Anyone tried auto leveling?

Talk about modifications to the printer

Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2013-Dec-Sun-14-Dec

Hi
I have seen that some people use a auto leveling modification where a servo pull out a probe and measure the bed leveling)on their printers and wondering if this is possible to do with the printrboard to?!

Would be nice if this is possible. The firmware wouldn't be the biggest issue I guess. Just need some connection to the board.

Cheers
Jens
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Last edited by nepaholic on 2014-Jan-Mon-11-Jan, edited 1 time in total.
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Anyone tried auto leveling?

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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby Nickies08 » 2013-Dec-Sun-17-Dec

There is already a software version available through matterform. There is a forum discussion on it already. You should be able to find it by searching auto leveling or matterform. I wanted to share the link but tapatalk won't let me paste the link
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby REPRAP SQUAD » 2013-Dec-Sun-17-Dec

Matterhackers has a software download for auto leveling. There is an open spot on the Printrboard that could be used. Next to your endstop plugs you will see an open plug labeled e-stop. If someone wanted to write the firmware it could easily be done. You also can easily do it without adding a servo. The goal should be the least amount of mods to add it on.
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby thawkins » 2013-Dec-Sun-18-Dec

REPRAP SQUAD wrote:Matterhackers has a software download for auto leveling. There is an open spot on the Printrboard that could be used. Next to your endstop plugs you will see an open plug labeled e-stop. If someone wanted to write the firmware it could easily be done. You also can easily do it without adding a servo. The goal should be the least amount of mods to add it on.


If you use a pcb blank upside down connected to ground, and a wire from the nozzel back to e-stop. You can use the extruder itself as a sensor, there is a parameter that sets the z offset used in autoleveling, so you can compensate for the thickness of the pcb. I print ontop of a pcb anyway so it does not worry me. The pcb gives me a removable bed that i can just pickup and flex to release the print. It gives most of the benifits of a metal bed without it leeching heat from the print and causing warping.

The cutting edge version of marlin has already a mod merged to support the above mode of operation. And let the system ignore z stop whilst probing.

I have not tried this yet its on my todo next list. Once i work out how to compile the current version of Marlin to create a printrboard compatable version.


Note also that on the yet unreleased rev f of printrboard, e-stop has been removed.
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby REPRAP SQUAD » 2013-Dec-Sun-21-Dec

Running my nozzle into my platform a few hundred if not thousands of time will put some wear and tare on the hotend. I would rather set it up with an endswitch as a probe using a magnet to fold open and close the switch. Gcode additives would be simple enough
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2013-Dec-Mon-03-Dec

Hi

Well I personally don't like a software solution for this because my printer I operated with a panelolu2.

Reprap squad: do you know what output the endstops have? If I read right the servo need 5 V output and the probe is wired together with the z endstop?!

I read a lot of people use this on their ramps board but I dot find a good information about this board. This board seems very complicated though

Cheers
Jens
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby thawkins » 2013-Dec-Mon-04-Dec

REPRAP SQUAD wrote:Running my nozzle into my platform a few hundred if not thousands of time will put some wear and tare on the hotend. I would rather set it up with an endswitch as a probe using a magnet to fold open and close the switch. Gcode additives would be simple enough


If you can bring out a pwm output, the latest marlin has suport for an rc servo to swing a probe down you can set the up and down angles on the servo. You can wire the probe back into estop. The version i saw was just an arm on the servo with a microswitch mounted on the end. Servo has 3 wires , gnd/5v and digital pwm.
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2013-Dec-Mon-05-Dec

Maybe just wire 5v to a atx power supply and the pwn and ground wore to the e endstop?
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Jan-Mon-12-Jan

I finally have auto bed leveling running.
Wow this is amazing, time to say goodby to manually leveling the bed :)
http://youtu.be/M3A5f316BMs
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby Lemm » 2014-Jan-Mon-12-Jan

looks good, what about a howto ? ;)
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Jan-Mon-12-Jan

Thanks. Well I hooked the servo signal pin to the exp2 header with the number 11 (if you are in front of the board the pin in the upper left) and took grnd and 5v from the atx.
The endstop is in series with the z endstop.

The only problem I have now is that if I have my LCD enabled it won't compile :(
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Jan-Mon-15-Jan

nepaholic wrote:I finally have auto bed leveling running.
Wow this is amazing, time to say goodby to manually leveling the bed :)
http://youtu.be/M3A5f316BMs

Yes, that is nice!
A little info on how to... does the firmware need to be downloaded into the PB board?
What do you use to drive the servo/stepper?
Is the micro switch wired in series with the Z endstop switch?
How is the routine started?
After the auto sensing (leveling) is complete, are the "offset" values stored in eeprom and added to the Z values in the print job?
Does the auto leveling "routine" stop after it is finished and wait for the user to start the printjob, or does the printjob run after autoleveling is completed?

Thanks for the post and video!
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Jan-Mon-16-Jan

pomonabill221 wrote:Yes, that is nice!
A little info on how to... does the firmware need to be downloaded into the PB board?
What do you use to drive the servo/stepper?
Is the micro switch wired in series with the Z endstop switch?
How is the routine started?
After the auto sensing (leveling) is complete, are the "offset" values stored in eeprom and added to the Z values in the print job?
Does the auto leveling "routine" stop after it is finished and wait for the user to start the printjob, or does the printjob run after autoleveling is completed?

Thanks for the post and video!

Hi
Yes you need a new firmware.
I used the actual marlin branch from Eric Zalm where I enabled the auto leveling. I configured it so I can use it with my printer and compiled and uploaded it.

The servo get the signal from the exp2 header (pin 11 on the upper left corner)
And 5v from the atx.

You have to tweak your start gcode in order to get it working.
My process is:
Heat bed and hotend.
G28 x0 y0
G28 z0
G29 start the probing
G1 x0 y0
Wait for temperature
Start print
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Jan-Mon-16-Jan

I have a PBlc+ with the PB printerboard rev.D
I guess I am confused as according to the readme included with the firmware from Eric, he lists many other features like temperature features, SD card features, many other items that don't seem to apply to auto leveling.
Also, he states to download the Arduino IDE and the Marlin firmware. Then run the IDE and select the Arduino Mega 2560... my pb board has a 90usb1286 processor on it.
And then use \*define statements... where does this get done.

Is this for the PB printer at all or another printer?
Sorry for my ignorance, but I would like to try this out, but don't want to brick my printer so I need to know if I should follow the readme instructions.
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PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Jan-Mon-16-Jan

Hi I'm not at home right now so I don't have the link to the firmware I used. Google it and you find it. Then scroll down on github. He explains very well how to use it.
Have you ever flashed your firmware?
There might be pre installed versions of the arduino app here on the forums.
When you open the firmware you can choose what board you have like ramps or printrboard.
Then you have to configure everything in the configuration.h file and write a few lines in the pins.h and you are ready to go.
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby RetireeJay » 2014-Jan-Mon-16-Jan

pomonabill221 wrote:Also, he states to download the Arduino IDE and the Marlin firmware. Then run the IDE and select the Arduino Mega 2560... my pb board has a 90usb1286 processor on it.
And then use \*define statements... where does this get done.

Is this for the PB printer at all or another printer?
Sorry for my ignorance, but I would like to try this out, but don't want to brick my printer so I need to know if I should follow the readme instructions.


You might find some useful info in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=6092

Mind you, I have not myself actually flashed my firmware. But I have installed FLIP and gotten it to connect to the board, and I have installed an up-to-date Arduino Development Environment and gotten it to compile the Unified version of Marlin without errors. Like you, I tend to be super-cautious because I don't want to break something that's working.
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby gmh39 » 2014-Jan-Mon-17-Jan

Would the auto-level need to run before every print?

Or is it something that we can use when we just need to re-level our bots? Like a probe that clips on/off and the auto-level feature stores the values.
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Jan-Mon-17-Jan

You have to run it before every print. But it is no problem because you have it in your gcode. Just install it once and forget it :)
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby gmh39 » 2014-Jan-Mon-18-Jan

True. But my point is that then you need a servo motor which adds more weight.

What I was considering is something that clips on, swings up and down, and secures at top and bottom with magnets. Then when you need to level you just flip it down, run the leveling code, flip it back up.
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Jan-Mon-18-Jan

That's a nice idea. I also had this idea but thrown it because I'm to lazy ;) the servo is nearly no weight at all. I guess it have about 10g
For me it was faster to design a simple servo holder that can be attached to the wade extruder.
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby thawkins » 2014-Jan-Mon-19-Jan

nepaholic wrote:That's a nice idea. I also had this idea but thrown it because I'm to lazy ;) the servo is nearly no weight at all. I guess it have about 10g
For me it was faster to design a simple servo holder that can be attached to the wade extruder.


The repeatability for the position needs to be very very high, and it needs quite a lot of strength to achieve that. Moving arms on servos is going to be fragile, plus servos are not that accurate. Most reports of folk using servos say its problematic. The holding force on a servo is poor, especialy since the force against it will be being applied via a pretty long fulcrum.

A simple flipdown arm with a strong joint, click in end travel, and a strong joint with a bolt through it. Can be easily attached to the side of the extruder. Much more reliable, simpler and easier to use.
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby REPRAP SQUAD » 2014-Jan-Mon-21-Jan

I agree with Ya and it can he designed to fit on various bots a lot easier using that method.
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby thawkins » 2014-Jan-Mon-21-Jan

REPRAP SQUAD wrote:I agree with Ya and it can he designed to fit on various bots a lot easier using that method.


I suspect the microswitch is going to be a long term problem, pressing it into the bed a lot of times is going to bend/deform the actuator arm over time. It would be better removing the arm completly, and just use the little button on the switch body.

Better still would be an optical sensor, but there are issues there too.
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby RetireeJay » 2014-Jan-Mon-21-Jan

thawkins wrote:I suspect the microswitch is going to be a long term problem, pressing it into the bed a lot of times is going to bend/deform the actuator arm over time. It would be better removing the arm completly, and just use the little button on the switch body.

Better still would be an optical sensor, but there are issues there too.


