Printrbot Talk Forum

by **Jon Lawrence** » 2014-Jun-Thu-13-Jun

This is a continuation of the "300mm No Sag" BUT for the 1405 Makers Simple version. viewtopic.php?f=21&t=6306&start=200#p49742

Files can be found over on Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:372467

Based on the excellent modeling of the new kit from Threefer3 I have outlined some of the key points between the Simple models.
Z rod center distance spacing: 2014 Simple = 65mm / 1405 Makers Simple = 70mm
Y rod center distance spacing: 2014 Simple = 1405 Makers Simple = JL 300mm No Sag Mod = 70mm (same on all versions)
X rod center distance spacing: 2013 & 2014 Simple = 57.5mm / 1405 Makers Simple = 62mm
Z motor & ACME thread: Same location with respect to REAR Z smooth rod.
Front End: E3D will NOT fit.

Here are a couple work in progress mods to adapt to the 300mm No Sag:
I tweaked the front end to make room for an E3Dv5 so it is not exactly the same. The E3Dv6 may be too short, or you may be able to scoot it down in the mounting, somebody with one will have to confirm.

- Probe offset is 26mm
- Total of (3) fans. Extruder motor, Hot end, and Part.
- The fan mounts were quick and simple, so I gave the dimensions on the drawing to help if anybody wants to design their own.
- Cable management is not incorporated yet.

2014-06-20: Added rear mount that will work with all versions.
2014-06-23: Added short version of front end. Hopefully this will work better for E3Dv6 and Hexagon hot ends. Moved STL files over to Thingiverse.

ExtendY1405-ISO-2014-06-19.JPG
ExtendY1405-2014-06-20.JPG

**Sponsor**

by **Munson** » 2014-Jun-Thu-13-Jun

Will number 3 on the print(fan) give clearance for an XL frame?Also the front rod clamps is a great add on!!Also,could you possibly leave space for a rear endstops switch?It may be important for people like me that are not too familiar with ramps yet,until I figure out how to reverse the Y endstops settings.

by **Jon Lawrence** » 2014-Jun-Thu-14-Jun

by **Munson** » 2014-Jun-Thu-16-Jun

There is only a 17mm gap between the wall of the XL and the motor/extruder,from the looks of it from the birds eye view the fan will hit

by **Radair** » 2014-Jun-Thu-17-Jun

I'm printing the new front out right now and should be able to answer the E3Dv6 question.

by **KD6HQ** » 2014-Jun-Thu-17-Jun

I'm probably a little pre-mature on this but:

I have just ordered my first printer this past Monday the Printrbot Simple Makers Kit.
I don't even have the kit yet and I'm already interested in the Y axis upgrade.
So after some preliminary printing I plan to dive into the upgrade.
I do not have a feel about how much PLA the parts will need.
Could someone give me an idea please. I've already ordered on spool
but I do not want to run out before all the parts are done.
thanks

by **Radair** » 2014-Jun-Thu-17-Jun

by **evanalmighty** » 2014-Jun-Thu-17-Jun

1 spool is plenty. Make certain you can print flat and accurate first. Any warp in the part and you'll end up with a printer that can't print accurately.

by **LeeB** » 2014-Jun-Thu-21-Jun

My E3D v6 came in today, and the only way it will work with the old 300mm Y no sag is if I use the mount that evanalmighty created called J Head Bowden bottom from the bowden on a simple thread, otherwise it won't clear the fan shroud.

There is a E3d v6 on thingiverse that can be printed to look at options. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:341689. This model is a good matchup with the hotend that came today.

I remember seeing elsewhere that someone used the bowden version with a really short tube to mount the extruder in close proximity, if they aren't directly connected.

by **orangefurball** » 2014-Jun-Thu-22-Jun

Luckily I was able to print everything in one go!

[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/20/ene3y2at.jpg[/img]

One question though, is there any point that we can plug the extra fans into on the board?

Also, do we have to use the extruder fan if we are using a Ubis instead of an E3D?

by **Skrotus** » 2014-Jun-Thu-22-Jun

The RRD Hexagon hotend that I'm using won't fit because it's too short and the cooling fins prevent it from getting through the mount and in to the extruder. I created an adadpter to hold it a bit lower but the hotend cooling shroud prevents me from mounting it. Would you mind creating a version without the hotend shroud? I need the space just around the 3 screws that secure the extruder.

This is the adapter I'll probably need to modify it anyway but I can't see a way to get around the shroud.

by **orangefurball** » 2014-Jun-Thu-22-Jun

by **dmaxx67** » 2014-Jun-Thu-22-Jun

Appreciate the work Jon got my new makers upgrade kit and plan on building another simple out of it. You just made going with bigger dimensions easier for me.

by **Bellus** » 2014-Jun-Thu-23-Jun

First let throw this out there, my wife and kids left home for two weeks so I am trying to keep my idle hands busy.

