Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Jon Lawrence » 2014-Mar-Mon-19-Mar

jwiede wrote:I was considering doing your original X-axis mod instead (where you replace the bed carriage entirely with two printed end-pieces -- thing:257841). Was there a specific reason why you chose to instead switch to reusing the bed carriage versus replacing it with the printed end pieces? Anything I should be aware of w.r.t. the printed end pieces approach to X-axis belt mod? Thanks!

I think you have the timeline a little off. The printed end version http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:257841 is the latest evolution.

The original GT2 X version http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:194686 has a couple benefits. It uses the stock parts, so no new rods needed. It prints on a smaller footprint, so if you are having trouble getting accurate prints it is easier to print than the http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:257841. I would recommend this one to give you the ability to print larger items accurately. Once you are able to print 100mm x 100mm accurately then I would recommend moving on to http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:257841. They both use the same motor plate so the transition is simple.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby jwiede » 2014-Mar-Mon-20-Mar

Jon Lawrence wrote:I think you have the timeline a little off. The printed end version http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:257841 is the latest evolution.


You're absolutely right, I wasn't actually looking at the thing #'s or I would have noticed that, mea culpa.

And yes, I see your point about printability of the different options -- for someone with a string-based simple, and no access to other printers, moving directly to 257841 isn't necessarily an option. I do have access to printers (at work) beyond just my own, however, so moving to 257841 (or a remix/equivalent) is looking like a nice solution to the "rubbing bed carriage" problem I'm having. Using the same motor plate is a nice bonus (as I already have that from the original mod's parts).

Either way, will post photos once I have my Frankensimple'14 back up and operational with both Y- and X-axis GT2 belts, etc. Thanks!
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Some Printr Noob » 2014-Mar-Mon-21-Mar

Jon Lawrence wrote:
Some Printr Noob wrote:- Belt End still colliding with the fan area.

Try this one. I have moved the end support back 15mm. Hopefully this is enough to clear the fan.
XBeltEndGT2RevC.STL


Thanks. I'll try printing this out today or tomorrow, if I can get my Printrbot up and running. I'm having problems with the belt tensioner ends, as the belt just doesn't want to stay. I've tried heatshrink, zipties, and other solutions. Going to try taking out a hair dryer and melting it a little bit to get the belt through.

//Update:
Hair dryer works like a charm. Belts are nice and snug now.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby EddB » 2014-Mar-Tue-00-Mar

This item looks like it would be really secure. I've had my own problems with the belts slipping. Might try a couple of these on the open end right after the tensioners, if it slips again. I'de use the as end clamps along with jons tensioners.

http://www.thingiverse.com/make:38668
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Some Printr Noob » 2014-Mar-Tue-01-Mar

The larger piece works like a charm. Thanks, Jon!

Image

Image
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby dmaxx67 » 2014-Mar-Tue-18-Mar

Alright took Jon advice and built first rendition of x axis belt mod. Only thing left is bearing caps for x mod. Gonna start on y tom night. Also had my printer hang on a few prints and caught one before it did I believe and heard my y motor crunching. Turned motor voltage down slowly and crunching went away. Did the same for my x motor even though it wasn't crunching. Its pot was sitting at the same position as my y axis.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Jon Lawrence » 2014-Mar-Tue-19-Mar

EddB wrote:This item looks like it would be really secure. I've had my own problems with the belts slipping. Might try a couple of these on the open end right after the tensioners, if it slips again. I'de use the as end clamps along with jons tensioners.

http://www.thingiverse.com/make:38668

I have had my own frustrations with the end blocks. Really don't like having to cut my belt with every change. Threw together this little wedge trying to keep things simple. Seems to work well. If you want to try, I have attached the file.

BeltWedge1.JPG

BeltWedge2.JPG

GT2BeltWedge.STL
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby EddB » 2014-Mar-Tue-22-Mar

Thank you for the wedges! I have loved every part of your design, but this just makes it even more solid!
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby evanalmighty » 2014-Mar-Wed-16-Mar

Gotta give it to you Jon. Great designs.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Some Printr Noob » 2014-Mar-Wed-18-Mar

Just did a 9 hour print. Everything works so nicely that I really don't want to touch anything else anymore. But of course, I will continue looking for improvement if given time. I'm pretty sure the fishing line drives wouldn't have been able to do this all that well.

Current Printer setup:
http://i.imgur.com/fF6egkv.jpg

Print:
http://i.imgur.com/QOPHMuQ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/tiNSZHv.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/8xldgAh.jpg

Source:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10485
Scaled it so I could use as much of the Printrbot Simple's stock printing space.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby jwiede » 2014-Mar-Thu-22-Mar

I had a question about the structural aspect of the "bed carriage" which I was hoping someone might be able to answer: As it's connected to the bed itself in a rather stable manner, as long as the bed carriage is reasonable stable transferring X motion to bed, that's all that matters right?

I mentioned before my bed carriage was rubbing against the X-axis motor drive shaft once I rotated it 180deg as mod expects. I've used a Dremel to cut away about 1/4" of the wooden "bar" of the bed carriage closest to the X-axis motor in order to stop it from rubbing against the shaft. While I tried to minimize the cut-away, it about halved the width of that top "bar", and I'm just making sure that's not a problem.

I seem to actually recall seeing someone else's mod where they just removed that bar almost entirely (except at the ends where the bed and printed belt mounts attach), and they seemed to work. Overall, I'm not too worried, but figured I'd ask just to see if anyone encountered any problems after modifying the bed carriage in any significant manner? It doesn't seem to be much structural support (the bed has plenty of that by itself, it seems), but is what little it does offer important beyond simply translating X-axis motion to the bed?

Thanks!!
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby EddB » 2014-Mar-Fri-00-Mar

jwiede wrote:

I seem to actually recall seeing someone else's mod where they just removed that bar almost entirely (except at the ends where the bed and printed belt mounts attach), and they seemed to work. Overall, I'm not too worried, but figured I'd ask just to see if anyone encountered any problems after modifying the bed carriage in any significant manner? It doesn't seem to be much structural support (the bed has plenty of that by itself, it seems), but is what little it does offer important beyond simply translating X-axis motion to the bed?

Thanks!!


Anyhow, your dilemma, as I see it, you need to have a quarter inch or so removed from the motor's shaft in order to clear the bed. Altering the shaft could damage the motor and would be the last option I would consider. Why not move the motor back the distance you need? It will move the shaft as well. It would be simple to make a spacer that would fit between the motor and the mods motor mount. Require longer mounting screws. A couple minutes on tinkercad.com (I would have done it right now, but they are down for maintenance and I don't have a computer with design software right now!)
edit: went and looked, someone already has exactly what I am talking about. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4379
load it in tinkercad and stretch it for whatever thickness you need. might need to edit it for the x axis motor, but this gives you an idea.
NEMA_17_spacer_2_preview_featured.jpg
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby jwiede » 2014-Mar-Fri-02-Mar

Hmm, I've already modified the bed carriage so I'm not really that concerned about the carriage impinging on the motor drive shaft anymore.