Actually, those arms on microswitches are designed pretty well for that job. They are hinged, not bending, so the force on them is not very great. And (ideally) the deflection stops almost the instant that the switch changes state.

The question I have is how will we calibrate the switch to the extruder? I can understand that the switch does not have to click at the exact ideal printing height; the offset will be taken into account in software. But if we have to replace an extruder, or choose to replace a nozzle, then the correct Z zero for printing moves relative to the trigger point of the switch. What's the procedure for calibration? I see continuing opportunities here for grief as people struggle to make the automatic function really work with their own printer.
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Jan-Mon-22-Jan

Only a arm would be better and easier to do because you only have to install the endstop. I agree with that.

Jay you have to edit the firmware to set the offset.
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Jan-Mon-22-Jan

RetireeJay wrote:
pomonabill221 wrote:Also, he states to download the Arduino IDE and the Marlin firmware. Then run the IDE and select the Arduino Mega 2560... my pb board has a 90usb1286 processor on it.
And then use \*define statements... where does this get done.

Is this for the PB printer at all or another printer?
Sorry for my ignorance, but I would like to try this out, but don't want to brick my printer so I need to know if I should follow the readme instructions.


You might find some useful info in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=6092

Mind you, I have not myself actually flashed my firmware. But I have installed FLIP and gotten it to connect to the board, and I have installed an up-to-date Arduino Development Environment and gotten it to compile the Unified version of Marlin without errors. Like you, I tend to be super-cautious because I don't want to break something that's working.

That thread was helpful, but getting the IDE to function was a little painful for me. It didn't install in the \program files\arduino directory, but I had to manually specify a path... no biggie though.

I have never updated the firmware in my printer before, so I am just being very cautious and trying to learn the method to do so.
Also, the arduino ide is VERY slow to open and the tools menu takes a long time to open... running on a dell e6500 dual core at 3GHz so it isn't a real slow machine, and win7 64 bit 4 gig ram
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PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby thawkins » 2014-Jan-Mon-22-Jan

RetireeJay wrote:
thawkins wrote:I suspect the microswitch is going to be a long term problem, pressing it into the bed a lot of times is going to bend/deform the actuator arm over time. It would be better removing the arm completly, and just use the little button on the switch body.

Better still would be an optical sensor, but there are issues there too.


Actually, those arms on microswitches are designed pretty well for that job. They are hinged, not bending, so the force on them is not very great. And (ideally) the deflection stops almost the instant that the switch changes state.


I think that is the problem, if there is even the slighest delay in the movement shutting off, or any significant overshoot or backlash, its going to apply a bending force to the part of the arm between the point where it contacts the switch knob, and the point of contact with the bed.

Another question is what happens in dual or tripple extruder setups, is its position relative to the first extruder, and the subsequent nozzles relative to that?

Im excited that this is finaly becomming mainstream, im working on a printer right now, and have paradoxicaly just been working on the sprung bed and leveling screws. With this setup it may be worth scrapping all that, just have the bed bolted to the carriage in a fixed position, best effort during build, and leave it to the software to sort it all out. Aside from the cost of the probe, it could make printers cheaper and more reliable.
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225mm x 200mm - Heated Bed
RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin 1.1.0
Full Graphic display.
-------------------------------
Zen Toolworks CNC/3d printer
230mmx360mm bed
Dual j-head hotends.
Dual heated beds.
RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin 0.98
-------------------------------
Flashforge 3d Creator Pro
Dual Extruder
220x143x150mm
Mightyboard rev e, runnimg Sailfish 7.7r1234
-------------------------------
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby gmh39 » 2014-Jan-Tue-10-Jan

I think you are underestimating the durability of the lever arm on the microswitches. They would act in a similar fashion as spring, so you would need to puish them past a certain point for them to be permanently deformed. If you are that worried about it, then you can always just use a microswitch without the lever arm.
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby RetireeJay » 2014-Jan-Tue-11-Jan

gmh39 wrote:I think you are underestimating the durability of the lever arm on the microswitches. They would act in a similar fashion as spring, so you would need to puish them past a certain point for them to be permanently deformed. If you are that worried about it, then you can always just use a microswitch without the lever arm.


Actually, that little actuator button has a significant amount of overtravel built in beyond the point where it clicks. I just tried it out by pushing on the lever arm at the exact place where the button is. I could easily push the combo far enough that the entire lever bottomed out over its full length onto the body of the switch housing. So there is absolutely no concern about the microswitch arm bending due to overtravel or repeated use.


nepaholic wrote:Jay you have to edit the firmware to set the offset.


That's my point: How do you find out the right number to put into the firmware?

I contend that "automatic" bed leveling needs to completely eliminate human interaction with the spacing of the head to the bed (a manually operated swing arm to put the switch in position does not give me much grief, but even that is not truly automatic).

So the only totally automatic solution I can imagine will actually sense the proximity of the nozzle to the bed - or perhaps the touchdown of the nozzle on the bed. How to sense this? Don't know. A conductive bed so you complete a circuit? A strain gauge to detect touchdown? A circuit to sense when the load on the stepper motors has changed? An accelerometer to detect touchdown?
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby KDog » 2014-Jan-Tue-13-Jan

I'm really intrigued by this topic. Check out the video by the smartrap guy: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSmtCz-WMKo

He seems to have it working awesomely!
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby MegaMoonMan » 2014-Jan-Tue-13-Jan

I designed and built a Z endstop that utilized a thin pressure sensor on the bed at the home corner that the hotend would touch. It worked great, but I upgraded my machine and didn't put it back on, since my bed never goes out of level anymore thanks to the upgrades. The key to a level bed is a SOLID bed.
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Jan-Tue-16-Jan

Jay, I copy this from the marlin description
Next you need to define the Z endstop (probe) offset from hotend. My preferred method:

a) Make a small mark in the bed with a marker/felt-tip pen.
b) Place the hotend tip as exactly as possible on the mark, touching the bed. Raise the hotend 0.1mm (a regular paper thickness) and zero all axis (G92 X0 Y0 Z0);
d) Raise the hotend 10mm (or more) for probe clearance, lower the Z probe (Z-Endstop) with M401 and place it just on that mark by moving X, Y and Z;
e) Lower the Z in 0.1mm steps, with the probe always touching the mark (it may be necessary to adjust X and Y as well) until you hear the "click" meaning the mechanical endstop was trigged. You can confirm with M119;
f) Now you have the probe in the same place as your hotend tip was before. Perform a M114 and write down the values, for example: X:24.3 Y:-31.4 Z:5.1;
g) You can raise the z probe with M402 command;
h) Fill the defines bellow multiplying the values by "-1" (just change the signal)

#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -24.3

#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 31.4
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -5.1
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Jan-Wed-02-Jan

And I am assuming that the defines mentioned go into the marlin.h file? Any particular location in the file or just near the end of the auto level section?

remember, Some of us are trying to do this correct, and sometimes the information is given in bits and pieces. I know we don't expect hand holding, but the location of these mods IS important for the firmware to operate correctly.

I just spent a few hours going through most of the *.h files (for my own curiosity) and found the autolevel section in marlin.h, but some of the other entries in the the other H files was interesting as well.....
Is there a way that a dedicated pin on the uP could be used for the probe rather than in series with the Z stop, and how would that be defined in firmware?
Not a biggie but might be nice.
Thanks...
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Jan-Wed-17-Jan

You have to edit the configuration.h file to get it working. If you want to use the e stop pins you have to define it in the pins.h and change the pin to 37
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Jan-Wed-18-Jan

GREAT! Thank you nepaholic for that info! Very helpful and I will give it a try.
Thanks!
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PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Jan-Wed-18-Jan

So in pins.h it would look like this:
(this is the section for motherboard =8 and 81 the printrboard)

#else // Printrboard
#define X_STOP_PIN 35
#define Y_STOP_PIN 8
#define Z_STOP_PIN 36
#define E_STOP_PIN 37 //added to use e stop pin for auto level *******
#define TEMP_0_PIN 1 // Extruder / Analog pin numbering
#define TEMP_BED_PIN 0 // Bed / Analog pin numbering
#endif
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PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby lwalkera » 2014-Jan-Wed-19-Jan

nepaholic wrote:You have to edit the configuration.h file to get it working. If you want to use the e stop pins you have to define it in the pins.h and change the pin to 37


If you use the firmware I posted to the PB Marlin Github page, you can use a M-code to set the probe offset instead of recompiling.
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Jan-Wed-23-Jan

That's nice. Thanks for the info. I right now use the firmware from Eric but will check out yours ASAP
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby thawkins » 2014-Jan-Mon-00-Jan

Just managed to score a OMRON EE-SPY402

Cute device, uses modulated ir to sense proximity, works on 5v to 24v, and has a driven output, in fact you can wire it up straight to the +5, gnd and input pins of the zstop conector, and it just works. I can read the stops with m119 and see it flipping back and forth. Only downside is that it is inverted. When the bed is within about 1cm of the end of the sensor it flips. And simulates a close rather than an open. However it should be eady to connect a reed relay to handle the inversion, it has a class b output which means it will drive a load between either rail.

It seems to be capable of detecting the bed within about 1 cm. It should be feasable to position it reasonably close to the nozzle with a bit of thermal insulation to stop it picking up radiated heat. Im thinking of a small aluminium bracket and mounting it on the opposite side to the hotend.

Its using modulated ir, there is a cheaper version spy302 that is not, but the modulation makes it insensative to ambient ir sources, and means the material its reflecting off is less of a factor. It has a small red led on tbe side so you can visably see when it trips, i have tried it on uncovered bed, covered with both masking tape and blue tape, and it seems to make no difference.

I paid 550peso for it here in philippines, which is about $12-13, expect it to be considerably cheaper in the us.

Im going to get it mounted and see if it works.
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Dual heated beds.
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Jan-Mon-01-Jan

thawkins wrote:Just managed to score a OMRON EE-SPY402

Cute device, uses modulated ir to sense proximity, works on 5v to 24v, and has a driven output, in fact you can wire it up straight to the +5, gnd and input pins of the zstop conector, and it just works. I can read the stops with m119 and see it flipping back and forth. Only downside is that it is inverted. When the bed is within about 1cm of the end of the sensor it flips. And simulates a close rather than an open. However it should be eady to connect a reed relay to handle the inversion, it has a class b output which means it will drive a load between either rail.

