APS wrote: I am assuming this is a problem with the power supply. Will it be resolved if I simply buy a new power supply? Can anyone recommend a good (more suitable) model?
APS wrote: is there anything reason this happened now and not sooner, has this just been waiting to happen for weeks?!?
APS wrote:I've checked the heated bed area and there's no sign of any heat or problems.
APS wrote:So, I need a new power supply and Y cable.
APS wrote: You've suggested replacing these wires as well, obviously they're connected to the motors, will it be adequate to cut out the damaged length of wires out and re-connect them?
recently I got a misadventure which could put fire to my home. the kapton holding the thermistor start to peel off so for marlin the temp go down and he use the full power to heat the hot end. which go far over the peek possibilities so the hot part pop out the thread in the peek, the tubing go out of the peek , befor to cool in a weird shape. til now it is not abnormal, the following is not the optimal behaviour on a safety point of view.
the thermistor peel out completly so the cold extrusion prevention kick in and stop extrusion. But the power is still on full power , the hot end was getting hotter and hotter making a mess of the part partially printed (which i don't care) but making a lot of smelly and irritating smoke and couls have taking fire.
Is there a possibility to add as a safety that if the cold extrusion prevention kick in, one minute after, the hot end power is stopped and the print ended ? the printed part is ruined anyway.
I don't know if my story is a frequent one, but if a thermistor wire break down the result will be the same. even if is not frequent the risks are enough to make the software with a fail safe against it.
lwalkera wrote:AFAIK, Marlin already has that. Search the config for MIN_TEMP.
Porter wrote:Just reading through this post, and I don't know if this applies to the newer PSU that ship with the Printrbot+ V2, but I didn't get the Y adaptor in my kit.
Has something been put in place in the newer models or should I be looking at purchasing one of those cables so that I the change of a fire is reduced?
REPRAP SQUAD wrote:That's why I made a mount for this little guy. I also have text messaging sent when smoke or fire starts as well as IP camera. I also recently added a full graded fire extinguisher within 15 FT of my prototyping lab at all times. It's just a good idea when dealing with these temps and power requirements.
Did you somehow solder your XT60 connector directly to the original Molex connector pins? (It seems to me that would be risky because applying force to connect or disconnect the XT60 halves would be putting mechanical strain on the solder joint.) Or did you use short pigtails of wire wrapped and soldered around the Molex pins and soldered on the other end to the XT60 connector - making a "floating" connection with the wire coming from the heated bed?
amarisJones wrote:I think I may have missed something here. Because I am interested in this topic.
As far as I know.Replaced connector with XT60 ! The wires on the 4 Pin CPU cable from the PSU are still HOT.
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