When others said doing the X-axis mod was involved, I didn't quite grasp just how involved they meant. Because the bottom two motor screws are actually "trapped" in the wood that's the bottom piece for the entire base assembly, I'm quickly realizing that to free the motor plate for replacement involves basically disassembling the entire base on the printer (I'll disconnect the Y-arm, take it off, and set it aside to avoid problems there). Still, I don't see how I can get at all four motor screws without removing the bottom piece of wood, and doing that appears to require removing both side pieces as well.

Kinda makes me wish I'd bought the kit, and just done the belt mods as I put the thing together in the first place. I wonder how soon they'll have the metal Simple for sale? I'm almost tempted to buy a second printer to use while modding the Simple. Not quite to that level yet, but I know once complete I don't plan to do any further mods of this scale again -- if I need more than the Simple+XL can provide, I'll definitely buy a second printer.

Anyway, one more Saturday of solid effort ought to be enough to finish the disassembly/reassembly, I'm guessing. It'll be nice to have a working printer again.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby EddB » 2014-Mar-Fri-11-Mar

That's true, I forgot aboit the bottom base plate entirely. Do both your z, e and x motors have the same length of shaft? Yours is the only one I have seen with this issue. I am wondering if you got a different motor (longer shaft needed for the new printer designs?) or maybe you got a base plate or bed mount from a beta simple?
If we could figure out if it's the motor, that would be a lot cheaper/easier to replace than purchasing new wood.
If you can, when putting it together, post some pics and see if anyone can figure out what is different about yours.
I know what a pain it is to have to remove the x motor mounting plate several times! Mine kept loosing the belt off the right bearing. Tracked it down to the right bearing sitting at an angle and have taken kt apart 3 times before I printed a new motor mount and just replaced it.! Better to get everything working smoothly the first time around.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Jon Lawrence » 2014-Mar-Fri-12-Mar

jwiede wrote:I had a question about the structural aspect of the "bed carriage" which I was hoping someone might be able to answer: As it's connected to the bed itself in a rather stable manner, as long as the bed carriage is reasonable stable transferring X motion to bed, that's all that matters right?

I mentioned before my bed carriage was rubbing against the X-axis motor drive shaft once I rotated it 180deg as mod expects. I've used a Dremel to cut away about 1/4" of the wooden "bar" of the bed carriage closest to the X-axis motor in order to stop it from rubbing against the shaft. While I tried to minimize the cut-away, it about halved the width of that top "bar", and I'm just making sure that's not a problem.

I seem to actually recall seeing someone else's mod where they just removed that bar almost entirely (except at the ends where the bed and printed belt mounts attach), and they seemed to work. Overall, I'm not too worried, but figured I'd ask just to see if anyone encountered any problems after modifying the bed carriage in any significant manner? It doesn't seem to be much structural support (the bed has plenty of that by itself, it seems), but is what little it does offer important beyond simply translating X-axis motion to the bed?

Thanks!!

I see no problem whatsoever with removing the small amount of wood that you have. Even taking that piece out altogether should experience no adverse affects. For example, my Extended X mod. has absolutely no structure between the end supports. This structure keeps the plate from twisting, but there is plenty of strength left without your offending section.

You should be good to go!

...Yes, to change the X plate takes a complete dis-assembly of the frame. No way around it if you want to use this mod. On the up side, I can now disassemble and re-assemble the entire machine in under 30 minutes...
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Some Printr Noob » 2014-Mar-Sun-05-Mar

So I've finally printed out the parts for your new X mod, and plan to move the current Z rods to the X.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:257841

I've also picked up a 6c6 heated bed and thermistor. I was wondering how you wired up your thermistor.

Also, can you print right on top of the heated bed, or do you need a sheet of aluminum or glass? I don't want to go through the hassle of finding a 6x6 piece of glass as I don't know any companies near me that cut glass.

I also printed the 300mm no sag Y parts. I'm currently waiting on some new rods, a power supply, heated bed & thermistor, and some longer belt.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby thawkins » 2014-Mar-Sun-10-Mar

EddB wrote:In case you want to keep your belts long for future upgrades, I found a little trick to use on the tension block. Just double over the belt and then slide a piece of tight fitting shrink tubing over it. With belt in as close as possible to the locked in position and no tension on the tension block, shrink the tubing (not too much heat as you might damage the belt!)
Been running it for about a week and the belt is still taught! I still have a lot of belt for a future upgrade.
1393367433505.jpg


I just folded it over and put a zip tie around it, much simpler.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby thawkins » 2014-Mar-Sun-10-Mar

Some Printr Noob wrote:So I've finally printed out the parts for your new X mod, and plan to move the current Z rods to the X.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:257841

I've also picked up a 6c6 heated bed and thermistor. I was wondering how you wired up your thermistor.

Also, can you print right on top of the heated bed, or do you need a sheet of aluminum or glass? I don't want to go through the hassle of finding a 6x6 piece of glass as I don't know any companies near me that cut glass.

I also printed the 300mm no sag Y parts. I'm currently waiting on some new rods, a power supply, heated bed & thermistor, and some longer belt.


I would advise using glass, you can usualy find a cheap picture frame with glass in that size, or better still a mirror, the silvering helps to distribute the heat from the heatbed.

The average mirror tile is about the right size and is cheap.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Jon Lawrence » 2014-Mar-Mon-08-Mar

Some Printr Noob wrote:I've also picked up a 6c6 heated bed and thermistor. I was wondering how you wired up your thermistor.

I used a connector identical to the one used for the hot end thermister and plugged it in to the T-Bed input. Part numbers for the connector can be found in the documentation for http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:237133 item 10. Then covered the thermister wires with some PTFE tubing (McMaster 5335K12).

Some Printr Noob wrote:Also, can you print right on top of the heated bed, or do you need a sheet of aluminum or glass? I don't want to go through the hassle of finding a 6x6 piece of glass as I don't know any companies near me that cut glass.

I was going to suggest the picture frame idea as well.
I went down to my local hardware store. You may be surprised how many hardware stores cut window glass. They cut me a piece out of some scrap so I picked it up for some kind conversation, but it would only be a couple dollars if you catch them on a bad day.

My stack-up goes something like this:
Wood print bed, Cardboard with groove cut in top for thermister (I didn't want to cut my wood), masking tape to hold thermister in groove, heat bed, glass, and binder clips to hold it all together.

I love my heated bed, it was just about the single best upgrade other than the timing belt drive.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby pantseatflyer » 2014-Mar-Mon-10-Mar

Does the bed seem to help with curling? My Simple XL aluminum bed sucks big time with curling because it's so stinking cold.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Jon Lawrence » 2014-Mar-Mon-11-Mar

pantseatflyer wrote:Does the bed seem to help with curling? My Simple XL aluminum bed sucks big time with curling because it's so stinking cold.

ABSOLUTELY, this is the major reason to go to a heated bed. The prints are all nice and flat, no edge curling whatsoever with the heated bed.
You could always break out a hair dryer and heat up the aluminum bed prior to printing.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby pantseatflyer » 2014-Mar-Mon-12-Mar

Been there done that! For small prints it works great. For big stuff, it curls without fail. The room that's printer resides in is not all that well insulated. The ambient temp is about 65. That bed gets very cold to touch. It will hear up quick with the hair dryer but cools off quick as well.

