Rev F6 Firmware for Older Models

Troubleshooting talk for software

Rev F6 Firmware for Older Models

Postby woodworks » 2016-Oct-Thu-22-Oct

Hi all!
I've been going in circles recently.. My old rev D board fried a few months ago, and I was hoping to replace it with a new rev F6 board. Without thinking it through, I quickly came to realise that the newest firmware has a different y direction zero and utilises bed leveller. I have the printrbot plus v2.1, so obviously the current firmware wont work. Contacting printrbot lead me no where, as they decide not to respond (great customer support).
Does anybody happen to know how or where to obtain this rare firmware? I'm not sure if the Rev D firmware would work with F6, even if it did I can't seem to find that either. I imagine this isn't an uncommon issue, but googling doesn't seem to lead me anywhere. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys,

-Addy
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Rev F6 Firmware for Older Models

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Re: Rev F6 Firmware for Older Models

Postby RetireeJay » 2016-Oct-Fri-05-Oct

I faced exactly the same situation several months ago. I solved it by compiling my own version of the latest Printrbot RevF firmware, correcting the Y direction and eliminating the probing. These changes were all done in the Configuration files. However, turning off the probing feature messed up the saving and restoration of EEPROM data, so I also had to mess around with the actual code for that. You can find a lot of the things I had to do in the "sticky" thread about PlatformIO in Software Hack Talk. There's also a post I wrote about transitioning from Rev D to Rev F (use Advanced search).

OTOH, if you prefer, I can share my code with you. Hoever, there may be some differences that matter to you. My machine bed limits are 187mm X 189mm instead of 200mm due to mods I've made. Also, I shortened the time for "waiting for temperature stabilization" from 10 sec to 5 sec to better match how I initialize my machine and prime the extruder. EDIT: Also, my firmware is set up for an E3D extruder, which uses a different thermistor from the stock Ubis. AFIK, the Z "endstop" polarity will be correct if you are using the original switch or an equivalent. My firmware is set up to leave the Z motors on all the time. If your Z motors are of a certain vintage (e.g. with "MakerBot 5002" etched into the back plate), they may be rated for "12V" operation, and keeping them on will make them become very hot. I have replaced my Z motors with motors (Nema 17 Bipolar Stepper 2.8V 1.33A 22Ncm(31oz.in) 17HS13-1334S from omc-stepperonline.com) that have a much lower voltage rating (the control circuit controls CURRENT, not voltage, and the lower voltage rating means they dissipate less power due to resistance in the copper windings).
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
"My next printer is..." Prusa i3 MK3, upgraded to MK3S
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Re: Rev F6 Firmware for Older Models

Postby musk » 2016-Oct-Fri-16-Oct

woodworks wrote:Hi all!
I've been going in circles recently.. My old rev D board fried a few months ago, and I was hoping to replace it with a new rev F6 board. Without thinking it through, I quickly came to realise that the newest firmware has a different y direction zero and utilises bed leveller. I have the printrbot plus v2.1, so obviously the current firmware wont work. Contacting printrbot lead me no where, as they decide not to respond (great customer support).
Does anybody happen to know how or where to obtain this rare firmware? I'm not sure if the Rev D firmware would work with F6, even if it did I can't seem to find that either. I imagine this isn't an uncommon issue, but googling doesn't seem to lead me anywhere. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys,

-Addy


Printrbot supplies official backwards-compatible firmware on their github page here: https://github.com/Printrbot/Marlin/releases/tag/RevF-Ver5-Legacy
It homes to the correct position for the older machine but it does have the inductive probe enabled. Perhaps you can download that source code and remove the probing portion.
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Re: Rev F6 Firmware for Older Models

Postby Mooselake » 2016-Oct-Fri-18-Oct

Or just don't add the probing to your startup gcode

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Re: Rev F6 Firmware for Older Models

Postby RetireeJay » 2016-Oct-Fri-21-Oct

Mooselake wrote:Or just don't add the probing to your startup gcode

Kirk


Check the output from an M501 command to see if there's an EEPROM setting to control whether the Y axis homes to zero or max. If not, then at least use the firmware referenced by musk. Kirk is right, even if your installed firmware supports probing, that doesn't mean you have to use it.
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
"My next printer is..." Prusa i3 MK3, upgraded to MK3S
User avatar
RetireeJay
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Re: Rev F6 Firmware for Older Models

Postby woodworks » 2016-Oct-Sun-13-Oct

Hey guys,
Using the Github link, the printer is now homing correctly on the Y axis! Now I need to figure out how to fix the probing command... I did attempt to use printrbots how to guide of switching the end stop wiring, but that didn't really help. It zeros every time I hit the z home button without moving the steppers.
I am interested in Mooselakes comment "Or just don't add the probing to your startup gcode" is there a guide for that somewhere? I'm not that great with programming, but I'm willing to give that a shot. Thanks again guys, you're making my week.