It seems to be capable of detecting the bed within about 1 cm. It should be feasable to position it reasonably close to the nozzle with a bit of thermal insulation to stop it picking up radiated heat. Im thinking of a small aluminium bracket and mounting it on the opposite side to the hotend.

Its using modulated ir, there is a cheaper version spy302 that is not, but the modulation makes it insensative to ambient ir sources, and means the material its reflecting off is less of a factor. It has a small red led on tbe side so you can visably see when it trips, i have tried it on uncovered bed, covered with both masking tape and blue tape, and it seems to make no difference.

I paid 550peso for it here in philippines, which is about $12-13, expect it to be considerably cheaper in the us.

Im going to get it mounted and see if it works.

Does the sensor see a glass bed and an Aluminum bed at the same time? I tried an IR detector, and it had a VERY hard time seeing Al, and glass was rather low on reflected energy....
Realize that IR light is a different wavelength than visible, and glass and metal might reflect differently.
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PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Jan-Mon-01-Jan

nepaholic wrote:You have to edit the configuration.h file to get it working. If you want to use the e stop pins you have to define it in the pins.h and change the pin to 37

How does the firmware know what input (pin) to use? If Z switch is defined as a pin, and the E stop is defined on another pin, doesn't the function of the pin have to be defined as well? and where are the pins defined? (X,Y,Z,Estop).
Just a curiosity question...
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PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Jan-Mon-02-Jan

thawkins wrote:Just managed to score a OMRON EE-SPY402

Cute device, uses modulated ir to sense proximity, works on 5v to 24v, and has a driven output, in fact you can wire it up straight to the +5, gnd and input pins of the zstop conector, and it just works. I can read the stops with m119 and see it flipping back and forth. Only downside is that it is inverted. When the bed is within about 1cm of the end of the sensor it flips. And simulates a close rather than an open. However it should be eady to connect a reed relay to handle the inversion, it has a class b output which means it will drive a load between either rail.

It seems to be capable of detecting the bed within about 1 cm. It should be feasable to position it reasonably close to the nozzle with a bit of thermal insulation to stop it picking up radiated heat. Im thinking of a small aluminium bracket and mounting it on the opposite side to the hotend.

Its using modulated ir, there is a cheaper version spy302 that is not, but the modulation makes it insensative to ambient ir sources, and means the material its reflecting off is less of a factor. It has a small red led on tbe side so you can visably see when it trips, i have tried it on uncovered bed, covered with both masking tape and blue tape, and it seems to make no difference.

I paid 550peso for it here in philippines, which is about $12-13, expect it to be considerably cheaper in the us.

Im going to get it mounted and see if it works.

You could use the output to drive an fet or even a transistor to invert the output as well as a reed switch (relay)...
  • 0

PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
pomonabill221
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby thawkins » 2014-Jan-Mon-02-Jan

I must admit, im not using glass or aluminium, i can put a piece of al and glass on my bed and see what happens.

It seems to be accurate to about 0.005 mm, ie there is a position i can reach where moving z up or down by that amount causes it to flip.

Re pricing its a bit wierd, i got it for $12.5, i have seen it in one off for $16 in various places, but mouser lists it as $44 one off. Its an industrial device, probaly not designed for consumer electronics.

Im going to mount it properly, and hook it up to a 74LS04 TTL inverter so it can connect it direct to the zstop. And then see if i can use it first for accurate z homing. I can power both the sensor and the inverter off the zstop power.

If that works, i'll flash the bed leveling code and try it out. Will post video if it looks good.
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Full Graphic display.
-------------------------------
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230mmx360mm bed
Dual j-head hotends.
Dual heated beds.
RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin 0.98
-------------------------------
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby thawkins » 2014-Jan-Mon-09-Jan

thawkins wrote:I must admit, im not using glass or aluminium, i can put a piece of al and glass on my bed and see what happens.

It seems to be accurate to about 0.005 mm, ie there is a position i can reach where moving z up or down by that amount causes it to flip.

Re pricing its a bit wierd, i got it for $12.5, i have seen it in one off for $16 in various places, but mouser lists it as $44 one off. Its an industrial device, probaly not designed for consumer electronics.

Im going to mount it properly, and hook it up to a 74LS04 TTL inverter so it can connect it direct to the zstop. And then see if i can use it first for accurate z homing. I can power both the sensor and the inverter off the zstop power.


If that works, i'll flash the bed leveling code and try it out. Will post video if it looks good.


Well it works, its accurate and repeatable, i ended up using a 220 ohm resistor and a 2n3904 transistor to create an open collector output, that gave the right inversion. Plus i can put the existing zstop in series.

I got it setup and it works as an accurate z stop, but with an offset. I loaded the bedleveling firmware and thats where everything went to hell. It appears that once you load the firmware, there is no off switch for the autoleveling, and it does strange things like move the head to tne center after home. I could not work out how it worked.

I have reverted the firmware, i would like to use it for now as a zstop until i work out more, but i cant seem to be able to handle tne zofset without physicaly positionilng the sensor in tne right place above the bed. I was hoping to be able to do those adjustments in software.

Also the bedleveling code does not seem to implement all the code, g32 is missing which is supposed to report status.
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225mm x 200mm - Heated Bed
RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin 1.1.0
Full Graphic display.
-------------------------------
Zen Toolworks CNC/3d printer
230mmx360mm bed
Dual j-head hotends.
Dual heated beds.
RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin 0.98
-------------------------------
Flashforge 3d Creator Pro
Dual Extruder
220x143x150mm
Mightyboard rev e, runnimg Sailfish 7.7r1234
-------------------------------
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Jan-Mon-13-Jan

That's good news about the opto... did you try glass and Al?
BAD news about the firmware though!
My concern (question actually) is if the opto is being used in series with the Z limit switch, does the opto interfer with the Z switch when the opto is not being used?
Is the Z limit switch even USED at all??? I would imagine that since the autolevel is finding the points on the bed, the firmware would use that value for the Z position.
If not, while Z is homing, does the limit switch trip for home or does the opto trip first (since the two switches are in series, the first one would trip and tell the firmware that "I'm home").
I would rather use the Estop input on the board for the auto level sensor, and leave the Z stop sensor on a separate channel...

So the G code didn't start the autolevel and it didn't stop after it had done it's routine????
  • 0

PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby thawkins » 2014-Jan-Mon-19-Jan

pomonabill221 wrote:That's good news about the opto... did you try glass and Al?
BAD news about the firmware though!
My concern (question actually) is if the opto is being used in series with the Z limit switch, does the opto interfer with the Z switch when the opto is not being used?
Is the Z limit switch even USED at all??? I would imagine that since the autolevel is finding the points on the bed, the firmware would use that value for the Z position.
If not, while Z is homing, does the limit switch trip for home or does the opto trip first (since the two switches are in series, the first one would trip and tell the firmware that "I'm home").
I would rather use the Estop input on the board for the auto level sensor, and leave the Z stop sensor on a separate channel...

So the G code didn't start the autolevel and it didn't stop after it had done it's routine????


i got it to auto-level, IE it went to the 3 points and probed down, but i could not get it to home or print, as regardless of where i set the nozzle offset with m212, it ended up too high. i also could not turn off auto leveling and revert to old scheme without flashing an old version of the code. when i went to home it just moved the head to the middle of the bed.

i think the trick with z is to set your z point to just below the bed.

its really hard to experiment without the turnoff switch, otherwise you are committed.
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225mm x 200mm - Heated Bed
RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin 1.1.0
Full Graphic display.
-------------------------------
Zen Toolworks CNC/3d printer
230mmx360mm bed
Dual j-head hotends.
Dual heated beds.
RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin 0.98
-------------------------------
Flashforge 3d Creator Pro
Dual Extruder
220x143x150mm
Mightyboard rev e, runnimg Sailfish 7.7r1234
-------------------------------
Photon, self designed printed printer.
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Jan-Wed-08-Jan

So after some time I can say that I love this. The prints come out very nice but I still have some trouble with the marlin firmware and printrbot firmware and can't find what is wrong.
The print do not start centered on the bed. My probe has an offset of X33 Y-10 Z-3.60

When the print start the nozzle move to the right side of the bed and print there instead of the center.

I tried to change the offset and changed the values to X-33 Y10 and when I do it the print start on the left side of the bed.

If I change the values to X0 Y0 it start correct but this would give not correct measure.

The other issue I found with the printrbot firmware is if have the accurate bed leveling dissabled(so it do a 3 point measurement) the probe measure two points at the same place on the bed and the third correct.

So right now I only can print with accurate bed leveling (4point) but only print small objects due to the miss placement

I all ready reported this to Eric but didn't heard anything. I even searched the net about this but didn't found anyone who had the same problem.
Maybe my printrboard is the problem?
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby thawkins » 2014-Jan-Wed-11-Jan

nepaholic wrote:So after some time I can say that I love this. The prints come out very nice but I still have some trouble with the marlin firmware and printrbot firmware and can't find what is wrong.
The print do not start centered on the bed. My probe has an offset of X33 Y-10 Z-3.60

When the print start the nozzle move to the right side of the bed and print there instead of the center.

I tried to change the offset and changed the values to X-33 Y10 and when I do it the print start on the left side of the bed.

If I change the values to X0 Y0 it start correct but this would give not correct measure.

The other issue I found with the printrbot firmware is if have the accurate bed leveling dissabled(so it do a 3 point measurement) the probe measure two points at the same place on the bed and the third correct.

So right now I only can print with accurate bed leveling (4point) but only print small objects due to the miss placement

I all ready reported this to Eric but didn't heard anything. I even searched the net about this but didn't found anyone who had the same problem.
Maybe my printrboard is the problem?


