Master calibration post/list?

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Master calibration post/list?

Postby allanonmage » 2014-Aug-Sat-23-Aug

I finally got around to tinkering with my Printerbot LC again. I upgraded the Y rods from Lowe's specials to ones rated for 3D printers and now the Y axis wobbles a LOT less if I move it back and forth. Against good technician practices, I also changed out the X axis belt to the GT2 belt I had purchased a while back at the same time.

I remember doing the calibration, and tried to search the forums for the calibration guides, and was not able to find stickies or effectively able to use the search. Eventually I found one in the **software** section. I guess it's a software thing, but my first thought is that calibration is a hardware thing, so I was going crazy looking there. Can we get a global sticky with a calibration guide and links to other calibration related posts?
*edit* As I am searching for those posts, I'm updating this one to be that sticky, so it will be a good start.

Printrbot X Y Z axis and extruder [sic] calibration
Postby plexus » 15 Jan 2013 23:11
viewtopic.php?f=29&t=2189

Calibration Constants Tutorial
by RetireeJay » 13 Mar 2013 14:13
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=2763

Useful links (will expand at a later date)

Printer Calibration Gets messed up when power down??
viewtopic.php?f=29&t=6750&hilit=calibration

How to Calibrate your Printer
http://help.printrbot.com/Guide/How+to+ ... Printer/81

Search Results
http://help.printrbot.com/Guide/search/ ... alibration

Extruder Calibration
http://www.printrbottalk.com/wiki/index ... alibration


Tags:
calibrate, calibration, m92, m500, x, y, z, axis, calculate


Here's a visual of my current setup:
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Attachments
my 3d printer 08-10-2014.jpg
Last edited by allanonmage on 2015-Jan-Sat-23-Jan, edited 2 times in total.
Started with a Printrbot LC Kit; now it's a monster as big as a mid size fridge!
Single ATX Power supply, 650 watts, relay controlled heat bed
extra Z height (3+ ft) via longer rods, but I don't use it. Yet. To reduce wobble, I'm using thing:46082 under the Printrbot.
Dual heated beds, 1 currently working; space for a 3rd
Purple gluestick on glass seems to be sticky enough to get adhesion
FB album with pics: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... ec287e8726

This was supposed to be a tool, not a series of projects... grrrrr......
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Master calibration post/list?

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Re: Master calibration post/list?

Postby RetireeJay » 2014-Aug-Sun-09-Aug

I made this topic "sticky" for you.

RJ
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
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Re: Master calibration post/list?

Postby Mooselake » 2014-Aug-Sun-11-Aug

How many tooth pulley?

Given the pulley tooth count you can determine the diameter of the pulley, the circumference, and then the amount it moves for each microstep - usually 3200 steps/revolution. I googled "gt2 reprap calibration" and found Josef Prusa's calibration calculator. For the very popular 20T pulley (which may not be the one you have), and the stock 16x microstepping/200 step per rev motor it works out to 80 steps/mm.

Calculated values for standard sized pulleys are always more accurate than the print/measure technique. If you find that your printed size is off most likely you'll need to calibrate your extruder and extrusion width better, not fiddle with the steps/mm.

Extruder calibration, as TutherJay might say, is a different container of squirmy critters. There's too many variables to calculate more than a starting point, and accurate calibration will rely on measuring, extruding, and measuring, possibly followed by tweaking things like the extruder multiplier. Here in the moosecave I've determined a "good enough" steps/mm value, and usually tweak the filament size to get an accurate width.

Kirk
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Modified KickStarter Classic Plus 7/2012
KS Thingybot Delta Pro 10/31/16
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Re: Master calibration post/list?

Postby allanonmage » 2014-Aug-Mon-13-Aug

Here's the spreadsheet I wound up making. I couldn't figure out the other spreadsheets that I found online.

You'll need to read the values from your printer with the command M501 or M503, as appropriate (see wiki link below).

For the first iteration, you use rows 2 - 5, depending on which axis you're working on.
1. You'll put your existing calibration in the B column.
2. You'll tell the 'bot to move a certain amount of length. 100mm works, if you have the space. Put the value that you tell the bot to move in the C column.
3. Measure the amount that the axis actually moved, and put that in the D column.

E and F are calculated values, and will adjust once you fill in B, C, and D.

Enter the new value into your printer with the command M92, in the format:
Code: Select all
M92 X63.36 Y99.22

Where you can enter in a single, or multiple variables.
NOTE: Notice the capitalization.

Tell your printer to move the same amount of length again and measure it. If it's spot on, you're done. If not, iterate through this process till you're done. You can see in this spreadsheet I copied several more rows below the block until I was complete, fine tuning the adjustment as I went.

When you are done, commit your changes to EEPROM with an M500 command.

NOTE: More info on M50X codes:
http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#Proposed_ ... tion_codes
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Attachments
XYZE calibration to share.xlsx
(9.5 KiB) Downloaded 59 times
Started with a Printrbot LC Kit; now it's a monster as big as a mid size fridge!
Single ATX Power supply, 650 watts, relay controlled heat bed
extra Z height (3+ ft) via longer rods, but I don't use it. Yet. To reduce wobble, I'm using thing:46082 under the Printrbot.
Dual heated beds, 1 currently working; space for a 3rd
Purple gluestick on glass seems to be sticky enough to get adhesion
FB album with pics: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... ec287e8726

This was supposed to be a tool, not a series of projects... grrrrr......
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allanonmage
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Posts: 181
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Re: Master calibration post/list?

Postby thawkins » 2014-Sep-Thu-07-Sep

muskan wrote:Nice post. I like it. Thanks for sharing these information. Keep it up.


Another one.............
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Jonbot+
225mm x 200mm - Heated Bed
RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin 1.1.0
Full Graphic display.
-------------------------------
Zen Toolworks CNC/3d printer
230mmx360mm bed
Dual j-head hotends.
Dual heated beds.
RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin 0.98
-------------------------------
Flashforge 3d Creator Pro
Dual Extruder
220x143x150mm
Mightyboard rev e, runnimg Sailfish 7.7r1234
-------------------------------
Photon, self designed printed printer.
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Re: Master calibration post/list?

Postby Mooselake » 2014-Sep-Thu-07-Sep

Bites the dust.

I'm starting to believe that end of quota period in Pakistan thing.

Kirk
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Modified KickStarter Classic Plus 7/2012
KS Thingybot Delta Pro 10/31/16
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Re: Master calibration post/list?

Postby Sigmoid » 2014-Nov-Mon-22-Nov

Mooselake wrote:Given the pulley tooth count you can determine the diameter of the pulley, the circumference, and then the amount it moves for each microstep - usually 3200 steps/revolution. I googled "gt2 reprap calibration" and found Josef Prusa's calibration calculator. For the very popular 20T pulley (which may not be the one you have), and the stock 16x microstepping/200 step per rev motor it works out to 80 steps/mm.

Calculated values for standard sized pulleys are always more accurate than the print/measure technique. If you find that your printed size is off most likely you'll need to calibrate your extruder and extrusion width better, not fiddle with the steps/mm.

Makes sense... Then again, I'm wondering if belt stretch might affect that value... I've been wondering that the print and measure calibration might be heavily affected by the extrusion width... then again I don't know how smart the slicers handle piece widths...
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