Gonna run to harbor freight today to pick up a machinists dial and print out the part to help level the bed. This and a heated bed would be ideal.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby jwiede » 2014-Mar-Mon-15-Mar

Speaking of heated beds, I picked up the 4.5x6 heated bed kit from MakerFarm (IIRC) as well as a thermistor, and while I'm putting the printer back together have debated doing that mod as well. What I'm not sure about is that the bed heater is significantly smaller (in X) than the alum. XL bed, is that okay? Or should it nearly match the bed's X dimension except for leveling screw hole clearance? If it's okay as is, then as I understand it, the "bed sandwich" should be: insulator, spacer and/or thermistor, alum bed -- is that correct?

I too get significant curl at the edges (f.e. of the X-axis motor plate, need to actually print another in fact) due to my alum. bed as well, so even a bit of moderate heating at the center seems like it'll help with most prints. What temperatures do folks set their beds at when working with PLA?
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Jon Lawrence » 2014-Mar-Mon-15-Mar

My position would be, anything is better than nothing. If your heat distribution is not exactly even, it is still better than none at all. Aluminum is an excellent heat conductor, so it will even out the heat pretty well. Here is a picture of my sandwich.
Bed / cardboard / thermister (not shown) / heat plate / glass.

What is the worst case? You simply don't turn it on...

XUpgrade(6).JPG
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby pantseatflyer » 2014-Mar-Mon-16-Mar

Jon Lawrence wrote:My position would be, anything is better than nothing. If your heat distribution is not exactly even, it is still better than none at all. Aluminum is an excellent heat conductor, so it will even out the heat pretty well.


That makes perfect sense. The heated bed will transfer quite nicely through the aluminum. I went ahead and ordered a 4.5 x 6 heated bed from MakerFarm as well along with a thermistor.

Plans are to replace the laptop power supply with my 400 watt PS to handle the needed power for the bed. That way I can control the temp through the board.

In the meantime, I'll have to endure the third degree from my wife as to the whereabouts of her hair dryer...
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby jwiede » 2014-Mar-Tue-14-Mar

Just wondering, for those of you with heated beds (esp. Jon), what temp do you set it at for PLA work?
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Jon Lawrence » 2014-Mar-Tue-15-Mar

jwiede wrote:Just wondering, for those of you with heated beds (esp. Jon), what temp do you set it at for PLA work?

I am not the best source on process questions. Hardware design, I'm your man, but when it comes to process once I stumble on something that works for me I stop looking. Not really the best methodology to help others.

To answer your question, I set it at 50c. I have not confirmed that is the actual temp, or even if my thermister is correct, so do not take that number to the bank.

I am sure there is somebody else out there that can give you a more authoritative answer.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby evanalmighty » 2014-Mar-Tue-16-Mar

I would also guess 50-60C territory. I don't even think you need to have it on the entire time. Once you've built up enough mass I think you can trickle it down.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby thawkins » 2014-Mar-Tue-17-Mar

jwiede wrote:
Jon Lawrence wrote:
jwiede wrote:Jon, is it "normal" for the back edge of the bed carriage closest to the motor (carriage is the one that gets rotated 180deg so the "open tabs" are at the front of the printer post-mod) to rub against the drive shaft of the motor, at least in a 2014 Simple? If so, what's the recommended fix?

Would love to be able to help you here, but I am not the best authority on the 2014 version. It looks like your motor shaft is longer than the ones on earlier versions. The only way I can see to fix is to trim out the wood, or install some washers to move the motor back. The washers may cause clearance problems on the other end of the motor though so keep an eye out.


I was considering doing your original X-axis mod instead (where you replace the bed carriage entirely with two printed end-pieces -- thing:257841). Was there a specific reason why you chose to instead switch to reusing the bed carriage versus replacing it with the printed end pieces? Anything I should be aware of w.r.t. the printed end pieces approach to X-axis belt mod? Thanks!


That version is the new one, not the original, the original is the one that uses two "rabbits ears" attached to the simple bed plate, the all printed one is the later version.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby stupendousman » 2014-Mar-Tue-19-Mar

After reading all these threads and seeing these upgrades, I want to vote for Jon Lawerence for Printrbot President. MUCH appreciated.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby thawkins » 2014-Mar-Tue-20-Mar

evanalmighty wrote:I would also guess 50-60C territory. I don't even think you need to have it on the entire time. Once you've built up enough mass I think you can trickle it down.


I was using 70c on mine, with a sugar solution film on glass, works very well on pla, the sugar solution (2 teaspoons of cane sugar disloved in 1/4 cup of warm water and allowed to cool). I just wiped on with a cotton ball. I creates a very fine, thin, sticky layer that holds PLA really well once dry. If the part sticks too well a little warm water will dislodge it.

I have been printing ABS for the last month on my simple, its very nice and much stronger than PLA.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby evanalmighty » 2014-Mar-Tue-22-Mar

I'll wire up my heated bed right after I do the 300M Y extension mod. I think you might have convinced me to give ABS another try.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby jwiede » 2014-Mar-Wed-17-Mar

evanalmighty wrote:I'll wire up my heated bed right after I do the 300M Y extension mod.

300M? I'd be worried about the power consumption of the heated bed, few computer stores carry megawatt power supplies. ;)
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby evanalmighty » 2014-Mar-Wed-17-Mar

I run the heated bed off of an old 110v variac.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby jwiede » 2014-Mar-Wed-17-Mar

Ah well, it wasn't much of a joke anyway.

Back to GT2 mods, everyone seems to have their own favorite "belt tensioner" thing. I'm leaning towards the traditional tension block (from Jon's mods) along with a wedge (from this thread). Who all else is using such a configuration, and what (if any) positives and negatives have you found that might be interesting?

Thanks!
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Dabhaidh » 2014-Mar-Thu-22-Mar

In your Printrbot Simple X upgrade thing:257841there is a green part on your simple. It seems to be a fan housing. Would you let us know where to get a stl file for this.

Thank you
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Some Printr Noob » 2014-Mar-Fri-01-Mar

Semi-cross post from Jon's other X & Y thread. This is about both the Y and X Upgrade

Started installing these mods. I kind of wish I waited to use my black PLA to print the parts, but the amber/orange doesn't look that bad.

Image

Image

So far everything on the Y axis has fit nicely. I had to print the Y/Z block twice, since Slic3r messed up on two of the bearing slots. I'm probably going to be using Cura to slice from now on. The zipties I have are a lot softer than the one that came with the Printrbot. This results in some slight play if some force is pushed on the rod, but overall it's a lot more rigid. I guess this will help when I accidentally run the Ubis into the bed.

Still using the stock acme rod. I haven't found a good place to find a two foot long rod. I did find a 3 foot long one on mcmaster, though. Unfortunately one of my Y rods isn't made all that well, and has a lot of resistance with the bearings. It's a tad too big and uneven. Gonna try and get it replaced.

I would like to do the cable management as well, but I have a spool holder in that area. I was wondering if you could possibly put the cable management and spool holder together somehow? That would be the best of both worlds.
Spool holder:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:118559

The X was relatively smooth so far as well. I did have some problems where I collided with the motor shaft before the bearings:
Right side:
Image
4mm lost

Left side:
Image
3.33mm lost

Probably varies from motor to motor. I'll probably just have at the printed parts with my dremmel again.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby thawkins » 2014-Mar-Fri-08-Mar

Some Printr Noob wrote:Probably varies from motor to motor. I'll probably just have at the printed parts with my dremmel again.