Can you post the gcode preamble you are using?
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RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin 1.1.0
Full Graphic display.
-------------------------------
Zen Toolworks CNC/3d printer
230mmx360mm bed
Dual j-head hotends.
Dual heated beds.
RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin 0.98
-------------------------------
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Dual Extruder
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-------------------------------
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Jan-Wed-13-Jan

Ok here it is:
G28 x0 y0
G28 z0
G29
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Jan-Wed-15-Jan

I am confused... (isn't hard these days).... Some have been using the autolevel with no problem, where others have had nothing BUT problems... Can we somehow try and see what the differences are?

Do we still need to use the Z endstop?

Where does it need to be set in relation to the autolevel sensing position (Z stop lower than autolevel/higher/just shorted out).
I am losing faith in this mod since all of the problems have surfaced.

This is what I have come up with... if not correct please someone explain:
During homing, the autolevel switch is not used and is swung out of the way, but still in the circuit (normally closed switch). The Z home switch opens when home.

During autolevel, the autolevel switch is swung down and used and should operate first BEFORE the Z home switch. The autolevel switch opens when touching bed and Z home switch is NOT operated (autolevel switch is lower than home switch so it operates first).

I did ask about changing the autolevel switch to the Estop port and I did get an answer, but I want to know how the firmware knows what pin/port to use as there doesn't seem to be a definition for that. The Zendstop will still have to be set IF it is still used, but my confusion is what does the Z endstop do when you have autolevel? Is my description correct?
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PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Jan-Wed-15-Jan

Hi
Well you do not need the old z endstop. I just use it in case something happens.
You have first to home all axes so the printer knows where to start. After that you do the auto leveling(g29). The printer use these values and write it in the storage somewhere.
It is important to not auto home after you have done the g29, because the values will be erased if you do.
The probe flips out during the g29 and that's why you have to write the offset in the firmware so the printer knows the location of the probe.

I right now work on a simple arm that can flip out without a servo. I use magnets for this and they are very strong.
Just didn't had the time to install it because the servo is working very well for me.
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby thawkins » 2014-Jan-Wed-18-Jan

nepaholic wrote:Hi
You have first to home all axes so the printer knows where to start. After that you do the auto leveling(g29). The printer use these values and write it in the storage somewhere.


Heres where it all went downhill for me i could not home all axis becase when i issue "g28" it tells me to probe the bed, and when i issue "g29" it says to home the axis first. To make matters worse "g31" which is supposed to report the status does not seem to be implemented.

The one or two times it did kick into life and run a probe, it never bought the nozzle near the bed after the probe, no matter what z offset i had on the probe displacement command, changing that seemed to have no effect on the position the nozzel was above the bed after the g29 was run. and after the probe it moved the hotend to the center of the bed.

My expectation was that the nozzle would be at the 0,0 position with the tip touching the bed after running g29, after all that is what homing is supposed to do.

Can you post the exact sequence of gcode commands to get this to work as im getting confusing results.

Also i would like a command that i can use to just turn it all off, and go back to ordinary z switch end stop mode, without having to reflash the non auto bed leveling version and recalibrate everything again.
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225mm x 200mm - Heated Bed
RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin 1.1.0
Full Graphic display.
-------------------------------
Zen Toolworks CNC/3d printer
230mmx360mm bed
Dual j-head hotends.
Dual heated beds.
RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin 0.98
-------------------------------
Flashforge 3d Creator Pro
Dual Extruder
220x143x150mm
Mightyboard rev e, runnimg Sailfish 7.7r1234
-------------------------------
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Jan-Wed-19-Jan

nepaholic wrote:Hi
Well you do not need the old z endstop. I just use it in case something happens.
You have first to home all axes so the printer knows where to start. After that you do the auto leveling(g29). The printer use these values and write it in the storage somewhere.
It is important to not auto home after you have done the g29, because the values will be erased if you do.
The probe flips out during the g29 and that's why you have to write the offset in the firmware so the printer knows the location of the probe.

I right now work on a simple arm that can flip out without a servo. I use magnets for this and they are very strong.
Just didn't had the time to install it because the servo is working very well for me.

Well even more confusion...
First, you say we don't need the old z endstop...
then you say we need to home all axes....
what is used for homing the z axis if the old z endstop is not needed??????

Your instructions are confusing!
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PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Jan-Thu-08-Jan

Hi
I got the bed leveling running now. So many times of flashing and debugging and at the end it was just a simple number that was wrong in the firmware.
I try to explain
When you setup your probe you have to set the offset of the probe.
The location of my probe is X+33mm on the left side of the extruder and Y-10mm.
Then you have to write the probing positions of the bed like: 30mm left, 100mm right, 15mm front, 120mm back in the firmware.
My left position was not right and if I do a easy math 33mm(the position of the probe)-30mm (where I wanted a probe position)= -3mm.
This means the extruder want travel to x -3mm. That's why I had all the problems. I changed the wanted position to +40mm and now it work awesome.
Sorry if I make you all headaches, but my English is not the best and I want to write as easy as possible.

@pomonabill
I don't no why you do not understand the principe of the bed leveling!?
Have you searched the net about it?
Let me try to explain again and forget this time the usual z endstop you have.
you want to start a new print and homing ONLY the X and the Y axis. Now the printer move the the endstops.
After that you have to start the auto bed leveling with G29.
Now the printer start to move to the locations you defined in the firmware, deploys the probe and measure the bed at each location( see the video I posted).
After that you get the measured values from the printer in pronterface or whatever software you use.
Then the printer start to print and use the measured values to compensate the print. You can see the z axis moving while printing.

The printer do not need a endstop longer, only the new probe. That's why you have to define the probe position in the firmware so the printer knows where the probe is and the nozzle.

Thawkins,
I have the codes in my start gcode and everything do automatic.
My start gcode is(sorry don't have all gcodes right now because I write on my mobile):
-Set bed temp
-set extruder temp
-g28 x0 y0 homes only the x and y axis
-g29 do the probing
-wait for extruder final temperature
-print

Hope you all understand now

You also can check this thread
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?151,246132
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Jan-Thu-13-Jan

I just had to remove the content of my post.... it isn't necessary in this thread AND I cannot stand reading it (embarrassed actually!)...
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Last edited by pomonabill221 on 2014-Jan-Fri-15-Jan, edited 1 time in total.
PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
pomonabill221
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Jan-Thu-14-Jan

Umpf ähm ok.
I always said that I use my old endstop in case something's happen with my probe. I already mentioned it in the first posts.
If you also check post #13 you can clearly see how to get the auto leveling running in my start gcode.
There I wrote:g28 X0 Y0 followed by a g28 z0
If you think about what this gcode means you see that your printer do it every time you start a print.
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Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Jan-Thu-14-Jan

And you don't have to be angry or something. Cool down. I try to explain everything as best as I can with my bad English and that sometimes might sound a little rough.
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Jan-Thu-15-Jan

(removed the nasty stuff... once again it wasn't necessary)**********

SO... I want to make SURE I UNDERSTAND...

1) the Z endstop is NOT used for ANYTHING other than a "safety". This COULD happen IF someone (like stupid me) were to hit "home all" in repeiter. The original Z switch would keep the extruder from crashing into the bed. This is the ONLY reason for the original Z switch.

2) the original Z switch, for instance, could be set so that the switch activates at, FOR INSTANCE, 5mm above the bed (THIS IS AN EXAMPLE ONLY AND IS FOR MY SHALLOW KNOWLEDGE... it MAY help others understand as well.. but I wouldn't count on it ). It isn't used for ANYTHING ELSE... no position/calibration/layer height/NOTHING BUT A SAFETY.

3) the autolevel switch could be set to activate at 10mm so you wouldn't get close to the original Z switch's operating point. When autolevel is de activated, it would NEVER touch the bed, and further, IF a home all axes (INCLUDING the Z axes... NOT normal though), the original Z switch would keep the extruder from crashing the bed.

4) the height (or Z offset) for the autolevel switch needs to be in the code so that the distance is compensated for, and the nozzle will be 10mm LOWER than when the autolevel switch operates. THIS IS AN EXAMPLE FOR CLARIFICATION... the offset for the original Z switch and the autolevel switch can be almost anything, BUT the autolevel switch MUST OPERATE HIGHER than the original Z switch.

Is this what is supposed to happen?
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Last edited by pomonabill221 on 2014-Jan-Fri-15-Jan, edited 1 time in total.
PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
pomonabill221
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby RetireeJay » 2014-Jan-Thu-16-Jan

Pomonabill221,

May I humbly make a suggestion?

I worked for a company with headquarters in France and dealt with many French-speaking colleagues, many of whom wrote to me in broken English. And I sometimes I tried to write to them in French. What I learned from this experience is that it is very hard for a non-native speaker to express things with subtlety and nuance. So the best guideline is to give the other person the benefit of the doubt. If a statement could be interpreted as insulting, or it could be interpreted as simply factual - even if stated bluntly - just accept it without prejudice.

I really don't think nephaholic has been intentionally omitting information or saying things in a misleading way with the intention of making you frustrated. His intentions are good.

I understand the frustration with trying to tackle a technology that you don't feel comfortable with. For example, see my posts about trying to learn how to flash the firmware. It took me several rounds of back and forth with PxT until he finally realized exactly what part of the puzzle I was missing. viewtopic.php?f=22&t=6092#p39391. I guess I displayed a little frustration myself... :oops: But flaming isn't going to make the discussion any easier.
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Jan-Thu-21-Jan

That's what I like about you, Jay, you have the patience of a saint and offer great and sensible help and suggestions!
I appreciate your thoughts about my little rant and I agree with what you said... Thank You!

I know nephaholic is trying his best to offer his help and ideas the best he can, and I am trying to follow as best I can, and that is why I ask questions (maybe too many), and I get frustrated when I don't understand, and it seems like the other person is inferring that I am stupid and SEEMS like "he" is replying to me in a sarcastic manner.
I am just trying to get a clear picture of what the other person is doing.

Just another example...
I am a member of another forum (EEVBLOG) and the thread I am following and participating in is for the Flir E4 thermal camera which I have, and the wonderful mods to unlock the full abilities of these cameras which I have done.