Ok so I printed the 1405 front mount and got a chance to install almost everything. I am kind of working my way backwards so to say.

I really don't want to lose the X portion just yet. Everything looks good on the extruder mount, but, I have a E3Dv5 hotend. So can't speak for the Ubis or v6. Unfortunately I only have one 40mm fan at the moment and one 30mm(the one that comes with the hot end) I elected to use the RH fan mount for the cat track for the moment to try and manage some wires. Haven't installed the probe either, mainly because I am being a chicken about the firmware portion.

Are any of the other fans truly nessecary? I know the hot end instructions says it needs constant airflow but what about the tip fan? I read somewhere it was mainly for bridging?

by **Skrotus** » 2014-Jun-Thu-23-Jun

by **orangefurball** » 2014-Jun-Fri-00-Jun

by **dmaxx67** » 2014-Jun-Fri-07-Jun

Im not using a fan for my tip and my prints seem to be doing pretty well but im also running a heated bed. Ill post some pics and maybe ta can tell me what im not seeing

by **Jon Lawrence** » 2014-Jun-Fri-09-Jun

by **Jon Lawrence** » 2014-Jun-Fri-09-Jun

by **Radair** » 2014-Jun-Fri-12-Jun

With just enough insertion into the Alum Exturder to get a good grip on it the E3Dv6 has has 5mm hang past the bottom rod mount. Should be plenty of room.

by **Radair** » 2014-Jun-Fri-12-Jun

Spoke to soon. Z Bottoms out before I hit the bed. 12.5mm short.

UPDATE:

Was able to shim the bed to level with the base. Successful calibration cube with E3Dv6 with the bed leveling sensor installed.

by **Jon Lawrence** » 2014-Jun-Fri-15-Jun

Update: I realized if I was to allow this version to be mounted on the Printrbot Makers YZ plate, I needed an rear end that would work as well. I edited the top post to include a rear end that will work on all versions, and also added some of the double precision parts.

You don't have to install this as a double precision. If you only want the normal operation, just leave out the reversing bearings and tension the belt as usual.

by **Baedarlboo** » 2014-Jun-Fri-16-Jun

My kit comes in today, but the aluminum extruder setup won't be here for a bit. So I reassembled my printer to start printing parts. I guess it would be good to have all needed parts printed and assemble the 1405 kit with the mods in one shot. Excited for what's to come Jon! :mrgreen:

by **greenb** » 2014-Jun-Fri-16-Jun

This mod will work with the ubis, correct?

by **orangefurball** » 2014-Jun-Fri-17-Jun

by **Bellus** » 2014-Jun-Fri-17-Jun

by **orangefurball** » 2014-Jun-Fri-18-Jun

Beautiful mod. Worked perfectly. Left the top rod a bit longer for accessories. The possibilities are endless. Took about a half hour to install!

by **greenb** » 2014-Jun-Fri-18-Jun

where did you get those stabilizers? My printer is very tipsy.

by **orangefurball** » 2014-Jun-Fri-19-Jun

by **Radair** » 2014-Jun-Fri-22-Jun

Here is where I finally ended up with my E3Dv6. Now it's time to rip the entire thing apart and install my RAMPS board!

image.jpg

by **Skrotus** » 2014-Jun-Sat-00-Jun

by **thawkins** » 2014-Jun-Sat-00-Jun

by **Skrotus** » 2014-Jun-Sun-21-Jun

Looks like I'm going to need some new rods to use the double precision mod and still get my full 6". That's okay though as the rods don't cost me much and I've virtually got enough parts to build a new simple now so the old ones won't go to waste...

by **Munson** » 2014-Jun-Mon-00-Jun

Jon, I just came across one of your builds on thingiverse.Does this fit on the 1405? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:344748/#comments

by **Jon Lawrence** » 2014-Jun-Mon-07-Jun

by **spitfirehauser** » 2014-Jun-Mon-11-Jun

I upgraded to the new front end this weekend and i really like it. still have to figure out a better way to route my wiring from my ubis hot end but in all its a much cleaner and better setup compared to the original. I put in the new probe but still have not wired it up or upgraded my firmware to make it work. first test had the printer working quite nicely with nice smooth motion. thanks Jon for the great designs.

by **Jon Lawrence** » 2014-Jun-Mon-11-Jun

by **Defy** » 2014-Jun-Mon-12-Jun

So john does the new 1405 use the same y rod spacing as the stock yz carriage? IE can i just print the new extruder mount and rear. Then ise the stock yz carriage?

by **Jon Lawrence** » 2014-Jun-Mon-12-Jun

by **Defy** » 2014-Jun-Mon-15-Jun

Thanks makes sense. I am not looking for more y distance just no sag so i though i could just get by without printing the YZ carriage.

