Reset x/y/z

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Reset x/y/z

Postby dwittenberg » 2016-Dec-Mon-00-Dec

This seems fairly easy, but how do you reset x/y/z to the correct places? Right now they are all messed up after a firmware reset and nothing seems to have helped so far, I figured there has to be some low-level way to force this back to what it should be? It's a Printrbot Plus.

Any suggestions welcome, so far nobody can seem to help, this is very frustrating!

Dan
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Reset x/y/z

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Re: Reset x/y/z

Postby RetireeJay » 2016-Dec-Mon-08-Dec

Exactly what do you mean by a "firmware reset?" Did you actually re-flash the firmware on your board? If so, what was the reason for doing so?

I'm not quite sure I understand the problem. But there are three numbers that the 'bot uses for each axis:

1) Steps per millimeter. This is the "scale" and determines how big your print will be. For several years now, Printrbots have been shipped with GT2 belts, which have 80 steps per mm on the X and Y axes. If you have a really old Plus and you've never replaced the belts and pulleys, then your steps/mm may be different. The steps per mm on the Z axis depends on the type of screw used to actuate Z. In all cases, (X, Y, Z; new or old) you should use the steps per mm that are calculated from the hardware you are using. The steps per mm are in EEPROM, stored in the M92 parameters. You read out the EEPROM with M503 command; you can make changes with M92, and then store back into EEPROM with M500. See viewtopic.php?f=18&t=2763.

2) Location of origin. Consumer-grade 3D printers never have sensors that tell the printer where the printhead is actually located. They work by doing a "home" command first, and then keeping track of the steps moved away from home. Every time you power down the printer, the information about "home" is lost, so every time you turn it on it's necessary to do a "homing" sequence. Most slicers, by default, incorporate this homing sequence into the beginning of the G-code for printing a part. But you also can do it yourself, using the little "home" icons on the User Interface screen (that's how I do it).

3) Limits of travel. This is essentially the bed size in X and Y, and the available height in Z. Every version of firmware available has pre-defined default limits set up internally. Unfortunately, not every version of Marlin has available EEPROM settings that would allow you to change those limits. When you do an M503, look for a line in the resulting log file that says it's defining the limits of travel. This will probably be called Max Position and probably be defined as M211. If you have this available in your EEPROM, you can change the numbers. If your version of Marlin doesn't have it available in EEPROM, and you are sure that your limits of travel are wrong, then you'll have to flash a different version of Marlin that either does have the right limits or allows you to change them.
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
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Re: Reset x/y/z

Postby dwittenberg » 2016-Dec-Tue-01-Dec

Great detailed info, I'll do some more checking and see what the EEPROM says, kinda thinking some values were set wrong in the flash update. The reason for the update was it was really old and was having some issues so it was suggested to go to the latest version.
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Re: Reset x/y/z

Postby dwittenberg » 2017-Feb-Tue-20-Feb

Ok so back to trying to fix this. It's a Printrbot Plus v2. from 2013. I can't remember the original problem now but when we were looking realized the firmware was a couple years old, so figured it would be good to update it. After updating, when I click the home for the X axis it appears to reset correctly. When I click Y Home, it goes back and continues going back ever after hitting the stop switch, and Z does about the same thing, it actually goes up, and just keeps going up. For the heck of it I tried flashing the firmware again using the pbFU app, but that didn't change anything, it continue to perform the same actions. I wish I could just re-flash it with the old firwmware, but I couldn't find it poking around on the printrbot page, and not sure exactly what I'd be looking for, and the tool doesn't really tell you what it's flashing, just does it all "magically" so not even sure what version it has on there right now. FWIW, the fan and heater controls still appear to work as expected, so it's just the Y and Z axis controls for Home that appear messed up.

I'd love to be able to get my kid using this again, he's learned a lot, but it's basically a door stop right now, so any help appreciated!