There are a couple of people that have done a ton of work with the firmware mods, and I have also tried to contribute.
Now I know that you and I and I am sure there are many others know that IF a firmware mod is done incorrectly (even a slip of the keyboard by adding a space), would probably brick the device! Do I hear "voided warranty"??? What do you think Flir would say.... HA! $1000 please!

There was a question that I had asked about trying a temporary mod using telnt and I didn't understand the command syntax.
The response that I got was VERY sarcastic and VERY nasty.

After a reply about his unnecessary response and a inappropriate flag, he apologized through PM (NOT publicly), that he had mistaken me for someone else.... just shows that ya gotta pay attention when you write a reply.
Someone else did respond and kindly explained how the syntax is done, and I have been doing this ever since with no problem.
BTW... that thread is over 3338 posts long! It is called Flir E4 thermal imaging camera teardown... and NOW I can see how my beds are heating up!

The flaming was not my intent but I just wanted to point out where I was getting conflicting messages and I was feeling like my questions were not valid and I should have been able to figure things out myself... I REALLY do want this to work and I have come up with a probe myself (which if anyone is interested in, I can post pictures of), but I needed to know the particulars of the switches, why we don't use the old switch (except for an "emergency Z endstop"), and how to set it up.

That is why I posted my 4 point post... I wanted to make SURE that at least I understand. I also hope that this might help others as well.
I am not a G code genius so it isn't always clear to me what the different codes mean so I look them up.

I had also asked about "remapping" the E stop input and I saw how to assign a pin to the connector and posted a partial listing of the defines, but I also asked how the firmware knows to us the new pin, and never got a response, so this is still a mystery to me as I couldn't find the definition anywhere.

So, I do try and figure things out myself before asking because that is how I learn, and when I hit a roadblock, I ask questions. I didn't develop the mod., and I don't know what the intent of the mod is (the firmware implementation that is... I DO know what auto level is... there isn't a question about that), so rather than second guess something, I think it is better to ask.
It may seem simple for some, and the "developer", but for someone that is trying this cold turkey, there are some things that need to be said in detail.

Hopefully I have conveyed to nepaholic what part of MY puzzle that I am missing, and I hope that what I have listed is correct because that is what I have assumed.... IF it is wrong... PLEASE let me know! and if it is correct, also let me know.
Thanks again Jay for your insight!
  • 0

PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Jan-Fri-13-Jan

Thanks Jay for your kind words and thank you pomonabill for understanding.
It was indeed very misleading and my chosen words wasn't correct.

I write most time from my mobile and don't have access to all codes in the firmware.
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Jan-Fri-14-Jan

OK... I need to say something about my previous posts, and how off base it got. AND I need to be brief!
I am sorry that my frustration in trying to understand took over and I got rather nasty myself. I should NOT have passed this onto ANYONE, nepaholic, I apologize for jumping on you! I know you are trying very hard to help, and develop the code as well.

I know that when typing a post, the true emotions don't come through and ALOT of misplaced emotion and misunderstood thoughts can be expressed.
Also, the "language barrier" (which happens in ALL forums), sometimes is difficult, and that can lead to frustration also.

I do NOT know where all my "pissyness" and "flaming" came from... really I don't... (need to take a pill I guess.. yeah right).

Once again... to everyone here and nepaholic, I apologize for my "explosion".

NOW CAN WE GET ON WITH AUTOLEVELING!!!!
  • 0

PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
pomonabill221
Solid infill...
 
Posts: 228
Joined: 2013-Jul-Tue-21-Jul
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Jan-Fri-15-Jan

No problem mate.
I will try to answer your questions as soon as I can.

About code. It is not from me. Some people have developed it and merged it to the marlin branch. I just tried to get it working on our bots.
Tough I have the original bot and things might be different on your newer models.
My probe arm and servo holder are designed for the original bot so it don't help you if you mount it.
But I work on a design that might help the other people and inspire to get it running on the simple,jr,LC,plus
I can upload the openscad code so you can make the necessary changes yourself.
It use only 4 magnet with the dimensions= 4mm diameter 5mm high. With this you can flip out the probe manually then probe the bed and flip it back manually. So you all do not need to buy servos and install it on the exp2 header.

About the printrbot firmware with bed leveling I had to make some changes to get it running. In this firmware it is defined to probe the bed in the center of the bed(+10 and -10mm) it didn't worked on my bot and I had to change the file.
I can post it if anyone is interested.

Cheers
Jens
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Jan-Fri-15-Jan

Well... yes it was a problem... FOR ME! I didn't like what I saw so I edited out the stuff that wasn't contributing to this thread, and was insulting to you (and everyone else probably!).

I,for one, appreciate what you have done to get this working! and thank you for your effort and sharing what you have done.

I am using a solenoid to lower and raise my probe, so I would like to use the exp2 output, but would need to change the duty cycle of the PWM to 100% (or close.. I can filter the ripple).
I am driving a power FET that will control the solenoid (diode clamped of course).
  • 0

PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
pomonabill221
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Posts: 228
Joined: 2013-Jul-Tue-21-Jul
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby KDog » 2014-Feb-Sun-16-Feb

Hi All,

Am working to get this implemented on my Printrbot. Came across this series of videos which make it very clear how to set up and calibrate

part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awsI9bMndJA
part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6msLOR_EfKc
part 3: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpiOsetkIRg

This is done on a Prusa i3 with Ramps 1.4 but it makes a number of things clear that I wasn't able to gleen from this thread.

Obviously, the first thing that Printrboard folks will need to figure out is how to flash the board at will :P
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Feb-Mon-00-Feb

nepaholic wrote:
pomonabill221 wrote:Yes, that is nice!
A little info on how to... does the firmware need to be downloaded into the PB board?
What do you use to drive the servo/stepper?
Is the micro switch wired in series with the Z endstop switch?
How is the routine started?
After the auto sensing (leveling) is complete, are the "offset" values stored in eeprom and added to the Z values in the print job?
Does the auto leveling "routine" stop after it is finished and wait for the user to start the printjob, or does the printjob run after autoleveling is completed?

Thanks for the post and video!

Hi
Yes you need a new firmware.
I used the actual marlin branch from Eric Zalm where I enabled the auto leveling. I configured it so I can use it with my printer and compiled and uploaded it.

The servo get the signal from the exp2 header (pin 11 on the upper left corner)
And 5v from the atx.

You have to tweak your start gcode in order to get it working.
My process is:
Heat bed and hotend.
G28 x0 y0
G28 z0
G29 start the probing
G1 x0 y0
Wait for temperature
Start print

When you say "The servo get the signal from the exp2 header (pin 11 on the upper left corner)", what do you mean by upper left corner?
The pins on the exp2 connector are numbered in a zigzag pattern:

1 x x 2
3 x x 4
5 x x 6
etc. even thought the layout image shows:

1 x x 8
2 x x 9
3 x x 10
etc.

also, when I un comment the define for num_servos 1, when I try and upload the hex file to the printrbot with flip, I get an "address out of range".

/ Number of servos
//
// If you select a configuration below, this will receive a default value and does not need to be set manually
// set it manually if you have more servos than extruders and wish to manually control some
// leaving it undefined or defining as 0 will disable the servo subsystem
// If unsure, leave commented / disabled
//
#define NUM_SERVOS 1 // Servo index starts with 0 for M280 command ********

// Servo Endstops
//
// This allows for servo actuated endstops, primary usage is for the Z Axis to eliminate calibration or bed height changes.
// Use M206 command to correct for switch height offset to actual nozzle height. Store that setting with M500.
//
#define SERVO_ENDSTOPS {-1, -1, 0} // Servo index for X, Y, Z. Disable with -1 ************
#define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES {0,0, 0,0, 180,0} // X,Y,Z Axis Extend and Retract angles ************

Am I doing something wrong? I thought I needed these defines to use the exp2 output for the probe operator.
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You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
pomonabill221
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Posts: 228
Joined: 2013-Jul-Tue-21-Jul
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Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Feb-Mon-03-Feb

Hi
Sorry can't upload pictures to the tapatalk app.
If you look on the schematics of your printrboard picture you uploaded it is the pin on the left with the number 7
This pin in the firmware is number 11
Please add the following to your firmware in te pins.h section for your printrboard
#ifdef NUM_SERVOS
#define SERVO0_PIN 11
#endif

Hope this helps
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Feb-Mon-04-Feb

OH OK! I see where the Pin11 comes from! That is in the firmware and NOT on the physical board... that would be pin 13 since the order of the pins is "zigzag" (odd on one side, even on the other... a typical IDC pinout). signal name "PC1" or port C1 That was throwing me off when you said the upper left pin.... I get it now.. DUH! :lol:
Thank You for the info! I will give it a try tomorrow.
Thank You! ;)
  • 0

PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
pomonabill221
Solid infill...
 
Posts: 228
Joined: 2013-Jul-Tue-21-Jul
Reputation: 0

Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Feb-Tue-10-Feb

Hi

here are some parts of my firmware to get this running.
first you have to download the beta printrbot firmware or the marlin firmware from Erik Zalm

then go to configuration.h
this is the first line that need to be changed to false. you have to do this to calibrate the z probe.
Code: Select all
#define min_software_endstops false // If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS.


this is my configuration
Code: Select all
#define ENABLE_AUTO_BED_LEVELING // Delete the comment to enable (remove // at the start of the line)

#ifdef ENABLE_AUTO_BED_LEVELING

  // these are the positions on the bed to do the probing
  #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 40
  #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 100
  #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 120
  #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 15

  // these are the offsets to the prob relative to the extruder tip (Hotend - Probe)
  #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER_DEFAULT 33.00
  #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER_DEFAULT -10.00
  #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER_DEFAULT -3.70

  #define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_HOMING 10       // (in mm) Raise Z before homing (G28) for Probe Clearance.
                                        // Be sure you have this distance over your Z_MAX_POS in case

  #define XY_TRAVEL_SPEED 5000         // X and Y axis travel speed between probes, in mm/min

  #define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_PROBING 10    //How much the extruder will be raised before traveling to the first probing point.
  #define Z_RAISE_BETWEEN_PROBINGS 10  //How much the extruder will be raised when traveling from between next probing points


  //If defined, the Probe servo will be turned on only during movement and then turned off to avoid jerk
  //The value is the delay to turn the servo off after powered on - depends on the servo speed; 300ms is good value, but you can try lower it.
  // You MUST HAVE the SERVO_ENDSTOPS defined to use here a value higher than zero otherwise your code will not compile.