Before you put it all together again

If you remove the motor again, and put some washers on the back of the motor mounting, it will shift the whole motor backwards. It looks like you have plenty of shaft left to move the pulley out.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby dmaxx67 » 2014-Mar-Fri-08-Mar

Jon is there a way to make your x axis carriage rod mounts go though the entire piece instead of with the endstop. Thinking maybe this way if someone wants to keep rods a little longer but used stock bed or just play with bed sizes they would not have to re-cut different rods but just cut tie straps and move pieces further out and re-tension belts.
Just a thought the design is awesome as is just been thinking about that and wanted to throw it at you.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Some Printr Noob » 2014-Mar-Fri-10-Mar

thawkins wrote:
Some Printr Noob wrote:Probably varies from motor to motor. I'll probably just have at the printed parts with my dremmel again.


Before you put it all together again

If you remove the motor again, and put some washers on the back of the motor mounting, it will shift the whole motor backwards. It looks like you have plenty of shaft left to move the pulley out.


I have indeed thought of that. The X motor mount isn't the greatest match with the motor, as the circle on the motor is a tad bit big. I think it would probably be worth the effort of spacing the motor, though.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby dmaxx67 » 2014-Mar-Fri-11-Mar

some printer noob where did you get the z axis coupling
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Jon Lawrence » 2014-Mar-Fri-11-Mar

dmaxx67 wrote:Jon is there a way to make your x axis carriage rod mounts go though the entire piece instead of with the endstop. Thinking maybe this way if someone wants to keep rods a little longer but used stock bed or just play with bed sizes they would not have to re-cut different rods but just cut tie straps and move pieces further out and re-tension belts.
Just a thought the design is awesome as is just been thinking about that and wanted to throw it at you.

EddB did this not too long ago and you can find the files here:
viewtopic.php?f=21&t=6471&p=41948#p41948

Then end caps are there to keep the parts from sliding on the shaft when the belt is under tension.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Jon Lawrence » 2014-Mar-Fri-11-Mar

Some Printr Noob wrote:
thawkins wrote:
Some Printr Noob wrote:Probably varies from motor to motor. I'll probably just have at the printed parts with my dremmel again.


Before you put it all together again

If you remove the motor again, and put some washers on the back of the motor mounting, it will shift the whole motor backwards. It looks like you have plenty of shaft left to move the pulley out.


I have indeed thought of that. The X motor mount isn't the greatest match with the motor, as the circle on the motor is a tad bit big. I think it would probably be worth the effort of spacing the motor, though.

If I remember correctly, the motor sits in a cutout in the bottom wood plate. If you move the motor back, then I believe you will have a conflict in this cutout. Just something to look for.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby jwiede » 2014-Mar-Fri-14-Mar

Jon Lawrence wrote:If I remember correctly, the motor sits in a cutout in the bottom wood plate. If you move the motor back, then I believe you will have a conflict in this cutout. Just something to look for.

Yep, also a bunch of excess wiring normally gets stuffed between the X motor and the Z motor in there, so moving the X motor back will also potentially cause issues in that regard. I looked at it briefly when doing the X GT2 mod & XL upgrade to bed at same time, and between clearances, wood cuts, and all, moving the motor back just didn't seem worthwhile -- I instead cut some wood from my bed carriage piece to grant clearance for the longer motor shaft.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Some Printr Noob » 2014-Mar-Fri-15-Mar

dmaxx67 wrote:some printer noob where did you get the z axis coupling


Found it on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181318977881?redirect=mobile
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby dmaxx67 » 2014-Mar-Fri-18-Mar

Appreciate the quick reply. Ordered.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby pvyParts » 2014-Mar-Mon-08-Mar

Printed the Y Belt mod and was working great! till i noticed a skip half way through a build xD

apparently my y motor was cooking! it warped the motor face plate. (fixed that with the current POT on the board)
Only reason i noticed was the bearings were on an angle.

DSC04540.JPG

DSC04539.JPG


something to keep an eye on for the new people like me.

I am going to print the X axis and the no sag Y as soon as i get some more filament ( accidentally ordered ABS and have no heatbed so goes to poo )

anyhow great work!
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Some Printr Noob » 2014-Mar-Mon-11-Mar

Fiddle with the pot settings on the printrboard. Counter clockwise is less current, clockwise is more current. Less current = less heat. However, you need enough current so the motor doesnt skip.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby pvyParts » 2014-Mar-Mon-18-Mar

I did yeah, it only needed about 10 degrees to start skipping so very fine adjustments are needed i sorta ham fisted it the first time I set it.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby dmaxx67 » 2014-Apr-Tue-10-Apr

Printer is singing with the orginbal gt2 mods right now. And i can print so much faster and still have the accuracy :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby dmaxx67 » 2014-Apr-Tue-10-Apr

Shoudl i print the rev b version of the x axis upgrade if i dont have a 2014 simple?
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Jon Lawrence » 2014-Apr-Tue-11-Apr

dmaxx67 wrote:Shoudl i print the rev b version of the x axis upgrade if i dont have a 2014 simple?

I see no reason to. If you have nothing there to conflict, why stretch it longer than necessary.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby sarahspins » 2014-Apr-Tue-11-Apr

Jon Lawrence wrote:
dmaxx67 wrote:Shoudl i print the rev b version of the x axis upgrade if i dont have a 2014 simple?

I see no reason to. If you have nothing there to conflict, why stretch it longer than necessary.


Agreed, and since I am not using a tension block on that side on my 2014 (I do have one on the other side), I've actually considering printing the "regular" part and just trimming/sanding off the top of the belt attachment that would hit the fan... the extra little bit of height seems like it's only necessary for the tension block screws and I'd rather not have an extra 1.5" or so sticking out from my bed on that side if I don't really need it.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby ccbdav » 2014-Apr-Tue-20-Apr

I ordered two GT2 kits from Printrbot and some 608 ZZ bearings on amazon---does it matter if they are unshielded, single-shielded (Z), or double-shielded (ZZ)?

Thanks in advance for any replies.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Some Printr Noob » 2014-Apr-Tue-21-Apr

Currently using these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/608ZZ-Bearing-8 ... 1e88f2ddc6

They were cheap and the first thing that popped up. The only problem I've been having with the mod is that the belt doesn't always line up with the pulley or bearing. I think my X motor block is slightly warped from me forcing the motor into the slot, causing the bearing posts to point outwards and slant the bearings. For the 300mm Y mod, it seems a lot better as there is only one bearing. I plan to use a spacer on the bearing, though, as the belt doesn't want to fully align as well.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby thawkins » 2014-Apr-Tue-21-Apr

Some Printr Noob wrote:Currently using these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/608ZZ-Bearing-8 ... 1e88f2ddc6

They were cheap and the first thing that popped up. The only problem I've been having with the mod is that the belt doesn't always line up with the pulley or bearing. I think my X motor block is slightly warped from me forcing the motor into the slot, causing the bearing posts to point outwards and slant the bearings. For the 300mm Y mod, it seems a lot better as there is only one bearing. I plan to use a spacer on the bearing, though, as the belt doesn't want to fully align as well.