Well call it the jyns (pronounced jens) upgrade for johns y no sag.

by **Jon Lawrence** » 2014-Jun-Mon-15-Jun

Just published and moved the files over to Thingiverse to keep all the designs together.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:372467

by **dmaxx67** » 2014-Jun-Mon-16-Jun

Jon when printing on your machines are you using a part cooling fan along with heated bed?
If so do you see any better quality or faster printing form using the part cooling fan and heated bed combo?

by **MrCamil** » 2014-Jun-Mon-23-Jun

Everything seems to be working great for me. Very happy with how well it reduced my Y sag.

by **Bellus** » 2014-Jun-Tue-00-Jun

by **Skrotus** » 2014-Jun-Tue-06-Jun

by **Jon Lawrence** » 2014-Jun-Tue-10-Jun

by **Baedarlboo** » 2014-Jun-Tue-17-Jun

Have all the parts printed out, just waiting on my aluminum extruder kit to come in. Also trying to figure out if I should cut my 400mm rods to fit my 12"x9" aluminum bed or make something to adapt the bed without cutting the rods. I'd hate to cut up my rods and regret it later.

by **Skrotus** » 2014-Jun-Tue-22-Jun

by **Jon Lawrence** » 2014-Jun-Wed-07-Jun

by **Ari_Porad** » 2014-Jun-Wed-09-Jun

Really Exited To Install This!

1 question though: How much longer do I need to make the rods than I actually want to be able to print?

Thanks,
Ari

by **Baedarlboo** » 2014-Jun-Wed-09-Jun

by **Jon Lawrence** » 2014-Jun-Wed-10-Jun

by **orangefurball** » 2014-Jun-Wed-20-Jun

Does anyone else have a lopsided extruder? I can print but it can't be good. What do I do?

by **Skrotus** » 2014-Jun-Wed-20-Jun

by **orangefurball** » 2014-Jun-Wed-20-Jun

by **Bellus** » 2014-Jun-Wed-21-Jun

Mine is starting to do the same thing, not as bad. My infill is 25%

by **evanalmighty** » 2014-Jun-Wed-21-Jun

For stuff like this, you guys ought to use infill of at least 40%.

by **orangefurball** » 2014-Jun-Wed-21-Jun

[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/26/yhuvery5.jpg[/img]

Yep, it started melting. I'm gonna do 45% infill now that I see how bad it is. I had to quit a large print as the hot end tilted more and more

by **Bellus** » 2014-Jun-Wed-21-Jun

I use a desk top fan on my motor most of the time, that may be why mine isn't as bad. I will probably print my next one in ABS then.

by **orangefurball** » 2014-Jun-Thu-04-Jun

For anyone having issues with the melting front piece while using a Ubis, here is a quick fix I designed. Just screw it into the rear fan duct and you will add extra support the weak point of the front and add support to the E motor.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:375288

by **KD6HQ** » 2014-Jun-Fri-08-Jun

I just printed out my first modification part, 1405read-2014-06-23. The part looks ok, but since this is a new printer I'm checking a lot of things. The hole for the shaft appears to be 7.5mm, is this correct or is my printer a little off?

thanks

by **Jon Lawrence** » 2014-Jun-Fri-10-Jun

by **KD6HQ** » 2014-Jun-Fri-10-Jun

That's what I thought, but new printer and all... thanks

by **Munson** » 2014-Jun-Fri-14-Jun

Jon Lawrence,what cad program do you use?Also how long does it take for you to design a mod?I am always mesmerized by your work.I also want to say thank you for sharing your work with us !!!

by **Jon Lawrence** » 2014-Jun-Sat-06-Jun

by **mummson** » 2014-Jun-Sat-13-Jun

by **Jon Lawrence** » 2014-Jun-Sun-05-Jun

by **mummson** » 2014-Jun-Sun-08-Jun

by **midnkight** » 2014-Jun-Sun-11-Jun

by **mummson** » 2014-Jun-Sun-12-Jun

by **jwiede** » 2014-Jun-Mon-22-Jun

by **Bellus** » 2014-Jun-Mon-22-Jun

by **Baedarlboo** » 2014-Jun-Mon-22-Jun

Simple 1405 upgrade kit along with Jon's no sag y axis mod, Jon's x axis bed mod with a 12"x9" aluminum bed. :mrgreen:

by **Jon Lawrence** » 2014-Jul-Tue-07-Jul

by **Baedarlboo** » 2014-Jul-Tue-07-Jul

In the 1405 instructions it states to flip the Y axis plug on the board, and the end stop has moved. If you're assembling the 1405 upgrade with Jon's Y axis mod, do you keep the Y motor plug and end stop in the original configuration, or do you flip the plug and move the end stop to the front? I'm assuming they did this because moving to the belt it reversed the operation of the Y motor and axis movement...