  #define PROBE_SERVO_DEACTIVATION_DELAY 300


//If you have enabled the Bed Auto Levelling and are using the same Z Probe for Z Homing,
//it is highly recommended you let this Z_SAFE_HOMING enabled!!!

  #define Z_SAFE_HOMING   // This feature is meant to avoid Z homing with probe outside the bed area.
                          // When defined, it will:
                          // - Allow Z homing only after X and Y homing AND stepper drivers still enabled
                          // - If stepper drivers timeout, it will need X and Y homing again before Z homing
                          // - Position the probe in a defined XY point before Z Homing when homing all axis (G28)
                          // - Block Z homing only when the probe is outside bed area.

  #ifdef Z_SAFE_HOMING

    #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT (X_MAX_LENGTH/2)    // X point for Z homing when homing all axis (G28)
    #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT (Y_MAX_LENGTH/2)    // Y point for Z homing when homing all axis (G28)

  #endif

  // with accurate bed leveling, the bed is sampled in a ACCURATE_BED_LEVELING_POINTSxACCURATE_BED_LEVELING_POINTS grid and least squares solution is calculated
  // Note: this feature occupies 10'206 byte
  #define ACCURATE_BED_LEVELING
 
  #ifdef ACCURATE_BED_LEVELING
     // I wouldn't see a reason to go above 3 (=9 probing points on the bed)
    #define ACCURATE_BED_LEVELING_POINTS 2
  #endif
 
#endif


and this
Code: Select all
// Number of servos
//
// If you select a configuration below, this will receive a default value and does not need to be set manually
// set it manually if you have more servos than extruders and wish to manually control some
// leaving it undefined or defining as 0 will disable the servo subsystem
// If unsure, leave commented / disabled
//
#define NUM_SERVOS 1 // Servo index starts with 0 for M280 command

// Servo Endstops
//
// This allows for servo actuated endstops, primary usage is for the Z Axis to eliminate calibration or bed height changes.
// Use M206 command to correct for switch height offset to actual nozzle height. Store that setting with M500.
//
#define SERVO_ENDSTOPS {-1, -1, 0} // Servo index for X, Y, Z. Disable with -1
#define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES {0,0, 0,0, 0,50} // X,Y,Z Axis Extend and Retract angles
  • 0

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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Feb-Tue-14-Feb

Thank you for the code and the info!
I did stumble across a three part youtube video on this mod, although it was for a different printer but was VERY similar code wise.
All the steps you provided are the same that was in the video, I just didn't mod the pins.h file and I think that is where Flip was having problems.
I haven't gotten back to it... other things came up that "got in the way", but I will try again today (IF time permits), but I did a "dry run" of the leveling (without the command to extend my probe and just relied on the "emergency" z stop), and it worked GREAT!

Once I get my probe to extend, I should be in business!!!! Just a matter of fine tuning positions and offsets... then I'm OFF!!!!

Thank you for your help!
  • 0

PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
pomonabill221
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Posts: 228
Joined: 2013-Jul-Tue-21-Jul
Reputation: 0

Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Feb-Wed-02-Feb

Yes that's right.
If you have the servo uncommented in the configuration.h then you also have to define the servo in the pins.h. Otherwise like you say the firmware won't compile correctly and you get a error.
If you don't use a servo and you want to flip out the probe by hand you have to comment
//#define NUM_SERVOS 1
  • 0

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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Feb-Wed-03-Feb

I was kinda guessing that this was my problem, but I didn't know where to look.
This kind of error was "hinting" that because the servos were being defined, the firmware didn't know what to do with the servos, or where they would connect.
Thanks for the hint/tip!
Still haven't tried it YET, but I cannot wait to!
  • 0

PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
pomonabill221
Solid infill...
 
Posts: 228
Joined: 2013-Jul-Tue-21-Jul
Reputation: 0

Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Feb-Wed-20-Feb

nepaholic wrote:Hi
Sorry can't upload pictures to the tapatalk app.
If you look on the schematics of your printrboard picture you uploaded it is the pin on the left with the number 7
This pin in the firmware is number 11
Please add the following to your firmware in te pins.h section for your printrboard
#ifdef NUM_SERVOS
#define SERVO0_PIN 11
#endif

Hope this helps

just to confirm...
the ling ... SERVO0_PIN11... the zero (0) should be there and have no space?
  • 0

PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
pomonabill221
Solid infill...
 
Posts: 228
Joined: 2013-Jul-Tue-21-Jul
Reputation: 0

Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Feb-Wed-21-Feb

nepaholic wrote:Hi

here are some parts of my firmware to get this running.
first you have to download the beta printrbot firmware or the marlin firmware from Erik Zalm

then go to configuration.h
this is the first line that need to be changed to false. you have to do this to calibrate the z probe.
Code: Select all
#define min_software_endstops false // If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS.


this is my configuration
Code: Select all
#define ENABLE_AUTO_BED_LEVELING // Delete the comment to enable (remove // at the start of the line)

#ifdef ENABLE_AUTO_BED_LEVELING

  // these are the positions on the bed to do the probing
  #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 40
  #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 100
  #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 120
  #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 15

  // these are the offsets to the prob relative to the extruder tip (Hotend - Probe)
  #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER_DEFAULT 33.00
  #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER_DEFAULT -10.00
  #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER_DEFAULT -3.70

  #define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_HOMING 10       // (in mm) Raise Z before homing (G28) for Probe Clearance.
                                        // Be sure you have this distance over your Z_MAX_POS in case

  #define XY_TRAVEL_SPEED 5000         // X and Y axis travel speed between probes, in mm/min

  #define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_PROBING 10    //How much the extruder will be raised before traveling to the first probing point.
  #define Z_RAISE_BETWEEN_PROBINGS 10  //How much the extruder will be raised when traveling from between next probing points


  //If defined, the Probe servo will be turned on only during movement and then turned off to avoid jerk
  //The value is the delay to turn the servo off after powered on - depends on the servo speed; 300ms is good value, but you can try lower it.
  // You MUST HAVE the SERVO_ENDSTOPS defined to use here a value higher than zero otherwise your code will not compile.

  #define PROBE_SERVO_DEACTIVATION_DELAY 300


//If you have enabled the Bed Auto Levelling and are using the same Z Probe for Z Homing,
//it is highly recommended you let this Z_SAFE_HOMING enabled!!!

  #define Z_SAFE_HOMING   // This feature is meant to avoid Z homing with probe outside the bed area.
                          // When defined, it will:
                          // - Allow Z homing only after X and Y homing AND stepper drivers still enabled
                          // - If stepper drivers timeout, it will need X and Y homing again before Z homing
                          // - Position the probe in a defined XY point before Z Homing when homing all axis (G28)
                          // - Block Z homing only when the probe is outside bed area.

  #ifdef Z_SAFE_HOMING

    #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT (X_MAX_LENGTH/2)    // X point for Z homing when homing all axis (G28)
    #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT (Y_MAX_LENGTH/2)    // Y point for Z homing when homing all axis (G28)

  #endif

  // with accurate bed leveling, the bed is sampled in a ACCURATE_BED_LEVELING_POINTSxACCURATE_BED_LEVELING_POINTS grid and least squares solution is calculated
  // Note: this feature occupies 10'206 byte
  #define ACCURATE_BED_LEVELING
 
  #ifdef ACCURATE_BED_LEVELING
     // I wouldn't see a reason to go above 3 (=9 probing points on the bed)
    #define ACCURATE_BED_LEVELING_POINTS 2
  #endif
 
#endif


and this
Code: Select all
// Number of servos
//
// If you select a configuration below, this will receive a default value and does not need to be set manually
// set it manually if you have more servos than extruders and wish to manually control some
// leaving it undefined or defining as 0 will disable the servo subsystem
// If unsure, leave commented / disabled
//
#define NUM_SERVOS 1 // Servo index starts with 0 for M280 command

// Servo Endstops
//
// This allows for servo actuated endstops, primary usage is for the Z Axis to eliminate calibration or bed height changes.
// Use M206 command to correct for switch height offset to actual nozzle height. Store that setting with M500.
//
#define SERVO_ENDSTOPS {-1, -1, 0} // Servo index for X, Y, Z. Disable with -1
#define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES {0,0, 0,0, 0,50} // X,Y,Z Axis Extend and Retract angles


OUI!!! more problems... (can you tell I am not that swift with programming??)
When I enable accurate bed leveling, when I compile with arduino, I get an error saying
"r/bin/ld.exe: region text overflowed by 3168 bytes" (this is a partial copy/paste). With accurate bed leveling commented out, it compiles fine.

Also, I still get the address is out of range in Flip, even with the pins.h addition:
#ifdef NUM_SERVOS
#define SERVO0_PIN 11
#endif

Here is a snip of my pins.h
#define E2_DIR_PIN 27
#define E2_ENABLE_PIN 45

#define HEATER_0_PIN 21 // Extruder
#define HEATER_1_PIN 46
#define HEATER_2_PIN 47
#define HEATER_BED_PIN 20 // Bed

#ifdef NUM_SERVOS
#define SERVO0_PIN 11
#endif

// If soft or fast .............

under motherboard == 8 || motherboard == 81 section in pins.h. Is this where it needs to go or at the top of pins.h
  • 0

PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
pomonabill221
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Posts: 228
Joined: 2013-Jul-Tue-21-Jul
Reputation: 0

Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Feb-Thu-02-Feb

Oh sorry I have to check my firmware again tonight.
One question, do you have a LCD?
I had similare issues with overfilled bytes. It just mean that your memory on the printrboard is full.
I had to disable my LCD to get it running.

Or you also can disable accurate bed leveling, but then your bed will only probed on 3 positions.
  • 0

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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Feb-Thu-03-Feb

Hi Nepaholic;
That would be great if you could check.
No, I don't have the LCD.
I could trim the configuration.h and/or the pins.h down to make things fit, I think?
I do like the concept of the accurate bed leveling as I could make the autolevel probe more points... might try commenting out the lcd related stuff and see if that would work.

