Yes, my Prusa MK3 has a probe. So now, instead of turning a screw to adjust the clearance precisely, I use a knob on the LCD screen to adjust the clearance precisely. Is that any easier? No. On my Plus, I had a knob for adjusting the screw, with about the same ratio of adjustment per revolution.
Oh, and by the way, the Z adjust program that's burned into the stock firmware insists that you must use PLA while calibrating Z; I never use PLA, so I had to learn how to rewrite source code in order to enable calibrating with PETG. And I'm not just talking about settings in a configuration file, I mean real hands-on-the-metal C++ code! (I submitted my mods to the GitHub site, but they have been ignored.

) (Git/GitHub is so convoluted I had to take a paid online course before I could grasp what was going on!)
Oh, and by the way, the machine runs through a probing sequence at the beginning of every print. Not the fine-tuning calibration I mentioned in the previous paragraph, but a 9-point probing sequence that introduces a small but finite probability of an error if the nozzle happens to land on a leftover bit of filament still on the bed from the previous probing sequence. Basically a waste of time; the bed is in the same place as it was before.
So, I use the probing because it's embedded deeply in the whole system and it would be very hard to remove, but I would be perfectly happy with a machine that did not have a probe.
It's true that the MK3 has a removable, magnetically-held print surface and I guess if I was swapping out print surfaces the probe would compensate for any thickness difference. But I don't have a spare; I'm only using one surface.
Congrats to Kirk / Mooselake for getting his snowbird residence; I hope it works out really well for him.
I kinda like upstate South Carolina myself: extremely low probability of hurricane, tornado, or heavy snowfall, but we do have four seasons (albeit Yoopers wouldn't call our winter a real winter).