SOLVED: Changed firmware, now Y and Z axis won't home

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SOLVED: Changed firmware, now Y and Z axis won't home

Postby q__ » 2015-Jan-Sun-22-Jan

So, I have a Printrbot 6" heated bed that I want to put on my Simple Metal.
Only problem was, the default right-hand-side probe point falls off the side of the smaller aluminum bed.

I went in and changed the probe points in firmware.
I downloaded the entire Marlin fork from Github, followed the directions that PxT put together here:
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=595


The ONLY lines of code I touched are lines 329 and 331 here:
https://github.com/Printrbot/Marlin/blo ... ion.h#L329
I just changed them to
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION X_MAX_LENGTH-17
and
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 1
respectively (the measurements that will solve my problem)

I went ahead and re-compiled everything, and uploaded it to my printrboard, following the instructions here:
http://help.printrbot.com/Guide/How+to+ ... irmware/78

I booted my printer back up, and it connects fine, and the X-axis works as it should, but the Y and Z axes are being naughty.

When I home the Y-axis, it will blip backwards about 1/2", then stop. It then thinks that new position is Y-home. If I put the Y-axis close to the end-stop, and home the axis, it will nudge into the end-stop, but not recognize it, and the belt will skip a bit.

When I home the Z-axis, the Z-axis moves upwards about 1/3", pauses, then moves upwards a bit more. It now thinks that new position is Z-home. Starting the Z-axis with the auto-level probe "active" (light on) has no effect.

I checked the electrical connection of the Y-axis end-stop, and it is working fine, and the auto-level probe responds correctly to metal in the vicinity, so I have no idea what is going on.

I would really appreciate some help here.
Thanks!

Relevant info:
Printrbot Simple Metal
Printrboard version F4
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Last edited by q__ on 2015-Jan-Mon-10-Jan, edited 1 time in total.
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SOLVED: Changed firmware, now Y and Z axis won't home

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Re: Changed firmware, now Y and Z axis won't home

Postby RetireeJay » 2015-Jan-Mon-08-Jan

I see that you said you checked the electrical connections, but this still sounds like a connection problem. The X and Y homing switches are "normally closed" (have electrical continuity) until the lever is pressed; then they become "open circuit." If they are not plugged in to the board, then the board sees them as open circuit and thinks that it's at "home" all the time. When that is the case, it will just move a couple of mm away from the switch every time you tell it to go home.

You can check the status of the switches as seen by the board by using the M119 command. If the board tells you a particular homing switch is "TRIGGERED" then that means it's sensing an open circuit for that switch.
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
"My next printer is..." Prusa i3 MK3, upgraded to MK3S
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Re: Changed firmware, now Y and Z axis won't home

Postby wd5gnr » 2015-Jan-Mon-08-Jan

Did you clone from github or download the ZIP files? I had a similar problem recently. The preconfigured files were workable but required modification for my machine wrt. The configuration is not one size fits all. However, I never did get the cloned version to work even with a "good" configuration. Start with the precompiled source from the ZIP files and configure for your machine.
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Re: Changed firmware, now Y and Z axis won't home

Postby q__ » 2015-Jan-Mon-10-Jan

wd5gnr wrote:Did you clone from github or download the ZIP files? I had a similar problem recently. The preconfigured files were workable but required modification for my machine wrt. The configuration is not one size fits all. However, I never did get the cloned version to work even with a "good" configuration. Start with the precompiled source from the ZIP files and configure for your machine.

I downloaded the .zip file, opened the Marlin.pde file with the prescribed Arduino IDE (with the correct board selected), edited those 2 lines, then compiled it, grabbed the output .hex file, and wrote it to the board with Atmel Flip.

How could I edit the probe points with a pre-compiled source? Is that what I did?
What sorts of configuration should I need to do? I re-entered the proper steps/mm and build area in G-code after the re-flash... Is there more?

I downloaded THIS file, which is a pre-compiled .hex file specifically for the simple metal...
https://github.com/Printrbot/Marlin/rel ... eMetal.hex
And it works fine... but how can I take this, and edit my probe points? That's really all I need.

RetireeJay wrote:I see that you said you checked the electrical connections, but this still sounds like a connection problem. The X and Y homing switches are "normally closed" (have electrical continuity) until the lever is pressed; then they become "open circuit." If they are not plugged in to the board, then the board sees them as open circuit and thinks that it's at "home" all the time. When that is the case, it will just move a couple of mm away from the switch every time you tell it to go home.

You can check the status of the switches as seen by the board by using the M119 command. If the board tells you a particular homing switch is "TRIGGERED" then that means it's sensing an open circuit for that switch.


The switch is operating properly (it has 0 continuity when pressed, and full when open), and it moves TOWARDS the switch just a bit when I hit the home button.
That also doesn't explain the Z-axis acting weird, either.

I tried flipping the Z-motor wire around to see what that would do. I put the head close to the bed, and:
The Z-stage moves downwards for about 1/3", crashes into the bed, then pauses, moves down a bit more (exactly like before, but in reverse), then it moves back upwards until the Z-probe is no longer "triggered"... weird.
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Re: Changed firmware, now Y and Z axis won't home

Postby q__ » 2015-Jan-Mon-10-Jan

I solved my own problem.

It must have just been something with the firmware I got from Github.
I downloaded the source code for the latest Rev-4 release from HERE
https://github.com/Printrbot/Marlin/releases/
then changed the same 2 lines to change my probe points.
It now works fine, and probes exactly where I want it to!

