USB connector solder

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USB connector solder

Postby Magnifico81 » 2016-Nov-Fri-15-Nov

Hi Everybody!

I've a Printrbot Play and suddenly my USB has stopped working.

I found that the USB connector has a problem... I need to solder these connector again but the distance between pins are too close.

The board says "revision 5" :/

What can I do?

Thanks in advance.
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USB connector solder

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Re: USB connector solder

Postby Mooselake » 2016-Nov-Fri-20-Nov

If you have a cell phone shop in your area they can (re)solder surface mount connections. Otherwise sparkfun.com has a series of tutorials on SMD (surface mount device) soldering.

It so easy even a moose can do it, although admittedly not all that well. Think extra solder, then using solder wick to remove the excess. You don't need solder paste or a hot air rework station (although if you have a hole on your tool shelf...), just a fine tip soldering iron, some fine solder, and some wick.

Kirk
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Re: USB connector solder

Postby Magnifico81 » 2016-Nov-Sat-06-Nov

Thank you very much. Cheers.
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Re: USB connector solder

Postby ktfergus » 2016-Nov-Wed-12-Nov

I had the same thing happen to my Play. I must live in the sticks, because every cell phone shop I called refused to even look at it. However I did get in touch with my local Makerspace & had their electronics guru look at the board. That might be an option if you can't find a cell shop. Unfortunately, he determined that the pins on my board were too far gone to resolder, so I ended up getting a new board. If you have to get a new board pay close attention to whether you need to buy the additional header pins. I don't think the newer Plays use them, but my older one does & I had to solder them in to power/control the fan & z probe.

Also, the first thing I did with the new board was print out a "strain relief" to better protect the fragile micro usb connector using ninja semi-flex.
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PrintrBot Model: 1403 (Simple Metal Assembled) :: DIY Heated Bed, with 305mm Extended X Axis
PrintrBot Model: 1403 (Simple Metal Assembled) :: 305mm x200mm DIY heated bed
PrintrBot Model: 1505 (Play) :: 100mm x 250mm DIY heated bed
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Re: USB connector solder

Postby Mooselake » 2016-Nov-Wed-17-Nov

The new boards let you order the more rugged type B (big square boxy) connector as an option. Remains to be seen what the new TingG2 boards use since they don't seem to be shipping yet. You can buy a $1000 2016 Simple if you want one, not sure that's really that cost effective. If they're the same price as the AVR board (minus the glitzy graphics...) I'd seriously consider upgrading.

I've seen hot melt glue recommended, but haven't tried it. However, if I ever take the board out again I will. The connector on my board was resoldered, and still works. I use a short mcroUSB extension cable that's zip tied to the base, as recommended here when the Kickstarter bots were new. Not bulletproof, but it helps.

A Coherent3D Mini controller has just shown up here for the K40 Laser, it's ARM based and uses Smoothieware. Still need a few more small parts before installing, including a $10 graphics LCD (if PB sells them for ten bux I'd get one of those, no question), but a review is likely in it's future. If you haven't noticed Moose are big ARM controller fans, even though we have 4 legs and no arms.

Kirk
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