e3dv6 on printrbot simple metal

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e3dv6 on printrbot simple metal

Postby lightcontrast » 2016-Oct-Fri-21-Oct

A few weeks ago I bought a e3dv6 hotend for my printrbot simple metal becuase my ubi-ceramic end burned out.

I have followed the thisoldspoon guide to reflashing your arduino with the values exactly (won't let me post the URL because I am a new member, sorry. Also, I'm on Windows, not mac) and was able to successfully download the .hex file into my board via FLIP. edit: something that may be important, is that it says I have to choose teensy++ 2.0 as my board (which it doesn't say in the guide), so I downloaded that driver and it let me compile it. Would the Version of Arduino possibly affect the flashing?

The first time I did it, it said that the temperature was 375 degrees celsius in Cura 15.04.6. I thought that maybe it wasn't temp_sensor 1, but the others, so I decided to change all the other temp sensors to the "5" value as well and re-flashed it. Now the temperature says it is 738 degrees celsius.

I can't think of anything else to try to make it work and I don't know where I'm going wrong. I was told it may be a bad thermistor, is that possible?

My printrbot has a rev F4 board (I made sure I had the right marlin file).

If you would like me to explain how I did anything in particular in greater detail, I would be glad to.

Thanks for your time!

Edit: I decided to check the resistance of my 100K Semitec 104GT2 NTC thermistor and I get 6.5ohms if that helps anybody.
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Last edited by lightcontrast on 2016-Oct-Fri-21-Oct, edited 1 time in total.
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e3dv6 on printrbot simple metal

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Re: e3dv6 on printrbot simple metal

Postby RetireeJay » 2016-Oct-Fri-21-Oct

All types of thermistors used with Printrboards (and probably almost all 3D printers) are "Negative Temperature Coefficient" types, which means that as the temperature goes up, their resistance goes down. So if you see an extremely high temperature (over 300C) that almost certainly means that the board is seeing an extremely low resistance on the thermistor leads.

There could be a couple of causes for this. You might have mixed up the heater and the thermistor; the heater has a very low resistance, and if it's plugged in to the thermistor connector on the board it will give you an extremely high indicated temperature. Or, perhaps more likely, you have a short circuit somewhere: the two wires for the thermistor are either touching each other at some point, or both wires are simultaneously touching some metal such as the heater block.

I'd recommend going back to the first version of the firmware you created, and investigating the problem from the hardware side. EDIT - yeah, 6.5 ohms tells me you have a short. At room temperature the thermistor should be 100,000 ohms (more or less). Or, it could still be that you have swapped the heater and the thermistor leads; 6.5 ohms sounds about right for the heater.
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
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Re: e3dv6 on printrbot simple metal

Postby lightcontrast » 2016-Oct-Sat-10-Oct

RetireeJay wrote:thermistor connector on the board it will give you an extremely high indicated temperature.


First of all, thank you so much for your response.

This was the cause! I don't know how I missed that, but somehow the cables got mixed even after I double checked. I noticed the thermistor has a few bumps in it (very slight), would that affect it at higher temperatures? I used a thermistor attached to a multimeter to test and they had the same output at room temperature, so that is good on that end.
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Re: e3dv6 on printrbot simple metal

Postby RetireeJay » 2016-Oct-Sat-10-Oct

lightcontrast wrote:I noticed the thermistor has a few bumps in it (very slight), would that affect it at higher temperatures?


I assume you mean the wire from the board to the thermistor has a few bumps. I wouldn't worry about that. But do be sure that you support the wires in such a way that the non-stranded wires immediately adjacent to the thermistor and heater block don't get bent back and forth as the printer is working. And arrange the stranded copper wire in such a way that it doesn't get bent back and forth at a single point. Some kind of wire harness or cable chain can prevent that.
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
User avatar
RetireeJay
My next printer is...
 
Posts: 4800
Joined: 2013-Jan-Wed-13-Jan
Location: Greenville, SC
Reputation: 477


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