I found that on the x mod, that if the arms are as much as 0.5mm too short because of printer calibration issues, the belts will walk off the bearings, due to an increased angle to the pulley. You have to make absolutly sure yoir machine is accuratly printing stuff to the correct size to do this mod.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Jon Lawrence » 2014-Apr-Wed-12-Apr

ccbdav wrote:I ordered two GT2 kits from Printrbot and some 608 ZZ bearings on amazon---does it matter if they are unshielded, single-shielded (Z), or double-shielded (ZZ)?

Thanks in advance for any replies.

For our applications it doesn't matter if they have shields or seals.

A little bearing nomenclature just because:
- The single-shielded (-Z) refers to a shield only on one side, and the other side would be open (you could see the balls). This is not a good choice, but rather difficult to find so I don't believe it will be a problem. Some suppliers simply leave off the second Z, but really have shields on both sides. Technically speaking this is inaccurate, but check with your supplier to be sure. Most likely they have shields on both sides, unless they have a premium price attached.
- The double-shielded (-ZZ or -2Z) has shields on both sides.
- The double sealed (-2RS) has seals on both sides.
- No shields or seals would be considered an open bearing.

The difference between shields and seals is how well they keep out contaminants. The shields move with less resistance, but don't seal as well as the sealed versions. The seals therefore have more resistance and keep out more "junk". For us, the printers are in a pretty clean environment (compared to roller skates rolling thru puddles etc) so whatever you have will work well. Open bearings are not a good choice, but once again are more difficult to find so most likely not a problem.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby ccbdav » 2014-Apr-Wed-14-Apr

Thanks for the replies and the amazing work designing and documenting these mods. Can't wait to get my parts to get started on the upgrades!
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby dmaxx67 » 2014-Apr-Thu-06-Apr

What speeds are ya running after gt2 mod on both x and y.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby spitfirehauser » 2014-Apr-Thu-13-Apr

WOW i started Jon Lawerences X axis upgrade http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:257841 last night and was amazed at how quickly and how painful the X axis stepper motor plate replacement went down hill. i almost have it back together but i would rather have a sharp stick in the eye instead of doing that again. in hind site i should have removed most of the cables from the printr board and remove he Y-Z carriage to make things more manageable. I read in both this forum and the thingiverse posts how hard the upgrade could be but just assumed it would be easy since it was not a huge challenge to build it in the first place. to get to the part you basically have to take it apart and then re-install everything. don't cheat like i tried to do and try to leave everything in place and expect to be easy. Just and FYI
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Jon Lawrence » 2014-Apr-Thu-14-Apr

spitfirehauser wrote:WOW i started Jon Lawerences X axis upgrade http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:257841 last night and was amazed at how quickly and how painful the X axis stepper motor plate replacement went down hill. i almost have it back together but i would rather have a sharp stick in the eye instead of doing that again. in hind site i should have removed most of the cables from the printr board and remove he Y-Z carriage to make things more manageable. I read in both this forum and the thingiverse posts how hard the upgrade could be but just assumed it would be easy since it was not a huge challenge to build it in the first place. to get to the part you basically have to take it apart and then re-install everything. don't cheat like i tried to do and try to leave everything in place and expect to be easy. Just and FYI

Yeah, it is a bit deceiving on how difficult it is to access that plate. I have changed mine 2 to 3 times now, but never had the foresight to actually disconnect the wires. Every time I have the machine upside down and backwards with cables and Y axis hanging off the table. Guess I am simply too lazy to pull them off, and pay for it every time.

As long as you go into the build with the expectation that you have to COMPLETELY remove all sides, it isn't too bad. I can tear mine down and put it back together in under 30 minutes. Then again I have had a little practice...

I will update the instructions to highlight the extent of the rebuild.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby jwiede » 2014-Apr-Thu-14-Apr

spitfirehauser wrote:WOW i started Jon Lawerences X axis upgrade http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:257841 last night and was amazed at how quickly and how painful the X axis stepper motor plate replacement went down hill. i almost have it back together but i would rather have a sharp stick in the eye instead of doing that again. in hind site i should have removed most of the cables from the printr board and remove he Y-Z carriage to make things more manageable.


Oh yeah, definitely better to take off the Y-arm assembly. I wound up unplugging most of the Y-related cabling from the printrboard to free the Y-arm for removal, but other than that, didn't have to unplug much else. It is quite impressive how thorough and complete a PITA it is to get enough access to the X motor and plate to replace the plate, though, 100% agree there.

For anyone reading this while considering doing a mod that requires replacing the X-axis motor plate:

  1. You will have to basically disassemble the entire lower body of your Simple to replace the X-axis motor plate. It is a long, finicky task, and you need to be careful not to break anything.

  2. Save yourself trouble, if your printed version of the motor plate shows any significant curl or distortion, reprint it (or order parts from Shapeways, Jon posted the link earlier in the thread). Likewise, if your printer isn't calibrated before printing the motor plate, DO SO! The motor plate needs to be almost perfectly flat to both screw onto the motor, and fit into the wooden body of the printer, it's tolerances are tight. Also, if your new plate isn't quite seating properly on the motor, try scraping/grinding off some material from the part which rests against the motor's "circle" -- that's a common problem area.

  3. You'll also want spare M3 (metric) cap screws on hand, as you're likely to strip some during the process and will need to replace them. M3-10mm for motor, M3-16mm for general case assembly (if you have XL tower upgrade, you'll need M3-20mm's instead). Having spare M3 flat nuts is also useful, IME. Home Depot has em, among other sources. If you don't have metric cap screw (hex) bits/drivers already, get a set. Home Depot does NOT have these, at least not stores by me. I ordered mine from Amazon (they also sell M3 cap screws by the box).

  4. Finally, don't be afraid to use glue to keep the screws in the top & bottom plate (where the side plates screw in for attachment) into those little slots in the wood, otherwise they will fall into the printer (and no, you likely won't be able to "shake" them out again, IME, they get trapped in all the wires stuffed in the gap between motors).

If anyone else has other tips for these mods, might be nice to call out and list them as well to aid folks considering these mods.
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Last edited by jwiede on 2014-Apr-Thu-14-Apr, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Some Printr Noob » 2014-Apr-Thu-14-Apr

I got a cheap bar clamp from hobbyking.com with my digital calipers. I can flip them out so they push objects apart. So much easier to seperate and assemble the base of the printrbot simple now.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Some Printr Noob » 2014-Apr-Thu-22-Apr

The belt keeps wanting to slip off the bearings and pulley on the X axis. I'm about to pull my hair out trying to find out why. I also had to put a spacer behind the bearing on the 300mm no sag Y mod so that the bearing would actually line up with the belt. Going to continue tweaking by hair-drying the belt ends and figuring out a way to space the spacers.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby thawkins » 2014-Apr-Thu-23-Apr

Some Printr Noob wrote:The belt keeps wanting to slip off the bearings and pulley on the X axis. I'm about to pull my hair out trying to find out why. I also had to put a spacer behind the bearing on the 300mm no sag Y mod so that the bearing would actually line up with the belt. Going to continue tweaking by hair-drying the belt ends and figuring out a way to space the spacers.


I discovered that even very small mis calibrations in the printing of the two side arms would cause that to happen, with the belt being anchored too far back. I used two small brackets screwed down over the bed rising bolt to push the belt back until it lined up perfectly and did not walk.

