Simple 2014 needs upgrade

Simple 2014 needs upgrade

Postby donde » 2014-May-Sun-13-May

I'm a newbie, so I may be wrong. I have followed the leveling info for the bed using the 4 spring loaded screws. I've done the Z axis adjustment so the hotend just clears the bed with 2 pieces of printer paper with some resistance. I'm getting average prints and sometimes even above.

Here is what I have found: The Extruder motor is not level. And there is no way to adjust it right now. I used 2 levels, one a circular bubble level and the other a regular level. I put them on top of the motor. The circular level shows 1 bubble off from center. The regular level shows not level either in the same direction. To correct this, I shimmed up the rear end (power jack end) of the Simple at least a 1/4" with wooden shims. This leveled out the Extruder motor. Then I went ahead and re-leveled the bed, which had to be done again. And now I got much better prints looking straighter and more square. Quality was better!

Maybe I haven't seen this discussed in the forum, I think Printrbot should address this. An easy fix would be to add two adjustable feet to the rear as I did with wooden shims. They would look like a miniature version of adjustable feet for furniture found in any hardware store. I'm sure these parts could be printed, but I haven't found exactly what I need in Thingiverse or Yeggi. And I'm still looking. Right now I do not have the knowledge or ability to model. So, could someone please address this? I don't want to carry wooden shims in my pocket to demonstrate the great little Simple!
Thanks...donde
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Simple 2014 needs upgrade

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Re: Simple 2014 needs upgrade

Postby RetireeJay » 2014-May-Sun-13-May

Actually, "leveling" means making the X-Y motion of the printhead parallel to the plane of the print bed. I've heard of a demonstration where another brand of printer was used to make a print completely upside down. That was a stunt, of course, but the point is that level with respect to gravity means absolutely nothing at all.

What you want is that when you move the printhead in Y, it maintains exactly the same clearance to the bed no matter where in Y it is. Similarly, when you move the bed in X, the clearance from the printhead to the bed should not change. That's what we mean by "level"
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
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Re: Simple 2014 needs upgrade

Postby Mach-Chris » 2014-May-Sun-13-May

RetireeJay wrote:Actually, "leveling" means making the X-Y motion of the printhead parallel to the plane of the print bed. I've heard of a demonstration where another brand of printer was used to make a print completely upside down. That was a stunt, of course, but the point is that level with respect to gravity means absolutely nothing at all.

What you want is that when you move the printhead in Y, it maintains exactly the same clearance to the bed no matter where in Y it is. Similarly, when you move the bed in X, the clearance from the printhead to the bed should not change. That's what we mean by "level"


RJ is right, infact the term "bed leveling" is misleading, would be better to call it "checking and adjusting parallelism" doesn't exactly roll off the tongue though does it? Maybe "Tramming" lol

There is still something to be said, however for having the printer on a stable and relatively level surface though. But i think that would be the least of your problems right now as you first need to make sure all axis' are square and parallel
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Re: Simple 2014 needs upgrade

Postby donde » 2014-May-Sun-15-May

Let take the discussion to the extreme. What if the the motor was tilted 30 degrees in the y axis. This means the hotend is also tilted 30 degrees in the y axis. This condition would surely throw everything off, even if the bed were perfectly level in all axis
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Re: Simple 2014 needs upgrade

Postby RetireeJay » 2014-May-Sun-19-May

With extreme angles, the quality of the extrusion would suffer because the extruder would not be perpendicular to the layers that it's putting down. But small misalignments apparently are no problem. That is what they are doing when they use the auto-leveling probe: shifting the XY plane (and the Z axis) to match up with the bed, but without also shifting the orientation of the extruder.
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
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Re: Simple 2014 needs upgrade

Postby donde » 2014-May-Sun-20-May

when they use the auto-leveling probe


I understand you to say the Auto-leveling Probe would be more accurate and consistent than manual leveling.
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Re: Simple 2014 needs upgrade

Postby RetireeJay » 2014-May-Sun-21-May

No, my point was simply that the extruder barrel does not have to be perfectly perpendicular to the X-Y plane. When auto-leveling is used, they ignore the fact that the extruder barrel will not be adjusted for perpendicularity.

Many people are delighted with their auto-leveling probes, but many others are finding them to be a little tricky. I don't have one and don't plan to get one. My bed just about never needs to be adjusted for levelness. I do have to adjust the Z clearance from time to time, but I've made that chore extremely easy by modifying how it's done.
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Printrbot Plus operational January 2013
Brass threaded rods (5/16" X 18) & nuts for Z axis
GT2 belts & pulleys
Cable chain to reduce probability of fatigue failure in wires
E3D V5 Hot End, 0.4mm nozzle, also 0.8 and 0.25 in use occasionally
PB fan mount + 40mm fan -- using printed mount adapter, not the E3D supplied fan
Injection molded extruder gears
Optical Z "endstop" (custom designed and built)
Have used many pounds of T-Glase filament. Now also doing some work with Ninjaflex SemiFlex
Print on glass with Scotch Craft Stick or other glue stick
User avatar
RetireeJay
My next printer is...
 
Posts: 4778
Joined: 2013-Jan-Wed-13-Jan
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