that covers this issue from a troubleshooting direction. I didn't look it up right now. Maybe someone will find it and post a link here?

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