Thanks!
Dan
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Re: Reset x/y/z

Postby dwittenberg » 2017-Feb-Tue-21-Feb

Trying to run some of the G codes manually in Cura, I'm also seeing odd behavior. If I run G0 Z10 S1 it's all good. I run that a bunch of times it goes up. I run G0 Z-10 S1 and it goes down. However, it only goes down to about 35mm off the bed, and stops saying it hit the end stop, but it's obviously nowhere near the shutoff switch, so not sure why it thinks that's it. I tried to turn it off and manually lower the head assembly down to the bed, but when I do a Z10 a couple times, it still won't go back down past about 35mm.

Dan
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Re: Reset x/y/z

Postby RetireeJay » 2017-Feb-Tue-22-Feb

Printrbot changed their definition of where to find the Y "endstop" switch. Originally, as on your 2013 Plus, it was at Y = 0. But more recent Printrbots have had the endstop switch at Y = Max. That could explain the searching in the wrong direction on Y. I'm not sure about Z. Use M119 to check the status of the Z stop as seen by the board.

Are you still using a Rev D board, or Rev F? If you put Rev F firmware onto a Rev D board, or vice versa, then the Y endstop will NEVER be found, because they changed the mapping of the pin assignment. You can tell if you have Rev F firmware by issuing an M909 command (read the "digipots"). If the firmware answers that command, then you have Rev F firmware (although I don't know what the returned value will be if you are running it on a Rev D board; it might even hang up!)

You can find a fairly good library of Printrbot-specific versions of Marlin at https://github.com/Printrbot/Marlin/releases. Scroll down until you find one that matches your situation. If you can't find an exact match, you may need to download the source code and compile it yourself. I had good success with PlatformIO, editing with Notepad++, although that was several months ago. See this long thread (I'm starting you in the middle, but you still need to read a lot to fully understand what to do). viewtopic.php?f=22&t=10160#p65585
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
User avatar
RetireeJay
My next printer is...
 
Posts: 4589
Joined: 2013-Jan-Wed-13-Jan
Location: Greenville, SC
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Re: Reset x/y/z

Postby dwittenberg » 2017-Mar-Sun-20-Mar

That's awesome info, and I think what I needed! I do have a Rev D board, so guessing it's got the newer firmware, though I couldn't tell for sure. M909 came back as unknown, but:
> M115
< FIRMWARE_NAME: Marlin V1 FIRMWARE_URL: https://github.com/Printrbot/Marlin/ PROTOCOL_VERSION: 1.0 MACHINE_TYPE: Printrbot Plus EXTRUDER_COUNT: 1 SERIAL_NUMBER: 553333343835151783

I don't see that it shows which version was there. Plus the github link is very handy too, so I'll check on it more but at first glance it looks fairly straight-forward. I'll probably try and compile it on my linux box since I'm more familiar with Linux/gcc/vim. I didn't see a release for RevD specifically, but maybe this one:
https://github.com/Printrbot/Marlin/rel ... unified-v3

Might do it, but I'm afraid to apply it and brick it. I'm not as familiar with these boards to know if you can still keep flashing it even if it gets the wrong or bad firmware ?

Thanks again!
Dan
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Re: Reset x/y/z

Postby RetireeJay » 2017-Mar-Sun-21-Mar

The Unified firmware is very serviceable for Rev D boards. I don't know if it can be compiled to support the Z probe and G29 command, as Unified was completed just about the same time as the probing came out. I'm sure it will work with a switch on the Z channel.

Unfortunately the location in the source code for changing the identification string that gets printed out is very obscure and in a different file from practically all the other things that might need adjusting, so it's very rare for the identification string to be kept up to date or tell you anything meaningful.

The fundamental components of the flash memory are capable of thousands (or tens of thousands) of re-writes, so the only way you'll brick the board is by what you send to it. And even then, there's a recovery possible. Normally, you program the memory through the USB port, which actually requires a small bootloader firmware to be present, but you can use a hardware ISP programmer that doesn't require a single byte of code to be operable.
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
User avatar
RetireeJay
My next printer is...
 
Posts: 4589
Joined: 2013-Jan-Wed-13-Jan
Location: Greenville, SC
Reputation: 474


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