Alternatively you could try reprinting the arms with a tiny amount of y scale to move the anchor point, closer or further away.

I will send a photo later this evening (my time) to show my hack with the brackets.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Jon Lawrence » 2014-Apr-Fri-05-Apr

Some Printr Noob wrote:The belt keeps wanting to slip off the bearings and pulley on the X axis. I'm about to pull my hair out trying to find out why. I also had to put a spacer behind the bearing on the 300mm no sag Y mod so that the bearing would actually line up with the belt. Going to continue tweaking by hair-drying the belt ends and figuring out a way to space the spacers.

Any chance you can post a picture of the belt alignment taken from one belt end to the other, so we can see how everything is lining up?

Couple questions:
- How tight is the belt?
- How does it track when moving the carriage by hand?
- Any chance the motor plate is warped due to excessive heat?
- If you put a straight edge across the bearing faces (flat faces where the screw goes thru) are the bearings in a straight line?

The belt shouldn't be able to actually come off the bearings because the pulley flanges keep in on track. Now the belt may be able to try to wedge itself up against the pulley flange and cause significant drag on the assembly and if the belt is loose, than it will tend to ride up the pulley flange (and off the bearing). If the belt is tight the flange should keep in on track.

Pictures will help to check the alignment, and like thawkins said if the ends are off than that adds to the possible issues.

We will get you there, don't worry.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby spitfirehauser » 2014-Apr-Fri-09-Apr

IMG_0625.JPG
IMG_0623.JPG
I did get the rest of the printer back together and started working on calibration. I did have to grind the small amounts where the stepper motor U mounts but other then that my prints were good. see attached pictures, i will upload to thingiverse once i take pictures of the Simple with the print bed on. Thanks all this is now Extra Awesome. I guess i have to change my signature to something different them Stock simple.......
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Some Printr Noob » 2014-Apr-Fri-15-Apr

Jon Lawrence wrote:
Some Printr Noob wrote:The belt keeps wanting to slip off the bearings and pulley on the X axis. I'm about to pull my hair out trying to find out why. I also had to put a spacer behind the bearing on the 300mm no sag Y mod so that the bearing would actually line up with the belt. Going to continue tweaking by hair-drying the belt ends and figuring out a way to space the spacers.

Any chance you can post a picture of the belt alignment taken from one belt end to the other, so we can see how everything is lining up?

Couple questions:
- How tight is the belt?
- How does it track when moving the carriage by hand?
- Any chance the motor plate is warped due to excessive heat?
- If you put a straight edge across the bearing faces (flat faces where the screw goes thru) are the bearings in a straight line?

The belt shouldn't be able to actually come off the bearings because the pulley flanges keep in on track. Now the belt may be able to try to wedge itself up against the pulley flange and cause significant drag on the assembly and if the belt is loose, than it will tend to ride up the pulley flange (and off the bearing). If the belt is tight the flange should keep in on track.

Pictures will help to check the alignment, and like thawkins said if the ends are off than that adds to the possible issues.

We will get you there, don't worry.


Currently can only answer a couple of the questions, pics will come later today.
The belt wants to ride off the bearings. It does hit the pulley flanges, but my previous belts have worn out significantly because of it. My old motor plate was warped since the motor didn't fit into the slot. I got a friend to print me one in ABS, and am using some rubber washers to space the motor.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby dmaxx67 » 2014-Apr-Fri-19-Apr

Has anyone printed the x axis later gen bed supports After doing the 1st gen x and y axus belt mods. I have them both installed a stock simple and lack about 2mm of being able to print the bed carriages. Am I missing something completely obvious?
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Jon Lawrence » 2014-Apr-Fri-20-Apr

dmaxx67 wrote:Has anyone printed the x axis later gen bed supports After doing the 1st gen x and y axus belt mods. I have them both installed a stock simple and lack about 2mm of being able to print the bed carriages. Am I missing something completely obvious?

Use the "oriented" version and print without brim, raft, skirt, etc. Just manually extrude some filament right before the print starts to get it going.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Jon Lawrence » 2014-Apr-Fri-20-Apr

Some Printr Noob wrote:Currently can only answer a couple of the questions, pics will come later today.
The belt wants to ride off the bearings. It does hit the pulley flanges, but my previous belts have worn out significantly because of it. My old motor plate was warped since the motor didn't fit into the slot. I got a friend to print me one in ABS, and am using some rubber washers to space the motor.

Pictures will help quite a bit. The "rubber washers to space the motor." Are they rigid and all exactly the same thickness?
Possible issues:
1. The motor pulley may be out of alignment if they are not all the same thickness.
2. The motor may flex and pull itself out of alignment while printing if the washers are soft and "squishy."
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby sarahspins » 2014-Apr-Fri-23-Apr

Jon Lawrence wrote: print without brim, raft, skirt, etc. Just manually extrude some filament right before the print starts to get it going.


This is key. Also shifting the STL towards your "home" position instead of letting the software "center" it on your plate may help. Make sure you test your x and y axis travel before you start printing to make sure that you have full use of the 100x100mm bed - some simple users with the stock bed have reported that the screw for the x-axis home switch limits the x-axis to less than 100mm, and modifications to that screw have had to be made to get those last few mm back. I didn't find this to be the case for me, but I have seen several posts about it. I printed my "orientated" x-axis ends before I had the y-axis GT2 parts installed on my simple and everything came out perfectly.. but I did have to print one of them twice due to a filament problem towards the end of the print (was not a fault of the printer at all, but of my filament feeding method - after that happened I printed myself some parts to build a stand with bearings at the axis of the spool rather than letting the spool edges 'roll' on bearings, and I've had no more filament problems).
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Some Printr Noob » 2014-Apr-Sat-02-Apr

Well, one side of the belt end rolls on the bearings just fine. I've rigged up my heated bed, and 60c seems alright(although it takes ages to heat up; going to assume that the thickness of the wire on the old PSU connector[picked up a 12V 18A Dell laptop brick] isn't enough to deliver the juice this little guy needs). I've recalibrated my printer, and am attempting to print replacement pieces as I had a little bit too much fun with the hair dryer and some parts of the belt ends warped. So far, the larger of the belt ends is halfway done with no problems. My 300MM no sag Y axis system has been working nicely, though.

1. The motor pulley may be out of alignment if they are not all the same thickness.
They are pretty close in thickness. I had to manually cut them as they were attached to metal washers, which didn't allow me to screw into the motor since there was so much spacing. Each one is about 1mm.
2. The motor may flex and pull itself out of alignment while printing if the washers are soft and "squishy."
I think they're made of neoprene. They are flexible, but not very squishy.

I'll re-print some parts that got warped, and then take pictures if I'm having the same problems again.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Jon Lawrence » 2014-Apr-Sat-20-Apr

Some Printr Noob wrote:Well, one side of the belt end rolls on the bearings just fine. I've rigged up my heated bed, and 60c seems alright(although it takes ages to heat up; going to assume that the thickness of the wire on the old PSU connector[picked up a 12V 18A Dell laptop brick] isn't enough to deliver the juice this little guy needs). I've recalibrated my printer, and am attempting to print replacement pieces as I had a little bit too much fun with the hair dryer and some parts of the belt ends warped. So far, the larger of the belt ends is halfway done with no problems. My 300MM no sag Y axis system has been working nicely, though.

