Simple 1405 Maker Version Question

Simple 1405 Maker Version Question

Postby Dudemeister » 2014-Jun-Tue-15-Jun

Well, I haven't been here in a while, as I had sort of lost interest in my PB simple v2. But after seeing the newer Maker version of the simple, I sold the original one and bought a new one.

I just finished assembling the unit this past weekend and did a few prints and the look pretty good. Especially now that I added a heated PCB bed so I can print using ABS.

Anyway, the question I have is regarding the ACME rod. It's unclear what PB is using nowadays for the threaded rod. Is it metric or SAE? The quick guide shows the layer height as .1mm, which would imply it's metric, but I'm not so sure, I do see some periodic banding, so I think it may be a SAE threaded rod (1/4"-16 maybe?). Does anyone know for sure?

Some additional observations:
1. The extruder GCODE fan makes high pitch noises and sometimes doesn't even start unless it's running at 100%. It will have to be replaced.
2. I found I needed an additional fan on the extruder gear, as it has a tendency to strip the filament during long print jobs (3+ hours). The aluminum and the gear get hot and start digging in the filament.
3. The vertical (Z axis) rods didn't fit perfectly in the upper cutouts, so the entire assembly was tiled slightly, I had to file the holes a bit to straighten the assembly.
4. The auto-leveling probe is a neat idea, but it seems to have problems with glass. When using a piece of glass over the printbed, it seems to "look right through it. So I adjusted it mechanically to account for the glass. The problem is that if you have some residue, or hairspray, or other "stuff" on the glass ( making the area opaque), it screws up the adjustments. I'll try to work with it for a little longer, but I may end up going back to a traditional endstop.

On the positive side, the printer is much quieter than before, no wood creaking (yet). It's very well calibrated straight out of the box.

The addition of a heated bed is a must in my opinion. PLA, to me, is just a pin in the a$$ to work with, and I probably lost interest in the original Simple because of it. Considering how small the print area is printing large parts requires breaking the model into smaller components that need to be assembled together, usually with glue. PLA doesn't glue together for beans, CA or epoxy are OK to hold parts together but don't provide a structurally strong bond.

In general I'm pretty impressed with the latest PB simple. Brooks and his design team did themselves proud.
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Simple 1405 Maker Version Question

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Re: Simple 1405 Maker Version Question

Postby RetireeJay » 2014-Jun-Tue-15-Jun

Periodic banding is not caused by having the wrong calibration factor for the Z screw. Dimensional inaccuracy - yes; banding - no. There can be other causes for banding. viewtopic.php?f=21&t=5983
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
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E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
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Re: Simple 1405 Maker Version Question

Postby Dudemeister » 2014-Jun-Tue-17-Jun

I beg to differ with you on this.

This is not Z Wobble I'm talking about, it's periodic over-extrusion (goes all the ay around the object). Having the wrong layer height setting will crate a cumulative error that translates into a slight over-extrusion every "x" layers due to the layer height not being a multiple of an even step (the motor can only rotate in even steps).

So this is the reason I asked for that information. But it's no biggie, I can simply measure the rod myself.
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Re: Simple 1405 Maker Version Question

Postby RetireeJay » 2014-Jun-Tue-20-Jun

Dudemeister wrote:I beg to differ with you on this.

This is not Z Wobble I'm talking about, it's periodic over-extrusion (goes all the ay around the object). Having the wrong layer height setting will crate a cumulative error that translates into a slight over-extrusion every "x" layers due to the layer height not being a multiple of an even step (the motor can only rotate in even steps).

So this is the reason I asked for that information. But it's no biggie, I can simply measure the rod myself.


I'm fully aware of the theory - see this post where I teased out the math in excruciating detail: viewtopic.php?f=20&t=4596
But, in practice, it simply does not cause visibly significant ribbing.
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
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Re: Simple 1405 Maker Version Question

Postby Some Printr Noob » 2014-Jun-Tue-23-Jun

I am fairly sure the Simple 2014 and 1405 use 1/4"-16
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Re: Simple 1405 Maker Version Question

Postby Dudemeister » 2014-Jun-Thu-09-Jun

I did measure the rod, and it is indeed a 1/4"-16. That translates into a Z value of 2015.75 steps/mm, so I entered 2016 in the EEPROM configuration, and I also set the Slic3r layer thickness values to: .1032mmm, .2064mm and .3016mm respectively.

Most of the banding is now gone, with the exception of a bit of a wave on the left side of the model only, which I think may be due to the print head not being perfectly perpendicular to the print surface.

Does anyone have any ideas what else could produce banding on only one side?

Hunter Test Print.jpg
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