I though that I was trying to stuff 2 pounds of stuff into a 1 pound bag!

Thanks again for your help!
BTW... do I have to use the marlin-marlin v1, or can I use the marlin-bedlevel-v2? Is the marlin-marlin v1 a trimmed down set of header files?
  • 0

PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
pomonabill221
Solid infill...
 
Posts: 228
Joined: 2013-Jul-Tue-21-Jul
Reputation: 0

Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Feb-Thu-11-Feb

Hi i attached some of my files.
-the servo holder is designed for the original printed printrbot.
-the file probe is also designed for the printed printrbot. you have to get some magnets to use this(r=2,h=5mm)
this design work awesome but you have to flip out the probe manualy. the magnet snap and hold very well.
- the last file is my working firmware. it is v1 from printrbot.

servo.stl
probe.stl
printrbot_with_BAL.zip
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Feb-Thu-14-Feb

WOW! Thank You!
VERY helpful and I will go over it with a fine toothed comb to see what you did! Heck, I may learn something! (surprise surprise!).
Thanks again
  • 0

PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
pomonabill221
Solid infill...
 
Posts: 228
Joined: 2013-Jul-Tue-21-Jul
Reputation: 0

Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby lwalkera » 2014-Feb-Thu-16-Feb

pomonabill221 wrote:BTW... do I have to use the marlin-marlin v1, or can I use the marlin-bedlevel-v2? Is the marlin-marlin v1 a trimmed down set of header files?


In v2, I removed one of the LCD menus to make room for the bed leveling code. In v1, LCD support is completely disabled.
  • 0

Laine Walker-Avina
Printrbot Beta-tester and Printrboard Designer
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby KDog » 2014-Feb-Thu-18-Feb

Awesome! Thanks for the files. I was getting ready to glue my servo to the side of my x-carriage :P
  • 0

Printrbot Metal Simple
Printrbot Original (printed on a PBJ)
Dec. 2013 ..... Kossel PRO (still waiting for it to arrive!!!)
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Feb-Thu-19-Feb

lwalkera wrote:
pomonabill221 wrote:BTW... do I have to use the marlin-marlin v1, or can I use the marlin-bedlevel-v2? Is the marlin-marlin v1 a trimmed down set of header files?


In v2, I removed one of the LCD menus to make room for the bed leveling code. In v1, LCD support is completely disabled.

I was wondering about that... delete the stuff that I am not using to make room.

With Neaholic's files, there is MUCH more room not being used compared to the "full" configuration.h file (Binary sketch size: 99,756 bytes (of a 131,072 byte maximum) when I compile the new files.

If I ever want to add an lcd display, I can add only the defines that I need for the display and I think there will still be enough room.

Thank you Nepaholic for your files and what you did! Very helpful.
  • 0

PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Feb-Thu-23-Feb

Hi
Well I think this might work if you use the PB LCD display.
I have many problems with this firmware and my panelolu. I can't get it running together
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Feb-Fri-19-Feb

Well I have HAD SUCCESS!!!! I even tried accurate bed leveling and specified a 3 (3X3 matrix) and it worked great!!!
Thank you nepaholic for your help!

One problem I am having...

IF I manually home the x/y using G28 x0 y0
then G28 z0,
then G29... this is where things go weird. The autolevel does start BUT the probe does NOT go to the "left probe bed position" but just starts at the homed x/y position.

BUT if I click on home all axes in repetier the x, y and x home ( or only G28 which homes x then y then moves to bed center and homes z), and the z axis moves up 10 mm and stops.

Then I issue a G29, x is homed but y is the first probed point and IS at the correct Y position "front probe position" (it moves back to the offset position (not home)).

I did see the lines in con..h that are
#ifdef Z_SAFE_HOMING

#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT (X_MAX_LENGTH/2) // X point for Z homing when homing all axis (G28)
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT (Y_MAX_LENGTH/2) // Y point for Z homing when homing all axis (G28)

Is this where the bed centering after homing is coming from? Not a biggie but was curious.

Also, rather than run an RC servo, I would like to pull a solenoid (with a power fet of course), so I need to know if I can have the PWM output set to 100% duty cycle, or is there another pin that is a digital output that I can use? I tried setting the extend angle to 360, but the output from the board just went to a 50% square wave. Anything higher would result in the duty cycle "wrapping around" so that idea didn't work.
It would also have to stay on during auto level. The PWM output runs for a few cycles then stops, so even triggering a mono wouldn't really work.
This is getting VERY close to BLISS!!!
Thanks!
  • 0

PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby thawkins » 2014-Feb-Sat-00-Feb

A couple of questions

I have all my hardware setup, with the reflective ir sensor and its working really well as a normal zstop, with the normal non-bedleveling code.

So i set the sensor to trigger 3mm below the end of the nozzle, and sure enough if home z with the normal code in place, the nozzle ends up 3 mm above the bed.

The sensor is to the left of the nozzle. About 10mm on the x, the y offset is 0 and the trigger point is now 3mm below the tip of the nozzle.

Ok, load the bed leveling code [bedlevel-v2.hex]

So i have

........... standard stuff to set steps/mm etc basicaly output from m503 on non leveling firmware.

M211 x150 y100 z150 ; set bed size
M212 x-10 y0 z-3.0 ; probe offset
G28 x0 y0
G29

G1 z10 f100
G1 x50 y50 f4000
G1 z0 f100

! Bang extruder crashes into deck on last move, breaks plastic z coupler.

So here are the questions

1. How exactly do you specify tbe probe offset, based on my spec, to left of nozzle by 10mm, same y, and below nozzle tip by 3mm, is what i have above correct?

2. Whilst probing is going on, is there anyway to set the z height it starts probing down from, i need it to return to a point at least 15mm above the bed on each probe, otherwise the sensor gets confused, it has to approach the bed from at least twice its sensor depth. The current code seems to drag the probe across the bed to tbe next measurment point, and only raise it a very small amount.

3. Is there any way to disable the autobed leveling support and return to being a simple standard zstop driven system without having to swap firmware again.

I'll try and load some video of what is happening once i manage to repair my z coupler .
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Dual heated beds.
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Feb-Sat-03-Feb

Hi

Oh ok. I will try to help you guys :)
There is no option to go back to normal mode without reflashing. But once you set it you never want to go back.

Ok let's start. Please follow this guide here to set up the offset
. a) Make a small mark in the bed with a marker/felt-tip pen.
b) Place the hotend tip as exactly as possible on the mark, touching the bed. Raise the hotend 0.1mm (a regular paper thickness) and zero all axis (G92 X0 Y0 Z0);
d) Raise the hotend 10mm (or more) for probe clearance, lower the Z probe (Z-Endstop) with M401 and place it just on that mark by moving X, Y and Z;
e) Lower the Z in 0.1mm steps, with the probe always touching the mark (it may be necessary to adjust X and Y as well) until you hear the "click" meaning the mechanical endstop was trigged. You can confirm with M119;
f) Now you have the probe in the same place as your hotend tip was before. Perform a M114 and write down the values, for example: X:24.3 Y:-31.4 Z:5.1;
g) You can raise the z probe with M402 command;
h) Fill the defines bellow multiplying the values by "-1" (just change the signal)

#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -24.3

#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 31.4
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -5.1
The following options define the probing positions. These are good starting values. I recommend to keep a better clearance from borders in the first run and then make the probes as close as possible to borders:

#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 140
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 140
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30
A few more options:

#define XY_TRAVEL_SPEED 6000
X and Y axis travel speed between probes, in mm/min. Bear in mind that really fast moves may render step skipping. 6000 mm/min (100mm/s) is a good value.

#define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_PROBING 10
#define Z_RAISE_BETWEEN_PROBINGS 10
The Z axis is lifted when traveling to the first probe point by Z_RAISE_BEFORE_PROBING value and then lifted when traveling from first to second and second to third point by Z_RAISE_BETWEEN_PROBINGS. All values are in mm as usual.


When you have done it please enter the values like in the description and post the final configuration.h file here and I will check it before you flash the board.
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Feb-Sat-03-Feb

This is getting VERY exciting!!!
My preliminary (VERY rough estimate of extruder vs. probe offset), is X= 47mm and Y= 6mm. I just measured with calipers and by eye, just to see what would happen and how it worked... I will perform accurate offset measurements later though.
My auto bed leveling portion of my config..h is:
****************************************************
#ifdef ENABLE_AUTO_BED_LEVELING

// these are the positions on the bed to do the probing
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 15
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 135
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 185
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 10

// these are the offsets to the prob relative to the extruder tip (Hotend - Probe)
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER_DEFAULT -46.00
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER_DEFAULT -5.4
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER_DEFAULT -3.70

#define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_HOMING 5 // (in mm) Raise Z before homing (G28) for Probe Clearance.
// Be sure you have this distance over your Z_MAX_POS in case

#define XY_TRAVEL_SPEED 5000 // X and Y axis travel speed between probes, in mm/min

#define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_PROBING 10 //How much the extruder will be raised before traveling to the first probing point.
#define Z_RAISE_BETWEEN_PROBINGS 5 //How much the extruder will be raised when traveling from between next probing points

************************
I still need to find out how to get a constant signal out of the board to control my solenoid though... I am just trying this out using the "main" Z endstop, and it working great except the startup problem I posted in my previous post, but this is not a big one for me right now....
I attached my config..h I renamed it to configuration_h.txt because the board won't allow a *.h attachment. Just change the extension the .h as viewing in notepad is not formatted correctly.
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PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
pomonabill221
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Feb-Sat-03-Feb

nepaholic wrote:Hi

Oh ok. I will try to help you guys :)
There is no option to go back to normal mode without reflashing. But once you set it you never want to go back.