1. The motor pulley may be out of alignment if they are not all the same thickness.
They are pretty close in thickness. I had to manually cut them as they were attached to metal washers, which didn't allow me to screw into the motor since there was so much spacing. Each one is about 1mm.
2. The motor may flex and pull itself out of alignment while printing if the washers are soft and "squishy."
I think they're made of neoprene. They are flexible, but not very squishy.

I'll re-print some parts that got warped, and then take pictures if I'm having the same problems again.


If you get tired of the hair drying the belt ends, this little wedge may help: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:275874

Keep us posted.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby thawkins » 2014-Apr-Sun-01-Apr

Jon Lawrence wrote:
Some Printr Noob wrote:Well, one side of the belt end rolls on the bearings just fine. I've rigged up my heated bed, and 60c seems alright(although it takes ages to heat up; going to assume that the thickness of the wire on the old PSU connector[picked up a 12V 18A Dell laptop brick] isn't enough to deliver the juice this little guy needs). I've recalibrated my printer, and am attempting to print replacement pieces as I had a little bit too much fun with the hair dryer and some parts of the belt ends warped. So far, the larger of the belt ends is halfway done with no problems. My 300MM no sag Y axis system has been working nicely, though.

1. The motor pulley may be out of alignment if they are not all the same thickness.
They are pretty close in thickness. I had to manually cut them as they were attached to metal washers, which didn't allow me to screw into the motor since there was so much spacing. Each one is about 1mm.
2. The motor may flex and pull itself out of alignment while printing if the washers are soft and "squishy."
I think they're made of neoprene. They are flexible, but not very squishy.

I'll re-print some parts that got warped, and then take pictures if I'm having the same problems again.


If you get tired of the hair drying the belt ends, this little wedge may help: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:275874

Keep us posted.



I just folded it over and put a ziptie around it, only takes a few seconds.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby jwiede » 2014-Apr-Sun-14-Apr

Jon Lawrence wrote:If you get tired of the hair drying the belt ends, this little wedge may help: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:275874


Yep, I swear by those wedges (and the regular tension blocks) now. Works well and a lot easier than any of the other crimping/heatshrinking/etc. options, IME.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Some Printr Noob » 2014-Apr-Sun-15-Apr

Yeah, I've been using the wedges. They fit like a charm, except for the one on the 300MM y axis where the extruder area is. I have to mount the belt normally in that little slot.

So far the only fix I've found is to have a spacer to get the bearings out further. I split a paperclip in half and wedged it behind the bearings, to get an extra 1mm of spacing or so. Everything works relatively smoothly now, but I might try modifying the motor block with netfabb/meshlab to get an extra mm of spacing on the bearings.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby ccbdav » 2014-Apr-Mon-21-Apr

Finished the y-axis GT2 mod last weekend, and I couldn't be happier with the results! Excellent and relatively easy upgrade. Thank you, Jon and everyone else participating in this thread.

After finals I hope to do a tear-down and install the x-axis GT2 mod, but I have a quick question regarding the latest parts list, specifically for a Maker's 2014 (with XL upgrade if that's at all relevant). From what I can glean, one will need two (2) bearing caps, two (2) tension blocks, one (1) motor mount, and...what exactly? I have printed one XBeltEndGT2RevC.stl and one XBeltEndGT2Mirror.stl. Is this correct, or should I attempt to mirror the RevC part?

It looks like the original mirror will suffice as, from what I ascertain, it is only the right side end cap that was causing issue but I'd like to be sure before I begin the tear-down.

Thank you again.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Some Printr Noob » 2014-Apr-Mon-21-Apr

ccbdav wrote:Finished the y-axis GT2 mod last weekend, and I couldn't be happier with the results! Excellent and relatively easy upgrade. Thank you, Jon and everyone else participating in this thread.

After finals I hope to do a tear-down and install the x-axis GT2 mod, but I have a quick question regarding the latest parts list, specifically for a Maker's 2014 (with XL upgrade if that's at all relevant). From what I can glean, one will need two (2) bearing caps, two (2) tension blocks, one (1) motor mount, and...what exactly? I have printed one XBeltEndGT2RevC.stl and one XBeltEndGT2Mirror.stl. Is this correct, or should I attempt to mirror the RevC part?

It looks like the original mirror will suffice as, from what I ascertain, it is only the right side end cap that was causing issue but I'd like to be sure before I begin the tear-down.

Thank you again.


That seems about right. For the piece that goes on the right side, you might want to print out the extended one as I had problems with the fan on the Y mount hitting it.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby ccbdav » 2014-Apr-Mon-22-Apr

Some Printr Noob wrote:
ccbdav wrote:Finished the y-axis GT2 mod last weekend, and I couldn't be happier with the results! Excellent and relatively easy upgrade. Thank you, Jon and everyone else participating in this thread.

After finals I hope to do a tear-down and install the x-axis GT2 mod, but I have a quick question regarding the latest parts list, specifically for a Maker's 2014 (with XL upgrade if that's at all relevant). From what I can glean, one will need two (2) bearing caps, two (2) tension blocks, one (1) motor mount, and...what exactly? I have printed one XBeltEndGT2RevC.stl and one XBeltEndGT2Mirror.stl. Is this correct, or should I attempt to mirror the RevC part?

It looks like the original mirror will suffice as, from what I ascertain, it is only the right side end cap that was causing issue but I'd like to be sure before I begin the tear-down.

Thank you again.


That seems about right. For the piece that goes on the right side, you might want to print out the extended one as I had problems with the fan on the Y mount hitting it.


Thanks for the reply---I have read this thread many times and I know you have been testing this for a while.

"Extended one" being the RevC version?
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Some Printr Noob » 2014-Apr-Tue-02-Apr

ccbdav wrote:
Some Printr Noob wrote:
ccbdav wrote:Finished the y-axis GT2 mod last weekend, and I couldn't be happier with the results! Excellent and relatively easy upgrade. Thank you, Jon and everyone else participating in this thread.

After finals I hope to do a tear-down and install the x-axis GT2 mod, but I have a quick question regarding the latest parts list, specifically for a Maker's 2014 (with XL upgrade if that's at all relevant). From what I can glean, one will need two (2) bearing caps, two (2) tension blocks, one (1) motor mount, and...what exactly? I have printed one XBeltEndGT2RevC.stl and one XBeltEndGT2Mirror.stl. Is this correct, or should I attempt to mirror the RevC part?

It looks like the original mirror will suffice as, from what I ascertain, it is only the right side end cap that was causing issue but I'd like to be sure before I begin the tear-down.

Thank you again.


That seems about right. For the piece that goes on the right side, you might want to print out the extended one as I had problems with the fan on the Y mount hitting it.


Thanks for the reply---I have read this thread many times and I know you have been testing this for a while.

"Extended one" being the RevC version?


If I remember correctly, that should be the one.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Jon Lawrence » 2014-Apr-Tue-11-Apr

Some Printr Noob wrote:
ccbdav wrote:"Extended one" being the RevC version?

If I remember correctly, that should be the one.


