Printer creates faulty standalone circles on first layer

Troubleshooting talk for software

Printer creates faulty standalone circles on first layer

Postby CantSayIHave » 2017-Jul-Sun-17-Jul

Hi,

I have a fully working Simple Metal which has worked amazingly for the past two years. I'm addressing a long-standing issue which I have avoided for quite some time.

When I print objects that have vertical holes, as in, a circle present inside the first layer, it tends to screw up the print. What happens is the printer extrudes the outer wall, then jumps to the inside, tries to do the circles quickly, but almost always pulls the extruded circular filament with it to the next circle, messing up the first layer. Sometimes the print still comes out fine, but usually I have to restart the print or change the gcode.

I'm asking here because I don't thing doing an M212 down any more would help, as the rest of the layer is extruded at perfect height. I've even seen more problems occur when I do change my current M212. So far I have slowed down the first layer and turned on the fan, but it basically does the same thing, slower. Is there a way to get the slicer to extrude inner walls last? If the infill is already present, I believe the circle extrusion would stay in place.

Thank you!

Edit: I do have a heated bed
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Printer creates faulty standalone circles on first layer

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Re: Printer creates faulty standalone circles on first layer

Postby RetireeJay » 2017-Jul-Sun-18-Jul

What are you using for your slicer? If you are using Slic3r, there is an option for printing walls from inside to out or outside to in.
Just a side note - not your exact issue - but it's a common phenomenon among ALL FDM printers (printers that extrude heated plastic) that circular holes tend to come out undersized. Even the $10k industrial printers do this.
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Re: Printer creates faulty standalone circles on first layer

Postby CantSayIHave » 2017-Jul-Mon-00-Jul

I'm using Cura, I should have mentioned that. And I'm aware of the smaller circles thing, I noticed that a while ago. My main problem is getting the strand to stick to the bed.
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Re: Printer creates faulty standalone circles on first layer

Postby RetireeJay » 2017-Jul-Mon-06-Jul

What you are looking for is better first-layer adhesion. There are hundreds of posts about this. Among the topics:
- Bed material (base and coatings)
- Bed cleanliness (very important)
- Bed Temperature
- Extrusion temperature for the first layer (not sure if Cura does that)
- Over-extrusion for the first layer (not sure if Cura does that)
- Very fine adjustment of first layer thickness (increments of 0.05mm)
etc. viewtopic.php?f=16&t=7033&p=46073&hilit=adhesion#p46073

BTW, you can use Slic3r to do the slicing (generate a G-code file) and Cura to do the printing from that file.
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
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Re: Printer creates faulty standalone circles on first layer

Postby CantSayIHave » 2017-Jul-Mon-10-Jul

I understand. The main reason I came here to ask is because the rest of the first layer sticks wonderfully, but the process itself of putting down a circle without any nearby extrusion and then jumping causes these inner circles not to stick.

I think I'll try Slic3r.
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Re: Printer creates faulty standalone circles on first layer

Postby Mooselake » 2017-Jul-Mon-16-Jul

Try what RJ says. Circles, especially small circles, are about the worst stick case. Besides low speed and minimal first layer head clearance you could try a stick agent. I'm a glue stick fan, others swear by (or at) hairspray, super clean blue tape, PEI (or other sticky plastic beds), and a bunch of other products. I've tried a lot of them, currently using gluestick on PEI for a belt and suspenders approach, for PLA 60C bed temp, and whatever temperature that spool likes best.

Or you could go old fashioned and try a raft for the tough stuff, but it'll be a nuisance to remove and not give the best bottom finish.

Kirk
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