Calibration Settings for Printrbot Simple 1401, Repetier

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Calibration Settings for Printrbot Simple 1401, Repetier

Postby keeleyhaftner » 2016-Sep-Tue-14-Sep

Hello all! I go back and forth between my Duplicator i3 and Printrbot Simple Maker's Edition (1401). I print through Cura and calibrate through Pronterface and Repetier. After downloading Cura 15.04.6 I had to do some recalibration for the Duplicator, and that totally messed up my Printrbot because I didn't at the time have separate profiles in Repetier (which I was using).

WHAT ARE ALL THE BASIC APPROPRIATE CALIBRATION SETTINGS FOR THE PRINTRBOT 1401? I looked all over the Printrbot site but their legacy software only has 1402+ in the Google Drive file), and software has obviously changed since this model's first release. Everything is messed up settings-wise (prints but not at the right scale and not cleanly or centered) and I'm an artist with a deadline for printing. A fast response would be so very much appreciated!
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Calibration Settings for Printrbot Simple 1401, Repetier

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Re: Calibration Settings for Printrbot Simple 1401, Repetier

Postby RetireeJay » 2016-Sep-Tue-15-Sep

Does your Simple use fishing line to move X and Y, or does it use toothed belts? If it uses fishing line, you pretty much have to calibrate it yourself. Toothed belts have well-defined calibrations.
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
"My next printer is..." Prusa i3 MK3
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Re: Calibration Settings for Printrbot Simple 1401, Repetier

Postby keeleyhaftner » 2016-Sep-Wed-05-Sep

Hi Retiree Jay,

I have a string belt not a toothed belt. Trouble is though, I'm enough of a noob that I only know basics, and maybe I'm using the wrong language. I have a page with the settings I need for XY gcode (from zheng3's site), but I guess what I perhaps mean is that my settings and EEPROM is all messed up? I don't know the first thing about what these should be, and all the numbers I got were from various forums and were what messed me up in the first place. I adjusted PID, and did Slicr configuration based on these numbers/recommendations. So I guess maybe I'm looking for settings in general, then?
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Re: Calibration Settings for Printrbot Simple 1401, Repetier

Postby RetireeJay » 2016-Sep-Wed-06-Sep

OK, let's go back to basics. Although some people a long time ago recommended using "header" code in your G-code file to set the calibration constants, IMHO that is counter-productive. ESPECIALLY if you are going back and forth between two machines. You should have your settings stored in EEPROM on each machine (assuming EEPROM is available on your other machine) and let all the vital constants be loaded from EEPROM each time you turn your machine on.

So, what EEPROM settings are there?
X, Y, Z, and E steps per millimeter (M92).
X, Y, Z, and E maximum feedrate, millimeters per second (M203)
X, Y, Z, and E maximum acceleration, mm^2 per second (M201)
several other more esoteric settings for "jerk", minimum segment time, etc. (M204, M205)
P, I, and D settings for temperature control (M301)
Some models of Printrbot have EEPROM parameters to set the printable dimensions, but yours probably does not
Some models have parameters associated with the bed-leveling probe, but yours probably does not.

Here is the really great news for you: You can restore your machine to "Factory Settings" by issuing an M502 command. I suggest you look at this post: viewtopic.php?f=18&t=2763

So after doing a factory reset, make sure that your slicer is NOT issuing any commands involving M92, M201, M203, M204, M205, or M301.

Next, you really will need to calibrate your X, Y, and E steps/mm (Z is probably OK, as it relies on a threaded rod, not a string). The procedure in every case is similar, so I will walk you through X:
1) Issue an M503 command to see what is there. Look for the line with Steps per mm, with an M92 Xxx Yyy Zzz. Write down the value for X (perhaps it's X95.3).
2) Home your machine in X and Z. Put a ruler on the bed, lined up with the nozzle (or cover the bed with paper and put a mark where the nozzle is).
3) Tell the machine to move 100mm in the X direction. Now measure how far it actually moved. If it's not exactly 100mm then you need to adjust the calibration factor for X.
4) Let's say that your machine moved 104mm instead of 100mm. That means you are telling it to move too many steps per mm. So 95.3 is too high. Take the ratio (100/104) and multiply that by 95.3. That means take 0.96153 X 95.3 = 91.634 should be your new X steps per mm.
5) Issue the command M92 X91.634 to change the active value being used. Repeat steps 2 and 3 to verify that your calibration is now correct.
6) When the value is correct, issue the command M500 to save the new value (actually all active values) into EEPROM.

When you calibrate E, you will be measuring the quantity of filament going INTO your extruder, not the quantity coming out.

If you are still using the original Ubis Hot End, you probably don't have to retune the PID settings. But if the Hot End is very slow to reach setpoint, or if it is bouncing up and down around the setpoint but never settling down, then you should re-tune the PID. Never attempt to change the PID values by hand, you will only dig yourself into a deeper and deeper pit; use the auto-tune procedure built into Marlin.
1) With the Hot End at near room temperature, issue this command: M303 S210 C3.
2) This command will take several minutes to execute. It will heat up the hot end to the Setpoint of 210, then let it cool a bit, then heat it up again until it has completed three Cycles.
3) When the command finishes, it will tell you the new values for P, I, and D. You can write these down if you want, but the main thing is to immediately issue the M500 command to save the new values into EEPROM.

Your Factory default values for acceleration, jerk, etc. should be good enough to get you running.

Once you actually start printing, you may want to print some calibration shapes to re-verify your X and Y settings - but the principles given above will still apply.
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
"My next printer is..." Prusa i3 MK3
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RetireeJay
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Re: Calibration Settings for Printrbot Simple 1401, Repetier

Postby keeleyhaftner » 2016-Sep-Thu-18-Sep

RetireeJay,

You are a Printrbot forum savior. I knew how to calibrate but (duh!) was unsure if that was what was needed. Print wrong size = calibrate. Hello.
And auto EEPROM - SOOOO good. Will use this forever now. Thank you!

One last question though - I've never calibrated E before... you said 'measure filament going in - I'm not entirely sure what that means... should i measure from on top of the feedscrew, send 100mm through, marker 100mm on the filament (and maybe 10mm segments after that in case it pushes more than expected?) and see how that number compares? Submit the M92, lather rinse and repeat? Or did you mean some other way? I might just leave that be but if you clarify perhaps I'll give it a go...

Thanks again!
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Re: Calibration Settings for Printrbot Simple 1401, Repetier

Postby RetireeJay » 2016-Sep-Thu-21-Sep

keeleyhaftner wrote:One last question though - I've never calibrated E before... you said 'measure filament going in - I'm not entirely sure what that means... should i measure from on top of the feedscrew, send 100mm through, marker 100mm on the filament (and maybe 10mm segments after that in case it pushes more than expected?) and see how that number compares? Submit the M92, lather rinse and repeat? Or did you mean some other way? I might just leave that be but if you clarify perhaps I'll give it a go...


Here is my answer to that question in another thread: viewtopic.php?f=21&t=11101#p71284
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
"My next printer is..." Prusa i3 MK3
User avatar
RetireeJay
My next printer is...
 
Posts: 4936
Joined: 2013-Jan-Wed-13-Jan
Location: Greenville, SC
Reputation: 495

Re: Calibration Settings for Printrbot Simple 1401, Repetier

Postby keeleyhaftner » 2016-Sep-Fri-00-Sep

TY TY Retiree Jay - I got it from here!
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keeleyhaftner
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