Yes, the extend right side to clear the 2014 fan is: XBeltEndGT2RevC.stl
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby ccbdav » 2014-Apr-Tue-17-Apr

Thank you both for the info.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Zyzic » 2014-Apr-Mon-09-Apr

Just assembled the Simple over the weekend (2014 version). Very excited about doing this GT2 mod. Thanks to everybody (especially Jon) who has contributed to this thread with fantastic info.

One thing I didn't see mentioned was where to source the non-printed parts from. Jon's design drawings for the X & Y upgrades give McMaster part numbers for the screws, but not for the bearings, pulleys, or belts. I saw a GT2 kit in Printrbot's store, but I was wondering if I could source all of these from McMaster.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Jon Lawrence » 2014-Apr-Mon-09-Apr

Zyzic wrote:Just assembled the Simple over the weekend (2014 version). Very excited about doing this GT2 mod. Thanks to everybody (especially Jon) who has contributed to this thread with fantastic info.

One thing I didn't see mentioned was where to source the non-printed parts from. Jon's design drawings for the X & Y upgrades give McMaster part numbers for the screws, but not for the bearings, pulleys, or belts. I saw a GT2 kit in Printrbot's store, but I was wondering if I could source all of these from McMaster.

McMaster does not carry the GT2 belts and pulleys, they do have the 608 bearings (5972K501) but I feel the pricing is way too high so I didn't list them as a supplier.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Zyzic » 2014-Apr-Mon-09-Apr

Jon Lawrence wrote:
Zyzic wrote:Just assembled the Simple over the weekend (2014 version). Very excited about doing this GT2 mod. Thanks to everybody (especially Jon) who has contributed to this thread with fantastic info.

One thing I didn't see mentioned was where to source the non-printed parts from. Jon's design drawings for the X & Y upgrades give McMaster part numbers for the screws, but not for the bearings, pulleys, or belts. I saw a GT2 kit in Printrbot's store, but I was wondering if I could source all of these from McMaster.

McMaster does not carry the GT2 belts and pulleys, they do have the 608 bearings (5972K501) but I feel the pricing is way too high so I didn't list them as a supplier.


Where do you typically get your 608 bearings from? Currently McMaster shows $4.53 EA.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Jon Lawrence » 2014-Apr-Mon-11-Apr

Zyzic wrote:Where do you typically get your 608 bearings from? Currently McMaster shows $4.53 EA.

Honestly, I get mine Ebay style from china. Here is another source if you don't care for the slow boat:
http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/608ZZ10
They are a very common skate bearing, so there are thousands of sources for these all over the world.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Palerob » 2014-Apr-Mon-18-Apr

Zyzic wrote:
Jon Lawrence wrote:
Zyzic wrote:Just assembled the Simple over the weekend (2014 version). Very excited about doing this GT2 mod. Thanks to everybody (especially Jon) who has contributed to this thread with fantastic info.

One thing I didn't see mentioned was where to source the non-printed parts from. Jon's design drawings for the X & Y upgrades give McMaster part numbers for the screws, but not for the bearings, pulleys, or belts. I saw a GT2 kit in Printrbot's store, but I was wondering if I could source all of these from McMaster.

McMaster does not carry the GT2 belts and pulleys, they do have the 608 bearings (5972K501) but I feel the pricing is way too high so I didn't list them as a supplier.


Where do you typically get your 608 bearings from? Currently McMaster shows $4.53 EA.



I got mine from Fastenal, I am not sure of the price I paid because of a corp discount I get. But when I looked online it was $0.93 each, http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/0474510. The website can even tell you if they have some in stock at a location near you.

Thanks
Rob
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A Simple is not just a tool, it is an addiction. ;)
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2014 Simple W/ XL+Tower Upgrade
MODS: Jon's GT2 X and Y Belt mods, soon to have the Y extender and X Depth extender.

Also: 2014 Black Metal Simple (Technically the wife's but you know...)
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby ccbdav » 2014-Apr-Wed-23-Apr

What sort of rods are needed to make http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:257841 work on the XL bed?

EDIT: I have no access to solid metal cutting tools.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Jon Lawrence » 2014-Apr-Thu-10-Apr

ccbdav wrote:What sort of rods are needed to make http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:257841 work on the XL bed?

EDIT: I have no access to solid metal cutting tools.

I do not have the XL bed and cannot find CAD data from Printrbot. To figure it out, measure the distance between the bed leveling hole centers, than add 87mm.

HOLECENTERS.PNG
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby pvyParts » 2014-Apr-Fri-06-Apr

Jon Lawrence wrote:
ccbdav wrote:What sort of rods are needed to make http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:257841 work on the XL bed?

EDIT: I have no access to solid metal cutting tools.

I do not have the XL bed and cannot find CAD data from Printrbot. To figure it out, measure the distance between the bed leveling hole centers, than add 87mm.



259mm by my measurements between the hole centers on the XL wooden bed
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby stupendousman » 2014-Apr-Sat-15-Apr

Wow. Is there a link someplace to download those side support legs? I've been looking for something EXACTLY like that!
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby evanalmighty » 2014-Apr-Sat-16-Apr

Those legs are part of this mod here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:215294
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby stupendousman » 2014-Apr-Sat-17-Apr

evanalmighty wrote:Those legs are part of this mod here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:215294


THANKS!!!!!
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby Munson » 2014-Apr-Sun-07-Apr

The supports in the back of the printr?
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby jwiede » 2014-Apr-Sun-13-Apr

evanalmighty wrote:Those legs are part of this mod here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:215294

Plus they look cool while printing (they print vertically), they're an interesting example of what can be done despite overhang limits.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby spitfirehauser » 2014-Apr-Tue-10-Apr

Yes, they work VERY well and work in the existing hole. I have no problems with stability and have now completed both your X and Y upgrade.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby ccbdav » 2014-May-Fri-20-May

Finally got around to installing the x-axis mod...wow!

Thanks again for this great modification.
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Re: Jon Lawerence's X & Y GT2 belt mod

Postby DainBramage » 2014-Dec-Fri-16-Dec

I know I'm a little late to this party, but I just finished this same/similar modification. I hadn't seen this post until after I completed it, so I did mine a little differently.

On my Y axis, I didn't have the physical room to fit 8x22x7 bearings on either side of the pulley I had and still fit a gt2 belt through, so I found 688hZZ bearings with dimensions of 8x16x5. I could have used a pair of them together to make a 10mm bearing surface, but 5mm works as long as you are careful in aligning the anchors.

I then used some similar wood (could have used the part I took out that the X motor mounts to but I couldn't find it) and glued it to the top of the lower X bed where the belt will anchor. I made sure that the thickness of the added wood would keep the belt perfectly level, compensating for the 18mm bearings. Then I cut the Groove longer and moved where the leveling bolts attach a bit forward and attached the I belt using small spring clamps so that I could print the new belt anchors and adjuster.

The main thing to remember is that whatever size bearings you use, the belt must remain perfectly level on either side of the pulleys so that the tension is consistent throughout the range of motion. (it's like pulling a car with a rope at an angle rather than straight. It wastes torque, reduces the size of your print near the ends, and introduces backlash in the center of your print area.

Thanks for this post and I hope my suggestions help others who may be getting ready to make this same upgrade to their printrbot. Definitely worth it. Much better precision with the GT2 implemented correctly!
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