Starting over - sort of

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Starting over - sort of

Postby mcdeal » 2017-Jan-Sun-14-Jan

I pre purchased an original Simple Metal back in the Spring of 2014. I spent the summer playing with prints and software and reading Forums.
Then I had to move to a new house. CHAOS ! For almost a year the new garage was full of boxes, 2 or 3 containing my Printrbot.
Found most of the parts and pieces. I knew I needed some upgrades, Sooo.... 1 aluminum heated bed + thermistor and 1 F5 board. Before I could get things going, I was injured at work.
So now the garage is mostly decluttered, I have a nice corner to set up in, I have found all? of the pieces and none of the instructions and need help getting caught up. I have read a lot on the forums, so I am hopefully on the right track.
HARDWARE - - -
- I installed the new F5 board, which was ordered from Printrbot and should have a working firmware for my SM.
IMG_0021.jpg

- I removed the 4 pin molex power lead. I have ordered a 400 watt 31 amp ATX power supply, which should be here soon.
??? Should I get the 4 pin to 6 pin adapter from Printrbot to complete the connection???
- I attached the bed heater to the recess in the plate after first sandwiching the Thermistor in between the two.???
IMG_0022.jpg

- ??? What are these 2 silver sheets that came in the box???
The F5 board has a 2 screw connection for the bed heater. Do I cut off the connector to use the black and red bare wires ? I think this heater was designed for my old Rev. D board.
To which pins do I connect the Thermistor?

IMG_0027.jpg


I will start on the software and best print settings in my next post.....
Thanks for any help on my almost new project.
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Last edited by mcdeal on 2017-Jan-Sun-13-Jan, edited 1 time in total.
Simple Metal Silver/Grey Assembled
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Starting over - sort of

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Re: Starting over - sort of

Postby RetireeJay » 2017-Jan-Sun-15-Jan

mcdeal wrote:- I removed the 4 pin molex power lead. I have ordered a 400 watt 31 amp ATX power supply, which should be here soon.
??? Should I get the 4 pin to 6 pin adapter from Printrbot to complete the connection???

Your new ATX power supply almost certainly comes with a cable that ends in a 6-pin plug, so no, you don't need (and should not use) an adapter. Just plug 6 pins into 6 pins.

mcdeal wrote:- I attached the bed heater to the recess in the plate after first sandwiching the Thermistor in between the two.???

Sounds about right. Actually, the thermistor should be taped to the bottom of the heater, in intimate thermal contact. Did they provide any Kapton adhesive tape?

mcdeal wrote:The F5 board has a 2 screw connection for the bed heater. Do I cut off the connector to use the black and red bare wires ? I think this heater was designed for my old Rev. D board.

Yes and yes. And for heater circuits, polarity doesn't matter (black and red are interchangeable). (I don't know about the silver sheets).

mcdeal wrote:To which pins do I connect the Thermistor?

The thermistor for the bed plugs in right next to the thermistor for the Hot End. Although a few things are different about the F5, the picture in this post is still useful.
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
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Re: Starting over - sort of

Postby Mooselake » 2017-Jan-Sun-16-Jan

Was your old printrboard broken? The F5 offers different and better connectors, plus the digipots, but is the exact same processor and memory. Your bot won't run any better than it did before, assuming the old board was functional.

Sorry to hear about your on-the-job injury; hope you've healed OK. Hopefully your state's workman's comp is better than ours

Kirk
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Re: Starting over - sort of

Postby New Passion » 2017-Jan-Sun-19-Jan

The two silver sheets are insulation for your heated bed.
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Re: Starting over - sort of

Postby cacb » 2017-Feb-Wed-05-Feb

mcdeal wrote:
??? What are these 2 silver sheets that came in the box???



See this http://arnholm.org/printrbot-heated-bed/
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Printrbot Simple Metal Kit + heated bed upgrade. KISSlicer (Kubuntu/Win7), OctoPrint (wireless Raspberry Pi model B) - http://arnholm.org/
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Re: Starting over - sort of

Postby IB3D » 2017-Feb-Thu-09-Feb

RetireeJay wrote: Actually, the thermistor should be taped to the bottom of the heater, in intimate thermal contact. Did they provide any Kapton adhesive tape?


The printrbot beds have/had an inset cut out to accommodate the thermistor placement between the heater and bed, with that in mind should the thermistor still be placed on the bottom?
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Re: Starting over - sort of

Postby RetireeJay » 2017-Feb-Thu-10-Feb

If your heater is underneath the bed, and there's a well to accommodate the thermistor, then yes the thermistor would go on top, in the well.
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
"My next printer is..." Prusa i3 MK3
User avatar
RetireeJay
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Re: Starting over - sort of

Postby mcdeal » 2017-Feb-Thu-23-Feb

OK - heater bed connected. Thermistor connected 6 pin PCIe from new ATX PS connected AND...
Nothing ! No reaction by my SM, no connection to my computer software.
I checked 110 power from wall to the PS - good. I checked 12 volt power to the 6 pin - Nothing.
And Yes, the power switch is on.

???
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Simple Metal Silver/Grey Assembled
Started April 22, 2014
Waiting on a bed heater . . . .
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Re: Starting over - sort of

Postby RetireeJay » 2017-Feb-Fri-07-Feb

Is the green LED on the Printrboard lit? If not, then probably the problem is that the ATX supply is not coming on. These ATX supplies have a special feature where they can be turned on and off by a low-power relay, but for our purposes we just want them to stay on. There's a large, two-row connector which has the only green wire coming out of the supply. Just use a little piece of wire (or paperclip, etc) to short the green wire to a nearby black wire and that will turn it on.
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
"My next printer is..." Prusa i3 MK3
User avatar
RetireeJay
My next printer is...
 
Posts: 4936
Joined: 2013-Jan-Wed-13-Jan
Location: Greenville, SC
Reputation: 495

Re: Starting over - sort of

Postby Mooselake » 2017-Feb-Fri-07-Feb

ATX power supplies require a jumper before they'll power up. It's been mentioned here many times so searching for "power supply jumper" should find it.

See RJ was typing at the same time I was...

The jumper thing allows a low voltage switch (i.e. no mains power up to the switch panel) to turn the supply off and on. Of course it causes the dreaded vampire power loss that might cost you a buck or two a year and bring an end to civilization as we know it (sorry, just read another clueless article on it, full of "might" "could" etc. used to scare us all. The newer devices have pretty much as small a draw as possible...). ATX supplies are ubiquitous and consequently cheap and easy to find. I use a 29A 12V switching supply that only provides 12V (mine is adjusted to 12V when the bed and hot end heaters are on), but it's a bit trickier to wire up.

Kirk
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