by **Jon Lawrence** » 2014-Jul-Tue-08-Jul

by **Gajol** » 2014-Jul-Tue-13-Jul

Hi

Will the front part of this fit on your "old" no sag mod ?
as i have the old 2014 model and not 1405 but i am using a auto bed probe so cant use the the "old" mod :/

by **Jon Lawrence** » 2014-Jul-Tue-13-Jul

by **Baedarlboo** » 2014-Jul-Tue-14-Jul

Thanks Jon, makes sense. The instructions for the 1405 got me confused.
On another note, anyone else having issues with the Y axis motor hitting the Z coupler? Looks like I have to raise my bed due to the interference, is this normal?

by **vcolombo** » 2014-Jul-Wed-10-Jul

Hi,

I'm going to order some new rods for this upgrade and was wondering if there's a maximum length that you would recommend?

Thank you,

Vince

by **Jon Lawrence** » 2014-Jul-Wed-13-Jul

by **vcolombo** » 2014-Jul-Wed-13-Jul

Thanks for the response, Jon!

Another question... I'm running into problems printing the extended Y plate. At the back of the print I'm hitting the Y stop and the back of the print is getting all mangled. Has anyone else run into this and, if so, have you managed to work around it somehow?

Thanks,

Vince

by **orangefurball** » 2014-Jul-Wed-15-Jul

by **Jon Lawrence** » 2014-Jul-Wed-15-Jul

by **vcolombo** » 2014-Jul-Wed-16-Jul

I'm using Simplify3D, have turned off skirt and brim, and have my build volume set to 185x100x165.

Just tried it again and ended up with a mess of spaghetti and killed the print.

July 02, 2014 at 0448PM.jpg

by **Some Printr Noob** » 2014-Jul-Wed-17-Jul

Looks like you have a bit of work to do.

Painter's Tape + Heated bed doesn't really work all that well. Try printing on the aluminum.

Check cooling and make sure your Ubis extrudes properly. My ubis requires a stupid amount of force to extrude, and is pretty much dead now.

by **vcolombo** » 2014-Jul-Wed-17-Jul

I actually don't have the heated bed hooked up right now. I'm able to print other things just fine, it's just when printing all the way at the back of the bed that things end up getting messed up. Just printed an iPhone dock and Jon's new calibration cube today without issue.

by **orangefurball** » 2014-Jul-Wed-18-Jul

Is your probe properly calibrated?

by **vcolombo** » 2014-Jul-Wed-18-Jul

by **evanalmighty** » 2014-Jul-Wed-19-Jul

Home all your axises and verify that it can travel the full 100mm in the Y direction.

by **orangefurball** » 2014-Jul-Wed-19-Jul

Do you have G29 in your GCode? If not it will only home, if its homing at the front of the bed and the back is lower than it won't work.

by **vcolombo** » 2014-Jul-Wed-19-Jul

Thanks for all the suggestions, but I think I found the issue. It seems the wire bundle was getting caught between they Y motor and the back of the Y carriage, so when the Y axis moved all the way forward for large prints that are nearly maxing out the print bed, it wasn't making it quite far enough and throwing everything off just slightly. I moved the wire bundle out of the way and I'm a couple layers into a print of the extended Y axis plate. I'm a bit concerned that the wire bundle is going to move as the Z axis goes up, but I'll have to keep an eye on things and move it out of the way again if it does. Once this print is finished I'll have to find a way to make sure that can't happen again.

Thanks again,

Vince

by **orangefurball** » 2014-Jul-Wed-21-Jul

by **mummson** » 2014-Jul-Thu-19-Jul

About the fans, do the extra fans get power from the psu or is it ok to daisy chain the fans to the PBboard?

by **orangefurball** » 2014-Jul-Thu-21-Jul

by **mummson** » 2014-Jul-Fri-10-Jul

by **Some Printr Noob** » 2014-Jul-Fri-14-Jul

I hooked my E3D hotend fan up straight to the power supply.

by **Jon Lawrence** » 2014-Jul-Fri-18-Jul

Me too, all fans directly off the ATX power supply except the part cooling which is controlled by the Printrboard.

by **orangefurball** » 2014-Jul-Fri-19-Jul

Does anyone know of a way to attach two fans to the part fan port? That was there can be two cooling fans

by **KD6HQ** » 2014-Jul-Fri-20-Jul

Instead of attaching 2 fans to the fan port, attach a relay board.
Then you can have several different devices attached to the fan port
so that they all start when the fan does. For instance you could
have some leds light up the printing area at the same time.
This one happens to have dual relays but there are single ones also.

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1405 Makers Simple 300mm Y Axis No Sag

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