It's working great!
Now I just need to hook that heat-bed up so this PLA will actually stick...
P1200943.JPG
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Re: SOLVED: Changed firmware, now Y and Z axis won't home

Postby TutherJay » 2015-Jan-Tue-17-Jan

Whoa! This sounds eerily familiar, though I'm running a Plus v2. All I was trying to do was raise the MAXTEMP to 300 because when my Pbot tried to jump on the bed it kept banging its head on that 275 ceiling. Aiming a little lower and slowly sneaking up on my target temp didn't work, either. So I figured - nuisance or no, it's time to redo firmware again.

First I had no end of trouble getting Flip to recognize the Printrboard, perhaps because of the disagreement between the available drivers from the INF file that came from ATMEL and the device choices within Flip. The former was (if mammary serves) AT90USB128 but the latter only offered ...1286 or ...1287 - nothing just ...128. So after swatting at those bugs for an hour or two I bailed, booted up in Linux instead of Windoze, and wrote my bin file w/ dfu-programmer. But back in Win8.1 to run RHost I discovered that, although I could zip right up to my target 270 degrees without crashing and burning, the X, Y and Z motors were tarded. In my case, at least Z had the right direction, but X and Y seemed backerds and - weirder still - checking the boxes in the printer config to reverse those motors flipped SOMETHING, but certainly did NOT FIX anything! I still couldn't home James, and, no, in case you're wondering, a reboot did nothing to remedy the malady.

Then there was the strangeness where I lost my config. First thing on booting up the new fware I wanted to set some of the param's I'd saved before undertaking the update. Should have been simple, unless I'm slipping a cog in the gray matter (already). M500 writes, M501 reads, M502 resets to factory, M503 reports current sets. And these are available via GUI in RH's Config menu, Firmware EEPROM Config option -- or so I thought. Sure didn't behave as expected, though since I lacked the patience to REPEAT the processes for doc/debug porpoises, I'll not attempt to recall details. Basically, it looked to me as if my M501 performed an M502 instead, but I couldn't prove it in a court of law.

So the ?good news? is that reverting to the stock unified-v3 got my motors back in shape, but trying to operate at 265 STILL spazzed out and hit the ceiling! So I'm going to try a rebuild AGAIN, to see what I can break this time.

Oh - might mention something that I've always been disappointed in when I grow my own fware: one of the 1st suggestions is to enter one's name in config.h so it shows in appropriate places when you're running it. I've always done that, and at times included more notes, but NEVER have I seen any sign of the strings I created - ANYWHERE - short of going into my bin file w/ a hex editor and confirming that, in fact, my INITIALS ARE THERE!

Oh well. . . .
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TutherJay
PrintRbot+ v2 built from kit, hatched Sept 9, 2013
PowerTower & RPi/OctoPrint kits added
Repetier/Slic3r mostly; sometimes RPi:OctoPrint
1.75mm via direct drive gear head extruder
(temporarily abandoning Bowden mod - Bridge wouldn't fit thru)
E3D v5 hotend w/ Volcano Eruption upgrade
Stock LC ply bed now adjusted by 3 points, not 4
6mm heated glass (non-borosilicate) (now missing divot from BluPrint adhering TOO well)
<sigh>
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Re: SOLVED: Changed firmware, now Y and Z axis won't home

Postby RetireeJay » 2015-Jan-Tue-17-Jan

Welcome back, TJ

Yeah, they hide that line pretty well. If you look in "language.h" you'll find the line of text that gets echoed back to the computer when the Pboard comes online.

The source code for Unified is available, so you should be able to go into the various flavors of "...configuration...h" and make most of your changes. The other place to look is in "Thermistortables.h" If the table doesn't define a temperature between 250 and infinity, then it doesn't matter whether your threshold for kicking out on an over-temp is 251 or 299; any temperature over 250 is gonna look extreme.
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
"My next printer is..." Prusa i3 MK3, upgraded to MK3S
User avatar
RetireeJay
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Re: SOLVED: Changed firmware, now Y and Z axis won't home

Postby TutherJay » 2015-Jan-Tue-19-Jan

Hey - thanks bro

There does exist the THEORETICAL possibility that I SHOULD be reaching for my glasses more often as time progresses, but de Nile ain't just a river!

As for those variables in question, though, I thunk I was just following directions, and I coulda swore they pointed to STRING_CONFIG_H_AUTHOR in configuration.h (and optionally STRING_VERSION_CONFIG_H for date & time, but I'll be dipped if I can make that work, either!) It just seems odd that, when I carefully follow the destructions it doesn't come out anywhere NEAR the size of the PBHQ supplied hex file - mine's like a THIRD the size of theirs!

As for the T-tables, I did hunt that down to be sure what I could get away with, which is 300. Sure would be NICE if that could be set in EEPROM by software AFTER the fact, like some of the other param's that we fiddle with. That might make thermistor swapping less of a chore, albeit still non-trivial. Perhaps I should just cut to the chase, so to speak, and go for the thermocouple - like I'm short in the to-do list now? No - I just spotted a flipped boolean in config.h that ??? I DON'T HAVE ANY IDEA HOW IT GOT TOGGLED!!!???? What - sleep coding now? Yikes! ??INVERT_Y_DIR was FALSE??? It's TRUE in the "fresh" D/L of UnifiedV3 that I just looked at. Weird.

Well, I'd bester get back at it. Obviously there are gremlins in my house!

Good to hear from ye!

tj :?
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TutherJay
PrintRbot+ v2 built from kit, hatched Sept 9, 2013
PowerTower & RPi/OctoPrint kits added
Repetier/Slic3r mostly; sometimes RPi:OctoPrint
1.75mm via direct drive gear head extruder
(temporarily abandoning Bowden mod - Bridge wouldn't fit thru)
E3D v5 hotend w/ Volcano Eruption upgrade
Stock LC ply bed now adjusted by 3 points, not 4
6mm heated glass (non-borosilicate) (now missing divot from BluPrint adhering TOO well)
<sigh>
User avatar
TutherJay
Waiting for printbed temp...
 
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