Ok let's start. Please follow this guide here to set up the offset
. a) Make a small mark in the bed with a marker/felt-tip pen.
b) Place the hotend tip as exactly as possible on the mark, touching the bed. Raise the hotend 0.1mm (a regular paper thickness) and zero all axis (G92 X0 Y0 Z0);
d) Raise the hotend 10mm (or more) for probe clearance, lower the Z probe (Z-Endstop) with M401 and place it just on that mark by moving X, Y and Z;
e) Lower the Z in 0.1mm steps, with the probe always touching the mark (it may be necessary to adjust X and Y as well) until you hear the "click" meaning the mechanical endstop was trigged. You can confirm with M119;
f) Now you have the probe in the same place as your hotend tip was before. Perform a M114 and write down the values, for example: X:24.3 Y:-31.4 Z:5.1;
g) You can raise the z probe with M402 command;
h) Fill the defines bellow multiplying the values by "-1" (just change the signal) I would imagine that IF your probe is to the LEFT of the extruder, you would want the values for X and Y to be positive rather than negative??? This may be why Thawkins had a crash?

#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -24.3

#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 31.4
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -5.1
The following options define the probing positions. These are good starting values. I recommend to keep a better clearance from borders in the first run and then make the probes as close as possible to borders:

#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 140
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 140
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30
A few more options:

#define XY_TRAVEL_SPEED 6000
X and Y axis travel speed between probes, in mm/min. Bear in mind that really fast moves may render step skipping. 6000 mm/min (100mm/s) is a good value.

#define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_PROBING 10
#define Z_RAISE_BETWEEN_PROBINGS 10 This would be where you would want to INCREASE the value to raise your sensor higher. (I think) Possible BOTH this value and the previous value as well.
The Z axis is lifted when traveling to the first probe point by Z_RAISE_BEFORE_PROBING value and then lifted when traveling from first to second and second to third point by Z_RAISE_BETWEEN_PROBINGS. All values are in mm as usual.


When you have done it please enter the values like in the description and post the final configuration.h file here and I will check it before you flash the board.
  • 0

PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
pomonabill221
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Posts: 228
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Feb-Sat-03-Feb

thawkins wrote:A couple of questions

I have all my hardware setup, with the reflective ir sensor and its working really well as a normal zstop, with the normal non-bedleveling code.

So i set the sensor to trigger 3mm below the end of the nozzle, and sure enough if home z with the normal code in place, the nozzle ends up 3 mm above the bed.

The sensor is to the left of the nozzle. About 10mm on the x, the y offset is 0 and the trigger point is now 3mm below the tip of the nozzle.

Ok, load the bed leveling code [bedlevel-v2.hex]

So i have

........... standard stuff to set steps/mm etc basicaly output from m503 on non leveling firmware.

M211 x150 y100 z150 ; set bed size
M212 x-10 y0 z-3.0 ; probe offset ************ I THINK since your probe is to the LEFT of the nozzle, you would want a positive offset value for X?
G28 x0 y0
G29

G1 z10 f100
G1 x50 y50 f4000
G1 z0 f100

! Bang extruder crashes into deck on last move, breaks plastic z coupler.

So here are the questions

1. How exactly do you specify tbe probe offset, based on my spec, to left of nozzle by 10mm, same y, and below nozzle tip by 3mm, is what i have above correct?

2. Whilst probing is going on, is there anyway to set the z height it starts probing down from, i need it to return to a point at least 15mm above the bed on each probe, otherwise the sensor gets confused, it has to approach the bed from at least twice its sensor depth. The current code seems to drag the probe across the bed to tbe next measurment point, and only raise it a very small amount. The value for #define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_PROBING 10 change to at least 15
#define Z_RAISE_BETWEEN_PROBINGS 10 change to at least 15

3. Is there any way to disable the autobed leveling support and return to being a simple standard zstop driven system without having to swap firmware again.

I'll try and load some video of what is happening once i manage to repair my z coupler .


From my experimenting with the code, I believe the values that I made notes on are what you want to change. No expert here but this is what I found.
  • 0

PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
pomonabill221
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Posts: 228
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Feb-Sat-12-Feb

Pomonabill, where is your probe? On the left or right side of the extruder?
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Feb-Sat-13-Feb

My probe is on the right hand side.
Here are a couple of pics....
probe 1.JPG

probe 2.JPG
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PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
pomonabill221
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Feb-Sat-14-Feb

Oh ok. Could you please try this
// these are the positions on the bed to do the probing
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 62
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 135
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 185
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 10

// these are the offsets to the prob relative to the extruder tip (Hotend - Probe)
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER_DEFAULT 46.00
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER_DEFAULT -5.4
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER_DEFAULT -3.70
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Feb-Sun-00-Feb

I tried your values and the X position is WAY off from what I had.
My probe is a little past center in X.

If is set the default to -46.0, the probe still starts past center of X.
(I do have the 8x8 bed by the way), so the numbers above only sample a small portion of the bed and the square sampled is offset from center.

Here is a video of the different values in configuration.h
The first part is the values from above post, and the second post (even though I said new values) are my old values
https://www.dropbox.com/s/893jm94jb8y8he3/compare.mp4

The first thing I do is 'home all" in repetier and the extruder ends up in the middle of the bed.
Sorry about the focus... my camera lost it for a moment!
Hope this helps.
  • 0

PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
pomonabill221
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Feb-Tue-14-Feb

WOW what happened?
All of a sudden this thread went quiet?

I don't know if my earlier question was missed, but I would like to know if there is a way to get an output from the controller for use with a solenoid (with a driver of course).
The output would go hi to turn on the probe and low to retract the probe.
Is there any way to use the PWM and command 100% duty cycle rather than an angle, and have the output active all the time the probe is to be extended?
OR another pin on the controller that is a digital pin.

I couldn't find anything OBVIOUS in the *.h files that gave me a clue....
I'll do some more looking though.
  • 0

PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
pomonabill221
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Posts: 228
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Feb-Tue-18-Feb

Hi. Sorry I'm very busy the last days :( and I do not have an answer to your questions because this is little to advanced for me. ;)
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby KDog » 2014-Feb-Tue-19-Feb

Can't you connect the probe to a fan controller? You just need an on and off correct? You can control a fan in firmware.
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Feb-Tue-22-Feb

@nepaholic
No problem... I was only concerned because this thread seemed to become dormant.... was just wondering if something "bad" happened.

@KDog
Yes, I could use an unused fan controller pin as all I need is an on/off like you said, and not a PWM signal. The original fan IS a PWM signal.

I could even use a spare extruder heater output (the board supports 3 extruders doesn't it?) or an extruder step/direction output as I think they are digital (although step might be a pulse train for stepper speed, but still a digital output).

I would just need to know how to define the pin (in configuration.h and pins.h) so that it isn't a PWM output. I guess my main stumbling block for this kind of thing is how a pin is defined as a PWM/digital output or input (if it is a bidirectional pin). Where could I get this information? Arduino site? (I don't want this to turn into an Arduino training thread)

If the pin from the uP isn't brought out to a test pad/header, I can solder a wire onto the uP pin... done it before so no problem. (don't cringe too much.. just takes time and some magnification!)
  • 0

PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
pomonabill221
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Posts: 228
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Feb-Tue-22-Feb

Looking at pins.h, there are a few pins that look interesting, like led_pin, ps_on_pin, kill_pin, alarm_pin (these are for a motherboard type 8 though... rats)... I would think these are digital and not pwm outputs?
Also heater_1_pin and heater_2_pin. These are already defined to a pin so I might try one of them.
  • 0

PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
pomonabill221
Solid infill...
 
Posts: 228
Joined: 2013-Jul-Tue-21-Jul
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby pomonabill221 » 2014-Feb-Sat-02-Feb

So I have been trying to decifer the pin mapping in pins.h so that I can use a digital output rather than the PWM output for my solenoid...
GAWD is this confusing!
I found the panelolu page about the easy way (yeah right), and he has a table listing the signal names/physical pins/marlin pins/fastio pins.... WHAT A MESS!!!!
Some of the pins used are defined in marlin.h and some are fastio.h, it seems like the limit switches use the fastio mapping and the steppers use marlin.
All I want to do is change #ifdef NUM_SERVOS
#define SERVO0_PIN 11
#endif

to use say exp0:PE0 (physical pin 33/marlin pin 8/fastio pin 32)
How the h**l does one use a different pin for a digital output? What mapping needs to be changed?
Is SERVO0 a variable name and doesn't define a PWM so I could change the line to SERVO0_PIN 8 (but pin 8 is already defined in pins.h as Y STOP PIN) but is mapped in fastio.h to physical pin 10 PB0...
can this mapping be done?

VERY confusing ( to a non programmer with very little experience and alot of reading)!
OR is there some way that I can get the original pin 11 to toggle rather than PWM?
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PBplus V2 kit.
* Modded power supply (my own)
* heavier power cable (#12) and connector (Cinch-Jones 2 pin) as 4 pin ATX was getting hot!
* extruder and heated bed indicators on bot.. I like to know
* cable dressing using ideas from other members and my own
* machined Z axis couplers.. my own design
* filament guide tubing (drip sprinkler tubing).. keeps filament from possible tangling
* flat washers under ALL screw heads.. spreads out force over wood
* Al machined printbed, opto limit switches on ALL axis, Acme Z lead screws
* Highly modified printbed/stiffened
* Dual Z axis limit switches (selectable) for glass or aluminum bed
* Illuminated extruder with 2 white leds
* NOW with AUTOLEVEL!!!!
* RAMPS board with graphic display
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby KDog » 2014-Feb-Sat-02-Feb

I made some progress with my home-built Printrbot Original. I'm running an Azteeg x3 as the controller and it doesn't have "servo" pins. Had to figure out where to hook up the three wires and finally did. Am now getting servo movement when I input the M401 and M402 commands. The only question I have now is that the servo activates when I turn on the power supply and switches back when I connect the host. Is this normal?

Just need to get the fan pins to work now :P
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Printrbot Metal Simple
Printrbot Original (printed on a PBJ)
Dec. 2013 ..... Kossel PRO (still waiting for it to arrive!!!)
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Re: Anyone tried auto leveling?

Postby nepaholic » 2014-Feb-Sat-09-Feb

Yes that's normal kdog. My do the same
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