-Addy
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Re: Rev F6 Firmware for Older Models

Postby RetireeJay » 2016-Oct-Sun-14-Oct

woodworks wrote:I am interested in Mooselakes comment "Or just don't add the probing to your startup gcode" is there a guide for that somewhere? I'm not that great with programming, but I'm willing to give that a shot.


Very simple. Assuming that you are using Cura, then you go into the "Start / End G-code" tab and you'll see something resembling this:
CuraStartingCode.PNG

Notice that all the lines that begin with a semcolon are in green. That means they are not active; they are ignored. But lines without a semicolon are in black, and they are active. They will become an active part at the beginning of the G-code that Cura generates to tell the printer how to print your part. So look over the code in your own Cura Start.gcode and either "comment out" any line that starts with "G29" (by putting a semicolon at the start) or even simply delete the line.

BTW, there are equivalent configuration commands for Slic3r in case you are using it to slice your files and then printing with Repetier (all slicer packages and all User Interface packages support these commands; only the screens look different).

You can easily check the status of your Z switch with the M119 command. In Cura, click on "File" then "Print" (even if you don't have any part loaded into Cura). This will bring up the "Pronterface" User Interface to your printer. Observe in the lower right corner a space where you type in G-code commands such as "M119":
CuraPronterfaceEmulator-M119.PNG

After you hit the Enter key, you will see the current status of the X, Y, and Z "endstop" switches (or Z probe).
CuraPronterfaceEmulator-M119Result.PNG


For the X and Y channels, when an "endstop" switch is closed-circuit, that means that the endstop is NOT triggered. When the switch goes to open-circuit, then the endstop status IS "TRIGGERED." These channels are configured for a switch, and there's a "pullup" resistor that makes the sense voltage +5V when the switch is open-circuit. When the switch is closed, it connects the sense lead (usually yellow) to ground (usually black), making it zero volts. However, the Z channel is considerably different; it has an inverting transistor in between the sense lead and the input to the microcomputer chip - and I am not sure which "sense" is defined as "open" or "TRIGGERED" on that pin. Hence the need to test with the M119 command.

The Printrbot instructions have two parts. One part has you changing the plus lead from 12V down to 5V - that's the part where you just move a jumper on the board. The other part apparently has you reversing the "sense" of the switch so it's closed when triggered and open circuit when the carriage is away from the switch. Then they apparently have you connecting the +5V directly to the switch, so the inverting transistor will see +5V on its input when the switch is closed (the carriage is at zero), and the input will be open-circuited when the switch is open; internal resistors in the "transistor" package pull the sense voltage to ground when the switch is open-circuit. (The schematic shows a FET transistor, but the Bill of Materials shows a bipolar junction transistor with an input resistor network.)
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
"My next printer is..." Prusa i3 MK3, upgraded to MK3S
User avatar
RetireeJay
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Re: Rev F6 Firmware for Older Models

Postby woodworks » 2016-Oct-Sun-15-Oct

Awesome!! That seemed to do the trick!! But now there is one last issue, and I truly think it is. The printer wont let me move beyond 100mm on the x and y axis. I'm set up in repetier with maximum distance for x and y to 200mm. Checking the steps per mm, it seems to be bang on.
I'm assuming this has to be edited in the firmware, unfortunately. But If you guys know how to fix this too, I'll be REALLY impressed! You guys helped me tremendously, especially Jay. Thanks again,

-Addy
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Re: Rev F6 Firmware for Older Models

Postby RetireeJay » 2016-Oct-Sun-16-Oct

Do an M503 and see if there is a line in the resulting list of settings for bed size, with the code M211. If so, you are in luck: just plug in your correct bed size using that command. This is an EEPROM setting. Once you make a change, be sure to use M500 to save the settings.

If no M211 is available, then you'll need to either find another version of the firmware that does support M211, or else compile your own, or else use a version that someone else has compiled for you.
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
"My next printer is..." Prusa i3 MK3, upgraded to MK3S
User avatar
RetireeJay
My next printer is...
 
Posts: 4992
Joined: 2013-Jan-Wed-13-Jan
Location: Greenville, SC
Reputation: 498

Re: Rev F6 Firmware for Older Models

Postby woodworks » 2016-Oct-Mon-15-Oct

Jay, I dont know what to say. You are the best!! My printrbot is now fully functional. What a HUGE relief!! I thought I was going to have to buy another printer. Fantastic information, I can't wait to start printing again. Thanks for everybody's help.

-Addy
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