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Printrbot Talk Forum • View topic - Removing Prints

Removing Prints

Discussing what we do with our prints after we make them (clean up, integration, etc)

Removing Prints

Postby wd5gnr » 2014-Jan-Fri-18-Jan

Not sure this falls under post processing, but it is a pain to pull parts off the plate. I use ABS on Kapton. If you squish down good, it is hard to remove. If you don't, you tend to curl when you print. Up until recently I used a "putty knife" to get the prints off after they cool a bit.

I recently was in a "Dollar Tree" (sort of like "Everything's a Dollar") and saw a 4 pack of these little guys which are little more than a straight razor blade and a bit of plastic:
razor.jpg

For a buck I figured why not.

Good news: They will scrape a part up almost instantly after printing. Actually, I use them to just get a start on the edge and then use the putty knife. You may want to let them cool a bit still since they are more likely to warp in handling warm (I think).

Bad news: I got a little aggressive and put a hole in an 8x8 Kapton square that I had been using for a year! Oh well. I pulled another one off and ordered a giant roll of Kapton tape off eBay (not here yet).

I only tore the Kapton once. Got a little carried away. It is amazing how easy it is to separate the print from the bed with a razor blade.

Probably common sense to most of you, but I've never been great on common sense ;-)
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Removing Prints

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Re: Removing Prints

Postby DonaldJ » 2014-Jan-Fri-21-Jan

I use this:

blade.JPG

It's an old knife, not terribly sharp, but the length and the curve of the edge make it easy to go in and wriggle it's way under the print. A slow twist of the wrist and the parts usually come up. If not, it's easy to work your way further under the print.

And it looks badass.
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Re: Removing Prints

Postby DJNOS1978 » 2014-Jan-Tue-07-Jan

this is my tool of choice....
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Re: Removing Prints

Postby ThereWillBprints » 2014-Mar-Wed-05-Mar

Thinking of trying fishing line under the tape to wiggle it off.
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Re: Removing Prints

Postby MrWasabi » 2014-Mar-Wed-06-Mar

Am i the only crazy person who tries to remove the part by hand, and when that fails, i use pliers (dont use enough force to damage the part), and if that fails i blunt object and a hammer?

The last one works every time, rips the part right off and it comes off with ever the slightest tap...
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Re: Removing Prints

Postby thawkins » 2014-Mar-Wed-11-Mar

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Re: Removing Prints

Postby WilsonSmith » 2014-Mar-Thu-04-Mar

This is a great forum post with great information and suggestions. I shall incorporate them into my own 3D printing.
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Re: Removing Prints

Postby stupendousman » 2014-Mar-Thu-07-Mar

I use a pair of pliers on stubborn pieces as well. However, what usually works is one of those small flat-headed screw drivers with a metal handle. Bigger than the kind to fix glasses and watches, but smaller than a regular screw driver. I take and use it like a crow bar, sticking i under parts of the side and gently prying up until it's loose enough to remove.

Every time I try to use a razor blade I ruin the tape cutting into.
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Re: Removing Prints

Postby ThereWillBprints » 2014-Mar-Mon-16-Mar

Flat ended scribes or generic scribes work the best so far. Especially if your print has holes, they come off in seconds. I am now lifting the tape off until the edge of the print and now just wiggle the two in tandem.
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bearing plates printed for fabricated plexi glass print bed (8"×18")
New print are a 274 mm width × 267mm height × 101 depth (will change to 200 mm once verified and I have time)
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Re: Removing Prints

Postby KDog » 2014-Mar-Mon-19-Mar

If you print on glass, you can put the whole plate with the part in the freezer. It pops right off after several minutes.

I gave up on the kapton tape from ebay. It is way too thin, hard to apply and very easy to rip getting parts off. Too much trouble imo. The kapton from Printrbot is much thicker and lasts a long time.
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Re: Removing Prints

Postby 2pandas » 2014-May-Tue-13-May

I use dental floss - but instead of wrapping the ends around my fingers, I wrap them around plastic pens (warpped around pen caps to hold it in place) so I can give it some force without slicing up my fingers :P
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Re: Removing Prints

Postby marmil » 2014-May-Thu-18-May

Might sound funny, but one of my favorite tools for removing prints are some channel locks. Not good for more delicate parts, but sure makes it easy to remove bigger and beefier prints. I turn them so they are flat to the printbed, open the jaws up to an appropriate size for the part to be removed, grab the part at the base and gently twist a bit until it pops right off. And you can get right in there as soon as the print finishes and not accidentally burn your hand on the heated bed.
channellock.jpg

My other favorite tool is a 1" scraper/putty knife type tool that works well to get under a corner or edge.
scraper.jpg
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Re: Removing Prints

Postby redwood » 2014-May-Fri-10-May

I go for the closest tool :)

Could be anything from channel locks, x-acto chiseling blade, car door panel remover, putty knife to a box cutter.
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Re: Removing Prints

Postby bbrown64 » 2015-Jul-Thu-10-Jul

I have replaced 2 6x6 sheets of Kapton in less than 5 months. I keep gouging the tape with my thin putty knife. I purchase a 6"x36yd roll of Kapton from Amazon. I figure there is plenty their for later use. I print in PLA on a heated bed of 60 to 70 degree C. I usually allow the part to set for about a minute and the part just pops off the build plate.
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Re: Removing Prints

Postby Jamie_K » 2015-Jul-Sat-22-Jul

I was having trouble with kapton tape getting gouged or getting bubbles underneath (sort of like cavitation I guess, except the bubbles wouldn't go away).

I've switched to glass and hairspray, where I clamp the glass down on top of the heated bed (Printrbot Metal Simple). I added foil tape so the inductive sensor can find the bed. Then if I'm impatient (which is always) I can remove the glass and cool it more quickly. I really hate waiting for the bed to cool to remove a part, especially if I'm about to print something else. I'd much rather keep the bed hot, swap out the glass plate and print almost right away.

Before I switched to glass, I started printing a little nub on my parts, about 2mm in size near the bottom, so I could get in with a screwdriver and pry it up.
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